WTF!?!?!?!?!?!?!
haha
no thats my other girlfriend
haha
no thats my other girlfriend
in order:
me in grey
her
us
me in grey
her
us
stunt driving trainer
since i couldnt find a layout like this i made one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... ;feature=player_embedded#
anyway, start out and go through the slaloms
turn right
ahead, is a parking space.
reverse 180 and back in.
next, U-turn and pull foreward into next spot.
then reverse until blue tires and reverse spin (i go clockwise if looked at from above)
next, drive to parallel parking spot and handbrake into spot by turning right
come out of spot ( i usually reverse, but its up to you) and go over ramps into barriers on other end of track
90* turn into slalom course and another parallel parking spot.
pull foreward through cones, 90* turn and go to finish.
i built the course using xrg, but xrt would probably work well. if you are good with FWD, try that too.
good luck & have fun
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... ;feature=player_embedded#
anyway, start out and go through the slaloms
turn right
ahead, is a parking space.
reverse 180 and back in.
next, U-turn and pull foreward into next spot.
then reverse until blue tires and reverse spin (i go clockwise if looked at from above)
next, drive to parallel parking spot and handbrake into spot by turning right
come out of spot ( i usually reverse, but its up to you) and go over ramps into barriers on other end of track
90* turn into slalom course and another parallel parking spot.
pull foreward through cones, 90* turn and go to finish.
i built the course using xrg, but xrt would probably work well. if you are good with FWD, try that too.
good luck & have fun
the thing is, we would all end up using the coldest temps and softest tires for the best possible grip. i have no trouble keeping the tires in the green with R4 tires and road tires. with R2 and R1, i can keep them green for a few laps (8 or so depending on track length) then they start heating up too much.
if i am consistant, they get cooler again (due to having less grip and me being forced to slow down)
+1 for the idea, but in practice, it would be better if the temperature were chosen at random and we had to adjust the tires in the settings menu
if i am consistant, they get cooler again (due to having less grip and me being forced to slow down)
+1 for the idea, but in practice, it would be better if the temperature were chosen at random and we had to adjust the tires in the settings menu
is it possible to make the key to swap shift maps something other than scroll lock?
my keyboard is for some reason lacking a scroll lock key...
they put one of those "function" keys where it should be
my keyboard is for some reason lacking a scroll lock key...
they put one of those "function" keys where it should be
xrg headlights
i am trying to make a simple halogen sealed beam headlight for the xrg and i am running into issues.
if i leave it "square" and paste it on, it looks bugeyed in-game
if i try and change the perspective a little, it looks good, but only from straight in front.
i know there is a way to do it...
if someone would either
a) make me a simple sealed beam halogen light so i can achieve this effect:
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts. ... 92CamaroBILLETGRILLE1.jpg
b) give me a step by step on how to do it.
i am trying to come up with a thirdgen camaro skin.
ive tried before. if you do some searches you will find my previous attempts but i gave up after a while
something re motivated me and i am starting over
this is what i have come up with so far
if i leave it "square" and paste it on, it looks bugeyed in-game
if i try and change the perspective a little, it looks good, but only from straight in front.
i know there is a way to do it...
if someone would either
a) make me a simple sealed beam halogen light so i can achieve this effect:
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts. ... 92CamaroBILLETGRILLE1.jpg
b) give me a step by step on how to do it.
i am trying to come up with a thirdgen camaro skin.
ive tried before. if you do some searches you will find my previous attempts but i gave up after a while
something re motivated me and i am starting over
this is what i have come up with so far
Last edited by Zebediah_S2, .
looks terrible except for the grill...
i guess its just not my style
either way, good work i guess
i guess its just not my style
either way, good work i guess
thats an amazing idea.
i love it!
i use a game pad, but your pedals are a cool idea.
my main gripe is the lack of clutch control i have... its either on or off, which makes it hard to launch the fxr and xrr without bogging. if the turbo isnt spooled, it stalls. if the turbo is fully spooled, it spins out.
so i end up with a ridiculously short first gear, and a huge drop to get to second.
i may be looking into making something like that.
how did you calibrate it in LFS?
what issues did you have?
could it be made to plug into a USB port?
i love it!
i use a game pad, but your pedals are a cool idea.
my main gripe is the lack of clutch control i have... its either on or off, which makes it hard to launch the fxr and xrr without bogging. if the turbo isnt spooled, it stalls. if the turbo is fully spooled, it spins out.
so i end up with a ridiculously short first gear, and a huge drop to get to second.
i may be looking into making something like that.
how did you calibrate it in LFS?
what issues did you have?
could it be made to plug into a USB port?
you make a valid point.
in that case, the roll center is just about at ground level.
however the CG is approximately at the midpoint of the body, slightly lower.
this gives you a HUGE roll moment, or, the distance between the CG and the RC.
the bigger this is, the more the car rolls over in turns.
if the RC was say, at the midpoint of the front tires, the moment would be reduced by half.
the only way to accomplish this is to raise the suspension.
this however also raises the CG and you end up with a circle.
granted the RC goes up faster than the CG, but you also get to a point of diminishing returns, not to mention that it just looks plain ODD to have a 4X4 stance in a car meant for racing.
i never actually did the calcs to figure out where the RC was in the game, i guess i mis-judged based on the calcs i have done before.
as you can see, the angle of the a-arms has a profound effect on the roll center.
in a strut suspension, you only get camber gain when the arms are pointed down.
when the arms are level, the outer one moves upwards as the car rolls over onto it.
however to get the car to sit right in the game, the arms are usually angled upwards slightly
in that case, the roll center is just about at ground level.
however the CG is approximately at the midpoint of the body, slightly lower.
this gives you a HUGE roll moment, or, the distance between the CG and the RC.
the bigger this is, the more the car rolls over in turns.
if the RC was say, at the midpoint of the front tires, the moment would be reduced by half.
the only way to accomplish this is to raise the suspension.
this however also raises the CG and you end up with a circle.
granted the RC goes up faster than the CG, but you also get to a point of diminishing returns, not to mention that it just looks plain ODD to have a 4X4 stance in a car meant for racing.
i never actually did the calcs to figure out where the RC was in the game, i guess i mis-judged based on the calcs i have done before.
as you can see, the angle of the a-arms has a profound effect on the roll center.
in a strut suspension, you only get camber gain when the arms are pointed down.
when the arms are level, the outer one moves upwards as the car rolls over onto it.
however to get the car to sit right in the game, the arms are usually angled upwards slightly
not having upper arms, the roll center on a strut suspension needs to be controlled with huge bars or you end up with funny handling...
of course most cars that have front strut suspension also have live rear axles, not strut rear as well...
in a car with struts on both ends, its not as big a deal, but especially when you have a torque arm rear suspension where the roll center is FIXED at the midpoint of the panhard rod (usually 13-16" off the ground), combined with a strut front where the roll center is usually 1-2" from the ground, you can get some really wacky handling characteristics.
with a SLA or simple wishbone suspension you can put the roll center nearly anywhere you want it so the car will handle however you want. if you have the ability to adjust the spindles, this becomes even more true
[rant]
one thing LFS needs IMO is the ability to do some suspension modifications.
changing the spring rates is all fine and dandy, and the fact that we have weight jackers at each corner is great as well, but in any racing catalog you pick up, there are all kinds of spindles you can choose from to get whatever balljoint height you want. this in turn lets you pick your ride height and roll center height independently.
currently, if the RC is at a reasonable level, the cars look like 4X4's, and if the cars look like they are at a good height, the RC is 2 feet underground, requiring massive roll bars to compensate.
in a real street car, the roll bars are very very flimsy but there is still not much body roll due to having properly engineered suspensions.
LFS is a great physics engine and amazing game, but its still got a long way to go before its a great simulator, and thats why people are always asking for more cars IMO, because the cars we have dont handle right.
[/rant]
i will say that my favorite car to drive in LFS is the XRG
its got enough power to be fun and is light enough to be nimble.
i have the suspension almost perfected, but the car needs bars that are way too big to be realistic.
if it were real life, i'd put 2" drop spindles on it front and rear, then use longer springs to bring the ride height up 1.75" so i would end up with a 0.25" drop
this would put the RC much closer to where it should be, and mean that i could use smaller bars for more grip and a better ride.
it would also give a better camber curve, but lets not get in to that
oh, and to answer your question in fewer words,
in a strut suspension the roll center is mainly dependent on the lower a-arm angle.
the strut inclination angle and steering axis angle also come in to effect, but the major player is the lower a-arm.
if the a-arm is horizontal, the roll center is way underground. the problem is that putting the arms horizontal gives the correct ride height, so you end up with a connundrum
Last edited by Zebediah_S2, .
