Ha, too big to quote, attached.
Reading the iRacing forums further it seems there has also been an update to the grass or off road model which most folk are finding much easier to cope with.
Reading the iRacing forums further it seems there has also been an update to the grass or off road model which most folk are finding much easier to cope with.
Agreed, you can feel the difference quite easily and the visuals match the feedback for the marbles reasonably too. It's not perfect but it is certainly a step in the right direction. There is a lengthy forum update from Mr Kaemmer himself explaining the current limitations and the approach used which is an interesting read if you like that sort of thing.
As a knock on from the update I'm finding the cars much more bearable in yaw then I ever have before.
As a knock on from the update I'm finding the cars much more bearable in yaw then I ever have before.
OK first off, did you buy it with an OS installed? If not that is your cause and you need an install disk, problem solved.
If it should have had an OS installed then you have to check a few things.
The very first thing to do is check that the BIOS is seeing your connected HDD correctly, if it shows in the boot order then that's enough and you can move on, if it doesn't show in the boot order then check the cables, if they are fine then you may indeed have a dead HDD.
A new PC running windows 7 or 8 and installed from fresh media can install on the HDD in 3 different ways:
Native SATA
IDE compatability
In the bios you can change which way the HDD connects IDE compatability should be avoided as it doesn't let you use all the new and fancy commands that SATA has but is still the default on some motherboards due to the fact that it will work with more drives and configurations than the others. So you need to find out which it is and possibly change it to the others to see if it then finds your installed OS.
The final way is EHCI mode, which is the newest and biggest pain in the ass. Your motherboard needs to be set to EHCI mode if it was installed as EHCI and not set if it wasn't (obviously) so if it is set one way, try the other.
For the next part I'm assuming you have another, functional PC.
If you are still not finding any boot media then make a live usb linux disk:
http://www.linuxliveusb.com/
Pick any of the recovery images or a preferred flavour of linux.
Once running on the new PC check the HDD for data, if you can see a windows install you would be best trying to do a windows repair which will require a windows install image if it is blank then you need to do a fresh install and leave some bad feedback for the seller.
If it should have had an OS installed then you have to check a few things.
The very first thing to do is check that the BIOS is seeing your connected HDD correctly, if it shows in the boot order then that's enough and you can move on, if it doesn't show in the boot order then check the cables, if they are fine then you may indeed have a dead HDD.
A new PC running windows 7 or 8 and installed from fresh media can install on the HDD in 3 different ways:
Native SATA
IDE compatability
In the bios you can change which way the HDD connects IDE compatability should be avoided as it doesn't let you use all the new and fancy commands that SATA has but is still the default on some motherboards due to the fact that it will work with more drives and configurations than the others. So you need to find out which it is and possibly change it to the others to see if it then finds your installed OS.
The final way is EHCI mode, which is the newest and biggest pain in the ass. Your motherboard needs to be set to EHCI mode if it was installed as EHCI and not set if it wasn't (obviously) so if it is set one way, try the other.
For the next part I'm assuming you have another, functional PC.
If you are still not finding any boot media then make a live usb linux disk:
http://www.linuxliveusb.com/
Pick any of the recovery images or a preferred flavour of linux.
Once running on the new PC check the HDD for data, if you can see a windows install you would be best trying to do a windows repair which will require a windows install image if it is blank then you need to do a fresh install and leave some bad feedback for the seller.
That is pretty low, what resolution do you display at. Your card has (relative to a real gaming card) very limited bandwidth so high AA coupled with a large res could easily kill your frame rate.
I've had similar issues to this with an older 3870. Horribly the best advice back then was to bake it in the oven. (I know, sounds mad) The reason being that at the time the fabrication plants were having QC issues and the memory on a number of AMD and Nvidia cards were getting shoddy solders for the memory chips. By baking it in the oven it melted the solder slightly and improved the circuit. I'm not saying that is what this issue is or that should be your first resort but it is possible.
First, disassemble your entire PC and give it a proper clean and plug it all back in but leave out anything that is not strictly required, so no sound/network card no additional drives no USB stuff etc. If your issues are resolved then it is possibly a PSU/dirt issue. Plug more stuff in and see if the problem comes back if it does then PSU/power delivery is the issue and replace your PSU - unfortunately it might be your Motherboard but you'll find that out when your new PSU arrives...
If that does not sort it try borrowing or using someone elses graphics card, doesn't need to be powerful just enough to get some tests going. If your issues are still present then it's not the graphics card.
