I have a setup that I made years ago, thank Sgt.Gunlee for sending it to me a few weeks ago.

I was horrible at making setups, and it can be highly twitchy under extreme conditions. Just slap some supers on, raise the camber, and you've got a great setup - well, I hope it is. Enjoy, and feel free to play with it.

I have a tendency to run high FFB settings with my G25 on a wobbly desk. It shakes side to side, and as a result the monitor started wobbling greatly, and it actually popped a cap somewhere in it. Tried re-soldering ones that were swollen. Never did work - it's stuck with a permanent blue tint.

Helpful to him, I guess.

You're coming off as bit of an ass. Let him try the game, and give him resources he asks for. He wants applications that can present information on a separate monitor.

Keep your discrepancies to yourselves, and do something useful. At the very least put on a show that this community isn't full of jackasses. Maybe he'll buy an S2 license once he gets to enjoy the people he's around - something you're not eager for apparently.

There are none that take use of a second monitor that I know of, apart from LFS Dashboard. You can get creative and make a set of realgauges using real gauges like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... i2LWg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69RGQrF6i_g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... SyFco&feature=related

I'd recommend a setup similiar to those instead of using a second monitor. I used to have a dual monitor setup, but the second at an angle so I wouldn't have to take more than a glance. And it ended up ruining my monitor.

Enjoy.

I had lots, and lots of fun with those!

Are you going to use me and D in every vid from now on? I think it looks good.

Hmh, I don't know about that. Sounds to me like you've been trying people who just can't set up their car right.

I don't know, I just found it more helpful than what was to be found in the guides you posted. It is a bit easier to understand, and can give a reasonable example of what would be useful, or a standard. Not to mention diagnosing a problem - which is pretty much a plus for anyone.

ORIGINAL SOURCE: http://www.drifting.com/forums ... ing-rates-learn-here.html

Quote :

Front spring rate increase:
More under steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; reduces front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: terminal under steer; front of car hops in corners; excessive wheel spin on inside front tire on FF cars.

Front spring rate decrease:
Less under steer; decreases proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; increases front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of to much adjustment: Too much over steer; over steer then under steer if spring is so soft that the car bottoms out on lean, car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.

Rear spring rate increase:
More over steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not increased; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed.
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: too much over steer; sidestep hop in corners; twitchy; pretty scary.

Rear spring rate decrease:
Less over steer: decreases proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not changed; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car under steers; if way to soft car under steers then over steers as car bottoms out on lean; car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.

Front anti-roll bar stiffer: more under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: terminal under steer; lifts inside front tire off the ground witch can cause massive wheel spin on FF cars; also not good for most effective tire usage as inside tire is now doing nothing.

Front anti-roll bar softer: less under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: overstate scary; more like fun

Rear anti-roll bar stiffer: more over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Big-time over steer. Can cause inside rear tire to lift off the ground.

Rear anti-roll bar softer: less over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: under steer; slow and boring

Front tire pressure higher: less under steer by reducing slip angels on most tires
Usable adjustment: up to 55psi hot
Symptoms of too much adjustment: no traction- tire crowned so more under steer; adds wheel spin in FF cars; jarring ride; center of tire wears out

Front tire pressure lower: more under steer by increasing slip angles on most tires
Usable adjustment: not less then 20psi
Symptoms of too much adjustment: edges of tire wear quickly because tire is folding over; feels mushy; tires chunk because low pressure means heat build up.

Rear tire pressure higher: less over steer by reducing slip angles on most tires
Usable range: up to 45psi hot
Symptoms of too much adjustment: no traction—tire is crowned so more over steer; bad wheel spin on FR cars; jarring ride; center of tire wears out.

Rear tire pressure lower: more over steer by incresing slip angles on most tires.
Usable range: not less then 20psi
Symptoms of too much adjustment: edges of tire wear quickly because tire is folding over; feels mushy; tires chunk because low pressure means heat build up

More negative camber front: less under steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load.
Usable range: up to 3.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: poor braking; car is road crown sensitive; twitchy; front tires wear on inside edge

More negative camber rear: less over steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load. More rear grip
Usable range: up to 2.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: more over steer; car feels twitchy in back; tires wear out on inside edge; less breakaway warning when limit is exceeded.

Ride height to low (typical beginner mistake): car is twitchy with unpredictable dynamics. Bump steer make you life miserable.
Usable range: usually 1.5-2.0 inches lower then stock unless car has been modified to go lower.
Symptoms of too much adjustment: everything that could possibly go wrong: sudden over/under steer; twitchy due to bump steer; very harsh ride; premature tire wear.

Toe in – front: car is stable going straight. Turn in is average
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car has slow twitchiness under braking; feels odd; kills outside edge of tires

Toe out – front: Car turns in well; works pretty well on FF car as they tend to toe-in under load.
Usable range: 0-1/4 inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Car is really twitchy under braking; car wanders on straight road; kills inside edge of tire

Toe in – rear: car is less likely to over steer when the throttle is lifted
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: weird, slow, rocking movement in back; feels slow but still unstable; wears outside edge of tires.

Toe out – rear: Helps car rotate useful in low speed and slalom courses; very common on FF pro rally cars.
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: not to good for street driving; causes lift throttle over steer; makes violent side to side rocking motions in the rear; tie wears on inside more.

Positive front caster: helps stability; suspension will get more negative camber when turning; reducing positive caster reduces steering effort. (Negative caster is not usable)
Usable range: 4-9 degrees positive
Symptoms of too much adjustment: can increase under steer especially in cars with wide low-profile tires. Can increase steering effort.

Single adjustable shock stiffer: Better turn in; better transient response; causes slower onset of over/under steer by slowing weight transfer depending on what end of the car is adjusted.
Symptoms of too much adjustment: suspension becomes unresponsive; ride gets harsh; car skips over bumps, loosing traction; Causes a big delay in weight transfer resulting in strange handling like under steer then late corner stage over steer.

Single adjustable shock softer: slower transient response; quicker onset of over/under steer
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car oscillates due to under dampened spring motion, like a boat. Car gets twitchy in turns. Feels unstable.




Have fun tuning your suspention. Use Toe and Camber to your advantage! Even Tire pressure helps.

I thought alot of you might enjoy this read. I found it quite useful for tuning my XRT. And this should give a boost to some of you that are a bit dim of how suspension components affect each other.

Still sounds off, he should go flying off with a resounding thud and tearing of metal after hitting the wall.

Even after reading this last night, I'm stupified as to how you take the end of BL straight properly.

I want to see any authentic car and the ability to engine swap, but I'm living in fantasy land.

Aha, yeah that's true! I did some driving tonight and pulled some great stuff, too bad I forgot to save the replay.

Hope to hear good news from your efforts!

I appreciate both the comments and replays, truly!

Racer325: I have been trying to fix the looseness of the rear-end. On tracks like South City I'd assume messing with my rebound dampening so the rear won't bounce around like a kid with a sugar high, but I'd also think that'd mess with getting the throttle out on the corner exits. I'm not sure what I'd do to fix the problem, but I'll keep trying.

Bonehead3: First mate, I just gotta say your driving scares me. But you did get up to a nice, quick speed on the straight down Blackwood, kudos on getting those brakes to work nicely. I should have uploaded my own driving replay in my first post for some decent critique, as some of the problem may also be my driving style. But I'm assuming not since there was a huge amount of sliding in both replays, but it bugs me since I cannot get that grip back there and not sacrifice turning ability.


If there's anything you two want to do to the setup that could improve it, or advice about how you felt with the setup, more detailed instead of describing it as weird, would be wholly welcome!

I guess it's whatever you want to do with it, I like to do both and I dislike switching setups, so whatever floats your boat mate.

I just had a small stab of curiosity to see how some of you guys, and girls, handle my XRT. From what I've heard and seen some people have alot of trouble, so it fits me comfortably. This isn't a serious hardcore kind of experiment, just a need to satisfy my own curiosity.

If you race, race it. If you drift, drift it. If you enjoy it, tell about it. If not, say what you didn't like. I'm all about making things better, and if there are any technical tips that anyone can drop here, by all means do so!

Enjoy.

And yes, after reading the title for this thread I realized I made a big boo boo. Don't knock me too hard for the idiotic thread title. :P

Just a thought, isn't the Torsen Differential a Clutch Pack with equivalent lock/coast and no preload?

Take a peek at the very first topic in the Car Setups subforum.

Left foot, cause it's the only foot I have.

Because if you own a R34 with BLITZ on the side and it only has 247HP, you are a gawd of drifterz. :P

Everyone ignore this guy, he just doesn't have enough car control to make it do what he wants - or the brain to figure out that an easy way is Race_S on normals, high tire pressuers, minimal rear camber, some negative toe, and closer ratios will get his weasel greased quick.

But for the sake of being nice, here's my set.

How about we stick with basics and say that drifting is the act of your arse sliding out and you hold that for a corner?

BiZO. You realize that if it were a racing simulator it would be like Gran Turismo - which has terrible physics. If your car slides your dead, you can't do it. In LFS, the physics are so well made that you have the ability to do both, as with real cars. GTR cars are hard to drift, because they weren't made too. But with road cars, you can thrash them around as what they are. Road cars that are tuned to our liking, that can be forigiving or harsh.

End of story. Lock please.

Shorter wheelbase might give those Evil Kneivels a thrill?