Dont flame me.

Basicly, i cant drift with my DFP. With my old joypad i was ok at it, now i cant cant. Do i need no force feedback? I have sets and stuff, but its mainly the wheel. I'm using 900deg too if that makes any significant difference.

I know learning to race took me a few days when i first got it and over/understeering was a big problem of which i now have under control and it taught me not to start a slide in the first place. Is this a factor?

I only wana know because after a race / when the server emptys, doing laps and not getting a better time bores me, especialy when im on my jack jones and its something that takes basicly no preperation time to do. Also this thread _might_ help out others in the same position as me.

Cheers, Dave.

link in my sig to set up dfp. Drifting is about car control basicly... so you want to do some drills to sharpen those skills.


try drifting around the skidpad, but stay he same exactly distance away from the center while still keeping good angle.
place a cone or tire on the autox and try drifting around that for as long as you can. place 2 cones about 2 or 3 car lengths apart and try drifting figure 8's around that. there are many thing's i've mentioned to other people who have asked this same question. the search button is your friend

Also, the road cars in LFS have 720 degrees of lock not 900, so you're actually making it more difficult for yourself than needed. Give 720 a go and see if that helps at all!

I'd stick with the force feedback as well. Set it up as Gabkicks suggests in his sig and then play with the ingame force % until you are happy.

I tend to have my DFP on a pretty small rotation, since i mostly race open-wheelers, but i've found it also works for drifting. I'm too lazy to constantly change my wheel settings It probably makes it a bit easier actually, not having to turn the wheel as much. I'd search google for "how to drift" for some tips. You basically need to turn in earlier than you normally would and give it some throttle

The car you're using and the setup can also make a huge difference. Here's a good drifting setup for the XR Turbo, it's almost impossible to NOT drift with it

http://travbrad.dyndns.org/XRGTTURBO_drift.zip Just unzip that into your "settings" folder and you're good to go

First set your DFP to 720deg in the control panel and also in LFS. Then wheel turn comp to 1. You will now always have a 1:1 turn ratio with the cars in LFS

Set you FF up to personal prefs. I run 100% in CP and 100% in LFS, but I am used to cars without powersteer and also used to the forces up at this level.

In reality even with the forces up this high you should not have to fight that hard with the wheel in oversteer situations, listen to what it tells you and work with the forces, not against them, as you would IRL.

Then pick a good track, many of the reverse circuits are better than the forward for drifting, and just drive. .

I find the dfp way too small to swing from lock to lock without getting horribly lost. I set it to 360 degrees and run ffb at a level that feels like reasonable power steering.

It takes alot of practice ive got my dfp set up at 900degrees and i dont have a problem...just keep at it and you will get use to it

900 is to much, i use 540

For ffb % i use 100% in CP and only 15% for drifting. When i am online drifting, especially when drifting with others, i lock my wheel to 200 degrees, it means steering is twitchy but im used to it. Sometimes i will go and drift demo servers or offline for practice which then i use 720 and i am alright with it
It really is just practice

My DFP is set at 15% force feedback (which I increase to 20 or 25% on some cars like the LXs), and from memory 900 degrees - I'll have to change that though, after reading the previous posts.

Get yourself a good autocross drift park layout from the layouts subforum and practice, practice, practice. I use a great drift park by pdanev.

A drift setup never hurts, either - try Team Inferno.

It's great fun and very addictive, just keep a sense of humour about it, and remember never to call racing 'grip driving' illepall.

Some people keep thinking that setting 900 degrees in the DFP settings means that when using a car with, say, 540 lock, you have to turn far the full 900 to achieve max lock, and thus advising against it - this is only true if wheel turn compensation is set to 0! Set it to 1 and it'll always be 1:1.

I don't drift myself, but I do sometimes use 'The MOMO effect' when driving the BF1 so that it's a bit easier to catch oversteer: Set the DFP rotation to a lower amount than is set in LFS (e.g. 450 DFP, 900 LFS), and set wheel turn compensation to 0. It's quite unnatural but it might help.