If it's not the graphics card then try running with only one stick of memory, it is unlikely that they'd fail together so try one then try the other. Replace as required.
If none of the above has shed any light on the issue then it is most likely a motherboard or CPU failure and unless you have some very patient and helpful friends testing your CPU in their rig is not an option.
tl;dr
clean and rebuild your PC
test by component
bake your graphics card
First, disassemble your entire PC and give it a proper clean and plug it all back in but leave out anything that is not strictly required, so no sound/network card no additional drives no USB stuff etc. If your issues are resolved then it is possibly a PSU/dirt issue. Plug more stuff in and see if the problem comes back if it does then PSU/power delivery is the issue and replace your PSU - unfortunately it might be your Motherboard but you'll find that out when your new PSU arrives...
If that does not sort it try borrowing or using someone elses graphics card, doesn't need to be powerful just enough to get some tests going. If your issues are still present then it's not the graphics card.
If it's not the graphics card then try running with only one stick of memory, it is unlikely that they'd fail together so try one then try the other. Replace as required.
If none of the above has shed any light on the issue then it is most likely a motherboard or CPU failure and unless you have some very patient and helpful friends testing your CPU in their rig is not an option.
tl;dr
clean and rebuild your PC
test by component
bake your graphics card
That looks really nice. Might have to get me a new knob...
I bought this wheel after christmas. My previous wheel was Logitech Formula Force GP wheel:
About 270 degrees lock and all plastic construction. Pedals are simple 2 pot throttle and brake.
So I knew that there was going to be a significant difference but I wasn't really prepared for the difference. For one the T500 is huge, my normal seat position meant I was now staring at the wheel and could barely see the screen. After adjusting my seat, reading some setup tips I fired up trusty LFS and calibrated the wheel. Jumped in the LX6 and went for a drive. Frustratingly I crashed far far more than I would have with my old wheel. The brake was hard to gauge, having to use a clutch and gear stick was harder than I expected while lapping and the force feedback was so strong every turn was real effort and any kerb or collision knocked everything off my desk.
I fired up netkar pro to the same effect. Crashed lots, difficult to steer etc. Finally I tried iRacing, the reason I decided to change wheel in the first place and while it was better (I read more about FFB setup) I was still performing far worse than normal.
Beginning to think I'd made a mistake I fired up Raceroom Experience, in the Saleen and for the first time using the paddles to shift. Finally I found what I was looking for, fast accurate steering, strong FFB and starting to get a feel for the brake but it wasn't perfect I was still having issues with the pedals and feel from the wheel.
After much reading it seems that some sims require you to set the FFB force per car in game to get the actual feel right. I switched the pedals to GT style and installed the brake mod. I also moved the pedals about so the brake and throttle were better aligned for heel toe action. Having secured things on my desk I went through the process again.
The experience was what I'd been hoping for. Throttle and brake accuracy were easier to judge, steering was so much more precise and making accurate shifts feels good. I fired up pCARS and tried the Caterham 500 at Brands Hatch. Where before I'd catch slides with ease with my paltry 270 degree lock I was now able to feed the correct steering to not develop the slide and control it better on throttle when it did break loose. The speed and savageness of the wheel takes some getting used to but when you treat it like a car and not a game it rewards you.
Sadly it does leave you feeling like you want more. I originally thought that getting this wheel would satiate my sim driving requirements but all it has done is ignite them. I now want the loadcell mod, a cockpit, triple screen (or the Occulus Crystal Cove), buttkickers THE WORKS!
I can't say this wheel is better than the G25/27 or even the DFGT. I think it depends where you are coming from. I had a wheel that any new wheel would have been such an improvement to it would have been a great experience. The reason I went with the T500 was because it had a few more customisation options and had stronger FFB. The logitech wheels have better latency and are cheaper. If I'd had the money I'd have got the Fanatec CSR or a Frex but I didn't. I am now wondering if getting the Fanatec would be better than getting triple screen + butt kickers with my existing wheel. It seems to me that it works much the same as PC upgrades. The more you pay the better the product but the reward you get doesn't always track the same way. I doubt the CSR would double my enjoyment any more than I doubt the DFGT would half my enjoyment of racing.
My advice to anyone on a budget is to look at the complete sim setup they have and budget for that, not just the wheel. I budgeted for the wheel but I think that right now, from the setup I had, I'd have been better off getting the DFGT and triple screens, it would have given me the perspective and the massive boost in accuracy I was looking for. However now that I've got the T500 I now see that I want the full experience to match it and I don't have the money to upgrade anything else for a while.
