Wow, this thread does sure bring up the finest crop of this forum. Guys, it's obvious the OP is either ignorant or a troll, but some of the responses here are far worse than the topic post. "Go buy S2", "idiot", "noob" just to name a few. Every time something like this happens it drags down the image of the whole LFS community.

Maybe read that thread again and activate your brain a bit before posting next time. Also this.

Is it so hard to write down what the actual bug is, instead of forcing everyone potentially affected to watch the replay?

And you needed someone to tell you this?

Hey wait, maybe that works.

Face your insanity to overcome it.

Go to the garage and click on the "Car" button on the right.

http://www.lfsmanual.net/
http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/G ... age_Area_and_Car_Settings

Actually "too late" will not cause a problem

If it confuses 3rd with 5th then that is a problem with the shifter though, not with LFS.

Maybe you're simply mis-shifting? If you release the clutch too early or don't depress it enough altogether, then the new gear won't engage and you're stuck in neutral. Your stick is obviously still in the position of the wanted gear, so from the game's point of view it's still like you're applying pressure to get the virtual stick into gear, all that is needed at that point is depressing the clutch enough for the transmission to unload which allows the gear to engage. You only don't notice it as mis-shifting because LFS doesn't play the ugly grinding noise you'd hear at that point in a real car, nor does it model any transmission wear or damage yet.

Unite

Turn down analogue steer smooth (Options > Misc).

It seems you're easily distracted by buttons. Just run the extractor again, but this time restrain yourself from immediately pressing the "Extract" button but take a few seconds to note the install directory directly above aforementioned button. Then you can place your cursor over the "Cancel" button and go hog wild!

Congratulations, you have just found out the install directory! Now you can navigate to it by using a marvellous tool called Explorer™ and double click (that's two fast clicks, ©Microsoft) on the file called "LFS.exe", or just "LFS" if you configured your system to not display file extensions. After that, thanks to the magic of bits and bytes, the application "Live for Speed - online racing simulator" will start up and allow you to explore the mysteries of online competition.

For further questions, please consult the LFS Manual.

Thank you for your attention,
the Management

Did you download the full version Z? Just installing the Z patch into a folder is not enough.

They better ban all computer games quickly, or it will happen again! Also books mentioning war or guns should be banned and subsequently burned. Then jam all TV stations and we can finally live a happy life in flowery sunshine world :hippy:

Hibernation is known to have caused problems with LFS unlocks in the past. It's not from my own experience - I'm just reiterating what Scawen said.

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=165231#post165231

Are you using hibernation mode? If so, do a full reboot of your system and then unlock LFS. When the system was started from the hibernation mode and LFS unlocked at that point, then it sometimes screws with the unlocking mechanism and it resets every time you boot again.

I haven't created coloured buttons myself, but the way I interpret it is that you should use the lowest three bits - C1, C2 and C4 - to create any of the colour values listed below. Just combine them with a bitwise OR like this:

// colour 0 : Nothing
// colour 1 : C1
// colour 2 : C2
// colour 3 : C1 | C2
// colour 4 : C4
// colour 5 : C1 | C4
// colour 6 : C2 | C4
// colour 7 : C1 | C2 | C4

+ of course any of the other bitflags you need.

Picture: http://www.picatom.com/p/111-178.html

Since this is I guess the first time you have a FFB wheel, you're probably just not used to something fighting your inputs

The only challenging thing about AI is that they are wreckers. They don't know how to defend, are relatively predictable and take most corners ridiculously slow, especially when driving in a pack. No it's not "easy" as in I'm sure not everybody can do this, nor do I say this isn't can't be fun, but overtaking a human opponent that you've been battling for several laps is so much more satisfying.

Not only do you need racecraft (being able to race close but not crash / knowing instinctively what your opponent is going to do), skills (to be fast enough to not lose him) and nerves (enough concentration to keep the pressure on), you also have to play mindgames to trick your opponent into a wrong manoeuvre or make him lose his nerves and make an error. The AI is not and will never be comparable to this.

Maybe your ESC key is broken?

Just drive into one of the red-white barriers. Won't take you too long, I promise

LOL, now that you say it, it's actually very apparent. And I was wondering how good the server's connection was since there was no warping as usually seen in MP replays. :doh:

Depending on car and personal preference, a value between 25% and 60% ingame FF is good. Any less is too weak, any more and the wheel just becomes very heavy and kinda "on/off" because the forces max out early. Basically the lower you go (up to a certain point) the greater the range of forces you can feel, though small forces like rumblestrips or grass can feel very weak. The higher you go, the more pronounced the small forces around the centre of steering will be, but as soon as you overturn the wheel a bit and start fighting the tyres all you'll feel is a constant pull into one direction, since the FF motors will work at maximum power and all subtle changes or vibrations are lost due to clipping. With high FF strength you'll also have to make sure to never let go off your wheel, or it will very likely start oscillating around the centre, caused by the lag/slow reaction time of the FF motors.

To verify your FF is working correctly, do two things
1) Get the car into a slide (oversteer) and let go off the wheel - it should automatically try to countersteer and correct the slide.
2) Flip the car so you're lying on the roof - there should be no active resistance to turning whatsoever.

Nice overtakes - you're using a mouse, aren't you? Or maybe an extremely low lock wheel, because that are some impossibly fast wheel movements.