As others said, set your settings to 720*. Also, when you "slide" into a turn, and feel the steering wheel pulling to one side; lift off the throttle a bit, then half way into the turn, get back on at full throttle (It will maybe or maybe not work for you, but that is what I did when I first started with this wheel).

(proper) drifting at 720 with the dfp is quite hard to accomplish really (harder than irl actually)
the problem is that the ffb motor slows the wheel down and you have to work against it instead of the motor doing all the work for you (which the wheel does irl)

Cheers for all the advice guys. I've tried most of the ideas and a few work for me, so its just a case of more practicing with them now

Thanks everyone.

posted this on rscnet.

here's a couple videos i took with the dfp in 830 degrees:

single bend in blackwood with LX6:

http://maniac136.home.mindspring.com/Movie1.wmv

double bend in blackwood with LX6:

http://maniac136.home.mindspring.com/Movie2.wmv

enjoy

Does anyone else have the same prob i do with dfp?
basically. I have forces set to 100 on wheel, and 40 in game (all other effects on but at 0 in profiler).

anyways. i find one some occasions, when i need to opposite lock out of a slide (when in rally for example), the wheel puts a crap load of resistance , normally resulting in a crash..

my wheel buggered? or is there a setting i can tweak? lol

ta

Quote from Shotglass :

(proper) drifting at 720 with the dfp is quite hard to accomplish really (harder than irl actually)
the problem is that the ffb motor slows the wheel down and you have to work against it instead of the motor doing all the work for you (which the wheel does irl)

Never had an issue at 720deg. With 100%/100% FFB settings I can go lock to lock VERY quickly and the wheel tracks countersteering on its own fast. Sounds like you are fighting the FFB too much to me.

Quote from Woz :

Never had an issue at 720deg. With 100%/100% FFB settings I can go lock to lock VERY quickly and the wheel tracks countersteering on its own fast. Sounds like you are fighting the FFB too much to me.

sounds like your not doing any hard to do links or youre going very low angle to me

I get that, its at full lock left say but i wana counter right, its like locked at full left untill the car self rights and crashes inevitably. But i dont know an answer

the dfp spins very slowly on its own.

Quote from Gabkicks :

the dfp spins very slowly on its own.

even when you do your best at turning it fast its still rather slow (and loud) nothing like a real car where the wheel spins frantically on its own

yeah my dfp is at 360.. but i had same problem at 720 degrees to. It is now 360 as its a little easier to recover now on rally, when it goes tits up :-\.. i didnt have the problem on my old crappy Thrustmater Force Feedback.... I dont know if its something wrong with my wheel, or something in the game physics my wheel pics up on, but its nothing like it used to be getting my BMW sideways.... I could recover from that, without the wheel locking into the slide, LOL

:: btw i dont recommend trying this.. You lose your licence if caught ::

ah well.. if anyone else with the problem finds out how to fix it please lemme know lol

I lost my licence too.

I found it again. Damn washing machine.

I experience the same thing as Mikey, but because my DFP is at 180 and I mostly use the gearstick on the wheel itself, both my hands have easy access to the wheel. One handed, as Mikey drives, it's a different story though.

You try using a stickshift with no hands <G>... specially in rally, i normally end up with a tired clutch foot, and a tired right arm (the one used for steering) lol.. Nevertheless, It just doesnt feel right. i can fight the force feedback fine if i need to. But when the wheel decides it wants to lock into a slide.. there's bugger all i can do. The lock into the slide is about twice as strong to me as the normal forces.

RockBigDave, is this the same thing you get too?

Quote from mkserve :

You try using a stickshift with no hands <G>... specially in rally, i normally end up with a tired clutch foot, and a tired right arm (the one used for steering) lol.. Nevertheless, It just doesnt feel right. i can fight the force feedback fine if i need to. But when the wheel decides it wants to lock into a slide.. there's bugger all i can do. The lock into the slide is about twice as strong to me as the normal forces.

RockBigDave, is this the same thing you get too?

In a nutshell yeah, except the tired right arm (left for me, using the shifter on the DFP and left for steering) and tired clutch foot (i need another pedal ) but yeah, i can fight the normal ffb when racing and when i get into a slight slide but when it locks into the slide its like the wheel totaly locks up untill the car stops / hits something.