About 270 degrees lock and all plastic construction. Pedals are simple 2 pot throttle and brake.
So I knew that there was going to be a significant difference but I wasn't really prepared for the difference. For one the T500 is huge, my normal seat position meant I was now staring at the wheel and could barely see the screen. After adjusting my seat, reading some setup tips I fired up trusty LFS and calibrated the wheel. Jumped in the LX6 and went for a drive. Frustratingly I crashed far far more than I would have with my old wheel. The brake was hard to gauge, having to use a clutch and gear stick was harder than I expected while lapping and the force feedback was so strong every turn was real effort and any kerb or collision knocked everything off my desk.
I fired up netkar pro to the same effect. Crashed lots, difficult to steer etc. Finally I tried iRacing, the reason I decided to change wheel in the first place and while it was better (I read more about FFB setup) I was still performing far worse than normal.
Beginning to think I'd made a mistake I fired up Raceroom Experience, in the Saleen and for the first time using the paddles to shift. Finally I found what I was looking for, fast accurate steering, strong FFB and starting to get a feel for the brake but it wasn't perfect I was still having issues with the pedals and feel from the wheel.
After much reading it seems that some sims require you to set the FFB force per car in game to get the actual feel right. I switched the pedals to GT style and installed the brake mod. I also moved the pedals about so the brake and throttle were better aligned for heel toe action. Having secured things on my desk I went through the process again.
The experience was what I'd been hoping for. Throttle and brake accuracy were easier to judge, steering was so much more precise and making accurate shifts feels good. I fired up pCARS and tried the Caterham 500 at Brands Hatch. Where before I'd catch slides with ease with my paltry 270 degree lock I was now able to feed the correct steering to not develop the slide and control it better on throttle when it did break loose. The speed and savageness of the wheel takes some getting used to but when you treat it like a car and not a game it rewards you.
Sadly it does leave you feeling like you want more. I originally thought that getting this wheel would satiate my sim driving requirements but all it has done is ignite them. I now want the loadcell mod, a cockpit, triple screen (or the Occulus Crystal Cove), buttkickers THE WORKS!
I can't say this wheel is better than the G25/27 or even the DFGT. I think it depends where you are coming from. I had a wheel that any new wheel would have been such an improvement to it would have been a great experience. The reason I went with the T500 was because it had a few more customisation options and had stronger FFB. The logitech wheels have better latency and are cheaper. If I'd had the money I'd have got the Fanatec CSR or a Frex but I didn't. I am now wondering if getting the Fanatec would be better than getting triple screen + butt kickers with my existing wheel. It seems to me that it works much the same as PC upgrades. The more you pay the better the product but the reward you get doesn't always track the same way. I doubt the CSR would double my enjoyment any more than I doubt the DFGT would half my enjoyment of racing.
My advice to anyone on a budget is to look at the complete sim setup they have and budget for that, not just the wheel. I budgeted for the wheel but I think that right now, from the setup I had, I'd have been better off getting the DFGT and triple screens, it would have given me the perspective and the massive boost in accuracy I was looking for. However now that I've got the T500 I now see that I want the full experience to match it and I don't have the money to upgrade anything else for a while.
Well I have found one thing that is wrong with that spec, it turns out that the recommended PSU for the top flight graphics cards are 750W. While I suspect this 620W would get by in a single card configuration with few harddrives I don't see the point in spending all this money only to find that I can't get the graphics I want later... Back to the drawing board for 750W PSU's.
I'm not sure Mantle is really a good selling point unless all the games I want take advantage of it. The newly announced Freesync, however, is quite appealing.
I'm convinced I read that there was a demo of BF4 on mantle showing a 45% frame rate increase but I can't find the article.
I'm convinced I read that there was a demo of BF4 on mantle showing a 45% frame rate increase but I can't find the article.
Thanks, appreciate the comments, not sure how the currency translation works is 1k NZ considered a lot for an upgrade?
I do plan on overclocking but I'm not going to silly degrees. The K series processor and Z87 chipset meet my requirements for fettling but don't break the bank. The high end Z87 boards with LN2 switches and OC panels and breakout boards are ridiculous IMO and that is what I was trying to say I was avoiding. I agree that the processor is probably the part that can save the most money without compromising performance too badly but I really, really want to have the option to sit and play with timings and speeds to get the performance/noise balance I want.
The old rig is the new housing for my server as the mid tower it currently runs in is getting too cramped for all the HDDs.
The AMD cards are great but supply is pretty bad right now as they are good for bitcoin miners (apparently this has also bumped the price up beyond release price) so I want to hold off getting graphics till 2 things happen:
Valve prove that the home game streaming works on both nvidia and AMD cards. (then pick which ever does it best)
AMD and Nvidia do the next energy efficiency respin of current parts (later part of this year)
I do plan on overclocking but I'm not going to silly degrees. The K series processor and Z87 chipset meet my requirements for fettling but don't break the bank. The high end Z87 boards with LN2 switches and OC panels and breakout boards are ridiculous IMO and that is what I was trying to say I was avoiding. I agree that the processor is probably the part that can save the most money without compromising performance too badly but I really, really want to have the option to sit and play with timings and speeds to get the performance/noise balance I want.
The old rig is the new housing for my server as the mid tower it currently runs in is getting too cramped for all the HDDs.
The AMD cards are great but supply is pretty bad right now as they are good for bitcoin miners (apparently this has also bumped the price up beyond release price) so I want to hold off getting graphics till 2 things happen:
Valve prove that the home game streaming works on both nvidia and AMD cards. (then pick which ever does it best)
AMD and Nvidia do the next energy efficiency respin of current parts (later part of this year)
New build suggestions
Current system is an ageing Phenom II X6 and the mobo is on its last legs. Several USB headers are dead on the back panel and it has the occasional hiccup recognising harddrives/cd drives memory etc. Time to put the old girl out to pasture me thinks...
I'm an old school PC user so I do like to fettle but I also have a mortgage so I can't afford to get silly £500 overclocker special motherboards. For now I will hang on to my existing graphics card (7770) but obviously I'll look to replace that some time later in the year. I've also become enamoured with the AIO watercooling setups so my P180 case will have to be passed on and get a case that can accommodate a 240mm rad or two (without surgery). I recently bought more DDR3 memory so that will just be shifted across too (yes it was overspecced at the time of purchase and will be fine for OC).
With that in mind I'm looking at getting:
i5 4670k
Gigabyte Z87-HD3
Antec Kuhler 1220 (would really appreciate feedback from folk that have an AIO 240mm cooler)
Antec Neo Eco 620w (seems to be the same as the HCG but cheaper...?)
Antec P100 case (Corsair Carbide 330R seems a worthy competitor)
As you can tell I'm an Antec fan but in no way have any loyalty to them other than knowing that the case and PSU I got 5 years ago are still great products and going strong so I'm favouring them initially.
That all comes to about £500 in most shops and that is pretty much what I'm aiming on spending. As I said it's about 5 years since my last full build so if anyone has any insight into why this is a good/bad build I'd really like to know. Alternatives to the case and PSU are most pressing as they seem to be the hardest to get any solid review information on. Any review I read is more like a marketing brochure than an actual review.
As a secondary part to this upgrade I'm toying with the idea of getting the new Creative Sound Blaster "Z". The last discrete card I got was an ancient SB Live! but I've noticed that a couple of recent friends builds have noticeably better audio than mine and they have the generation prior. Does the Z represent good value for money or should I look at something else?
And the final part of the upgrade would be a new monitor. My 24" Dell panel is seriously long in the tooth. The BenQ XL2411T seems like a good option and having seen one recently seems to match the claims. Any counter offers?
Cheers
TL;DR?
Getting a new rig, £500, MOBO, CPU, COOLER, CASE and PSU.
Might get a new soundcard and monitor, thoughts?
Thanks
I'm an old school PC user so I do like to fettle but I also have a mortgage so I can't afford to get silly £500 overclocker special motherboards. For now I will hang on to my existing graphics card (7770) but obviously I'll look to replace that some time later in the year. I've also become enamoured with the AIO watercooling setups so my P180 case will have to be passed on and get a case that can accommodate a 240mm rad or two (without surgery). I recently bought more DDR3 memory so that will just be shifted across too (yes it was overspecced at the time of purchase and will be fine for OC).
With that in mind I'm looking at getting:
i5 4670k
Gigabyte Z87-HD3
Antec Kuhler 1220 (would really appreciate feedback from folk that have an AIO 240mm cooler)
Antec Neo Eco 620w (seems to be the same as the HCG but cheaper...?)
Antec P100 case (Corsair Carbide 330R seems a worthy competitor)
As you can tell I'm an Antec fan but in no way have any loyalty to them other than knowing that the case and PSU I got 5 years ago are still great products and going strong so I'm favouring them initially.
That all comes to about £500 in most shops and that is pretty much what I'm aiming on spending. As I said it's about 5 years since my last full build so if anyone has any insight into why this is a good/bad build I'd really like to know. Alternatives to the case and PSU are most pressing as they seem to be the hardest to get any solid review information on. Any review I read is more like a marketing brochure than an actual review.
As a secondary part to this upgrade I'm toying with the idea of getting the new Creative Sound Blaster "Z". The last discrete card I got was an ancient SB Live! but I've noticed that a couple of recent friends builds have noticeably better audio than mine and they have the generation prior. Does the Z represent good value for money or should I look at something else?
And the final part of the upgrade would be a new monitor. My 24" Dell panel is seriously long in the tooth. The BenQ XL2411T seems like a good option and having seen one recently seems to match the claims. Any counter offers?
Cheers
TL;DR?
Getting a new rig, £500, MOBO, CPU, COOLER, CASE and PSU.
Might get a new soundcard and monitor, thoughts?
Thanks
1. Who will win drivers' world championship: Alonso
2. Which team will win constructors' world championship: Redbull
3. Who will score more points in 2013. Bottas or Maldonado: Bottas
4. What is the best race finishing result for Adrian Sutil in 2013: 6th
5. Do you think Sergio Perez will win at least one race in 2013: No
6. Who will score more points in 2013. Hamilton or Rosberg: Hamilton
7. First driver you think will lose his drive during 2013 (miss at least one race): VDG
8. Will Caterham or Marussia score points in 2013: 1 Point to Caterham.
9. Do you think Massa will win at least one race in 2013? No
10. Does Kubica drive F1 car before the last race? No
11: Winner of Australian gp: Hamilton
12. Winner of Monaco gp: Webber
13. How many points will the dwc winning driver have at the end of the season: 290
2. Which team will win constructors' world championship: Redbull
3. Who will score more points in 2013. Bottas or Maldonado: Bottas
4. What is the best race finishing result for Adrian Sutil in 2013: 6th
5. Do you think Sergio Perez will win at least one race in 2013: No
6. Who will score more points in 2013. Hamilton or Rosberg: Hamilton
7. First driver you think will lose his drive during 2013 (miss at least one race): VDG
8. Will Caterham or Marussia score points in 2013: 1 Point to Caterham.
9. Do you think Massa will win at least one race in 2013? No
10. Does Kubica drive F1 car before the last race? No
11: Winner of Australian gp: Hamilton
12. Winner of Monaco gp: Webber
13. How many points will the dwc winning driver have at the end of the season: 290
I've been watching this and it appears that there are 2 Ferrari mechanics giving the car a hug in the middle of the pit stop. They both put one hand on the engine cowling and one in the air hole and the other put his hand in the right side pod. They don't seem to move their hands while they are there so what the hell are they doing?
I love lists.
1. Williams Renault F1 Espace
2. Clio V6 (I just like it ok, in blue)
3. Viper RT/10
4. Jaguar XJ220
5. Bugatti EB110
6. Rolls Royce Phantom II
7. Ferrari 250 GTO
8. Aston DB4
9. Jaguar XJR-9
10. VW Phaeton
1. Williams Renault F1 Espace
2. Clio V6 (I just like it ok, in blue)
3. Viper RT/10
4. Jaguar XJ220
5. Bugatti EB110
6. Rolls Royce Phantom II
7. Ferrari 250 GTO
8. Aston DB4
9. Jaguar XJR-9
10. VW Phaeton
While you are going on about it, care to share where in the source that part is happening?
Everything on the google cloud is open to google to wander through at their will but messages do not get passed through google and will work quite happily when not connected to the internet. Google searches are, of course, tracked by google but all search engines do that so what's the fuss?
It's fun to pick holes in folks arguments and easy to be pious but the truth is there is very little difference between the platforms in any real way except for fringe users.
The fringe users that think it is cool to cobble together their own ROM and compile kernels for fun will prefer the Android route. The people that want a phone that is fashionable and has pretty much all the latest features will get an iphone. Everyone else just gets whatever happens to be appropriate for their needs/budget.
Video calling is not new. The 3 network has supported video calls since its inception all you needed was a phone that supported it. My first phone that could do it was this:
http://deletionpedia.dbatley.c ... eted_29_Apr_2008_at_23:33)
So old the damn thing has been deleted for over 2 years. The apple version is no better and no worse. The only thing stopping video calling taking off is that ultimately it is expensive and crap. Apple have much better marketing than any other phone maker and for some reason people believe the marketing from Apple.
If you are looking for a new phone in this price range then the only advice you need is:
Are you a programmer, interested in open platforms to mess about with?
If you said yes, get an android phone. If you said no, get an iphone. There are no advantages of the Android system to anyone other than geeks that want to mess about unless you are allergic to apples.
http://deletionpedia.dbatley.c ... eted_29_Apr_2008_at_23:33)
So old the damn thing has been deleted for over 2 years. The apple version is no better and no worse. The only thing stopping video calling taking off is that ultimately it is expensive and crap. Apple have much better marketing than any other phone maker and for some reason people believe the marketing from Apple.
If you are looking for a new phone in this price range then the only advice you need is:
Are you a programmer, interested in open platforms to mess about with?
If you said yes, get an android phone. If you said no, get an iphone. There are no advantages of the Android system to anyone other than geeks that want to mess about unless you are allergic to apples.
Anthony Davidson has spoken about this game elsewhere so I guess that is who you mean.
So long as it is better than the current crop of crap racing games where drifting gets you NOS boost or missiles or whatever other blue shell mechanic they want to use for distracting you from racing then I'll be happy. Something along the lines of the arcadeyness of TOCA for PS1 would be good.
So long as it is better than the current crop of crap racing games where drifting gets you NOS boost or missiles or whatever other blue shell mechanic they want to use for distracting you from racing then I'll be happy. Something along the lines of the arcadeyness of TOCA for PS1 would be good.
Bawbag, where in scotland are you. I'm about to move to Edinburgh and was looking at Virgin. Glasgow was a nightmare for Virgin but we had telewest in Edinburgh aeons ago and it was super fast.
Looking at the site and what they are doing I think the pricing is intentional to ensure that only folk that are serious actually take part. If you look at their proposed costing they think that the average monthly cost will be $19 per month over 3 years - including additional content. If that was the case then clearly you can no longer look at it as a game, you join with a very specific idea of the cars and tracks you want to drive and do only those combos until you are good at them. It might be the case that you wouldn't even take a subscription until you knew that there was a 'season' of racing that you were interested in. I don't really think they are interested in the single player component at all. They don't describe the cost as being a purchase of the sim either, it is a service agreement. I'd be interested to see if it manages to keep the wreckers away, I suspect not but it'd be nice to think that at that cost everyone was treating it as it should be.
Yeah the results stand for themselves on this. If Nick and Robert are the only thing holding the team back (to the tune of 30-60 sec a race) then they should get their asses fired. Fact is, BMW are doing really well and making good progress. They will go into next year as the 'dark horse' for the championship. To call them 'as good' or better than McLaren or Ferrari is like saying that if Spyker had the time, money, experience, talent etc they'd be just as good. The championship positions are pretty reasonable and while they do not allow an excellent driver to shine in a poor car (they tend not to flatter a poor driver in a good car) it is normally pretty good at showing the performance of a team over the year. 3rd best is where they are now, maybe next year they'll be able to challenge for top slot or at least a more consistent fight for 2nd.
Was it just me or was the coverage crap? Watching the last sector of each driver was really annoying and then rather than seeing British star Hamiltons lap we get everyone else's times only for Hamilton to have been fastest!?! I expect a bias to the 'home' driver and when I actually wanted one there wasn't, shoddy work. Still the pre race show will have his lap onboard. I hope they show it unfettered from the low front wing position or similar.
On a side note, am I the only one that dislikes seeing the onboard shots of the drivers when they are racing, I mean what am I supposed to get from that kind of shot? Do they think I've forgotten that someone is driving it?
On a side note, am I the only one that dislikes seeing the onboard shots of the drivers when they are racing, I mean what am I supposed to get from that kind of shot? Do they think I've forgotten that someone is driving it?
This is all fine but where is the option for those folk that do that silly cops and robbers nonsense.
It's like buying HL2 and playing hide and seek.
Anyhoo, enjoy what you do but for me it is racing 100%.
It's like buying HL2 and playing hide and seek.
Anyhoo, enjoy what you do but for me it is racing 100%.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG