So like i asked the other guy, I need to turn in less and sooner,

I also had a go in the MRT and you really miss the downforce and the 30+mph the FOX has, but i was taking the chicane on SO town i think it is the one that dosen't use the motor way and was getting through that quite well around 2MPH slower with a bit of twitchyness on the exit bumps apart from the uphill section after the start line i lose speed into T1 but other than that maybe its the turbo it has but i was for the most part keeping up braking is also alittle hair rising

hello koshi, adding my 2 cents.

if you want to achieve truly fast times, you have to get closer and closer to the perfect line through the corners.

I watched your first fo8 replay and you doing a great job of staying on the line. my suggestion is to keep driving slow, making it your first job to stay exactly on that line. Once you are so comfortable with a given corner, you go a tiny bit faster, staying on the same line. You'll see, over time if you keep going a little bit faster, you will get very quick.

but stop complaining about lack of grip. the truth is, every driver has this lack of grip. if that fastest driver had any more grip than you, he/she would go even faster. No, it is not the grip you have available but how you use that grip.

you are trying to match how someone else takes a corner, maybe even going on the same line, but the weight balance of your car is not set up to carry the car through the corner. you don't steer perfectly smooth. all the smallest details like that take you a bit farther from the perfect line, the best combination of all moves so that even running out of grip, you still stay on the track.

I hope to meet you on the track! see you

Ok thanks, I do like the V8 car, Its almost exactly like th 1990's F1 cars for that track the gears could be alittle shorter, Im starting to understand how these tyres work and blancing with careful steering and power MRT help'd, The FOX dose feel alittle slugish but that may be an illusion im getting from the in car view do you think thats making me miss my lines? Using the in car view well its more of a bonet cam i lifted it up and moved forward slightly

I need to get new pedals now, My throttle when it reaches about 98% the brake flicks on and off rapidly for no reason, So i cleaned it out like last time and its still doing it, Oh well will be back soon as i get new pedals

for the first chicane, the tyres arent gripping because your just yanking them round. You need to be very smooth on turn in to keep traction.

And also, you cant expect the tyres to magically grip when theyre freezing cold. bring up the F9 menu and wait till their greenish before going on a flat out lap. While the LFS tyre model isnt perfect, it is as close as any sim ive seen, so it really isnt worth blaming the physics considering a few thousand of us have no problems.

I know, I think its cause of the 180 wheel set at 360 even making tunroing easyer altho im make a small move on the wheel it gets exadurated into the game, Need a new wheel set now anyways im looking at a Logitech G25 with shifter and tripple pedals and i hope to back real soon few weeks to a month, But untill then i guess all i can do is watch replays and try to pick up on stuff im missing,

I've noticed is the front right wheel gose red really quikly couple of laps while the other three are still cold, Is that a camber or a toe thing? Or combo of the two, Im not very good at makeing setups I know what stuff is, Just not whats good for what i need

Thats why i wanted to try this NetKar cause they have put tones into the tyre modles phisicly and visualy but i still dunno if i need that telematry programe aswell cause i dunno how to get into gear even tho i set the buttons and everything, It says that they are compatible but not if i need it

you have to actually buy NKP to get the AIM telemetry thing. It really is no better or worse than LFS, other than the complete lack of any multiplayer.

Also, just because the graphical side of the tyres are better, does not mean the physics are. LFS tyres pick up dirt (orange bar on the tyres in F9) and you can easily see the wear in F9 aswell.

if you are massively in need of playing NKP though, i would suggest reading this guide:

http://forum.rscnet.org/showthread.php?t=250155

basically tells you all you need to know about NKP to get started.

[quote=DeKo;435944]
Also, just because the graphical side of the tyres are better, does not mean the physics are. LFS tyres pick up dirt (orange bar on the tyres in F9) and you can easily see the wear in F9 aswell.

I know LFS has to be atleast top 3 best racing games if not the best, But not only are the graphics looking good on NKP the phisics to tyres and look really good to, But if you have to pay then nevermind, Just thought if tryed the same style of car on a geam just as close to real life as LFS is somewhere between the two i might get cause they used real drivers and real cars

What setup are you using? It is truely a HORRIBLE setup . No wonder you are going so slowly. I did a test drive of you car after watching the replay and it seems like the brake force is set much too low, the car always understeers, and the tyres took forever to heat up - you should be using slick R1s no questions asked. I could drive much faster with the standard RACE_S setup.

practice with either the standard RACE_S setup or use the hotlap setup from here http://setupfield.teaminferno. ... ar_id=38&p_version=S2
Don't change any of the settings, because unless you are very experienced you will just make it worse.

Also you should always flatshift, you are losing a lot of time by taking your foot off the throttle.

I am a mouse user, and not very fast, but it took me less 5 tries to get the chicane flat out. I will post a replay later.

Please don't take this as offensive, I am trying to help you

Ok here is a replay of my bad driving . I havn't had much practice at this combo and also I use a mouse which basically means I can either be on full throttle or no throttle - making it hard to accelerate out of corners.

I am using the setup from the team inferno site.

Ignore the first lap (cold tyres).
I brake too late for turn 1 on lap 3.
I mess up the chicane on lap 4 - I turned in too late.
observe and learn.

Also I remember from you replay that sometimes you are changing gears far too early and sometimes far too late. Watch for the red shift lite and change as soon as it come on, no earlier. When I was learning in the demo I used auto-gear change so I could focus 100% on my line, breaking points and acceleration points.

Also don't be afraid to brake with full force - really stamp on it the fox can brake amazingly quickly because it is so light. If you lock up - it doesn't matter; its only a virtual tire and you can reset.

When you are racing press F9 to bring up the tier temp. display. Here is how to understand it http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/D ... Tyre_temperature_.26_wear

I know my driving is not very good, but I hope that this will help you to learn

Have fun!

EDIT: Owing to my complete noobishness I overlooked that this thread had more than 1 page, therefor anything I said below is likely to be complete rubbish.

FYI: LFS models dirt on tyres and shows you this information, along with tyre temperature and tyre wear, by pressing F9.

Regarding 180 degree wheels, i've only once driven a race car that made me move my hand position on the steering wheel to go from lock to lock - and that was a road car done up for racing (it was also rubbish - different story).

Regarding grip on exit, firstly kerbs: Well there are many kerbs that I use - but it's important to understand how using kerbs effects the weight distribituion and mommentum on the car before pushing too hard whilst using them.

The basic principles of racing are to be on half or more power by the time you reach the apex of the corner.

I cant watch your replays (im at work) but my guess is you have a combination of tyre heat issues and throttle control problems. It's important to be progressive with the throttle when driving a rear wheel drive car, most of the slick cars are rear wheel drive. You might want to try the FXR whilst getting used to them because it is 4WD so its a little more forgiving.

That chicane at AS Club is harder than it looks, to be fair. The turn-in point is difficult to spot, and you can't see the quickest line until you've already apexed the first turn (by which time you've either got it right or wrong).

If you can't get the fronts to stick you're either going too fast, using too much steering angle (or adding it too quickly), or there isn't enough force on the front wheels (so you need to lift a bit or brake a bit to get the tyres to bite).

First thing you need to do is take all that fuel out of the car! Run 15 to 20% tops if you're just practicing the track.

Then you need to turn in at a time that will give you a fighting chance of getting within a mile of the apex (or clipping point). You turn in late, but not hard enough, you only reach the limit of the front tyres for a brief moment mid corner and then it seems you're doing your best to turn them beyond their optimal angle, which only compounds your problems.

Oh and btw, if you can't handle LFS singleseaters, don't expect to be immediately any better (read nearer the fast guys) in nKpro. Noone that's quick at nKpro would struggle like that with LFS, and vice-versa. It's you, not the physics and not the tyres.

Thanks for the extra tips, I will have to try them as soon as i can get this G25 or something as good, I might still go online using a PS2 pad, Its works alittle altho the deadzone is too small, I know i can't drift with a pad but i haven't tried grip, Will post a replay if i do try with a padsee if its any better, If that guy could run that analisys [Dunno if thats right, Chances are slim] and give me an over view that could be helpful info, Thanks again

Forgot to add is there a social thred i should go to?, So this one dose get to long

Quote from Koshi_Eternium :

I know, I think its cause of the 180 wheel set at 360 even making tunroing easyer altho im make a small move on the wheel it gets exadurated into the game, Need a new wheel set now anyways im looking at a Logitech G25 with shifter and tripple pedals and i hope to back real soon few weeks to a month, But untill then i guess all i can do is watch replays and try to pick up on stuff im missing,

You don't neccessarily need another wheel... When I started with LfS, I used a R440, also a 180°-wheel... If you can afford a G25 without a guilty mind, I'd recommend going for it, but don't expect yourself to improve only with that purchase (I even go as far as it wouldn't make a real difference)... I'm not too fond of the advice to set steering lock higher than those real 180° either... An idea would be increasing analogue steer smooth in the misc options (I had about .6 with my old wheel, but that's completely up to your style) to compensate for the rapid and jerky input due to the short ways... If you then still find yourself unable to steer smoothly, maybe it's a good idea to reduce the steering lock in the setup (under steering)...

Not a new wheel as such just the pedals, I mean my wheel isn't bad give you an alright feeling of driving but a nice full turn steering wheel shouldn't hurt execpt for maybe the prace brand new from logitech g25 is $300 £160somether with steel tripple pedal [So better pedal control with no flex] and 6speed gear box But for the BF1 i need seven. Unless i can twaek the final drive so it gose the same in 6 gears, I was thinking about making a 7speed shifter, I got the pad circut board all i need is to know where to solder the wires, The box and that shouldn't be anyproblem, Just the wiring i've seen i bunch of site with set by set, But my PCB has a blob of blick plastic making it hard to map the buttons, Anyhelp with making a shifter will be appceated,

Quote from Koshi_Eternium :

Not a new wheel as such just the pedals, I mean my wheel isn't bad give you an alright feeling of driving but a nice full turn steering wheel shouldn't hurt execpt for maybe the prace brand new from logitech g25 is $300 £160somether with steel tripple pedal [So better pedal control with no flex] and 6speed gear box But for the BF1 i need seven. Unless i can twaek the final drive so it gose the same in 6 gears appceated,

you can't use the h-gate shifter on the BF1 or any other single seater, you have to use the paddles or the sequential. so you don't need to build a shifter

Ok, Just have to use the one that comes with the wheel for Drift and Rally

or racing the tin tops

Since i don't need a shifter, Dose anyone know how i could make a handbrake, I know i can get the mechanisim [I'll just rip one from a car at a junk yard] but i dunno if i could make it pressure senistive, The bits in the pedals may be useful altho i dunno how i would plug it in to the PC and have it be read by the PC and LFS

You can have all the fancy crap in the world it wont make you faster. All you need is a steering wheel (180 degrees is fine) and pedals which you appear to have so save yah money and keep practicing.

i was thinking of buliding a handbrake the other day. the way i was going to do it was tape a stick to my other wheel and put the wheel on the floor. then just set the second wheels steering axis as the handbrake axis. of course this would only work if you had two wheels but you could get a cheap wheel off ebay

Hrm? That just might work, I could use my Wingman wheel, But i would want the real thing tho, Like i said, I can get the mechanisim just wiring again like with building a shifter, i have all the parts but i can't map the pads PCB enough to where to solder, A handbrake shouldn't be to hard I mean its one axis and less than a foots movement, The thing from my pedals should be ideal just that my pedals plug into the wheel with what looks like a 56k[The little one that goes in the computer not the larger one that gose in the phone line] If i could intergrate it with the G25's shifter unit[Without making the shifter not work] or something that would be cool

Oh yeah as for using the Pad, The D-pad and thumbstick don't center right, Also same with mouse and keyboard users, with out force feedback, I got nothing to feel so i can't predict what the car is gunna do

Forgive me my ignorance, but why the heck would anyone want a handbrake? Unless you're drifting or regularly driving rally stages made from autocross objects you're not going to need the handbrake, ever.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Forgive me my ignorance, but why the heck would anyone want a handbrake? Unless you're drifting or regularly driving rally stages made from autocross objects you're not going to need the handbrake, ever.

that's why i decided not to bother making a handbrake