Yeah, but my point is that this shouldn't be a problem at all.
The traction of the "stable" front tires should overwelm that of the rear tires which are in traction loss.
The diference between traction and traction loss is too little. This is why people who "slide" around corners in LFS are able to keep up with those who keep the car in alignement. In real life, if you are getting your backend out at all around corners, you'll be all but left in the dust.

Another problem I have seen.
In real life:
If you get into a rear-wheel-drive car and hold the break and give the car gas (clutch work is involved) the front tires will grip as long as you want, while the back tires will slip. This is a very common practice for drag racers who want to warm up their rear tires before a race. And even with drag car with large rear tires and smaller front tires, because the rear were quickly put into traction loss, the smaller fronts can keep traction and not slide -- this of course is only to a point, eventually the rear tires (if large enough or with soft enough compound) will over power the front tires' grip.

In LFS:
I use pedals with the break and gas pedals being on separate axis. I have tried to do burnouts on RWD (I'm pretty sure I used one of the GTR RWD cars -- I can't remember, and I am not home to check) cars by holding the break, holding the clutch (not necessary), giving gas, then releasing the clutch. The result is the rear tires squealing and the front tires (if the break is pressed enough) sliding while locked up. So I messed around with it a bit trying to give my front tires better traction -- slowly letting on the break, get them right to traction loss without going over; but to no avail. I went into the setup and even put R4s on the rear, and R2s on the front. But still the front tires just slide.
I find this all very odd, because the rear tires with complete traction loss (only slipping friction) have more traction than the front tires with no traction loss -- and these cars, in general, should be front heavy, so the front tires should have more traction than the rear innately.

Quote from XCNuse :

dunno.. i dont want to/ see no idea for it.. all you have to do is unpack the files..

Yeah, for most people this isn't needed. I just saw quite a few people have issues with their compression program. So I came up a solution. There are some people in the world that are lucky they know how to turn on their computer and surf the web; but still want to play games -- though windows XP has made it much easier access.

I'm a pretty new member and I was very surprised when I get LFS for the first time that there wasn't an installer.
I'm also a programmer, so I threw together an installer. I also have the skin viewer packaged with it.
In this installer, it lets Windows know that the program actually exists. It places links in your start menu and on your desktop (optional). The program now shows up in add/remove programs. You can choose where to install it.
The file is smaller than the zip from the LFS site because it uses a newer/better compression scheme.

The installer .EXEs are being hosted by another LFS member (ORION -- thanks!). Here are the links (they are both the same file, just different servers):
http://www.zt-racing.com/downl ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe
http://zt.racenetwork.de/zt-fi ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe

Hope some people can use it!

This is my setup, run at highest settings plus 2x FSAA at 60-80FPS:
ASUS Mobo socket A
AMD 2500+ barton (over clocked to 2.18Ghz)
X800 Pro (over clocked to 447Mhz core, 565Mhz mem)
1.5GB RAM

you could buy this setup plus hard/optical drives, and case/PSU for $800 probably if you bought it all off ebay.

The installer .EXEs are being hosted by another LFS member (ORION -- thanks!). Here are the links (they are both the same file, just different servers):
http://www.zt-racing.com/downl ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe
http://zt.racenetwork.de/zt-fi ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe

This will install LFS like a real program. It also has the skin viewer packaged with it.

The installer .EXEs are being hosted by another LFS member (ORION -- thanks!). Here are the links (they are both the same file, just different servers):
http://www.zt-racing.com/downl ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe
http://zt.racenetwork.de/zt-fi ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.exe

This will install LFS like a real program. It also has the skin viewer packaged with it.

I didn't think the game was that great.
Graphics could have been better, but they weren't aweful.

I much more fond of sims

nice, I'm going to try that with my buddies.

Quote from Cue-Ball :

Although I'll fully admit I don't know as much about tire models as some of the guys who frequently discuss it, I do know how a car reacts in real life and I'm able to compare that to how a car reacts in LFS. In my opinion the main physics flaw has to do with lateral grip, but it's not as simple as just saying it's too low. In my street car if I get the tail out then let off the gas the rear end snaps back into line. Even on wet pavement and high treadwear street tires the rear end will 'snap' back rather quickly. I should think that this would be even more pronounced in a race car on dry pavement with sticky tires. However; LFS does not exhibit this behavior. The curious thing is that if you drive on the skidpad the tires behave as they should. So lateral grip seems to be fine in some instances (on the skidpad), but for some reason lateral grip seems very, very low in others (when "drifting"). The slick cars exhibit the same behavior with the difference being that it takes a lot more pushing to get the tires loose in the first place. But once you get them loose, even the slicks won't snap back into line as they should.

I think this is very close. Driving a small "sport truck" has shown me that getting the back end out isn't too dangerous as long as you know when to lift off the throttle; as soon as you do so, the back end uncomfortable comes back into alignment. Drifters at the tracks I've seen always get "drifting tires" which are very hard compound tires. This does two things, makes it much easier to loose grip, and second it make the tires wear much slower. If drifters at the track has as little traction as the slicks in LFS they wouldn't need drifting tires.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Well, we just said how it would work: with key frames. They would be a "snapshot" of the current world state with every variable saved. Actually "rewinding" isn't possible, but jumping back to these key frames and playing back from there surely is. I don't even have to know how Scawen's code looks to be sure that this would work.

