Quote from vicbel :

You are right, that won't work, but I realized the code you had wouldn't either. I think you'd need to add the underlined portion.

Yeah, you're right. I would probably even change it to a switchcase if i would do it. But im not really a programmer..

Quote from vicbel :

Easier yet ... just change the audio files so that the inside and outside audio are the same as the left/right. (copy and rename the files.)

That doesn't work.. Think about it again! (or read the code)

Could you add an option in pitspotter to not say inside/outside, only right/left?

It looks like it would be really easy to fix. It could probably be done like this (bold code is added):

Main.cs Line 1371-1451

(The syntax might not be correct)

Thanks for keeping pitspotter alive!

Last edited by SFL, Tue 30 Dec 2008, 00:43.

Quote from DragonCommando :

Repeatedly stalling it by letting out the clutch to fast can hurt the clutch and some things connected to it at either end, but it shoulden't do internal damage to the engine.

I think you'll have to do that more times than you will ever have time for in a LFS race.

What about the FFB? What settings do you find the most realistic?

I just got the G25 and i've been lowering the strength (in-game) more and more as i find situations that i feel is unrealistic.

Quote from samjh :

Definitely not!

Racing and road-driving should not be considered the same. Even simple stuff, like driving lines are very different.

There are some racing skills, such as observation, smoothness, and car control, that can be used for road-driving. However, everything else is very different. The attitude, mindset, and cognitive skills are very far from racing.

A lot of race drivers make horrific road-drivers with very unsafe habits. Rallying is actually more suited to road-driving, if you want to transfer skills.

Did you read page 21?

One thing i've found out is that sometimes when my computer is under too much load i get stuff like that.. You could try lowering settings just to check.

Quote from legoflamb :

IMHO the track for HLVC should be limited to at least two wheels in the white lines.

That wouldn't really work on f.e. blackwood

Quote from keiran :

Curbs are not part of the circuit in any racing series I know of... the white lines define the circuit and their should be at least 2 wheels on the circuit at all times.

I've allways thought and been told that the curbs are part of the track. Apparently they aren't and then the green stuff offcourse aren't either!


Thanks everyone for clearing up my confused mind!

Then i guess i posted in the wrong section after all.

Quote from samjh :

Definitely off-track.

In real life:

• You can only run off the track in order to avoid a collision (example: first corner scrum).
  
• You are not allowed to gain an advantage by going off the track (example: if you exit a corner too wide and go off-track but end up overtaking someone in the process, then you will be penalised or required to relegate the position to the passed driver).

I totally agree. I just thought that the green stuff was some sort of curb and the curbs was part of the track.

Quote from Kronvall :

Hey, thats me... I'm not a cheater!

Damn I'm cutting that much...

Are you on my side or a hypocrite? ;D (jk)

Quote from The General Lee :

Wrong section.

Since i don't think this is a bug where else should i put it?

Then why is the example HLVC valid (should be easily fixed) and why isn't the tire row longer?

Quote from Woz :

Normal rules is that you keep 2 wheels on the track so I would say that is not valid.

The way I see it is that the green stuff is an extended curb and the curb is part of the track.

My guess is that it's working as intended. Imo it's perfectly ok to use those parts of the track. The reason there are bumps on some parts probably is just to make the track a little more intresting as you have to make a decision if you want to take a risk or play it safe.

Example:


What do you guys think? Anyone know what rules are used in rl racing?

Quote from Fox 2 :

If you choose AU4 track in HL mode (or if it was chosen before), race lenght will be set to 1 lap instead of a practise, and it won't be changed if you'll change the track. Re-entering HL helps, but I think this lil' thing should be fixed anyway

!

Quote from ghost racer :

I use a mouse with a sequential shifter (Mouse scroller)

I tested out the FBM, and I am not able to shift unless my car has fully let off the throttle, then I am only able to upshift in the FBM.

I tested out the BF1 and I can upshift no problem while having the throttle down.

Downshifting is fine in the FBM.

The FBM has a manual sequential gearbox. That means the clutch isn't used and you have to ease of the throttle when shifting up (and, irl, blipping when shifting down)

The BF1 has a semi-automatic sequential gearbox wich means throttle cutting and shifting are done with paddles.

