Maybe this why it not go: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EBfxjSFAxQ
Oil looks like it ran down after cam cover was removed, tip looks dry in that photo... suspiciously dry. How did it come to a stop?
Went out to a club last night to see tommyknocker, interesting night
the club is located in the middle of perth city(bulk cops EVERYWHERE along the club strip)
4am rolls around and everywhere dies down a little bit...group of friends are getting a tad bored and we peer pressure a mate to rip a skid in his daily in the middle of perth city..
Ouch, not a whole lot to go on. Even if it had a knackered piston it should still at least try on the other pots, compression sounds ok in the clip though. Any spark and does it get fuel pressure up? Would check the position sensor on the flywheel, they're magnetic and attract crap from the starter/ring gear and eventually get blinded by it, one of those 'make it stop' tricks manufacturers use :/ After that... feck knows, cut a big hole in the bonnet and stick 3 downdraught webers on it
I have always wondered about why people fit bigger discs & sometimes caliper spacers to account for the disc size.. if the pad is not covering most of the surface of the disc, is it not a pointless mod?
Below is an illustration of what I mean.. does this make it pointless?
Dissapates(sp?) heat as its a larger surface area...thats about it, wont provide ANY upgrade unless you are getting brake fade...which you wont on the street
Think of torque figures, kg/m or lb/ft, the same calliper on a bigger diameter disk will increase the distance from the centre so will have greater leverage, like a short handled wheelbrace will need more force than a long handled one. Depends on other stuff to though, greater piston area pushes the pads harder against the disk and so gives more braking torque. Heat is the biggest enemy of brakes and a bigger disk has more area to dissipate the heat so fade is reduced.
You did check the basics before you stripped it down right? Fuel, air, spark?
That oil over the plug could've been because someone made a mess when pouring, you have a failed gasket (on the camcover obviously) or the head or camcover has a crack letting the oil through. I assume you've checked for all of this. Also, it'd be worth checking oil level as we've had a car in that was filled to the brim with oil, which obviously wouldn't start but still cranked okay (that turned out to be an ECU problem and someone who doesn't understand what the check engine light means).
Oh yes, it has been run on a diagnostic programme right? You won't find a problem such as the ECU flaring up without having it scanned first. It can save you a lot of time.
There wasn't any fuel getting to the engine, but I only wanted to get it running to drive it round the side of the house, I don't actually need the car to work so I gave up.
It's a different set of carriers, calipers, discs & pads - the pads grip the full side of the disc (from edge to edge) - although admittedly it's difficult to see from the pictures!
Slightly better one...
And yes it is totally pointless on the street - I will openly admit that. As I needed new pads, and the discs would need replacing anyway soon-ish it didn't cost me *that* much to do though...
It is easy to work out where the problem is with fuel though.
Remove injectors form engine, with fuel lines attached turn key, does fuel come out?
If Yes, engine is getting fuel, problem is somewhere else.
If No, when turning engine does fuel come out of pipe when disconnected from injector?
If Yes, injectors need replacing
If No, disconnect pipe from whatever it connects to (I'd imagine either pump or filter), turn engine, does fuel come out?
Rinse and repeat, moving towards the fuel tank until you find the offending item. You could probably pinpoint it in an hour.