personally, i started LFS using no tools and guessing at suspension setups.
i got pretty good, but every once in a while i would hit a part of the track and the car would go crazy.
it happened most in the MRT and RAC and i hated driving them.

then i was introduced to bobs thing... project 3 or whatever...
with some common sense and time, the MRT and RAC have become my favorite cars, simply by tuning the dampers.

i really dont understand most of what i am doing here, but a general rule i have established is to tune the front to about 70% of max stiffness, and to tune the rear's FREQUENCY to be slightly higher than the front.
then i make the Front ARB something like 70-90% of spring stiffness
the rears, i make low enough that i have comfortable understeer. this is usually done on KY NAT because it has a good mix of turns.

for tuning the dampers, i initially set the bump damping to be between 80 and 87 percent of critical, and tune the rebound to get the car stable. usually, this means that all the bars for everything are barely visible and green...

as for tires, well, i start off at the stock pressure and usually lower both front and rear pressure until i feel they are heating up too fast.

yeah, i figured as much.
how is mine though?

well since you were slow, i made my own version using yours as a background.


here it goes...
first real skin

lol. thanks

anything yet?

Quote from flymike91 :

is this what you wanted?

that looks delicious...
ill try it out asap


edit:

just looked at it in game, and its a little dark.
oh well.
also, if its not too much trouble, could you work on the front end?
the camaro has 4 headlights, 2 on each side.
firebirds have flip ups.

other than that, it looks great.

just needs t-tops too... i can do that i think. lol

Last edited by Zebediah_S2, Thu 8 Nov 2007, 05:47.

Quote :

This is what I can get working so far:
-Steering lock
-BF1 traction control minimum speed
-Brake force (effects the handbrake, set it to a -ve value for fun)

add to this:
differential settings.

its pretty fun to use negative values or values over 100
negative values bias the slipping wheel with more torque
values higher than 100 send more than 100% torque to the non slipping wheel

Quote :

settings I can't get working:
-ride height
-camber
-toe
-stiffness
-voluntary added mass
-tyre pressure

could anyone find time to make me a third gen (f-body) Camaro IROC-Z skin for the xrg?
i'd like it red, and with a daytona hood if at all possible

car:
http://www.thirdgen.org/tech/i ... rroskj1987camaroirocz.jpg

hood:
http://www.e-bodyparts.com/Ram ... ormance-Hoods/fcah-14.jpg
(the black grilles from the stock hood go into the top of the hood where the indent is.)


thank you

Quote from Gunn :

I don't believe that the problem is with the tyres. The poor handling of the RA seems to be far too severe for just the tyres to be at fault. Other cars in LFS can be pushed quite hard before they lose the rear end. The RA seems to spit the dummy when not being pushed very hard at all. The tyres don't seem to be under too much load before the RA decides it's time to misbehave. The cockpit is nice but the gauges are useless.

I can keep it on the black bit and make respectable times with the RA, but it is a most annoying car to race.

If fish had wheels, this is what they would be like to drive.

the car is pretty easy to drive with the right setup.
i typically run a little toe in on the rear and a little toe out on the front to counteract the understeer that the toe in induces.
it has no rear sway bar, so that isnt causing the problems
its light weight, so excess weight over the rear isnt an issue.
id say that (like the mrt) it simply needs to be tamed with the right setups

Quote from tristancliffe :

My motion ratio isn't fixed. As I have rising rate suspension, the wheel ratio varies from about 2:1 to about 1:1 depending on where the suspension is within it's travel. I can use an 'average' (about 1.4 I think), but it's not 100% ideal.

Unsprung mass - did this the other night. Basically 50lb front and 55lb rear (using proper units).

Braking peaks at about 1.7g with a static tyre diameter of 20.1" front and 21.4" rear. I am trying to work out (from the DL1 datalogger) what the dynamic circumferences are, but there is too much error in the speed/acceleration/rpm data to get it accurately. At times the RPM is too high, at times too low (for a given speed/gear). Been factoring it at about 0.3% increase, but I'm not convinced that that is correct.

Agree about CG height and aero stuff though. I think I'm using about 13" for CG height, because I eyeballed the car with a tape measure, and decided 13" looked about right!

how is your motion ratio not the same all the time?
you must be measuring it wrong or something

as for speed and rpms, if you have an automatic transmission, that would be why it is off.
put it in 1 or low, where you can feel engine braking, and try to get it as good as you can from there.

when i was calculating my rear end gear last year based on speed and rpms, i calculated it to be 3.00
the nearest gm rear end ratio to that was 3.08, which is what i assumed it was.
however, i forgot to account for transmission slippage.
turns out the actual ratio is 2.73, which is about 15% off.

its possible that i have a bad version.

with the uf 1000, i have 1st set at 4.5 and 4th set at 1
with adjustable progressive, anything below 19 gives me an error.

i also cant find the tire torque option.

i cant tell what version i have, but i think its the second one you released

i am using lfs x 10

here are two pics
hilight the thing in red





edit:

all right.
i just downloaded the final version.
everything seems to be ok.
sorry for the confusion.

Last edited by Zebediah_S2, Thu 16 Aug 2007, 03:11.

Quote from Bob Smith :

I'll have a play but some example settings would come in handy. It's not something I've seen before.

it usually happens when the gears are relatively close:
first = 3
fifth = 1
drop = ~ between 4.9 and 9.9

Quote from Bob Smith :

That line is now optional, check out the graph settings to enable it. It should be noted the red line does not take either weight transfer or downforce into account, so isn't at all accurate (hence it is off by default).

i cant figure out how to turn it on tho...
i am slow.
the "show front/rear vertical tire loads doesnt do it, and thats the only thing relating to tires in the options menu

Quote from Bob Smith :

Please post the setup here and I will have a look.

i dont know if it matters, but both were made while in multiplayer.
they were intended for use in LTC servers so they arent too important
cant figure out whats going on.


if i find any more that dont work, i will upload them.






on another note, occasionally, when autospacing gears, i get an overflow error.
i think its because the gears are too close together.

another thing is that my "tire grip" line has disappeared from the gear analyzer screen.
i am talking about the red line that was so useful for powerful FWD cars (UFR) to prevent me from frying the tires all day long

dont know if this has been said before, but when i try to open certain XRG setups, it gives me a runtime error.

Quote :

Run-time error '383':
'Text' property is read-only

not sure what it means.
it will let me open any other setups.
just not these certain ones.

i agree that the easiest way would be to mod the pit limiter value, then alt+tab out of the game with the gas pedal pressed, let off the pedal, then alt+tab back into the game and the gas pedal will be pressed until you press it again.

if you have an actual pedal, you might be able to use the alt+tab method to hold a specific throttle opening, which would keep your speed close to the desired speed.

Quote from tolkien :

does anyone have a program (or something?) so that i can see them (instead of the randomly placed "windows can't make a preview of this file" screen?

~tolkien

well you could move them from the folder where you found them to your skins DDS folder and preview them in-game.
thats what i usually do.

along with ctrl c, ctrl v, and undo, the only thing i think it really needs is the ability to draw circles.

forget about spline style photoshop lines, if we had circles, we could make our own.

thanks for the great program

it would be a good idea, but i think that the dirt grip modeling needs to be addressed.
in my experience, cars seem entirely too free on dirt, like there is no real path

i really like the ability to start the race manually
it really adds a lot to the realism
the only thing i want now is a way to warm up the tires before a drag race, or have them automatically warmed to prime temps

does anybody else agree?

personally, i think that it would be nice to have a 6-8 mile straight followed by something very challenging.
of course there would have to be a decreasing radius turn at the end.
the kind where you can start it at 200mph and be ok, but you have to slow to like 50 before the end of the turn.

i think its a good idea

Quote from Hankstar :

An NA V8 vs turbo 4 or 6 could be a great match. After all, when I was a nipper long before V8 Supercars, you had the Aust Touring Car Championship which featured all manner of machines. There were Beemers, RX7s, V8 Commodores & Falcons, Jag XJSs all after each other, then in '89 they were joined by the mad-as R32 Skyline - which, ironically, was so good it was subsequently banned, which (sadly, some might say) paved the way for the two-cab contest we currently enjoy

However it happens, the lack of a stonking great V8 in LFS really needs to be addressed

agreed and + 10,000

my favorite cars are the lx4 and lx6. they are great in their own respect, but there needs to be a gtr version.
i would like to see an lx8 with a 4.3L high revving V8 and downforce.
the model is actually very nice. i really like the rear wing
the front wing is a bit snowplowish, but it is growing on me the more i look at it.

wings or no wings, we need a V8.

that and a diesel

Quote from Bob Smith :

For all sliders, or just a few in particular? There's little room left in the interface to add more text boxes, between dragging the slider and using the scroll wheel I can usually get to any specific value pretty quick, an exception being gearing where there are 7000 different settings per slider, more than any other. If you could let me know which would benefit from it the most, I'll see if I can squeeze them in.

i was actually thinking about using something like in lfs
left click an arrow, value changes by .1, 1, or whatever
right click an arrow, value changes by 1, 10. whatever ten times the left click amount is.
right click the slider and you input a value.

that is a really good system. you might try fiddling with it some instead of adding more text boxes and such.

otherwise, great program.
looking foreword to figuring out how it works

how do you go that fast?
the best i can do is 7.30

do i need a wheel and pedals, cause i'm a button pusher right now

for some reason i cant upload the file, but i'll try again later.

sorry if this is a dumb question, but is there a way to add or delete vertices?

i see a lot of XRT rims with split spokes, but i thought the GTI was the only one to have split spokes.


edit:
figured it out.

Last edited by Zebediah_S2, Mon 19 Mar 2007, 16:02.

for all the players out there...

i got bored and made this in bespoke.