Reason : i have ADD
that is the single WORST suggestion i have ever heard
look, if your server wants 36* max steering angle, then put a check in the insim...
its THAT EASY
if you want it limited to 9* so be it... put a check in the insim.
if you want it unlimited, dont put a check in.
i dont understand why this is so complicated for you to understand.
HAH!
i was right about those green lines then.
the thing is, for a strut suspension, the roll center is actually a very important part of the tuning, more so than a SLA or double wishbone type suspension.
is there any way this can be added to VHPA bob?
i was right about those green lines then.
the thing is, for a strut suspension, the roll center is actually a very important part of the tuning, more so than a SLA or double wishbone type suspension.
is there any way this can be added to VHPA bob?
you know, this discussion really irritates me because so many people are missing the point altogether...
if drifters want 45* then why not give it to them... its a simple matter of changing a value and saving in the source code.
as for those who dont want it, dont use it...
simple as that.
FYI, i typically use 17* of steering lock on my "racing" sets.
i also set wheel correction to as low a value as possible for a more linear feel.
having 45 50 60* of max lock would not affect me at all because my racing sets already are set to less than that.
as for my drift sets, it would be a welcome addition for a drifter that lacks finesse.
it would make for a lot less spinning out and accidentally going in too deep with no hope of saving it
if drifters want 45* then why not give it to them... its a simple matter of changing a value and saving in the source code.
as for those who dont want it, dont use it...
simple as that.
FYI, i typically use 17* of steering lock on my "racing" sets.
i also set wheel correction to as low a value as possible for a more linear feel.
having 45 50 60* of max lock would not affect me at all because my racing sets already are set to less than that.
as for my drift sets, it would be a welcome addition for a drifter that lacks finesse.
it would make for a lot less spinning out and accidentally going in too deep with no hope of saving it
roll center and CG
hopefully this isnt something that is often suggested but i think it would be really nice to have a roll center point and CG point in the suspension diagram in the garage view.
i think it would really help with tuning and tweaking the suspension for specific uses, rather than the trial and error method i currently use.
bobs VHPA helps a lot in this aspect, but still, more info is needed, at LEAST on the gtr cars.
hopefully this isnt something that is too hard to accomplish
i think it would really help with tuning and tweaking the suspension for specific uses, rather than the trial and error method i currently use.
bobs VHPA helps a lot in this aspect, but still, more info is needed, at LEAST on the gtr cars.
hopefully this isnt something that is too hard to accomplish
tis a good mod, but i have a suggestion.
if its possible to read the max rpms allowed in a car, IE redline rpm, you should consider making the shift rpms a function of the max rpm.
for example, the lx6 redlines much higher than the uf1.
generally speaking, 1/3 of redline is a good place to shift if you are simply driving easy, 1/2 if you are gettin on it a little, and full redline if its floored.
i dont know if its possible to read this info from the game but if so i think it would make it much more realistic rather than having to change the info for each car you drive...
but all this aside, i commend you on a great program...
its a lot of fun for cruising
if its possible to read the max rpms allowed in a car, IE redline rpm, you should consider making the shift rpms a function of the max rpm.
for example, the lx6 redlines much higher than the uf1.
generally speaking, 1/3 of redline is a good place to shift if you are simply driving easy, 1/2 if you are gettin on it a little, and full redline if its floored.
i dont know if its possible to read this info from the game but if so i think it would make it much more realistic rather than having to change the info for each car you drive...
but all this aside, i commend you on a great program...
its a lot of fun for cruising
thats odd... ive tried multiple controllers before and one always takes precedence. usually the one that was plugged in first for me
one of your pedals will take precedence over the others.
why do you need two pedal sets? could a controller pad possibly accomplish the task?
why do you need two pedal sets? could a controller pad possibly accomplish the task?
one thing i did try was to decrease the "wheel turn compensation" to 40% from 90% and it feels a lot better but not quite right.
ive found that for me, the car feels the best when you use very low ARB rates and stiff springs.
as for shocks, i use bobs setup tool to set the shocks so that the car is completely neutral, then i tune in a hint of oversteer on entry and understeer on exit.
i dont really like having my rear bars too strong because especially with no downforce, i end up driving too conservatively to keep the car pointed straight
any other ideas?
ive found that for me, the car feels the best when you use very low ARB rates and stiff springs.
as for shocks, i use bobs setup tool to set the shocks so that the car is completely neutral, then i tune in a hint of oversteer on entry and understeer on exit.
