That's great... but you're still talking nonsense, how then in your experience can a spark plug function without electricity or are you just typing drivel without thinking as usual?
Typical S14 nonsense... with conventional engine wiring the all the earths (including battery and alternator) are connected together usually via the bodyshell. The battery and alternator live are conventionally connected directly together, you can take full battery/alternator power off either the positive terminal of the battery or alternator. Any engine with conventional wiring will run just on the alternator, although the rectifier/regulators on some modern alternators will get damaged if they have no battery to charge.
In some cases batteries that have gone properly tits up end up drawing so much charge out the circuit that the alternator is unable to cope, in these cases simply disconnecting the battery will allow the engine to run on the alternator.
Your idea a 'fully carb'd' (whats a part carb'd vehicle? Carburetors on 1 & 2 and fuel injection on 3 & 4?) can run without any electrical power shows you have no clue what you're on about. Spark ignition engines (and compression ignition engines don't use carburetors!) use electrical magic to make the sparks and that electricity has to come from a power source ie. an alternator/battery/some other form of generator.
I would love to see you come up with an alternative to electronic ignition, maybe mechanically driven flint spark plugs could be the future?
Nonsense! Conventional automatics (ie. gearboxes with a set number of ratios) always 'hold' in a gear, they have to, there are only a set number of ratios and the only difference between manual override and automatic modes is the point at which the ratio changes are actuated.
Conventional automatic gearboxes are not and have never been rubber belt driven! You're getting confused with CVT transmissions, only a small number of which have used rubber drive belts (the DAF/Volvo 340 being the only car example of note).
A CVT transmission is completely different due to having no fixed gear ratios, they are potentially the most efficient form of transmission as they can hold an engine at its optimum speed. They have failed to take off partly due to early designs using simple manifold vacuums to rather crudely control the gear ratio tending to run an engine above the optimum speed at low engine loads, where car engines spend most of there time operating, giving poor fuel economy. With modern electronic control CVT gearboxes could be very efficient but the characteristics of a car with engine speed independent to road speed is unpopular, many modern CVT gearboxes have modes that simulate gear changes which completely defeats the point!
I'm currently running about in a Volvo 340 variomatic, it's surprisingly nippy at low/medium speeds and certainly seems to out accelerate a manual 1.4 340 (which I also own, don't ask!) to around 40mph and just about anything off the line, incredibly amusing to see the confusion on the faces of chavved up Corsa/Saxo drivers when the grannie-mobile blasts past as they fumble about finding second gear!
Conventional autos are less efficient than manuals (regardless of what shift points are used) mainly because the torque converter is an inefficient drive coupling. Modern autos are starting to use mechanical engagement systems once at speed to reduce their drivetrain losses but still have greater rotating mass/fluid drag from having the torque converter there. On a side note the Volvo uses a completely conventional dry clutch plate engaged by centrifugal force.
It's a car, gets from A to B perfectly well, cheap to put fuel in, maintain, tax and insure. I don't need a fashion statement or iPod connectivity.
Do you ever stop to think before you type? The main reason people buy small engined cars and the industry as a whole is moving towards smaller engines is because of their fuel economy/emissions performance. Unless you sit on the motorway all day larger engines will not give better fuel economy.
It is perfectly possible to pick up a 10 year old car with a 1.2 petrol engine for peanuts that will do 40mpg if you don't drive like a chav...
Utter nonsense, all modern engines have pressurised oil lubricated main and big end bearings, without constant lubrication you've got steel on steel. Severe wear to an engine is near enough instantaneous as soon as the pressurised feed is lost, oil surge during cornering is an engine killer. If you don't stop immediately the engine will be lost, by the time the warning light (usually quite a bit lower than correct oil pressure at high speed) comes on it will often be too late.
If, however, one chooses to ignore the minor inconvenience of no oil in the sump (a common occurrence in rallying) an engine will usually last for some time before it seizes up, up to 40 minutes is achievable. The trick is not to let the revs drop, if they do the engine will seize and everything will weld itself together, it'll never restart.