Even if the program only thought about the info between each keyframe as separate files, then opened them as it got to each keyframe.

Quote from Vain :

When I saw LFS ships in a simple .zip I said "I love these guys!" and was happy that noone tries to make unnecessary registry-entries to windows. I just wanted to say that there are people who are exceptionally happy with the .zip-file.

Vain

There are also plenty of people having major issues with the .zip files because of their zip apps.
You can try downloading the .zip file off LFS.net again make sure you get the full copy, it should be about 130MB.
Or if you want a real installer, another LFS member has allowed me to host my installer on his site. Of course it does make unnecessary registry entries which take up a total of 50 bytes of your precious hard drive, but here's the link:
It is a .zip right now, just extract it and run the .exe. I'll leave the link to the .exe tomorrow, the guy hosting needs to unzip and re-upload the file, so it will take a bit.
Download: http://www.zt-racing.com/downl ... ed_S2-ALPHA-Q_Install.zip

I have an x800 Pro and have run most of the old Cat5 drivers had have never had a problem. I am now using the Cat 6.1 and I still am getting 90+fps with all settings all the way up. I just wish this game could push my video card a bit more.
My stats:
AMD 2500+ Barton (OC to 2.18Ghz -- 3200+ speeds)
1.5GB DDR
x800 Pro (OC to 447Mhz core and 565Mhz mem)

Quote from Bigboosta :

Hi, noob here. Am I alone in finding it easier to drift (XR GT/ XR Turbo) with an open diff? Just seems easier to initiate sideways movement, and easier to hold. I keep trying with a clutch pack LSD with 25% lock up (Cos this is what my car in real life has) but it just seems to make me spin easier. Any thoughts appreciated.... Ollie

Are you using wheel and pedals? Or mouse/keyboard?
I know when I used my mouse to play I could only use vicous or open diff (both are very similar) to drive at all.

Open diff will seem much easier to control because it is a balance setup (the inside tire does the pushing while the outside tire does the gripping). And while open diff drifting is possible and easier, to really get as sideways as possible, and stay that way as long as possible a low % LSD or locking diff is the only way to go.
I like running an LSD with 10-30% power and 50-60% coast. This makes it so when I step on the gas both tires in the rear spin easily and will kickout. But when I want my backend to line back up, the 50-60% allows at least one of the tires to get full traction.
In real life (which LSF is not), most drifters run the equivilant of 30-40% power, 40-50% coast. But a lot of that has to do with the fact that they will likely be driving the car home at the end of the day. Professional drifters will likely run locking diffs, if they are confident enough; or they run the equivilant of a low % power and coast LSD to minimize understeer (...while the backend is not out).

All this to say, open diff drifting is possbile, and may seem easier, but it takes a lot less talent, and is very noticable when being watched. You also cannot hold drifts as long around loose corners.
If you want to get into LSDs, start by running it at 80% power and coast. Then slowly move the power percentage down 5-10% at a time until you get used to it. Try to get down to 20-30% for power and also by that time you should try lower the coast percentage to allow for easier shiftlocks or high-rev power releases (which in real life you have to work hard to drift with either technique using an open diff).

I am brand new to LSF, hence the 5 posts. 90% of games on the market with "installers" are actually just compressed files the same as LFS. So why do they use an installer instead of just having a .zip file for their game? Why when you pop in a CD for a new game you buy does it launch an installer instead of a local unzip program?
Answer, because it is tacky.
When I first downloaded LFS, I was extremely scared that it was just a .zip file. Figuring that it was a very low budget game some kid made (I was obviously proved dead wrong the first time I went around a track).
But nonetheless; I don't care if they download my file, I'm just trying to help. I still don't get why LFS hasn't released an .exe. It took me maybe 10 minutes to put this one together, and instantly the program looks better from the getgo.

There hasn't been an installer provided. But I have created one. There's no way for me to post it to the forums here. But if anyone needs it, they can download it off my site (45KBps). Just leave me a message here/or private chat in the LFS Mailbox (in the LFS desktop). I don't have much bandwidth on my cable modem, so I don't want to give it out to too many people, but ask me and I'll likely let you download it.

It has an actual installer UI.
It has both the game and the quick skin viewer.
It has a real uninstaller.
It writes the correct registries so Windows knows it exists.
It shows up in "add/remove programs".
It takes all the guesswork out of extracting a .zip file.
It creates desktop and/or start menu shotcuts (optional).
It is a "real" installer!
With all this, it is also 16MB smaller than the .zip file provided from the LFS site.

There hasn't been an installer provided. But I have created one. There's no way for me to post it to the forums here. But if anyone needs it, they can download it off my site (45KBps). Just leave me a message here/or private chat in the LFS Mailbox (in the LFS desktop). I don't have much bandwidth on my cable modem, so I don't want to give it out to too many people, but ask me and I'll likely let you download it.

It has an actual installer UI.
It has both the game and the quick skin viewer.
It has a real uninstaller.
It writes the correct registries so Windows knows it exists.
It shows up in "add/remove programs".
It takes all the guesswork out of extracting a .zip file.
It creates desktop and/or start menu shotcuts (optional).
It is a "real" installer!
With all this, it is also 16MB smaller than the .zip file provided from the LFS site.