Quote :

However, I've been getting strange results with other cars downshifting (Non pattle shifted cars).

Only with the clutch fully depressed... and I can't push the throttle past a certain limit. Then it will allow me to downshift.

I've also posted the error that I can't downshift only unless I have the clutch fully depressed. I also can't downshift without using a clutch. Again this error does not afftect the FBM

I think this could be along the same lines of the glitch I'm getting.

When shifting a H-shifter (unless it's a dogbox one) you allways need to use the clutch to change gear.

If anything in this post is incorrect correct me please!

I thought that according to ruedas post motorbikes has gearboxes that was meant to be shifted without clutch (dogbox) and road cars has not (allthough it's possible but not in any race conditions)


Being stuck in neutral would be a nice addition to lfs gear physics. Would make correct shifting alot more important!

Quote from rueda :

- Dog engagement gearbox It is used on motorcycle and on race car. /.../ Race gearbox need to put a throttle input to help downshifting and to lift a bit the throttle when upshifting.

Great post! Got me to ask some questions:

You don't use the clutch when shifting a motorbike?

When shifting a race car with sequential dogbox, if the throttle isn't applied correctly do you get stuck in neutral between gears or is the "old" gear still engaged?

Quote from ghost racer :

yes because the clutch essentially is a flywheel break..

I really do like how the gearbox has more of a delay until your in the gear and how the clutch let into them.. I guess I just thought, you needed a bit more clutch then needed with higher gears, and took awhile to get the gears with closer gear ratio's.

Love the patch

?

The clutch isnt used in the fbm..

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I know, I'm talking about the heat, a real clutch at maximum temperature would NOT cool down after 5 mins...thats what I'm saying...

My bad!

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I'd highly doubt if a 5 minute cool-down would result in a perfect clutch...

Offcourse it won't!

In this patch heat is added not damage, maybe it will be in a future patch but right no only heat is simulated!

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

One problem I've found is with the clutch overheating: (I've only tried this in BF1 though)

I get overheat-o-meter up to full red, where clutch plates should be melted, smelted and warped behond recognition. But after waiting 5 mins for the meter to show no heat (or damage, whatever it measures :shy, the clutch is perfect again

In reality, once your clutch plates are melted to that degree (or to the degree where there is no drive, anyway), once cooled, they join together, and cannot be prised apart (except with an abnormally large con-saw or angle-grinder and a free weekend :tilt.

Just my input to the situation...

Clutch damage isn't added (yet)!

Quote from Dark Elite :

There is also the point that when a race car has been stalled, you would usually have to turn the ignition off and back on again - or perhaps override some switch or another - to be able to use the starter motor again, and this would be two actions

I've never heard of the fact that ignition needs to be switched off or similar to be able to use starter engine. I have no experience of real race cars but it seems illogical! Maybe someone knows for sure?

BTW: Anyone knows why throttle is applied while engine breaking in the bf1?

Last edited by SFL, Mon 10 Dec 2007, 21:18.

Quote from Dark Elite :

No, because you don't use one key for turning the ignition on, and then another for starting the engine

In every car I've ever driven, you must turn the ignition key back at least one stage - usually all of the stages, right back to Full Off, so the car can reinitialise any electronic systems - for it to be possible to use the starter motor again. This makes two actions for for turning the engine back on after a stall, and so we must press I twice. Personally, I think it's a nice little touch of realism.

I highly doubt that any race car uses a key and not a switch to turn ignition on/off. Maybe its realistic in uf1 but not in fbm
EDIT: Btw, none of the cars are normal road cars. They are all more or less modified. f.e. you can't change break balance on a normal road car.

Quote from Dark Elite :

No, it's more to do with the automatic clutching system in the BMW Sauber - I've realised exactly why this happens now - it seems the car's electronics will not engage the clutch (and you can't force it to do so, seeing as it's fully automatic and all we can do is disengage the clutch with a button/pedal) after the engine has stalled until it's manually restarted: hence jump starts can't be done.

If you turn the ignition off when the car is moving the clutch is still engaged for a while. If the ignition is turned back on while the engine is still turning it should start again, no?

Last edited by SFL, Mon 10 Dec 2007, 20:59.