If you want to be taken seriously you should have sent a formal e-mail that you had thought through with decent structure and grammar.
Any e-mail sent at 4.30am with a smiley and lots of really quite poor assertions that you're in the trade. The fact you ask so many questions, give a comically simple list of things that you did don't back this up.
You should have started with "Dear Sir" and then given a clear introduction to what you're writing about, going straight into gibberish about how you've lost the paperwork isn't helpful.
The carpet trick is the best way to get things moving that are either too big or in too dangerous a position to push. It is sacrificial though (assuming you don't want to stop and get stuck again) so its worth having a few bits in the car.
Snow chains do magically allow you to drive on snow and ice though! I got stuck trying to get up a decent hill on my way home from work tonight (2 chevrons for those who use OS maps). I was able to do an effortless hill start with the chains on. Well it wasn't strictly from the point I got to without the chains as the car slid sideways down the road a few feet once I had stopped
Everybody should have a set of chains in the boot, once/never used pairs are virtually given away on ebay whenever it isn't snowing.
Far too many people seem to try driving at a hill slowly and then flooring it once they start to lose grip. Production car trials are pretty good practice for driving on snow. People look rather bemused at you bouncing up and down and not driving straight up the hill, but they look more confused when you make it to the top of the hill!
The other thing that doesn't help people is the modern fad for unnecessarily wide and low profile tyres on everyday cars. They're bad for comfort and fuel economy and are completely useless in winter weather. I've found that the little 1.2 Clio that I accidentally purchased recently (when I crashed into the back of it!) can climb up hills without breaking traction that modern saloons and Chelsea tractors can't climb up. Nothing better than watching an X5 try and follow with its silly tyres and lead footed driver!
That's missing the point though, fitting modern bonded windscreens is very difficult. Your quotes include cutting the old windscreen out, cleaning the remaining adhesive, applying new adhesive and accurately positioning the new screen, plus extra labour like your fancy sensor. You are paying for labour and the specialist tools not just the price of the windscreen.
If you really want to buy a screen and then try and fit it then go to a breakers, modern windscreens aren't very valuable as very few people fit them themselves anymore.
I did a trip up north at the weekend, filling up at Tescos in Oxford was 114.9 on Friday. I filled up at a Shell garage in remotest Derbyshire for 111.9, definitely cheaper up north
In the end I forked out the £30 for a months membership on easyroommate last night. I have since been inudated with calls and the first guy came to look round after work today, he turned out to be completely genuine and new the house would be right as he had seen my detailed ad. Whilst it's not cheap for £30 I did find the room mate I was looking for within 24 hours, could have only paid £20 for ten days...
...and best of all I didn't get any spam from using this site, all the Gumtree ad did was fill my inbox and phone with spam.
That was a horrible accident. I find the marshals response disgraceful, basic first aid wasn't followed, the situation could easily have been made safe but instead they quite literally carted a corpse off without even putting him onto the stretcher properly for a spinal injury and then managed to drop the stretcher.
This would never have been dealt with in the same way by British marshals, peoples safety is always more important than the inconvenience of stopping a race for TV, I think anyone involved with motorsport would agree. We had a club race red flagged once so the ambulances and doctor could support the ambulance crew at a nearby motocross track. After the initial confusion and frustration as to why the race had been abandoned everybody was supportive of the action when they learnt what had happened, can we really put a price on fellow racers safety?
Has anybody had any experience with room mate advertising sites?
I'm currently trying to let out a spare room in a student house and have found a couple of sites, of which easyroommate.com seems the best. There are a number of suitable ads on the site and they do look genuine, however, in order to contact people the membership is £30/month.
Does anybody know of any sites that are less expensive that get results? I'm happy to pay a bit but £30 seems a bit excessive for an ad like this.
Yes, I think it does, you can download the trial to try. I managed to import Excel data and make the map attached in about 15 minutes after first opening, I think there were some gaps in the data because the test run had to be rushed due to a problem with the dyno's water tower.
If I remember rightly you've got to put the data into a matrix (which it does for you at the press of a button) before you can use the surface map charts.