Quote from tristancliffe :

Use anything really. You won't get much benefit from high quality fuel. However, do try Optimax (or BP Ultimate, or even Tesco99) for a bit, because you might find that your cost/mile goes DOWN as you get more miles to a tankful. In which case only a numpty would use supermarket 'fuel'.

agreed, the thing about quality fuel is its not really designed to give u extra power, its designed to allow more agressive tunes, which leads to more power obviously. if ur getting big gains from high octane fuel in an average car, then ur tune is off or there is an issue with ur car. average cars are tuned for average fuel.

Quote from ajp71 :

What's the point? You are driving a cheap mass produced Malaysian car, why on earth do you want to debadge and modify it simply to increase your street cred? If you want to turn it into a cheap and cheerful road rally/trackday car then go for it but you should be starting with putting some decent (not necessarily high performance) tyres on it getting the brakes up to a high standard and putting full harnesses in, after which I'd precede to strip the car somewhat (but do not remove the headlining/all the trim unless you really want a proper competition car). If you've done all that then maybe consider strut braces a bigger anti roll bar and maybe some better quality dampers (do not start your suspension modifications by lowering the thing). If you're not going to be driving the car at the limit (which by the sounds of it given your economy concerns you're not) then do not bother trying to make performance modifications.

If it doesn't feel great to drive, does scary stuff under braking or it suffers from vibrations and you've checked the wheel bearings then a new set of tyres will make a huge difference, they're very expensive, don't expect to get much change from £200 on a car like yours with basic quality tyres (say a set of Eco Continentals), however no amount of modification is going to help if your beautifully refined chassis can't connect with the ground.

I've done the following to mine and had a good reason for each, none were senselessly bolting stuff on to it because I could.

Fire extinguisher (self-explanatory)

Rev counter - felt I needed one with trashing the thing everywhere, bit of a luxury.

agreed with everything here.

do some research into ur car, there might be a fairly basic way to upgrade brakes, usually u can put brakes from a larger car on, then a pad like the bendix ultimate and ur done with brakes.

handling wise, find out the standard spring rates, work from their rates, and go a bit harder and maybe modify the rates to balance the car more for hard driving. once uve got the spring rate, get some dampers valved to suit, bilsteins are great, durable, relatively cheap, and bloody good performers. then as mentioned, adjustable sway bars.

also depending on ur budget replace all rubber bushing in ur suspension, it will be rooted, and rubber is shit anyway. polyurethane is the way to go, if u can afford, go some adjustable arms, rose jointed is the more common, but personally id be looking for some adjustable arms with urethane bushing.

a good race seat, dont bother with cheap shit, ur better off with some good 2nd hand seats, i picked up a fixed back sparco rev with low rails for AU$300, had a few tears etc but who gives a shit tbh.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN2443.jpg

stickers give me extra 20hp (seat came out of a competition car and cbf taking them off lol)

harness etc etc (even though i dont have one in that pic)

as mentioned, tyres are everything, contis are a good tyre, im running some on the front atm (contisport contact II's) and they are decent, but ive always found that the sidewalls are quite soft with contis, even the contisports, im a big fan of dunlops and bridgestones.

and yep, a decent tacho if it doesnt have one standard, but none of this wanky monster tacho in the window shit. u wanna see exactly what rpm ur doing.

have you crashed it yet?

Quote from vrooom :

have you crashed it yet?

He did, more than once. He's a bad driver afterall. Everything happend when he was on his way to his girlfriend.

Thanks...

I sort of crashed (sort of parked it on an embankment to avoid a crash) once.

Quote from Jakg :

Thanks...

I sort of crashed (sort of parked it on an embankment to avoid a crash) once.

Dude, you made more crashes than the average people do in a year.

if theirs one thing i can say...


Theirs no replacement for displacement...


concidered the 1.8 gsr engine... maybe 2.0 evo ?

old engines ofcourse, we're not all made of money !

I'd rather have a 2.0 S2000 engine than any 5.7L V8, irrespective of power of said V8, tyvm.

Unless you want to do 12mpg with 250bhp as you get standard.

(Kinda off topic but yah, you see my point! )

Maybe the first thing you could do is get a proper driving course so you dont crash every week or so then you might think about making your car ricier.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I'd rather have a 2.0 S2000 engine than any 5.7L V8, irrespective of power of said V8, tyvm.

Unless you want to do 12mpg with 250bhp as you get standard.

The Corvette C6 has a 6.2L engine with 430HP and it gets 15mpg city and 26mpg highway. The F20C powered S2000 had 240HP, and got 18mpg city and 23mpg highway....

Hah, try getting the figures from that V8.

But any sources for the S2000 figures? I see 28.2 on this website.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Hah, try getting the figures from that V8.

But any sources for the S2000 figures? I see 28.2 on this website.

I got both the figures from the figures tested by the US government.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg ... jsp?column=2&id=24172

It also shows the reported figures that people have uploaded.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I'd rather have a 2.0 S2000 engine than any 5.7L V8, irrespective of power of said V8, tyvm.

Unless you want to do 12mpg with 250bhp as you get standard.

(Kinda off topic but yah, you see my point! )

The noise makes it all worthwhile.

Any you can supercharge it very easily

Quote from pearcy_2k7 :

Any you can supercharge it very easily

How is a Honda F20C engine any more easily supercharged then a GM LS3 engine?

Note: I am NOT saying the LS3 is any easier to supercharge then an F20C, either.

Quote from theirishnoob :

if theirs one thing i can say...


Theirs no replacement for displacement...


concidered the 1.8 gsr engine... maybe 2.0 evo ?

old engines ofcourse, we're not all made of money !

So... you think 2 litres is large displacement?

Haha the Europeans with their big blocks 4cylindre 1.8l. Come to the other side of the pound we got LSXs and Caterpillar. THAT is torque.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... nWEr8&feature=related

Quote from Riders Motion :

Haha the Europeans with their big blocks 4cylindre 1.8l. Come to the other side of the pound we got LSXs and Caterpillar. THAT is torque.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... nWEr8&feature=related

The LSX is not a big block. Nor is it a production car engine. Also, how is Caterpillar relevant to this discussion?

Quote from wheel4hummer :

The LSX is not a big block. Nor is it a production car engine. Also, how is Caterpillar relevant to this discussion?

I just tought some of you (theirishnoob) that 2.0l isnt exactly 'big displacement' and anyway a LSX do have more torque than anything else mentionned in this thread.

Quote from theirishnoob :

if theirs one thing i can say...


Theirs no replacement for displacement...


concidered the 1.8 gsr engine... maybe 2.0 evo ?

old engines ofcourse, we're not all made of money !

Engine Swap = Out of the question insurance wise.

Get some performance tyres (i have toyo Proxes PX4, cost me about $145 a corner for 205/50/R15)

A K&N filter, one that fits in the stock position is good, if u have CAI, it retains it, less noticable to police etc, plus u can re use it with the cleaning kit.

Thats pretty much the cheapest stuff i can think of..run better fuel in it always helps..

Maybe some shockproof gear oil *shrug*

Sway bars are also a reasonably cheap option, at about $150 an end, if you fit them yourself..

Is there a performance model that has a strut brace? or other parts you can pilfer cheaply?

Also, maybe some better brake and clutch fluid, dot4 or higher, better pads help with pedal feel, and a bit with fade...

Quote from senn :

Get some performance tyres (i have toyo Proxes PX4, cost me about $145 a corner for 205/50/R15)

A K&N filter, one that fits in the stock position is good, if u have CAI, it retains it, less noticable to police etc, plus u can re use it with the cleaning kit.

Thats pretty much the cheapest stuff i can think of..run better fuel in it always helps..

Maybe some shockproof gear oil *shrug*

Sway bars are also a reasonably cheap option, at about $150 an end, if you fit them yourself..

Is there a performance model that has a strut brace? or other parts you can pilfer cheaply?

Also, maybe some better brake and clutch fluid, dot4 or higher, better pads help with pedal feel, and a bit with fade...

The thread title is "Let's Rice Ma Car", not "Let's Race-Prep Ma Car". If you're looking for cheap rice, stick a bigger spoiler, plastic window tints and 18" alloys on it. Also drill a few holes into the backbox for extra effect. Job done, insurance intact, for the sum of about £500 /thread

Popping a K&N on aint race prepping anything. Unless racing engines run better with excessive heatsoak.

But it isn't rice as such. Ricing isn't supposed to make sense or enhance performance (purposefully at least). Besides, you could buy a nice shiny hole saw for half the price of an air filter, drill a few holes through the exhaust system, and "feel" like you're going faster

Nobody in racing cars about how they run in heatsoak conditions (except maybe F1) because everything is kept cool by the car moving. Heatsoak is important in road cars that sit in traffic jams getting hot, but not in race cars.

And nobody in racing using a K&N road filter available off the shelf - they are too restrictive for racing. Thus making them the domain of people trying to tune their cars up unsuccessfully = rice!