hi all, just got my momo racing wheel through the post, looks nice and fine but i just cant get it set up for live for speed. i just dont know where to start and the logitech profiler isnt any help either. if anyone can help me out that would be superb. ill upload a screen of the settings in LFS which atm is messed up to buggery, the accelerator and brake are full on and when i push the brake pedal the car goes, so the pedals are inverted somehow :/ i dunno, check the pic out and see if you can help
EDIT: also the steering is very sensitive, like full lock within a couple of centimeters on moving the wheel yet all seems fine in the logitech setup control panel thingy
many thanks, jim.

Just turn off Combined in Logitech drivers.
Like on picture.

ok, thanks for the fast reply much appreciated. ok i have the pedals sorted they just needed inverting, now i only have one problem and thats a hyper sensitive wheel, in the diver setting i only have it on like 10% but i cant see anything in lfs for steering sensitivity, as i say it only takes a couple of centimetres to go from full lock to full lock. i think my wheel settings are in the previous screen. any more help would of course be very greatly appreciated as im very lazy and have no idea what im doing. this wheel lark is very annoying and BTW my momo wheel only spins 240 degrees closest i could getwas like 238 or something

Plug in the wheel, turn it from lock to lock. Start LFS, turn from lock to lock once again. Your wheel should now be sorted.

Hello jim,

you can assign (by typing) a proper value by using "right-click" on the slider first. Works for (m)any settings in LFS.

As for the sensitivity, have you turned your wheel from lock to lock after changing any settings? You can also change the wheel turn compensation to higher values (it should be less sensitive around the center afterwards).

Regards,

nazzard

im not sure what i did but its fine now i have to turn off FF it just gives too much resistance on the cars so im just gonna leanr without it for a while :P thanks for all the help guys much appreciated

Well you should learn with FF on. If you learn with it off, then try and turn it on, you will have to start from square one. In my opinion start with FF at 50% in LFS. Then as you get used to it, gradually increase it lap by lap by 5%, but pressing the > button (< is less, > is more).

Quote from xapexcivicx :

Well you should learn with FF on. If you learn with it off, then try and turn it on, you will have to start from square one. In my opinion start with FF at 50% in LFS. Then as you get used to it, gradually increase it lap by lap by 5%, but pressing the > button (< is less, > is more).

I'd say start with a lower setting and increase it IF IT FEELS better. Heavy FF setting isn't always better. FF is good when you can easily turn wheel fast from lock to lock without fighting too much with the resistance.

Quote from deggis :

I'd say start with a lower setting and increase it IF IT FEELS better. Heavy FF setting isn't always better. FF is good when you can easily turn wheel fast from lock to lock without fighting too much with the resistance.

specialy on oval :/ ..hate fighting with FF on this track

Quote from luzik :

specialy on oval :/ ..hate fighting with FF on this track

That's because there are elements of the setup missing for oval racing. You can't set the car up for just turning left as in Nascar Racing. We need staggar (one side of tires larger in diameter than the other) and weight bias. Until these settings are included in setup, oval racing will never be right. Put these settings in and a few more oval configurations, like half mile and 1 mile tracks, steep bank and flat bank, and I may drive ovals a bit more often. It would be a nice escape from road racing if we had proper oval and setup options.

Hi!
I have a problem with my MOMO Racing. I think sg. is with the sensitivity.
I got a CD for my wheel, and Installed it. I have a program called Logitech profiler. I set Wheel options, and set sensitivity to 100%
Nothing happened.
When I'm playing LFS, turn my wheel, there is a bit pause betwen the reactions of the two wheels. They dont work in one time. IT's so annoying.
Can anyone please help me?

I attach My settings

Real quick post as I'm about to watch a movie that's ready to start with the wife....

First off, if the driver version that was included with the wheel is NOT version 4.60, then google search for "wingmanteam" and find the 4.60 drivers (might say it's for the Driving Force Pro) and use them.

Screenie #1 - At the very bottom, "Remove deadzones" set to YES.

Screenie #2 - In the force feedback section with the sliders. Keep the FF slider at 100% and set all other sliders to 0%

Screenie #3 - I've never had or attempted to mess with that part of the Logitech program.

Hope that sheds a little bit of help.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

mrodgers> nothing changed

Could anyone please attach his MOMO settings in LFS and the 4.60 driver?

I need more

The settings I have in LFS in screenshots, I have the same settings as you in the logitech profiler Hope that helps. Below is a link to the download page for the latest profiler.

http://www.wingmanteam.com/lat ... ware/latest_soft_main.htm

Thanks

Hi! I originally started asking about this in a different thread, but then I figured it would be more appropriate to put it in here.

So i got my momo today, and I'm very pleased so far. I've followed the LSF manual guide to setting up the profiler, but I'm a little confused with regards to the "wheel turn degrees" and "wheel turn compensation" in LSF. Can anyone tell me what settings they're using here? Seems like some people use 0.0 for the compensation while others use 1.0.. what do you think is best? I've been using 0.9 so far, but I'd like to hear what others do.

242 Degrees,
0.30 compesation
5% FF
I also set the wheel lock on my setups one quarter lower than stock for GT and open wheel cars and quarter lower (30* to 22*) for the tin-tops. This is just enough to be able to correct the car when it slides w/o overcorrecting too easily. The wheel (steering) lock is another way to slow the steering if you suffer over-sensitivity - or you could just drink some vodka and become vulgar (ha-ha).
Haven't messed with stock profiler settings either since most games allow you to set the sensitivity through them.

All right, thanks! I'll try lowering the compensation slider. Seems like that should give me more sensitivity and accuracy for turning in the "normal" region (i.e. not hairpins, but normal curves). My problem is that I seem to loose control of the back end too easily, and I think this could help.

With my MOMO, I have it set at LFS's default of 270 degrees, and I have compensation set at 0.5.

OK, I have another question:

Is it possible to adjust the maximal rotation of the LSF wheel? I mean, from what I gather now, it's like this:

240 degrees of MOMO rotation <--> 720 degrees of LSF wheel <--> ~ 30 degrees of tyres

What I want to know is if it's possible to adjust it so that

240 degrees of MOMO rotation <--> ~ 400 degrees of LSF wheel <--> ~ 20 degrees of tyres

I know that this would make it harder to get around hairpins, but I'd like to know if it's possible to play around with this.

The reason I ask is that I think it's good to have a pretty linear relationship between the MOMO rotation and the LSF rotation. This is governed by the degree compensation slider (from 0 to 1). However if I set this to 1 the relationship will be nearly linear for, say, the first 90 degrees to either side, and then it seems to get almost exponential from 90 to 120 degrees for the remaining hundreds of degrees of rotation of the LSF wheel (inevitably).

Any ideas?