As far as I know, the broadcast is continuing past 1 hour, until it breaks again 
He can edit his picture as much as he wants up until the closing time. He can remove 'Final Entry' from his post, and post another Final Entry later. I just require 'Final Entry' to be written on whichever post is the final/most up to date version, so I know which version to include in the competition poll.
Maybe I should rephrase that rule, but what it means is:
1) Any posts with half-finished pictures will be ignored if there is a completed version of the picture later on in the thread.
2) Any posts with edit dates/times AFTER the closing time of the competition will not be permitted into the competition, unless I know or the entrant can prove that they made no changes to the picture after the closing time.
Maybe I should rephrase that rule, but what it means is:
1) Any posts with half-finished pictures will be ignored if there is a completed version of the picture later on in the thread.
2) Any posts with edit dates/times AFTER the closing time of the competition will not be permitted into the competition, unless I know or the entrant can prove that they made no changes to the picture after the closing time.
I suppose it's... creative 
What happened to your traffic light? :P
Event registration link added to OP.
As far as I can see, this is just an Applefied and perhaps less useful Tablet PC. I don't get why some people are seeing it as some kind of amazing revolutionary thing. It's cheaper than your average Tablet PC, I'll give them that. But it's not a Tablet PC 
But it doesn't matter what it is. As soon as they stick a lowercase "i" infront of it, it is guaranteed to sell by the millions :doh:
But it doesn't matter what it is. As soon as they stick a lowercase "i" infront of it, it is guaranteed to sell by the millions :doh:
Unless you buy a complete banger for £20, it should be sold with some sort of warranty that at least covers engine and gearbox for a small period of time.
Can I emphasise that old images are not allowed. Last week was an exception to the rule, because the focus was on old LFS scenes.
LFS Photomode Competition Round 55: Next Generation Graphics
This weeks theme is... "Next Generation Graphics".
Rules: (made by Taavi(EST), these will not be changed)
Edit a screenshot showing next generation graphics
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Cars: All Cars
Tracks: All Tracks
As usual, a preview pic of no bigger than 400 x 400 px , a link to the high res version and please write 'Final Entry' if it is so. Once you have posted your final entry, any edited posts will be removed from the competition.
Any entries with preview pictures bigger than 400 x 400 px will not be accepted
All entrants to post between the time of this post and 22:00 GMT on Friday 5th February 2010
No renders or old images to be used. Use only your own work. NO VOB MODS!
Thanks and good luck to all.
As first practice sessions go, that definitely wasn't one of the worst/as bad as it could have been. Even if there was a bit of noobery going on. 
Last edited by JO53PHS, .
There's no doubt that there's some good high mileage cars around, but you do have to be more careful what you buy, and do a bit more research about the car and any potential problems.
But then again, a low mileage car that's never been given a good run is a problem. We had this Mercedes S500 recently that had just been used around town. The first bit of boot on the motorway, and then engine managment light came on and it started misfiring. The end result (iirc) was that it needed a new coil pack.
Last edited by JO53PHS, .
Surely it's obvious that if the car you are going to buy has a huge crack down the windscreen, it would require a costly replacement?
:doh:
IMO, 100000+ mileage cars are a bit of a minefield, although with a low budget, you often don't have much choice.
Check when things usually go on certain models, and make sure that the level of wear and tear is consistant with the displayed mileage.
You want a genuine car that's been looked after and not owned by some yobbo - check the overall condition of the paintwork. If it's scratches everywhere, a scuff here, some dents over there, and every body panel has been painted, I'd steer well clear.
Also avoid cars with chavvy aftermarket fitments. If anything they devalue the car, and if anything indicate that it was owned by.. a chav
. Nice original cars are the way to go.
Regarding the scratches, a steady hand and some touch up paint will protect and keep your eye off the deeper scratches and paint chips. Having said that, don't run some touch up paint along a really long fine scratch, because it will look stupid - try the wax/polish first
The edges of the wheelarches are a nice place for rust, as well as the corners of doors and the places where trim fittings and plastics are fitted to the metal. You want to keep the car free of mud in the wheel arches. Some cars such as some old rovers collected mud at the edge of the wheel arch, this mud held water and caused rusting.
Check when things usually go on certain models, and make sure that the level of wear and tear is consistant with the displayed mileage.
You want a genuine car that's been looked after and not owned by some yobbo - check the overall condition of the paintwork. If it's scratches everywhere, a scuff here, some dents over there, and every body panel has been painted, I'd steer well clear.
Also avoid cars with chavvy aftermarket fitments. If anything they devalue the car, and if anything indicate that it was owned by.. a chav
. Nice original cars are the way to go.Regarding the scratches, a steady hand and some touch up paint will protect and keep your eye off the deeper scratches and paint chips. Having said that, don't run some touch up paint along a really long fine scratch, because it will look stupid - try the wax/polish first
The edges of the wheelarches are a nice place for rust, as well as the corners of doors and the places where trim fittings and plastics are fitted to the metal. You want to keep the car free of mud in the wheel arches. Some cars such as some old rovers collected mud at the edge of the wheel arch, this mud held water and caused rusting.
Last edited by JO53PHS, .
Mileage - try to buy something that's under 50,000 miles. I'm guessing you're going to be looking into the plastic econobox market. There's quite a few low mileage (suprisingly low mileage for the year - 20,000 or so) plastic econoboxes around.
You also need to consider how the car has been used. Don't necessarily be put off by a 3 year old car that's done 70,000 miles (Example: My dad has a 70,000 mile 2007 Saab, and it's absolutely mint condition). Usually the case with cars like this is that they're medium to large saloons that have been up and down the motorway all day long. These can be in better condition than your average 40,000 mile car, because there's not the constant wear and tear of climbing in an out of the car, they haven't been scratched and dented in car parks, and they haven't been driven around town, never getting up to temperature.
Likewise, if a car's done 30,000 miles and it's an absolute dog, don't immediately think it's been clocked. The likelihood is that it's been used by a messy family with some toddlers, who only do short journeys and haven't cleaned their car since they bought it new. The ultimate sign of genuine high mileage is the super shiny steering wheel. Although first check that this isn't silicone spray, which some imbeciles just spray all over the interior, thus making everything greasy and shiny.
The bottom line is, when you come to sell your car, it will be much easier if it is lower mileage.
Number of owners - You don't want a car with 5 owners in the log book. End of. Be careful of the wording of adverts - 2 previous owners isn't 2 owners from new, it's 2 owners + the current one, and then you will be the 4th owner
Main agent dealers - For the love of god do not buy from one of these unless they're offering you some super awesome warranty plan for free. Main agents typically charge several thousand more than smaller traders and private sellers. This rarely equates to a better car or a better level of customer service. They can only charge more because they have the brand name behind them, and people trust them more than other dealers. Even if another dealer may be just as friendly, just as helpful and just as trustworthy.
Scratches - All used cars are going to have scratches and minor marks on them. If you look round a used car as if it's a new one (like many of my dad's customers do), you're going to be dissapointed. And you're also an idiot.
Dogs and Smokers - Unless you are a smoker yourself, don't buy a car that's obviously been used by a smoker. The telltale signs are a strange mortuary-esque smell which is a mixture of cans and cans and cans of air freshener and cigarette smoke. It is near impossible to get the smoke smell out of a car, except by airing it out FOREVER
You also don't really want a car that shows signs of dogs being shoved in the back of it on a regular basis. There is of course the smell of dogs (not quite as bad to remove as cigarette smoke smell), and the scratched windows. If the dogs have scratched some of the heated rear window element off, that's quite annoying.
Service History - You want to make sure that it's been regularly serviced. Don't be put off if it doesn't have the main agent stamps in it. All that tells you is that the previous owner didn't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of pounds on what is a simple job that any garage (or more like anybody) could do. Full manufacturer service history is more important on newer and more expensive cars, but I'm guessing that's not your sort of car/price range?
I suppose i'm looking at this solely from the point of view of having to sell it after a few years of ownership. If you plan to chuck it in the bin after using it, you can ignore full main agent service history (although you still want a car thats been well looked after), and you can ignore the number of owners.
You also need to consider how the car has been used. Don't necessarily be put off by a 3 year old car that's done 70,000 miles (Example: My dad has a 70,000 mile 2007 Saab, and it's absolutely mint condition). Usually the case with cars like this is that they're medium to large saloons that have been up and down the motorway all day long. These can be in better condition than your average 40,000 mile car, because there's not the constant wear and tear of climbing in an out of the car, they haven't been scratched and dented in car parks, and they haven't been driven around town, never getting up to temperature.
Likewise, if a car's done 30,000 miles and it's an absolute dog, don't immediately think it's been clocked. The likelihood is that it's been used by a messy family with some toddlers, who only do short journeys and haven't cleaned their car since they bought it new. The ultimate sign of genuine high mileage is the super shiny steering wheel. Although first check that this isn't silicone spray, which some imbeciles just spray all over the interior, thus making everything greasy and shiny.
The bottom line is, when you come to sell your car, it will be much easier if it is lower mileage.
Number of owners - You don't want a car with 5 owners in the log book. End of. Be careful of the wording of adverts - 2 previous owners isn't 2 owners from new, it's 2 owners + the current one, and then you will be the 4th owner
Main agent dealers - For the love of god do not buy from one of these unless they're offering you some super awesome warranty plan for free. Main agents typically charge several thousand more than smaller traders and private sellers. This rarely equates to a better car or a better level of customer service. They can only charge more because they have the brand name behind them, and people trust them more than other dealers. Even if another dealer may be just as friendly, just as helpful and just as trustworthy.
Scratches - All used cars are going to have scratches and minor marks on them. If you look round a used car as if it's a new one (like many of my dad's customers do), you're going to be dissapointed. And you're also an idiot.
Dogs and Smokers - Unless you are a smoker yourself, don't buy a car that's obviously been used by a smoker. The telltale signs are a strange mortuary-esque smell which is a mixture of cans and cans and cans of air freshener and cigarette smoke. It is near impossible to get the smoke smell out of a car, except by airing it out FOREVER
You also don't really want a car that shows signs of dogs being shoved in the back of it on a regular basis. There is of course the smell of dogs (not quite as bad to remove as cigarette smoke smell), and the scratched windows. If the dogs have scratched some of the heated rear window element off, that's quite annoying.
Service History - You want to make sure that it's been regularly serviced. Don't be put off if it doesn't have the main agent stamps in it. All that tells you is that the previous owner didn't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of pounds on what is a simple job that any garage (or more like anybody) could do. Full manufacturer service history is more important on newer and more expensive cars, but I'm guessing that's not your sort of car/price range?
I suppose i'm looking at this solely from the point of view of having to sell it after a few years of ownership. If you plan to chuck it in the bin after using it, you can ignore full main agent service history (although you still want a car thats been well looked after), and you can ignore the number of owners.
Last edited by JO53PHS, .
LFS Photomode Competition Round 54 Voting: Old School Demo Times
Oh gawd... is it that time already?
I'll do it now
I'll do it now
Although we recommend that you do as many as you can so that you gain more practice of the procedings. Especially the rolling start, which can get quite noobed up at times.
Not that you're a noob or nuffin
Not that you're a noob or nuffin
I will look through the NDR email and do any updates tommorrow afternoon
If they shared accounts, there would be no need to keep locking and unlocking.
Yes you can.. you can assign Steer Left and Steer Right to buttons..
To assign steering directions to the D pad you need to go to Options > Controls and select Mouse / Keyboard steering, then there should be options for Steer Left and Steer Right under "Buttons 1".
I think that if you do this though, you cannot have axis acceleration and braking on the right analogue stick.
Last edited by JO53PHS, .
Yes :doh:
LFS does have unlimited gameplay:
1) You get 3 (?) new unlocks every Friday
2) You shouldn't need to unlock your LFS every time you play it - I haven't unlocked it since I last installed a patch that required an unlock
3) On patches that require unlocks, the devs dish out a few more unlocks anyway
1) You get 3 (?) new unlocks every Friday
2) You shouldn't need to unlock your LFS every time you play it - I haven't unlocked it since I last installed a patch that required an unlock
3) On patches that require unlocks, the devs dish out a few more unlocks anyway
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG