Right b4 people go oooo such and such a site will help you.... no it wont i've read em all and my god its not helping....

right as the title would suggest im having the overpower/out reving problem.... even when i work my way slowly into acceleration (i dont just go no throttle...THROTTLE!) the car hits a certain speed and the my rear is at the end of the corner b4 me.....

and also when i turn no matter how much slower im goin...when i put on the throttle my wheels just dont turn the car they just skid...

im using (reading from the back of the label) a thrustmaster Firestorm dual power 3 game pad, i use the analogs for accel/brake and steering...

now some of you will probably after reading that now think ah he needs trail braking or whatever its called, nope tried that...same problem

if anyone has any idea what i can do please post... its not even happening only if i use the BF1 or whatever i used the Xr GT and had the problem...

One word: Countersteer.

lol that should be two words...

and yeah tried that it just spins anyway

what set r u using? hope its not the default one. try to hit the apex point in corners, it could help u not to drift on corner exits. changing front/rear antiroll could help as well.

You could post a replay, an spr file. Just drive few laps around some circuit with consistant pace, if possible

We could then give you some pointers about it.

I'm going to bed though, but there are probably helpful people around to kick you to right direction

im pretty sure its understeer


i think its the car setting too .Have you tried softning the rear antiroll a bit?

P.S. i use a game pad too ...

the rear comes too easy - incrase the front roll bar , decrease the back.

well anti roll seems to be what most people are sayin.... btw the setup is a team inferno one....

and yeah a short replay of the probelms

EDIT: lol wrong replay!!! i'll upload the proper one later... i got soo many of drivin i dont know which is which half the time...thats when i first started

Well, if that replay is an example of how things normally go, then it seems pretty obvious to me that the setup isn't the problem. A full second into a terminal spin, you've still got your foot down in that replay. Once a car starts skidding, you have to do something to counter it, but in that replay you've still got your foot in it after you've crashed and spun.

I'm not sure what it is you're expecting, but you're not doing anything in that replay to manage the slide, or for that matter, to prevent it happening at all. There's absolutely no need for it to have gone that way. You have to recognise that the mass of the car has lateral momentum, or some such mumbo-jumbo.. basically you're sticking it at the exact time you should be doing anything BUT sticking it.

Pretty fundamental stuff. I'm not sure what to suggest.. bit of a mountain to climb, I think. Have you watched anyone else's replays?

looks like you are just trying to corner at too high of a speed and off of race line...

maybe trying to keep on the raceline will help?

also, try using the mouse and / or keyboard to drive.
i have an analogue pad too but its awful to drive with that.
im waaaaay faster with mouse (and easier IMO).

lol so in a sentence...im crap..... woop .....

cheers for help

im off to do nothin but LFS now

Nahh, not crap. Well, not totally

I'm not a fast driver. I've been playing S2 for a year and a bit now, and I'm still learning basic stuff. I'm competing in the STCC, in an RB4. The past 3 races have taught me more about car weight and momentum than any other time since I started driving - including REAL LIFE driving.

Driving a racing car in LFS, just as in real life, is about finding AND RIDING the finest line between speed and traction. If you lose traction, you lose time when you could be accelerating to a higher speed.. OR you start drifting towards a wall and crashing.. OR you overshoot a corner, and don't get a good exit angle. The mission is to get the greatest traction to allow best acceleration, to keep grip while making a turn, and to brake as late as possible without skidding (you can't stop as quickly if you're skidding - not everyone knows that). All of these things enable you to get round a track quickly.. or in worst-case scenario, to get round at all!

You'll also need to learn a bit about car setups.. things like brake balance and gear ratios, for example. Later on you can get into cambers and toe - things that will help you get a longer life out of a set of tyres, and to help you get round corners effectively without overheating them - and suspension dampening/rigidity, to help you to keep the driven wheels on the track, so they can be accelerating/braking the car.

All of these things take time to learn.. to find the limits of traction, and get to the edge of that, without going over. When you can ride that line, you'll be one fast driver.

A good guide for setups is Bob Smith's Advanced Setup Guide which can be found here http://www.thefloatingwidget.net/ . It should give you good insides of how to setup a car.

This single best bit of advice is slow in fast out and DO NOT put down more power unless you are certain it will not cause the car to go out of shape.

If you have to lift off the power or countersteer then you lose speed.

The thing you have to learn is what speed is the fastest you can take any given corner at and when you can put down the power, this is only stuff you can learn over time.

Also if you cant afford a wheel then get a cheap joystick. The problem with joypads is that you do not have a great deal of control over the amount of power you put down because the amount of movement is small.

cheers for all your help guys...... im gonna buy an expensive wheel soon, , and yeah found part of my problem, i was using manual gears and i switched to auto and shaved 4 seconds of my PB i dont think i had quite enough experience to use manual gears yet...does anyone know a wheel that has paddle gearing....

PRetty much any wheel out there has shift paddles. I'm gonna go out on a limb and recommend a Logitech Driving Force Pro. I realize people are going to think I'm nuts for not recommending a Logitech G25, but damn they're expensive, and I think the DFP is a really nice wheel, especially for the price. The DFP has paddles, and a stick sequential shifter if you so desire, and I guarantee you'll be smoother with it than using a gamepad.

Momo / DFP (£50, when the G25 is out the price will falll even more)

G25 (£150, GREAT wheel)

Well obviously i don't know about the other rwd cars of S2, but i have the same problem with the XRT, just can't keep the back end under control. I'm using a mouse for steering, and a joystick for throttle/break. Mainly driving the XFG (my pb with that is 1:33:92 btw), just ocassionally trying out the XRT, but got annoyed with it fast every time. First i used mouse for throttle/break too, and i thought it was because of the digital inputs that i couldn't keep the rwd cars from spinning. So i changed to joystick, but it didn't suddenly make me any better. So what i'm doing now, is driving the XRG, it's much easier since it doesn't have as much power as the XRT, but you still have to be cautious with the throttle during corners. I'll practice with it a little, then i'll see if i learned anything from it to help me drive the XRT properly.

The bad about LFS is that indeed the rear is very willing to overtake the front. I don't think driving cars 'fast' would give you such issues in real life.

The good is that you can apply 'logic' (countersteering etc) to get you out of the trouble..

So while I think the topic starter is right that there is a problem, you can certainly learn to deal with it a bit better. Eventually, hopefully, physics will be even better and driving will become more natural.

If you drove exactly like real life (same steering inputs and throttle inputs etc) then I think LFS is very close. It's almost impossible to make the cars spin then. But as soon as you driving like a sim (flat out almost everywhere, no g-forces telling you what not to do etc) you'll find any simulation will become oversteery.

The simple fact is that those that complain most about it are the slow people who don't know how to drive. Those people that can drive, either in real life or in simulations, realise that driving correctly yields very correct car behaviour.

I'm not saying it's perfect - of couse it isn't. There remain a few issues about the combination of longitudinal and lateral traction, and the method of loss & recovery of that traction, but it's not far off, and certainly not so far off to make cars particularly oversteery.

In short - it's your driving that is the problem. Sorry.

In real life you drive primarily by the "seat of your pants" i.e. you can pick up even the slightest slides quickly and correct them by sensing the cars lateral or yaw motion. In a sim you must learn to get that feedback through other means.
I rely alot on sound, abit on ffb from the wheel and only a little from visual que's (if it's obvious visually then your reacting late when it comes to correcting a slide). Lastly a fast driver don't necessarily react faster than others, but more likely he has learnt to anticipate better than others.
For sound in options I turn skid volume boost up to x3 and learned to distinguish between the different stages of skidding (i.e. SkidRoadHeavyPre, SkidRoadHeavyMinor and SkidRoadHeavyMajor Note - all these sound are progressive). This helps alot in driving the car near the limit. You should avoid the major skidding but be able to hear the SkidRoadHeavyPre sound to be near the limit.

Quote from Niels Heusinkveld :

The bad about LFS is that indeed the rear is very willing to overtake the front. I don't think driving cars 'fast' would give you such issues in real life.

The good is that you can apply 'logic' (countersteering etc) to get you out of the trouble..

So while I think the topic starter is right that there is a problem, you can certainly learn to deal with it a bit better. Eventually, hopefully, physics will be even better and driving will become more natural.

Sorry to say but it is probably lead foot syndrome and if you did the same IRL the back end would be very similar. In a corner when you load the tires with cornering forces it takes VERY little power to push them over the edge of grip. A tire can't give full cornering grip if you are also putting power through the tire. Its just IRL you react to the back end going quickly as you feel it quicker.

Also if you use a steering wheel without a realistic lock you are able to apply extreme steering angles very quickly which again effects car balance.

Finally if you are not keeping track of the balance of the car during every input you will have no idea what state the car is in and hence what effect new input will have. This is what seat of the pants feel gives you IRL.

As trist stated, the grip and way the cars act is very close to real life its just that IRL most people never drive as they do in an environment where fear plays no part in how you drive and your controller allows you to give inputs you might not IRL.

To ram the point home, in NZ you can drive at 15 and do not require any car insurance to drive. This coupled with a glut of cheap cars and you can guess what happens. The WRX and Skyline are cheap and popular here and so are panel beaters. In Christchurch there are 135 panel beater companies for a population of 300000 people. Wonder how many are for all the people that didnt realise the back end of a car swaps ends when you drive wrong

yeah i'll agree the handling is very similar to real life (i own a caterham) and the LX4/6 are almost right on the money they do react very touchy.... but the BF1 is no good...the traction control system doesnt work..... well it does just when it wants in my life i've never seen an F1 car spin when it accelerates off the start.... cos of traction control, but when you accelerate on LFS it just spins...good fun for doin driftin...(altho driftin is gay) but not for anythin else

ever thought that maybe your throttle control just sucks?