Ive read a few posts and heard that in up and coming patches the clutch will be able to "stall". Only issue is, unless i tack it up to 5 grand and slip the clutch it will literally die. Will it be changed to where u can tack it up to like a real car?

Guess you will find out when the patch comes out =) Engine inertia is changed too so they will rev differently ( I hope)

What?
1) The engine stalls. Never heard of a clutch stalling.
2) What do you mean with "tack it up"?

Quote from 98LS1 :

Ive read a few posts and heard that in up and coming patches the clutch will be able to "stall". Only issue is, unless i tack it up to 5 grand and slip the clutch it will literally die. Will it be changed to where u can tack it up to like a real car?

You always could if you have a button mapped to a clutch or a clutch pedal.

The problem with the current implementation is that you cannot feather the clutch at all. It is either engaged or not engaged with no slipping in between. This is my impression of the current implementation and not confirmed by anything I have seen put out officially on this.

I hope with this release that there is some work done to the clutch to allow for slipping so that we can feather the clutch in. I suppose that there might have to be some automation there to for people who want/need to use a clutch button on their wheel since buttons are binary, on or off. I expect the Auto Clutch feature will handle it nicely.

The way I used to do it before I got a clutch pedal was I had a button mapped to the clutch. I still left auto clutch turned on since I still use paddle shifters. This method works pretty well and I expect it will continue to work well for people who do not have an analog clutch or who can't use and analog clutch.

Hello? Have you ever used the clutch with a clutch pedal? Of course it allows slippage and feathering in. Seriously.

The thing i hope is improved, is kind of the biting point. On the G25, at 5000rpm, you only lift the clutch about 0.5cm and the biting point is found. I hope they will make it more realistic.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Hello? Have you ever used the clutch with a clutch pedal? Of course it allows slippage and feathering in. Seriously.

Yes, I do have an analog clutch pedal and yes I have tried it. Hello?

I dare you to slip a clutch. Rev it up to 5k, try to feather the clutch in. You will either not be moving, or you will be spinning tires. There will be nothing in between.

Your clutch pedal is broken then. Turn on the pedal view (the bars in the lower right corner) and see if the blue bar is a on/off thingy or can be smoothly adjusted like the other bars. It's the latter for me, and that is the way it should be. I can slip the clutch all day long. In fact, I'll go record a replay now.

E: here it is...

The clutch in LFS is progressive, just as AndroidXP describes it. There is plenty of travel in the clutch between not moving and the point where it is fully disengaged.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Your clutch pedal is broken then. Turn on the pedal view (the bars in the lower right corner) and see if the blue bar is a on/off thingy or can be smoothly adjusted like the other bars. It's the latter for me, and that is the way it should be. I can slip the clutch all day long. In fact, I'll go record a replay now.

I can assure you that my clutch is not broken. Yes, I have pedal view on and I can see the analog clutch move through the whole range. But the simulated clutch (not the pedal) is either engaged or not engaged. There seems to be no pressure plate modeled that would allow for varing levels of contact.

I've added the replay above. Please have a look.

Quote from Hallen :

Yes, I do have an analog clutch pedal and yes I have tried it. Hello?

I dare you to slip a clutch. Rev it up to 5k, try to feather the clutch in. You will either not be moving, or you will be spinning tires. There will be nothing in between.

Is the clutch pedal assigned in Axis?

Quote from niall09 :

Is the clutch pedal assigned in Axis?

it will not work at all if it is assigned as button

Quote from AndroidXP :

I've added the replay above. Please have a look.

I can't look. I am at work. Thanks for putting it together though.

But, I am sure I understand what you are saying. Yes, an analog clutch pedal has a full range of motion that is detected and used by the program. But that is not what I am trying to talk about. See my post above.

Quote from RacerAsh3 :

The thing i hope is improved, is kind of the biting point. On the G25, at 5000rpm, you only lift the clutch about 0.5cm and the biting point is found. I hope they will make it more realistic.

You can already sort-of do that yourself. If you go to Options > Controls, hit recalibrate axes and make sure that calibration lock is off. Recalibrate all your other axes as normal, just leave out the clutch one. Then slowly press down the clutch pedal to the point where you want the bite-point to be (= don't press down fully). Then release the pedal again. Now turn on calibration lock. LFS will think that your clutch is fully depressed when it really isn't, moving the bite point away from the back.

Quote from AndroidXP :

You can already sort-of do that yourself. If you go to Options > Controls, hit recalibrate axes and make sure that calibration lock is off. Recalibrate all your other axes as normal, just leave out the clutch one. Then slowly press down the clutch pedal to the point where you want the bite-point to be (= don't press down fully). Then release the pedal again. Now turn on calibration lock. LFS will think that your clutch is fully depressed when it really isn't, moving the bite point away from the back.

Kinda works, but in game, when you press it fully again, doesnt it re-re calibrate?

No, that's why you turn calibration lock on

Eric, Android is right my friend, I can use the clutch slip to launch any car perfectly, including the turbos. In fact, before the clutch heat coming in this patch, I would use it to build boost without bouncing off the limiter like a nutcase. I've used the slip to get perfect launches with the FZ50, with progressively less slip over about 3 seconds keeping the tires close to optimum long slip just by sound, and holding the engine at a given RPM just using the clutch. If anything, there's probably TOO wide a variance of slip over the range of pedal travel... That's probably OK though since we have no butt feel. Not sure what's happening over on your end, but something is sure wrong.

O yer, my bad Thanks for help

200 Posts! Woo

In your first post, you said turn it off 0o

I used to have some mean jokes over cars in LFS by putting it straight into last gear, flooring the gas and then acting with Clutch as if I'm a Variator gearbox was fun, but I wonder how much time I'll be able to do it with new patch

LOL! Probably not too long I would imagine

Damn, i didn't know that clutch is simulated like that, with the slippage and feathering and all, i also though it works like ON/OFF... Impressive stuff!

Quote from [RF]-art555 :

I used to have some mean jokes over cars in LFS by putting it straight into last gear, flooring the gas and then acting with Clutch as if I'm a Variator gearbox was fun, but I wonder how much time I'll be able to do it with new patch

With the new patch, it's gonna smell REALLY goofy.

Anyway, engine inertia sounds exactly like the thing I've been waiting for for a long time. The rising RPM is so dull and static without it, we need the engine to be growling and spinning like a real car!

Quote from (SaM) :

With the new patch, it's gonna smell REALLY goofy.

I need to get rid of clogged nose as soon as possible or I'll burn the clutch at the start of the race

Quote from AndroidXP :

You can already sort-of do that yourself. If you go to Options > Controls, hit recalibrate axes and make sure that calibration lock is off. Recalibrate all your other axes as normal, just leave out the clutch one. Then slowly press down the clutch pedal to the point where you want the bite-point to be (= don't press down fully). Then release the pedal again. Now turn on calibration lock. LFS will think that your clutch is fully depressed when it really isn't, moving the bite point away from the back.

This helps a bit but does not help with the fact that unless the clutch pedal is 100% down you can miss shifts.

The better solution that is a one time setup is to use DXTweak to change the axis. I have mine so it only operates the clutch over about 1/3 of the travel with that nearer the top of the pedal travel. This makes it feel more real and stops the miss shifts.