ok, thanks. Now that you say it, I could probably have guessed that it's Kupplung.
Anyway, it works, but it stresses my plastic pedals extremely when I do that. It's an old DFP, the pedals have been repaired multiple times by me. Isn't there an option to automize that lift, or to disable that feature completely, like it was before ? If not I probably better use an older version.
Hi, I've been absent for some time and noticed that I can now only drive for about 10 laps until I'm unable to shift. This KPL thing is the reason, the more the bar reds, the less I can shift. So it probably has something to do with the clutch ??? What is it and how can I prevent that it 'overheats' (setting ? driving style ??) thanks ...
If I was a girl who just wants to race I would just hide the generally irrelevant information of my sex. That is a really easy task on a game like this, and no one will bother me then. If I would instead choose to give clear hints then I cannot be astonished by the outcome, since this kind of childish behaviour you describe is known all over the internet.
You obviously did give hints, and not enough with that. You go over to the forum saying:
ok, so now everyone knows it. You even have some more information you want everybody to know.
It could just be me, but my guess is, you are looking for some attention rather than being harrassed.
what does the wr have to do with the ai's limit
The ai will certainly not beat the wr flailing the steering wheel around like that, but 36,72 is only half a second away (maybe it can even go a little faster). Now add the good start, the perfect consistency and the constant blocking of the race line. That should be enough to give most oval drivers a good challenge.
for me, this is already hard stuff. I am slightly faster, but the ai starts very fast and is not easy to overtake.
However, I drove my first laps ever on the oval, so nevermind.
Attached is the replay of the fastest lap and the setup. This should be very close to the limit the ai can do on the oval.
I tried now for 15 minutes and got my AI to 37,12 on the oval (see attached replay). Of course you have to tweak the setup for his epileptic driving style.
If you put a little more afford in it as I did I'm sure you will get the AI to 36,xx so you can properly train with it.
Here are some .knw files for the popular as3/gtr combination for 11 or 12 ai's with fzr. The ai's drive 1:45-1:48 which is quite challenging if you start from last place. Try it and you'll see what I mean. I have also included my as3 setup, which the ai's used.
The downside is, as vain said, that the ai's try to go faster each lap and won't understand, when the limit is reached. Additionally they ruin their tyres very quickly so it works only for short races (10 laps should go).
1) it might look like ripping the wheel rapidly to full lock in a replay, but actually it works just fine when turning the wheel smoothly and slowly. My dfp doesnt make any noise.
2) no need because the car will understeer and slip over the front tyres even with low speed.
3) see 2) try to do it with half throttle or less so the car is easier to control.
ok, sorry, I was mistaken because of the unprecise translation :P In the german version the 3 ranks for the lessons are : semi professional (Halbprofi), pro (Profi), ace (As). In the english version the ranks are ok, quick and pro, so I thought you were talking of the 2nd rank.
I also cannot get the pro (ace) rank, even with handbrake.
I noticed that the mouseover info in the online stats now also shows the HL-Time. For the f08, however, that doesn't seem to work (on those I checked including myself). Can anyone cofirm this ?
In the fzr you don't need to lift the throttle during start, just correct a bit with the wheel if the car starts to spin.
You also will have your rear tyres almost perfectly warmed up for t1.
tristancliffe didn't say that karts cannot draft, he said it has no big effect. That is because the overall top speed of karts is low and probably because kart tracks usually don't have very long straights so the result is not really worth it.
If you had to produce the energy of the kart with your feet, then it would have a huge effect of course Thats what I wanted to say, both cases are not really comparable.
the answer to your question is already given in the text you quoted. On a bicycle the draft is not used to gain speed (as tristancliffe explained) but for reducing the energy needed to maintain a given speed.
If you ever drove with a bicycle (and i'm sure you did) then you will have felt air resistance which you have to work against. Someone who is following you closely will have less air resistance hence he needs less energy to go your speed and will probably be less tired after arrival.
Professional bicycle teams who drive tour de france usually consist of one top driver and 5 or 6 "helpers", who are just there to lower the air resistance for their top driver letting him draft as long as they can. They are basically sacrificed in the process because they have used up all their energy long before the race ends.
I don't know if I have the same training section as you, but I have 90 lessons into it. Completing it in 30 mins means you can do 3 lessons per minute which is 20 seconds per lesson. Congratulations to that but for normal, stupid people like me I would rather calculate with 2 hours or more considering you might fail the one or other lesson because you don't drive all the cars every day.
I myself did some of the lessons but since you have to "unlock" them with the previous lessons I have stopped at the lx4 because I don't intend to ever race it. Also the completed lessons tought me nothing except for the overtaking lessons. That is because I went out and hotlapped the appropiate car until I was able to beat the ai.
My suggestion: One overtaking lesson per car/track combo (not in forced order), each one of these lessons will unlock just the car/track combo you have completed for online play (not single player). Then you have at least a minimal learning effect and not have to waste your time with tons of useless slalom lessons.
by just logically thinking this over, if you pick a slower car for bumpdrafting, this car will be in front when you arrive at the twisty section and will then slow you down greatly while the faster car you want to catch up to will just drive away.
I also cannot imagine you can use this for overtaking because you first have to pass the car you are bumping and then go one on one with the faster car. That will never work (except oval maybe).
Also you are falsly asuming that others have to inform you that they don't want to get raped from behind. It's the other way round, if you wanna bump someone you are to make sure that the other driver is informed before you do that (just as you cannot just bump any girl in RL from behind without asking).
Really, by just thinking over it, I would deny the big benefit of bumpdrafting on any track but the oval. On the oval everyone is equally fast and expects bumpdrafting as it seems, that is ok then. Please show me a replay where you beat a better driver because of bumpdrafting on a regular track (no oval).
yes, that is exactly what I was thinking about that whole bumpdrafting thing. I didn't even know it and now that I do, how should I know if someone is bumpdrafting me or just too stupid to drive.
If that was common practice I would just bumpdraft cars before they corner (which certainly wins me a position) and then excuse myself: "Hey, I was just bumpdrafting, your fault if you cannot handle it"
I would consider it an offense if someone drives into my rear, no matter what excuses he has thereafter.
I'm trying the f08 at the moment and want to make a setup for longer distances. I have the problem that the front tyres get too hot on the insides. I'm already at +0,6° camber or something like that but finding it really hard to drive like that. I'm at blackwood but have that problem on all tracks I have tried.
Is there any other way to prevent the inner tyres from getting too hot or is it normal to drive the f08 with that much positive camber ?