ohkay...apart from the fact im only putting 1.55V through it which is intels max recommendation.
By the time is breaks (2 or so years) i'll be looking around for an up-to-date computer anyway.

Yeh, but im not gonna kill it. Its on 60 C max at 3.7Ghz.
for an E8400, it's not much, only £100.
I get about that much from auntie's etc. in cash for birthdays and stuff. It's just a reward for living 1 more year.

ok....lol.

Yeh i finally got it stable at 3.4, needed some more volts at the North bridge
just tweaking it stable for 3.6
im just mucking around with this until i get my e8500, and if the temps exceed 75C i have automatic system cut-off, so to be honest i dont think much can go wrong.

52 Celcius, i'm aiming for 4Ghz, and i've got a bet going on with a few people on from another forum that i can get it to boot at 4Ghz
Right now i've got it booting and running windows at 3.7. Thats on 1.6 Vcore
My aim is 3.8 though, thats more realistic

Quote from pb32000 :

Right yer no they don't. Doesn't matter if it was 4 hours, 4 minutes or 40 secs, any of those are enough time for the CPU to get up to max temp. That's hardly surprising assuming you were running stock?

Sounds like you've gone away and possibly got this overclocking malarky dialed in now harjun. Good stuff.

ok thanks mate.
I'm very pleased with the watercooling kit, far better than i expected really. And i'm sure it's better than most of those other watercooling kits on the market, as this thing is just immense.
I was aiming for 3.6, i booted into windows and all, but Orthos was saying it wasnt stable after about 10seconds, even though all was fine, so i played safe and backed down to 3.4 and all's good.
Very pleased as it does the pi in 18, and thats with a few programmes running, and i opened windows media player towards the end lol

mine does work, it goes up to 3.4 again when i just refresh my desktop .
I'm guessing my cpu would last longer aswell, as it won't be on 3.4 when im doing homework on microsoft word

no, as i said i swapped my mini-t remote control car for an Antec 900 with a Swiftech H20 compact kit pre-installed.
I'm running it at 3.4Ghz now, all stable, intel-speedstep enabled, and its load temps are 51, so i'm quite happy about that now.

lol, just readin this guys English is a joke. Made me laugh.

new Antec 900 and Swiftech H20-Compact kit

ok, it's all setup now.
Had a few problems at first, as i was also transferring everything into an Antec 900 and the system was randomly turning on and off. But after resetting the CMOS it seems fine now, everythings back to standard now (2Ghz E2180). I'm gonna leave it like that for a little while, as i was very frustrated last night, (transferring everything to the new case).
I'm very pleased with the case aswell, lots of space to work with and its pretty big!
Well thank you for telling me to fill the rad up with JUST the Feser liquid, because that was right. I was confused because sometimes you mix the concentrate with distilled water. But this was ready to run liquid
Thanks guys.

Quote from AndroidXP :

PS: For ensuring maximum performance, don't forget to overclock the water pump, too!

yes, thank you for that.

so i have to put the 1L of it in the rad, and then put the rest of de-ion water?

Hi guys, i've got a Swiftech Water cooling kit compact.
I also have this with it, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/ ... olant%201%20Litre%20(Blue

Do i just fill the whole thing up with that?
Thanks
Harjun

Quote from lerts :

but on starights at high speed theres a low tone sound, like wind that is scarry, it scares me when im alone at night

lol

Quote from Jakg :

Now have 2x 2GB of RAM + 2x 1GB of RAM so 6GB all-in.

Whoa, bloody hell. What motherboard you use?

i think city link's immense seriously when they say next day it IS next day, better than royal mail for big parcels/boxes, but nothing beats the price of royal mail's delivery for small little packages <£5

got A NEW LG dvd rw drive for my pc today, as the samsung one failed for some reason

Quote from CSU1 :

ah tristan you bloody spoilsport, i was waiting for the are jigsaw blades supposed to glow thread lmao...

lol

Quote from mrodgers :

Jigsaw under £50? You should be able to get one under £15. Jigsaws are cheap. They run about $30 here, which would be approximately £15.

Edit: Even less than $30.... http://www.homedepot.com/webap ... 3&productId=100618261

oh, ok , then i'll use CSU1's tip, and will it cut through the 3mm?

Quote from CSU1 :

lol @ cutting 3mm alu with a snips.

Use a jig-saw AND SET TO LOW SPEED Harjun(ftr I know telling Harjun to use power-tools is loco) Make shure you set up right or there'll be an accident, go out your back garden or something and assemble a solid base to cut the sheet on, wear goggles AND WATCH YOU FINGERS.

Use straight piece of wood(or metal, anything you know for shure is straight and two clamps. Clamp the wood at both ends of the sheet and at the distance from the blade to rest alongside the base of the jigsaw. The wood will guide the jigsaw, have someone hold the off-cut as you go.

Make sure you file the rough edges afterwards.

Ok, nice idea, please can you find me a Jigsaw for under £50

Quote from CSU1 :

judging from the how do i cut aluminum straight thread, it looks like this fruitcake is going to make a twin engine RC car using mini-moto engines. Dear lord, here we go again

Harjun, are you?

wdf? no i'm not mate, i'm using 2 Go.21 7 ports or 2 RB C6 engines.

Quote from Scrabby :

You idiot drive on the street with it? FFS that's why i quited the hobby. I had a Blata WRS, a special racing minimoto but the stupid kids from here took there chinese crapbikes on the roads and everytime i started my bike to see what i could change on the setup the police was here within 10 minutes. Because of that the sport was set in bad daylight. And no they won't let you race your motorcross bike on a circuit.

i've heard from a lot of people that you can race them at kart tracks?

Quote from tristancliffe :

Exactly - most DIY snips will only go up to about 16 gauge (1.6mm) with ally, and 18 gauge (1.2mm) with steel.Good luck finding a pair for sensible money that'll cope with 3mm without bending the bejesus out of it.

Stick with a hacksaw if you've got one, or find a local engineering firm with a guillotine that'll do it in 3 seconds for free!

ok i'll stick with a hacksaw unless AJP can find me aviation snips which cut 3mm Ally

Quote from tristancliffe :

You might manage it with a hacksaw, as long as you stay a tiny bit away from the line you want, and then finish it off with a file (not a dremel - you'll never get it straight with a dremel).

The difficulty will be that the frame of the hacksaw will eventually hit the sheet, and you won't be able to cut any more. Depending on the size of your hacksaw you might be able to start from the other side and/or use the hacksaw at a large angle (less efficient, but it'll work).

Oh, and don't touch the blade afterwards. Even cutting something soft, like the plastic clamps on a Momo, will make it get really hot (actually, the plastic made it get hotter than it would with ally). Touch it and you'll look silly. Touch it whilst being filmed with a webcam and you'll look really foolish! I know - I've done it (don't ask if you don't know).

ok then, but i think i'll stick with AJP's ideas of the snippers but i can't find any which will cut the 3mm

Quote from benjie.13 :

Whole Rig:


Tower, Flash:


Tower, without flash:


Mouse, K/b, Monitor, without flash:


Mouse, K/b, Monitor, flash:

• Gainward Geforce 8800GT 512MB
  
• E8500 @ 3.16Ghz
  
• 4GB DDRII 800Mhz RAM
  
• Bluestorm 500W PSU
  
• One 120MM fan, One 70MM Fan, One 140MM Fan
  
• 250GB SATA 7200RPM HDD
  
• Soundblaster Audigy 2
  
• Logitech G15 Keyboard
  

That looks bloody amazing