I actually thought this thread would die once it got moved to Off Topic, but it seems to have landed on its feet. It must have nine lives or something.
Back on topic, yes, he does. We were supposed to run some head to head LAN races this evening, but he had to scratch due to another committment that came up.
I hat to interrupt the puns and lolcattery, but I thought I'd point out that my cat actually hates LFS, as it draws my attention away from what he feels is most important. Namely, himself. He has a knack for jumping up on my desk in front of my monitor split seconds before tricky braking zones, resulting in spectacular crashes.
I actually have an MPR called %$#&INGCAT.MPR (only not censored), in which I had a sure second place finish ruined by him. I'm thinking of reporting him to the Wrecker Barricade.
Indeed, I got that as well. I don't know if I need to re-upload. I don't want to overburden your servers, Sam, so I'll only re-upload if the .mpr files didn't get there. Please let me know. I do think my explanation got truncated due to the single quotes, so here's the text of my complaint, with the name of the offender redacted:
I think you're (a) asking if the really fast drivers are using a sequential mode transmission with the paddle shifters (or, in the words of Jeremy Clarkson, a "flappy-paddle gearbox"), and then (b) deriding that because such things aren't available in a normal car.
To which I'd say, first, yes, a great many people--even those with a shifter--are using paddle shifters, or the shifter in sequential mode. I use the latter myself, because in H-gate mode, the G25's shifter is rubbish, and proper heel-toeing feels awkward with the pedals all on the same plane. I won't deny that it's also advantageous to do so, but that isn't my primary reason.
As someone above pointed out, you are at a slight disadvantage when using the H-gate, and the way to overcome that is by lots and lots of practice (sorry about the "c", I'm a dirty American, and thus use a bastardized version of the language). To bang down the gears properly and match revs on every shift you need to be lightning fast and very precise with your footwork. That only comes through repetition.
Also, and I haven't watched your replay as I don't have LFS at work, but are you saying that you're downshifting directly from, say, 6th to 2nd, by braking and holding the clutch in, then engaging 2nd when the speed has dropped low enough? You'll never get close to optimal engine braking that way. At first, try skipping the odd-numbered gears (i.e. heel-toe from 6th to 4th, then from 4th to 2nd). As your footwork improves, and your shifts become faster, you'll be able to briefly engage each gear as you come down through them under braking, which is what you should be doing.
As for "soo a gear shift wht u cant get in a fxo," based on the lap times you quoted, I'd say you're probably talking about the FXR, and the other GTR cars. While these cars of course don't exist in real life, modern racing GT cars (for example, those that run at Le Mans) do have sequential shifting transmissions, which at the highest level are advanced paddle operated systems with automated clutches and shift without lift computer control of the ECU. So using the paddles and autoclutch in the GTRs isn't quite the abomination that some people make it out to be. It may be in the true "street" cars, but people are still limited by the hardware they have available.
Well, that's good, actually. I got inside 1:44.4 about three days after you moved the time to 1:44.0, so that forced me to keep working. Making it total race time will force me to keep improving as well.
How about that, aerolitos? I'd like to try your set, as your brake settings are so different from mine. I wonder if you're found other solutions that are different as well. Incidentally, here's what I'm currently running with (you were talking about AS3, and this is my set for that track). It's set up to be relatively stable, for the ham-fisted driver (i.e., me), so there's not too much oversteer. The problems with this set seem to be that (a) it won't carry much more than 103 mph through the apex of turn 1, which is 10 mph slower than the front runners, and (b) it sometimes understeers into "the left hander," or what I think of as Turn 2. Both of those, though, might be attributed to my own driving finesse, or lack thereof.
There are numerous examples of professional race drivers being completely unable to drive a teammate's setup (Graham Rahal and Sebastien Bourdais in Champ Car are the most recent example I can think of), and those are people with (a) more talent than any of us, and (b) teams of engineers dedicated to fine-tuning the car.
In a noncompetitive situation, driving an uncomfortable setup can teach you things, as it may force you to drive properly in instances in which your preferred setup might have been covering for hamfistedness.
But in a race, when one has to be thinking about race strategy and about how the car immediately in front and the one coming up the inside are going to force a different line through the upcoming corner, it helps to not also have to be thinking "Oh, yeah, and this car doesn't rotate as much I'd like on entry, and thus requires more trail-braking to the apex." That's one too many conscious thoughts to have running around my noggin at race speeds.
I'm not trying to completely refute what you're trying to say, as I think you have a point. I guess I think set ups matter a bit more than you're saying.
I just thought I'd do the honorable thing here, and say that I should not be included in the next license update. I am getting better, and I was running a couple races turning laps in the high to mid 1:44's. On lap 5 of the attached MPR*, I was on pace for another high 1:44 when the FXR in front of me spun coming out of the chicane. He made contact with me in the right rear quarter panel, but instead of spinning me out, it instantly accellerated the car from around 110 mph to over 170 (which is disconcerting, to say the least, when one is in 4th gear). I straightened it out, grabbed sixth gear before the engine damage got any worse, and crossed the line in 1:42.70. But that was about two seconds faster than what the lap should have been, without the wonky collision result. The next lap would have been too fast, too, given the fact that I crossed the line at over 170 mph, so I parked the car.
I'd like to earn a CD2 license, but I'd like to earn it by being clean and getting those last few tenths off my laptime, not by exploiting a bug. So unless I turn a 1:44 or better (in which case I'll let you know), you shouldn't include me in the next license update, no matter what the stats say.
*If you do view this replay, please don't think me a crasher--on lap 1 I was trying to brake early for the hard left hander to let a guy who was three seconds faster than me by, but locked a wheel and pitched the car sideways.
Do you have Bob Smith's Setup Analyzer/Project 3? If not download it here. It has an awesome feature for setting damping, which shows you the effects of your damping changes, and you should be able to play around and get it set so that it will oversteer a tad on corner entry while reducing braking, but be neutral on corner exit while increasing throttle. Of course, you still have to try those changes out in the game, but this program has taught me tons about setting up cars.
A light, Mid-engine, rear drive turbo car (like a second-gen MR2), to compete in the TBO and GTR classes.
If people are bored with turbo 4's, then the car could be slightly larger and V6 powered (a la NSX), but I maintain that a fast mid-engined rear drive car that's competitive with the TBO class and the GTR class would be a great addition.
I would suggest an open top and a closed top LeMans prototype, because I think they'd be awesome, but people would just race them in 10-lappers.
So instead I'll suggest something easy and fun: a high powered rallycross car with downforce. Why is this easy? Just give the FXR some extra suspension travel and allow knobby and hybrid tires on it. Voila! Instant rally car.
Finally, how about a stupidly underpowered rear-drive GTR (to compete with the two little front-drive GTRs). I'm thinking something along the lines of an old 1.6L MX-5 with a roll bar and slicks.
I'm by no means the fastest cat on ASNat in the XRR, but I have tried a lot of sets, and 2000 Nm seems a tad high. Even on my G25, which has a pretty stiff brake pedal (by racing wheel standards), I find myself locking up too often using that much force. I've seen some fast sets using just over 1650, and never seen one over 1800. With 2000 Nm, you're only going to be able to use full deflection getting into turn one (where you aren't on the brakes very long), and at the very beginning of the braking zone for the hard left hander. Especially with the bias that far forward, you're making it extremely difficult on yourself to avoid locking a front wheel or two.
If that's your style, then go with it, but I find brake force around 1700-1800 to be easiest to use on the XRR (and it's not just my 1:44.3 running self--that's what the fast kids are using, too).
One other thing to bring up that factors into braking distance--what are your differential settings? While preposterously unrealistic, I find that using the locked diff* helps braking distances when coming down through the gears. While you may not want to use one as it presents other difficulties, tightening up your LSD on the coast side might help you shave a few meters off your stopping distances.
Oh, and you know that 30 Kg Scawen makes you lug around in the XRR? You can put that whereever you want (under the "Info" tab in the setup screen). Shoving it towards the rear of the car makes the XRR's F/R weight distribution more equal, and seems to help with braking. So try playing with that as well.
That's what I'm hoping happens eventually. It seems that with some slightly wider rear tires and a bit less turbo lag the XRR would be a bit quicker and lot more popular.
I'd agree. It perhaps has a greater propensity toward oversteer, which some people may find intimidating, but its throttle response and linear power delivery make said oversteer manageable, if one exercises prudence with the loud pedal.
Also, and maybe it's just me, but I find that the FZR brakes a heck of a lot better than the XRR (which makes sense, as a certain real life rear-engine flat-six powered sports car has always had notoriously good brakes).
Also agreed.
But if we're really in for a more permanent rebalancing with S2 Final, then then maybe the weights are okay where they are right now.
Seriously, the XRR and XRT are two of my favorite looking cars in the game. The XRR looks like a Mitsu Starion with (more of) an attitude problem. To me, that's a very good thing. The XRR looks more like a real car, and most like one that I'd want to drive. But style is subjective. Even so, you aren't suggesting that so many people are driving the FXR, which looks like the result of a one night stand between an Astra and a '93 Civic, because it's so stunning, are you?
More to the point of this thread, it does seem that the XRR is still mostly in the minority, at least on CD1. On the other hand, I was spectating CD2 the other night, and there seemed to be a fair number of XRR's there, so perhaps the balancing has made the car more appealing to the more skilled set. That's anecdotal, though; I wonder what the actual numbers say?
Really? I thought the added weight went on the car regardless? Looks like I need to add some ballast to the car when practicing. Although the last couple of days I've been slower online because I've been driving terribly. I can't blame a porky car for that.
Oh, I am. I should have made it last night. I was monkeying with my setup and by tightening up the diff I was able to run consistent low 1:44's while practicing. So I went over to CD1 and, thinking I'd found the magic setup, promptly tried to find those extra couple of tenths by overdriving the car, braking later than I should have and getting on the throttle earlier and harder.
I don't know what I was thinking. Of course, I just ended up having a couple of glorioius spins, overheating my tires, and generally being slower than normal. 'Twas embarrassing. I'll be online shortly again, with a cool head this time.
To be honest, though, CD1 is usually clean, if you put aside the mayhem that ensues at the start. Once everything gets sorted out, people tend to drive reasonably. Anytime I'm starting to get angry about the racecraft and manners of people on an S2 server, I just hover my mouse over the "Demo" button on the Display List of Servers screen, shudder briefly, and then think to myself "you know, maybe these guys aren't so bad."
I don't care so much about having laps ruined (let's face it, when you're running in the 1:44-1:45 range, you're perfectly capable of ruining a lap all by yourself), it's having entire races ruined. A couple days ago I was running 6th and dicing it up with the fifth place guy a bit, so we were naturally both slower (braking earlier, taking less than optimal lines to give each other room), when a mid race joiner who as five or six laps down--and who'd been running far closer to us than he ought to have for several laps--simply ran into the back of me under braking and left me in the kitty litter. In the XRR, that equals race over. Not that I would have won the race, or even finished fifth, but it did deprive me of a couple more laps of fun racing for position with the guy ahead, and kind of ticked me off.
Le sigh. I finally turn a 1:44.30, and you guys go and move the bar on me. :weeping:
I like the idea of total race time, as it would encourage people to be more careful. If you're going to do that, though, it may be useful to consider barring mid-race joiners. There's no point in jumping in the middle of what amounts to a qualifying race if your time isn't going to count.
I'd also support increasing race distance to 15 or 20 laps, as it would require people to take care of their tires a bit more. Even with R2s, you shouldn't need to change in the middle of a ten-lapper, but it happens. I've even seen a fellow--admittedly, a slow one--wear out a set of R4s on the front of an FXR halfway through a CD1 race (Of course, I have an ulterior motive for wanting increased distances: I'm also an XRR aficionado, and as it's easy on gas and tires, longer races might make make it a more popular car. It's sad being the only one in the field).
Anyway, enough rambling. I need to go find three tenths of a second.
I think it's the compression on the screenshots mainly--I'm working in 2048x2048 using the Master Skinnerz kit, and the main Gulf logos are from a 1024x768 image. The other, more minor problem would be that when I scale the 2048 PSD to 1024 in the GIMP and then export to JPG the image isn't as crisp (which to some extent is to be expected, of course). I may experiment with exporting in 2048 and then scaling the JPG (although I can't see any reason why that would be better).
Also, Shinozooka is a tire brand? Really? I thought that Cromo, Torro, and the real life Michelin were the only LFS tire brands. Good to know, though. Fortunately, all the decals are separate layers. so they're easily removed.
There are a few issues I need to sort out (the Eibach logo on the right wing tip needs to be moved a bit, for instance), and I'm not sure how well the Cromo logo-inspired curved orange stripe on the side works with the orange stripe on top, but I'm relatively new to this skinning business, and it's good enough for me to race for now.
You do recall correctly. I used to own an '88 RX-7, and it didn't have that "Seagull" emblem. From 1991 on they used a logo that was supposed to represent a flame, and then switched to that winged thingy they have now seven years later.
Oh, and just to keep this O/T, here's a shot of an XRT skin I did a while back, done up in the logos and colors of the greatest internet radio station in the world. I'm working on an XRR version, which should be a bit nicer, as I'm learning a bit about skinning now.
I made one a while back, but it was my second attempt at skinning ever, and it was when there was only a 1024 template available, so it kinda looks like hell. Anyway, preview, or download.
It's only loosely based on the skin, as the proportions of the old Champ Cars are so different from those of the BF1. It's also based on the later Green/Silver livery, not the older Green/White livery you posted pics of.