boston acoustics se50 5.25" for front doors



boston acoustics se55 5.25" for rear deck



Kenwood KDC-X395



bmw wire harness adapter



patch cable



Sound Ordnance M4075 75W x 4 Car Amplifier



kicker wiring kit for an 8 gauge amp




this is all going to be installed with what i already have;

a pair of 12" CVR kicker sub's



amp for those (Kenwood Kac-9105D)



and wiring kit for that (4 gauge for this one, dont worry guys )




biggest purchase yet, but because my car has the premium dsp radio, if i replace one thing, everything needs to be replaced...i wanted sub's and ipod control with a clean sound; with ipod control comes a new head unit, which comes with a new amp, which comes with new speakers. the result is all of this stuff.

you'll want to tune that setup once installed. turn all EQs off and adjust the sub so that it's not over powering the rest of the speakers. then turn the volume up to a level you'll most likely be using the system at. this will make sure that the speakers are tuned to your preferred level. then when you start adding EQ and bass boost, you should have a much richer sound.

http://cityout.lt/userfiles/im ... 98_12059878_2801194_n.jpg

Didn't eat it tho...

knowing how i am with eq settings, i will most likely be playing with it every song, and music type i listen to.

but definately noted, but i am nowhere near that step, i need to tear out everything out of my car first.

Quote from logitekg25 :

knowing how i am with eq settings, i will most likely be playing with it every song, and music type i listen to.

but definately noted, but i am nowhere near that step, i need to tear out everything out of my car first.

very easy,that car has the easyest doorpanels on planet.just watch the front doors,it has a small long black screw behind the door vent flap

rear deck will be a #$^# but worth it...can i re-use the wires for the speakers? i plan on ripping them out, but if i can get away with not doing that it would be far easier..actually, what wires can i re-use in general...

nah its easy,putting the seat back will be retarded yes well if i remember correctly the wire size is 0.3 or 0.5 so u should run bigger wires than that imo
I wouldnt rip anything out,just run new wires. this way u can always go back to stock,when u sell car or etc.

makes sense, and yeah i was following an e39 guide to getting the seat out, but it turned out to be an e38 guide...i just walked away :banghead

how long do you think this will take, im gutting it before the stuff arrives so i can try to install it not long after it gets here

Quote from logitekg25 :

makes sense, and yeah i was following an e39 guide to getting the seat out, but it turned out to be an e38 guide...i just walked away :banghead

how long do you think this will take, im gutting it before the stuff arrives so i can try to install it not long after it gets here

Front doors are less than a minute each,rear deck about 15 minutes,i guess u will run wires under the door sills(easy with those they break easy) thats about 5 minutes.Putting it back,double everything

and replacing everything head-unit related, i have the dsp, so it ALL has to go, replacing and wiring the new amp, installing the sub amp, and subs, running wires for those etc.

will i have problems with the alternator with those amps? if you want to take this to pm so this thread doesnt get too spammed, it may be for the best.

Quote from jamesc :

Seasonic SS-1000XP

lol, first time I'm seeing a decent PSU in this thread :3

Quote from logitekg25 :

and replacing everything head-unit related, i have the dsp, so it ALL has to go, replacing and wiring the new amp, installing the sub amp, and subs, running wires for those etc.

will i have problems with the alternator with those amps? if you want to take this to pm so this thread doesnt get too spammed, it may be for the best.

i dont know much about audio stuff,but u will need a capacitor for sure,your alternator is a 120 amp and the battery is 80. i would get a least 1 farad capacitor.

Don't get a capacitor, you wont need one.

I've got a (theoretical RMS) of 1.8kW of amplification & a 110A alt and all is fine (although obviously a more powerful alt would help!)

if u put a powerful sound system why would u want to put stress on the battery and alternator? capacitors are cheap anyway.

A capacitor doesn't reduce stress on the battery or alternator - that power still has to come from somewhere.

What about a flux capacitor?

Quote from e2mustang :

if u put a powerful sound system why would u want to put stress on the battery and alternator? capacitors are cheap anyway.

A capacitor only holds the charge for a split second, so when the bass hits it pulls its initial power from the capacitor, then the capacitor has to pull the rest from the battery anyway. So its pointless in most situations.

Read this to see why it wouldn't be useful http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=54856

Quote from Migz :

A capacitor only holds the charge for a split second, so when the bass hits it pulls its initial power from the capacitor, then the capacitor has to pull the rest from the battery anyway. So its pointless in most situations.

Read this to see why it wouldn't be useful http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=54856

Indeed, plus the disco headlight effect you get in a car with big bass at night always makes me smile

Quote from Jakg :

A capacitor doesn't reduce stress on the battery or alternator - that power still has to come from somewhere.

An E39 has enough drain problems on the battery alone,and the alternators fail left and right.i do 1 or 2 almost every day.So whereever he can save some energy go for it.my opinion as a bmw tech.

i honestly dont even know where to start looking for one of those...is it car specific? or load specific?

no its generic,but these guys say u dont need it,i dont have one,but mine is nothing crazy.2x200W 12 inch

Quote from e2mustang :

An E39 has enough drain problems on the battery alone,and the alternators fail left and right.i do 1 or 2 almost every day.So whereever he can save some energy go for it.my opinion as a bmw tech.

a capacitor being lossy can only increse the overall stress on the alternator

Quote from e2mustang :

An E39 has enough drain problems on the battery alone,and the alternators fail left and right.i do 1 or 2 almost every day.So whereever he can save some energy go for it.my opinion as a bmw tech.

How can it reduce the stress on the alternator?

Think about it - a cap can hold very *very* little power. As soon as it's discharged, it'll have to suck that power up from the alt anyway.

As Migz said, it will smooth the load on the battery and alternator by providing a small reservoir of current. It shouldn't really be needed as the battery is huge capacitor and should be able to supply more than enough current but thats not the way things work out in the real world :/ A lot of load changes (ie. flashing headlights) will wreck some alternators quickly so even if you don't need capacitors it would be fairly cheap insurance to fit them.

This is what you should do instead of a capacitor
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.c ... to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/

Quote :

The Big III is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big III”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.