The A048 to me is a better tire than the r888 or even Potenza RE55s tires. Dont get me wrong they are all great tires and they all have their own characteristics, from experience the r888 are a soft semi slick tire, ao48 takes slightly a bit more to warm up but lateral grip is phenomenal and better than r888's tires. Re55s tires are an "easy" track tire, my favorite tire of them all. You just need to experiment with all tires to understand what I mean. All 3 tires are great and if this is your first time I would use the cheapest of the 3. Make sure tire psi is 31(hot)
That depends on the type of tire and it's hot air pressure, it's a lot more complex than what you said and all tires have different characteristics and chassis geometry.
Saying that racing simulators will never be the real thing.
Sim's a sim, there are things in the game that most people dont adjust but is done in real circuit cars like mine. e.g. air pressure vs dynamic camber, though this game runs on one roll center and not 100% accurate it's light years away from other games. How many people here adjusted their air pressure??? Thought so. I think that a person that drives his own car around the track appreciates this game more as they look at other means to adjust the handling. There are a few things missing, caster adjustment, more range of semis RE55s 888's etc and racing tires for other cars, coilovers so the shock never bottoms out(which should add bump steer if not adjusted correctly) and lastly there shouldn't be a middle roll center but two independent roll centers front and rear and the variation on strut types should give another dimension has to own dynamic movement differentiates from the front to rear. Also I think they should put more tire noises, tires make 9 distinct noises.
Your refering to real time attack cars and im refering to street legal cars, xrt doesnt have diffusers etc, thats all in reference.
Also having a wing, canards bodykit is better than having nothing, a real time attack car would be completly illegal to drive on the street, for starters it wont have a cat converter and the exhaust will be over 90bc, half cage is street legal but full cage is completely illegal even if its engineered, lsd's are another defect, acrylic windows are illegal, any sort of chassis modification are illegal, ride height too low is illegal, emmissions needs to be test which will most likely fail, canards and splitters are illegal.
Fiberglass or any over poly or carbon body fabrications are illegal, etc.
In superlap yes some cars should not be on the street but their nothing like a full prep racing car, I was not even talking about this lol
You think people can do these things for a living and hire some f1 driver so your happy. All I can say is at least im doing what I like unlike some. No one cares what you think suspension settings should be or what is required, just because it might work you it doesn't mean it will work for others.
I’m aware of that "so the car will behave differently from a video game", wheelbase, weight and distribution are very similar, I don't know about roll center, track and unspring mass. Either way I like my settings and enjoy watching my replays because it looks real. By the way this is me. http://s74.photobucket.com/alb ... ¤t=_AJN6442.jpg
The drivers name is John Boston and its not his car, this event is different to a normal time attack because you have to race with road registered cars and as you are aware depending on country people are limited to what they are allowed to do to their cars. So you dont have a clue what your saying after comments like "badly prepared, overpowered understeery 4WD cars with silly bodykits and drivers ranging from second rate to comically bad is going to tell you absolutley nothing about what a good driver can do in a well setup low powered RWD car with no downforce." The only thing second rate here are your comments, maybe you should learn to ask question instead of assumptions and you still didn't answer my question, were does this .15Hz minimum rule came from? I like to understand things rather than reading rules like a parrot.
According to LFS analyser my rebound damping is optimal, bump at 75% both front and rear. Front 2.36Hz and rear 2.03Hz. Were does this .15Hz minimum rule came from.
It would be under damped if the rear spring rate was higher.
These settings are based on my real car (except for sway bar settings), the rear does incorporate anti-squat so the car will behave differently from a video game, also the game does not take caster into account, springs are F7kg/mm R5kg/mm with re-valved bilsteins.
The way that car was sliding looked to be beyond its slip limit and as Scatter posted there is a debate going on about patch Z. I hope in the following patch they relay more on tire physics and implement gearbox damage so shifting fast will cause clutch and gearbox damage while the synchros slow down to engage.
From your post you dont have a clue what time attack is here, overpowered cars with bodykits????? Were are you getting your information from.
^^ Im aware that my laps are not great, I havent been playing for almost a year but ill keep those tips in mind, the suspension set up is perfect for the tire being use, shock settings suit the spring rate.
Scatter's post is what I think is occuring.
I own a s15 and have done drift, targa and circuit days and no powerslides is not a faster way through a corner. You follow super lap(time attack japan)? Do you see anyone drifting?
There are some incorrect information in your post its not funny, you comparing rallying to circuit? lol
With the XRT on Blackwood track I was strugling to get into the 28's, eventually with some gearing tweaking and swearing a finaly got into the low 28's, saved the reply and in lfs world when uploading I noticed some people did 23's with steering and pedals???
View the reply, that car was carrying a lot of speed while oversteering, being a person that does real circuit racing these laps look unrealistic, for me to get into the 23's I would have to be more the drift king than the stig. Including drive train damage element into this game should fix this
I am aware that trial braking can shave off seconds but this is ridiculous, low 26's max.
Im not much of a arcade racer fan and I do like this game but I noticed the only suspension types this game has is a mix and match double wishbone and macpherson struts.
To the developers: Multi- link, live axle and trailing arm.
These are forms of suspension used to this day, it would be good if in future new cars are added with these types of suspension.
I have been a long user of this game and love it, but there are few things that could be improved:-
Adjusting the ride height on the set up screem shows and implements the roll center/ anti-(or pro) dive characteristics.
At certain speed data such as roll centres, weight transfer (suspended, non-suspended, geometric and elastic ), motion ratios and aerodynamic coefficients.
lol the power restrictions are only for Japan. In regards to modifications, you wouldnt want to modify the car anyways as warranty will become void, the same with every other manucfacturer.
But if you really want to modify the car, there are ways around, but this should done after warranty or you just dont care and lastly a track only r35 gtr.
Notice that at 8 psi its pretty fast like its running on c16 or is it just me.
Just a idea, a bigger turbo on the xrt with lag would require a different driving style, something like gt3582r on a 2ltr capable of 315 rwk on full boost after 5,000 rpm. Depending on the track the car can be slower or faster.
All I will say is this, people that opt to drift using this game are well aware that nothing comes close to the way the car reacts when oversteering, point being its better than any other game.
Drifting is not "racing", sure if we argue something in relation to recovering from oversteer, but not drifting.
Recently, i have been more and more violent with the shifter, eventually to the point that I could no longer select 1,2,5,6,r.
The problem was not has bad as it seem, with a closer inspection there is a plastic washer (black washer, grommet looking thing) that came loose, which by shifting side to side would jam. Plastic washer into the bin, problem solved