HI All,

I have had my pedals since March, and have experienced the spiking problem. Now lucky for me, i brought my pedals in the us ( i live in the UK ) and while i was there, brought some spare pots from DigiKey.

Now a tip. If your pedals are within Warrenty, and you haven't touched them ( done any modding ) contact Logitech. They are really helpfull, and if lucky like me, they send you a complete set of pedals through ( so yes I have a spare set ).

Then for you old pedals, ring DigiKey and ask them, as they do replacement Pots for the Momo Racing, and Momo Force and DFP.

Then do the fixes that suggested here Momo Fix on your old pedals, keeping you new pedals spare.

Your old pedals will work like new. And if after the second time of the fix, replace the pots that you ordered from Digikey.

There is also a question about miss calibration on the pedals. Now this fix. Re-calib the pedals in LFS, but only push to 90%, then release. Then click Calibration Lock.

Also, try to make sure you wheel / pedals is on a seperate USB port to anything else, this also helps.

Also, use the 4.60 drivers, here

Hopefully you should all enjoy the Momo Effect

Regards

Fordie

My pedals are chronicly losing all calibration in LFS.(DFP) Ill be racing down the straight and get no throttle and brake. So I have to frantically pump the gas/brake to recalibrate them. Ive even used the 'lock calibration in LFS'.

My second problem is after 1.5 hours play the pedals stop getting their position updated. (Throttle only). So I can floor it and lift off and it will stick floored until a button is presses, brake is touched, or steering is moved. The throttle only has its position updated with brake or steering input.

Needless to say these to faults make league racing a new frustration and Im quickly looking for quick fixes. I know the pot in the throttle is a bit jumpy in a certain spot.

1st Option - Send them back ASAP.

2nd Option - If out of warrenty, do the pedal fix ( above ) It does work.

Regards

Fordie

I know how to fix the mechanical errors of the pedal, I have done it over 10 times but I am expireiencing this really weird problem...

The pedal works perfect for PS2 and is still accurate.

But when used with PC the pedals are still accurate but I HAVE to use them in combined pedals, because my cockpit was not meant for use with DFP pedals and I need the DFP pedals as my clutch it really pissed me off. Now I use the calibration lock and make it so it reconizes a gas pedal push as a full push. I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem, I am going to reinstall the drivers and see if it fixes anything.

Quote from Fordman :

1st Option - Send them back ASAP.

2nd Option - If out of warrenty, do the pedal fix ( above ) It does work.

Regards

Fordie

Will do. Once Logitech tells me theyre gonna send my pedals Ill exchange my DFP for another at futureshop. Yay for extended warrantees :P

Now thats just being Greedy

Good on ya

My experience with the Momo pedals is the following: I tried really a lot of all those fixes proposed all over the internet... in terms of software, hardware, configuration, whatever. Some of them changed nothing, others worked temporarily, however, problems came back after a few month and even worse then (decalibration, spikes, etc.). These pedals simply suffer from intensive usage.

The only fix that really helped finally was to throw them on the rubbish dump and to replace them by a plug-compatible pedal set from ECCI. Very expensive though, but I didn't see another way...

This is incredible, I must be the most unluckiest person on the planet with pedals. I had my momo for about a year and the pedals obviously were always spiking and at the wrong time. Like right before the start of an OLFSL race which I started up front in. I've done the tape fix which really isn't worth having the pedals go bad in another 3 weeks to do over again, and eventually just not work. I just bought a DFP with the rev B pedals thinking I would be free of this bullshit, but now after three days with the wheel my brake pedals is constantly coming on down a straight. This isn't like a normal spike with the pedals were it seems like you would have your foot on the brake just a little, but the brake is constantly shooting up to about half way, and this is enough to ruin a race that I'm running. It seems more like a connection thing then the pedals, but I don't know I'm sure with my luck its something that is un fixable, and I'm not going to try the tape fix because It won't work. I've checked the wires and the pedal connection cord is fine, so I don't know I Just want to bitch at logitech and tell them how ****ing frustrating this really is.

Quote from Fordman :

Then for you old pedals, ring DigiKey and ask them, as they do replacement Pots for the Momo Racing, and Momo Force and DFP.

You don't happen to know the Digikey part# do you?

Momo pedals has one unique and simple problem: DESIGN.Its project is failed.The problem resides in the bushings, that are made of plastic, that are thin in the superior part, and naturally have a fast waste, generating a certain gap between the axi and the case, that permits that the potetiometer move from its position when the pedal is pressed.The unique way to correct that is 1 between 4 possible things:1 (not too fast, temporary solution, but the rigth thing to do): change your device for a new one in for assurance. Logitech should recall all the MOMOs it sold.2 (fast fix for short life solution): band the axis with many laps of teflon ribbon and reassembly the base.3 (hard-working but life time solution): rebuild new bushing with metal (bronze alluminium).4 (expensive, hard-working but compensatory self satisfaction): make new pedal from the scratch, using 10 K simetrical potentiometers, or the original ones.(the 4rd option is now my next step, once I have passed for the 3 previous)

Quote from Rob76 :

You don't happen to know the Digikey part# do you?

I don't Rob, but if you ring them, they are really Helpful.

Some of the momo spiking pedal probs are not allways potentiometer related , I have had the red "momo force" wheel and pedal set from new for about 3 years now and noticed problems with pedal spikes after 3 or 4 months , after checking pots with a multimeter it was clear there was some other cause as the output from the pots was super smooth , and a quick recalibrate in game often fixed the prob .

a few weeks after this prob showed up things turned really bad with pedals switching between seperate and combined axis all on their own sometimes midrace and lots of massive spiking (brk and throttle sometimes both) and no amount of recalibrating / reinstalling helped .

some hours later with the thing spread out all over my dining table I found the problem , the cable that is used to connect the pedals to the wheel and the 25pin connection were giving problems ,the internal cores of the cable are very thin and some had broken inside (o good test was to bend cable very carefully when the fault was present and sometimes it would go) also after many insertions 1 of the pin receptors in the 25 pin socket had pushed itself thru the back making a poor contact .

W Gooden ..1 internal core with a break in it can cause the peds to look combined when there are not .

Anyway after hardwiring my pedals to the wheel with cat5 network cable has completely solved all these issues , its not too hard to do(some soldering involved and i have a wiring diagram I made somewhere Ill try to post it here if/when i find it . its a drastic step but as a last resort worth considering.

SD.

What should I do about a broken-ish wire? The logitech wires are always the ones that break for me. Which is why my last one stopped working. The pedals didn't break but the wire going to the pedals broke.

Quote from xapexcivicx :

What should I do about a broken-ish wire? The logitech wires are always the ones that break for me. Which is why my last one stopped working. The pedals didn't break but the wire going to the pedals broke.

if its still within warranty call logitech ... if not open them up and replace the cable

After a clean out ontop of the kitchen cupboards I have found some of my handwirtten notes and pinouts , replacing the cable to the pedals is made a bit more complex by the fact the end that plugs into the wheel is a sealed plug and the other ends are hardwired into the pedals and also the usb plug cables are contained within the same cable . I will attempt to write a short guide on how to do the rewiring for the momos and get it up on the T7R website over the next 2 weeks .

www.triple7racing.co.uk

SD.

ILU Sparky

Will read, and look for the warrenty.

Quote from SparkyDave :

replacing the cable to the pedals is made a bit more complex by the fact the end that plugs into the wheel is a sealed plug and the other ends are hardwired into the pedals and also the usb plug cables are contained within the same cable

hmmm sounds like the momo uses a bit of a different system the ffgp and dfp use a standard telephone and sub-d plug on the wheel side and i havent opened the pedals yet but i assume its a 2 minute soldering (and for the ffgp crimping) job to replace the wires

xapexcivicx : http://www.triple7racing.co.uk ... act=ST&f=13&t=389

WIP more to follow

SD.

There might be something internally wrong with the DFP wheel or there might be some kind of a Windows/USB driver problem.

I have a sticking gas pedal now. It acts like it totally loses calibration. The pedal will act like it is stuck on, and other times it will not come on when pressed.

Here is the kicker, I have ECCI 6000 pedals. There is nothing wrong with the hardware. The pedals are connected to the DFP using the 9-pin dsub connector on the back of the DFP.

If I unplug the dsub, and reconnect it without doing anything else, the pedals start working correctly again. But only for a random period of time.

This happens using other games too, not just LFS.

I can close LFS and use either the Windows Controller panel or DXTweek, and watch the pedal stick and hesitate. It clears as soon as I disconnect the cable and reconnect it.

I am at a loss to explain it. I may have to get the HDUSB kit from ECCI and bypass the wheel completely for the pedals. I need to check continuity of the wires from the pedal to the dsub connector, but they have not been crimped or chewed on so I suspect it is OK.

One of the reasons I got the ECCI pedals is that the DFP pedals were erratic, but mostly with the brake, not the gas.

Does anyone have the part number for the MOMO pots?

Quote from AtomAnt :

Does anyone have the part number for the MOMO pots?

Momo Racing or Momo Force ( Black or Red One ? )

If you can wait until I get home from work, about 2hrs time, I will post the part numbers here.

Fordie

Digikey Part No for Replacement Pots for the Momo Racing ( Black One )
963282-KIT

And here is the Page for you:

http://uk.digikey.com/scripts/ ... h/dksus.dll?KeywordSearch ( IF BASED IN THE UK )
http://www.digikey.com/scripts ... h/dksus.dll?KeywordSearch ( IF BASED IN THE US )

Thanks Fordman, I did the Monzo fix-it plan , and i think it's going to be ok for a while. I will still order in some new pots.
Couldn't have fixed this with out all the great support in the LFS World.

BTW, it's quite easy to replace the pots, so here they are: 296XD103B1N (or CT2265-ND for all the series)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T053/1206.pdf

Look at the PDF file. You'll need just to cut the additional "legs" and work with file (an instrument). The same pots for $1.51 each.

Quote from detail :

BTW, it's quite easy to replace the pots, so here they are: 296XD103B1N (or CT2265-ND for all the series)

Look at the PDF file. You'll need just to cut the additional "legs" and work with file (an instrument). The same pots for $1.51 each.

Interesting Detail, but looking at the picture, they don't have the little ball on them to hold them in place, like the picture i have attached, so I don't think these would work.