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Setups are really weird
(7 posts, started )
Setups are really weird
So I finally have managed to create my very own setup from scratch (hard_track) for the xfg, and I just cant get the final touch in it. What I basically did was a 'click and try' type, and now I manage to get 1.34.3x times on BL1 (which is very close to my pb on a received setup).

The car stays on the road most of the time, and now I can really race with it i.e. take different lines and not losing too much momentum. Previous setups always were grumpy and I drove on the grass if I took a different line than the optimum racing line. So now I can try to defend position without driving offroad

Actual problem:

But there is something wrong with it, it is not 'smooth' and I constantly have to make minor corrections in entering and mid corners. When I try to i.e. tune the rollbars, they seem to work backwards. Adding front rollbar just makes the cars tail fly side to side.

The wiki-manual says that oversteer in just about anywhere in the corner, adding front antiroll or reducing rear antiroll should fix the problem. Have I totally read the instructions wrong or am I hallucinating the problem?

Now you can smack me and say: 'use the search button'. And my reply would be, 'I did but I didnt find anything'
If only it were that simple. Unfortunately it's not. ARB rates required depend on spring and damper rates too. So you can get wierd results like that you describe.

Sounds like you may need a bit more front spring rate or maybe even front bump.

When I adjust sets I tend to work in 1 (defo not more than 2 or 3) clicks at a time.

Often, if I want less oversteer I will add 1 click of ARB, spring and front bump.

Also, your brake balance could be affecting things. Too much rear can make it snappy under braking, too much front and you can't get the nose in while trail braking.

Also, try messing about with the diff. Not enought pre-load or coast locking can also cause the problems you describe.
If my memory serves me correctly, I remember that in LFS there is an issue with the ARBs on front driven cars, they work the other way around. Putting more ARB on front makes the car more oversteery and vice-versa.
FWDs:

More front ARB = less understeer
Less front ARB = more understeer

More rear ARB = more oversteer
Less rear ARB = more understeer

imo
No, that is too generalised. What you say is only true if you use a high locking LSD or locked diff, and only in the resulting on-power-oversteer situations.

If you take a "realistic" road setup with open diff, you'll easily notice that a high front ARB car will understeer even when you try to induce oversteer by lift-off and weight shift. Maybe it will do it a bit, but it's pretty hard. Now compare it with a low front ARB setup and you'll notice that it's much easier to get the desired oversteer. Only when you use locked diffs and their car-only-turns-when-giving-throttle behaviour, then what you say is true, because then the increased front stiffness somehow aids the weird going-ons that make FWD power oversteer happen in LFS.
Yes, well, I base my comments on the classic FWD combo XFG/LD. I don't find any of the FWDs even remotely drivable without a high-lock diff, at least to an effect where there'd be any benefit to running low lock, with the exception of the GTRs.
On the FWD cars that can run a locked differential, a stiff front ARB will tend to cause the inside front wheel to lift off the ground. With only the outside drive wheel on the ground, the car rotates very easily.

Setups are really weird
(7 posts, started )
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