i dont really like having my rear bars too strong because especially with no downforce, i end up driving too conservatively to keep the car pointed straight
any other ideas?
a quest for better turn in
ive noticed that with the latest patch of LFS, turn in seems to be dulled a lot on the road tire'd cars...
is this something that i can fix with a proper setup or is it something that was corrected in the latest physics?
ive tried increasing rear bar stiffnes, increasing front toe out, decreasing bound stiffness of front shocks, increasing front tire pressure and rear tire pressure...
basically, ive tried everything i can think of and i still cant get that snappy feeling i can get with the older patches (which i still have all of BTW so i can compare lol)
any ideas or setups i can try
upload your sets for me to try if you want.
to be clear, i can make a setup that oversteers like crazy if i want, thats not what i am after.
i want a neutral setup that has snappy feeling steering characteristics.
lets start with the LX4 i guess
is this something that i can fix with a proper setup or is it something that was corrected in the latest physics?
ive tried increasing rear bar stiffnes, increasing front toe out, decreasing bound stiffness of front shocks, increasing front tire pressure and rear tire pressure...
basically, ive tried everything i can think of and i still cant get that snappy feeling i can get with the older patches (which i still have all of BTW so i can compare lol)
any ideas or setups i can try
upload your sets for me to try if you want.
to be clear, i can make a setup that oversteers like crazy if i want, thats not what i am after.
i want a neutral setup that has snappy feeling steering characteristics.
lets start with the LX4 i guess
just a guess, but i was thinking that it was for instant center of some kind
if you look at a car with trailing arms (uf1 for example) they are always parallel, which makes sense because the wheels move only straight up and down.
now that i think about it, i think that the lines are tangent to the curve the suspension will take throughout its travel.
draw a perpindicular line to each one and thats your IC
if you look at a car with trailing arms (uf1 for example) they are always parallel, which makes sense because the wheels move only straight up and down.
now that i think about it, i think that the lines are tangent to the curve the suspension will take throughout its travel.
draw a perpindicular line to each one and thats your IC
tristan, do you have to be such a, well, jerk?
yes, if you have a single seat race car where you have a more complex suspension than lower a arms and struts, then you adjust the suspension differently.
i have an 'american' car (as you put it) so that is the method i am familiar with.
your average joe should not go around thinking that its ok to preload the suspension so that there is no spring deflection at normal loading.
this was something that "lowriders" used to do back before air springs were affordable. thats why they bounce all over the road.
(they would remove the shock, put a long bolt through the spring and torque a lawnmower blade or similar down so that it would compress the suspension.)
in F1 and that type of racing, the tires do a lot of absorbing shocks.
besides, there arent pot holes on your typical lemans track.
oh, and if i remember correctly, the motion ratio for my front suspension is around 1.4-1.6 i think
yes, if you have a single seat race car where you have a more complex suspension than lower a arms and struts, then you adjust the suspension differently.
i have an 'american' car (as you put it) so that is the method i am familiar with.
your average joe should not go around thinking that its ok to preload the suspension so that there is no spring deflection at normal loading.
this was something that "lowriders" used to do back before air springs were affordable. thats why they bounce all over the road.
(they would remove the shock, put a long bolt through the spring and torque a lawnmower blade or similar down so that it would compress the suspension.)
in F1 and that type of racing, the tires do a lot of absorbing shocks.
besides, there arent pot holes on your typical lemans track.
oh, and if i remember correctly, the motion ratio for my front suspension is around 1.4-1.6 i think
meh, ive seen worse lol.
sorry bout that.
sorry bout that.
oh, and tristan you are right.
if a 100lb/in spring is preloaded (compressed by the suspension) one inch, and an 80 lb weight is applied, then the spring does not compress at all.
in a preloaded car suspension, or bike for that matter, you always want to have enough weight to at least compress the suspension a little bit with the cars weight.
if you have a situation like the 80 lb weight described above, then the car has essentially no suspension for a while then all the sudden bam, it compresses, which makes for very unpredictable handling, and is not a good thing.
if a 100lb/in spring is preloaded (compressed by the suspension) one inch, and an 80 lb weight is applied, then the spring does not compress at all.
in a preloaded car suspension, or bike for that matter, you always want to have enough weight to at least compress the suspension a little bit with the cars weight.
if you have a situation like the 80 lb weight described above, then the car has essentially no suspension for a while then all the sudden bam, it compresses, which makes for very unpredictable handling, and is not a good thing.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG