The last thing I would do is buy a Chrysler. The SRT-4 isn't a bad car, I just won't buy one. Will four track tires, a tool box, and the other associated parts fit in a Neon? I understand the depreciation that comes along with a new car, I just care more about the perks of being the original owner.
In the chicane photo that you posted, it shows impact on the LF and RR. At also shows that you are running over the curbing. This matches the raised surface and how the suspension works. Perhaps you should stay off of the curbing. It might result in a slightly slower lap time, but also consider what the damage does to your average times over 10-20-30 laps.
I'm sure there's a fix for the problem, and is likely to be found in you setup and racing line. Ride height, wing, damping, and spring rate. What about sway bar? That will pitch weight to the opposite side and level the car out in turning.
Glad someone does. I'm looking to move on. The past six years have been fun, but I'm gearing up for a car with a warranty. The magic 8-ball shows a Mazdaspeed 3 in my future.
Do we actually know that the car made it all the way to the wall? I don't really wish to see the crash a dozen times, but I think The car never made it to the catch net before the final explosion.
I've been to Englishtown a few times in the past couple years. As I recall, they use a net at the end of the track to cushion the wall. The "track" actually ends shortly past the scoring boards. A lot of what you saw was due to the fact that the initial engine explosion sheared off the body and parachutes. Also, drag cars have very small brakes. I may be wrong, but I don't think they even have front brakes.
There really is no runoff issue at Englishtown. It's just unusual to see a car explode at the end of the track like Scott's did. Still, tragic.
That's pretty much what I have seen as well. They put down good numbers on a dyno, but aren't that great on the strip, or track. However, if you want to drift, go for it. Just stay away from the rest of us with 23 chromosomes.
Eh? The Taurus has had an independent, coil sprung, suspension since it was introduced in 1986. The only V8 that they ever had was in the 96-99 SHO. Even that was a 3.4L, DOHC engine. Block by Ford, Heads designed my Yamaha. The car's weight is right in line with comparably sized cars, foreign and domestic. The lightest were around 3100lbs, the fattest eclipsed 3500 lbs. The light ones were 1989 models sold without options, the pigs were the later ones with a crapload of options. They never did part with the Flintstone braking system, though.
Do you believe in irony? I suppose it depends on the care a car recieves. My interior had ZERO squeakes or rattles when I threw away the interion a couple years ago. It was 13 years old at that point, over a hundred drag passes and a few track events.
Sorry for your Chrysler experience. They're rendezvous with Daimler didn't help much. My family had a 1990 Dodge pickup could have taught a saigon whore a couple new ways to suck.
I won't deny that American cars lack in a 'few' areas. Then again, my parents Nissan isn't exactly an inspiring drive either. I had my own fix for the American car thing with the T.
The engine is Japanese (Yamaha)
Trans is Jap (Mazda)
American quality interior is rotting in a land fill somewhere in Lancaster County
Differential is British (Quaife)
Suspension is a mix of GM, Koni, Ground Control, Eibach
Brakes from PBR (Autralian if memory serves)
Sure, the car is a b*tch to drive on the street. It's quick around a track, unique, and dammit, I built it myself. That's a key thing. I've had trouble finding things that I am happy with. No manufacturer has the ball to create an affordable car that fits my needs. I had to take what I had and make the best out of it. Then again, I think there's something cool about a big 'ol American sedan chasing down more traditional track cars.
Anyway, I really don't have any particular loyalty toward manufacturers or countries. I actually went and looked at a Mazdaspeed 3 today. I really like it and think it would make a better daily driver than the SHO.
That's all for me tonight. I'm really trying not to step on toes here. I guess my point (completely lost at this point, whatever) was that there is another car that the OP might consider. A lot of car for the money, sporty enough to have fun, and inexpensive. I just thought I would give a little historical background (I thought it might draw a bit of attention, and a few took the bait).
ajp71- I'm sorry you had issues with an American car. The Taurus X has nothing to do with the original except for the name. I hope you weren't confused. Any and all comment relating 'sport' and 'Taurus' are only to be made for the SHO. The SHO and regular Taurus models had many, many differences.
I've known several people who made a Ford Taurus as their first car. Most were the 3.0 or 3.8 v6 with auto tranny. I made mine the 220hp, stickshift version. SHO for those in the loop. Cheap insureance, cheap buy-in price, decent on gas. Keep in mind that the SHO was comtetition for the 5 series Bimmer back in the day. When it was introduced, they were near the top of the heap of sports sedans.
A nice SHO would run you $2000. Mid 20s combined mileage. I pay $35 a month insurance. You're out near Pittsburg, right? I know a couple guys out that way that stockpile used parts.
Good luck, and for the love of god, stay away from v6 Mustangs and Camaros. That is, unless you've got a set of tits.
You're going to see stange things when it comes to chassis tuning on an oval. If the car is close to being set up properly, you should only be worried about tire pressures and cross weights. Tire pressure is adjusted to achieve a temperature as close as possible to the manufactures suggested range as measured by a pyrometer across the tread width. Corner weights are adjusted by different means depending on the rulke book. By changing ride heights on opposite corners, you are shifting weight from the right-front to the right-rear tire.
Do you have a link to a rule book? I'd love to take a look. Then I would be able to tell you exactly what adjustments you are likely to encounter. I don't want to read too much into 'sportman' and tell you something contrary to your reality. In my area, we have sportsman modifieds, street stocks, bombers, pro4, outlaw stock, late models, strictly stock, hobby stock, pony stock, and the list goes on. Each one has different rules.
The best thing I can tell you is to spend a few nights in the pits looking at other cars. In general, other racers are glad to help new teams get into the sport.
Look at all the things that teams are doing to modify parts and whatnot. "Sportsman" does mean different things. Do you have a rule book? There is no point in even building a car if you don't know what you are allowed to do or not do. "Circle Track" magazine might help you too.
So, will you be at the All Ford Nationals in Carlsile this weekend? Looks like about a 4 hour car ride from your area. I'll be there with my car if you wanted to chat.
Conform to these standards, and you're gold as far as PA is concerned. In what county do you live?
Thanks Blackbird! At least someone cares enough about state revenues to call me out. I'm not really concerned about a fine since all of my documentation matches the mileage I wish to report.
Depends on the state. In PA, we have state-wide safety inspections. Then, depending on what county you live in, you may or may not have emissions testing. Furthermore, the extent of the inspection depends on the age and yearly mileage of the car. Since I roll my odometer back each year, I am exempt from emissions testing (~$50 savings).
I should add that in Delaware, there is no inspection, except whenever the automobile changes ownership. Believe me, you see some scary stuff while driving through that state.