The rev limiter in this game is not realistic at all.
If this game was truly trying to capture a realistic experience:
The racecars would have a removable and changeable limiter.
And the street cars would have a realistic <1000rpm-<100rpm above redline limiter.
Also the limiter would bounce more, instead of "humming" at the speed. When rev limiters cut fuel it causes a longer loss of power. Just download some racing videos until you can hear one.
Also, Many cars, including my previous and my current one, make power all the way to the fuel cut/rev limit. My Honda Legend made over 180whp after the redline of 6300rpm and made it all the way to 7000rpm. My current MX6 makes about 140whp between 7000-8000rpm which isn't even a 10% decrease below the peak HP around ~6000rpm.
Either way the limiter on the street cars should be set to a level before any serious power loss occurs.
If this game was truly trying to capture a realistic experience:
The racecars would have a removable and changeable limiter.
And the street cars would have a realistic <1000rpm-<100rpm above redline limiter.
Also the limiter would bounce more, instead of "humming" at the speed. When rev limiters cut fuel it causes a longer loss of power. Just download some racing videos until you can hear one.
Also, Many cars, including my previous and my current one, make power all the way to the fuel cut/rev limit. My Honda Legend made over 180whp after the redline of 6300rpm and made it all the way to 7000rpm. My current MX6 makes about 140whp between 7000-8000rpm which isn't even a 10% decrease below the peak HP around ~6000rpm.
Either way the limiter on the street cars should be set to a level before any serious power loss occurs.
Last edited by Dethred, .
There are already enough low powered roadsters in the game. And the FZ50 is almost identical to a new Porsche 911 Carrera S in every way but the nose and the tail lights. If you want to race an SUV go buy NFS underground 2.
I wanna see some real (by real I mean over 3.0L displacement) V8, V10, and V12 cars. Enough of these shoddy sport compacts and Turbo 4's. Who cares? There's a reason most servers have the 3 race cars as the only available cars, because they are the most fun to drive. Of course before they make new cars they need to make the sound engine advanced enough to at least compete with 1990's racing games, heck maybe even something from earlier this decade? Who even wants to have any new cars when the ones we have now sound worse than that one Monaco GP racing game from the 80's?
Make sure your chipset, CPU, and AGP (or PCI-E) drivers on your Mobo disk are installed. Make sure you card isn't overheating, etc. Maybe a fresh windows install could solve the problem.
The problem is, most of the looting is not stealing electronics, shoes, clothes, etc. People pushing shopping carts full of junk they don't need to survive. I say shoot them. You can't eat a TV.
But yeah the Shrub addressing the nation sounds like a reassurance that we'll get our gad prices back down, not whether or not we'll save the people in New Orleans. This country truly does suck these days. I thought this hurricane disaster would be a wakeup call to Americans, but we're pretty much just watching it unfold as if it happened in another country.
But yeah the Shrub addressing the nation sounds like a reassurance that we'll get our gad prices back down, not whether or not we'll save the people in New Orleans. This country truly does suck these days. I thought this hurricane disaster would be a wakeup call to Americans, but we're pretty much just watching it unfold as if it happened in another country.
I would be happy with two lanes, no grass on the side of the lanes
open starting, staging, and 60' 1000' R/T etc
open starting, staging, and 60' 1000' R/T etcI am not complaining that you have to take it easy for a while, sheesh. I am stating that it takes too long to clear it off. Also, when you have the brown bar all the way up it takes forever to clear it off, even though the tire wouldn't be picking up a whole lot more dirt after a few rotation on the sand. The max slip should be lower a little bit, and the max amount of dirt shouldn't be more than if you went into a sand trap a few feet. If you go off and have to drive a hundred feet magically the tires are worse off than 10 feet, both of which will completely coat a sticky tire with sand.
And with the Road super, I have personal experience (from messing up big time) with getting both water and mud on the tires. After a small burn out there is no noticable effect, and when they were muddy it wasn't as bad as in LFS with a little dirt. I think this problem is slightly compounded by the physics problems, but that might be fixed.
Also, when I have been drag racing (admittedly on the street) in my buddy's modded LT1 Formula (300whp and 350 torque), his drag radials would pick up sand and dirt from the road after a burn out, and still launch like crazy barely spinning at all. There is a fundamental problem with the dirt model, as well as the grip for clean tires.
The heat model is very flawed. As you will see in F1 racing, during slow driving (i.e. yellow flag) the cars will drive side to side to maintain optimal temp. After spirited driving on the LFS cars, you can slowly drive a 4-6km lap and still have semi-optimal temps without swaying back and forth. The temps rise quickly, but don't drop fast enough.
PS: Whats up with tires starting off at 60*C ? Where on this earth is the temp ~60*C?
And with the Road super, I have personal experience (from messing up big time) with getting both water and mud on the tires. After a small burn out there is no noticable effect, and when they were muddy it wasn't as bad as in LFS with a little dirt. I think this problem is slightly compounded by the physics problems, but that might be fixed.
Also, when I have been drag racing (admittedly on the street) in my buddy's modded LT1 Formula (300whp and 350 torque), his drag radials would pick up sand and dirt from the road after a burn out, and still launch like crazy barely spinning at all. There is a fundamental problem with the dirt model, as well as the grip for clean tires.
The heat model is very flawed. As you will see in F1 racing, during slow driving (i.e. yellow flag) the cars will drive side to side to maintain optimal temp. After spirited driving on the LFS cars, you can slowly drive a 4-6km lap and still have semi-optimal temps without swaying back and forth. The temps rise quickly, but don't drop fast enough.
PS: Whats up with tires starting off at 60*C ? Where on this earth is the temp ~60*C?
Last edited by Dethred, .
Because they don't do a burnout? Why don't real world drivers need to take about a lap to clean off the tires? It just seems to take too darn long, even from personal experiences.
And the tire heat... all the cars I have driven (mostly straight line drag races) have required a burn out to heat the tires, and launching withing about 20-30 seconds before they cool down all the way again, and that's on drag radials. Street performance tires usually take forever to overheat and even then its not like driving on an icy road like in LFS.
And when I am racing in LFS I take practically the exact line for each turn without pushing too hard, and they still overheat after 5-6 laps. On real tires you have to practically drift a lap or two to make the tires too hot.
The tires start off way too hot, the Slicks are the temperature of a hot day in the desert.
I have no info on his onboard gfx but I am guessing its pretty crappy, but it does play the game for a few minutes. He says its mid-race. I don't have anymore info on his computer because I haven't had a chance to look at it for more than a few minutes.
The tire physics are almost like driving on water with racing wet tires, and with dirt on the tires its like driving on snow for a mile. Not only that but even if the tires are cold they pick up dirt that stays for 20-30 seconds. A simple burn out on any set of tires would rid it of practically all the dirt.
And the tires, with a decent setup that can hang with the best of em' will overheat too fast and not come down soon enough.
PS: Tristan, its not too hard, its too unrealistic. And no you're not the stig.
And the tires, with a decent setup that can hang with the best of em' will overheat too fast and not come down soon enough.
PS: Tristan, its not too hard, its too unrealistic. And no you're not the stig.
Tire heat model and dirt model.
The tire heat model is advanced and on the right track but I find myself having to "pussyfoot" a lap every 3-4 laps on the Road Super tires. I am not sure what they are comparable to in real life, but if its a performance radial, or drag radial simulation the tires get too hot too quickly, and don't ease up unless you practically stop for a few minutes.
I have driven several cars at the limit on closed courses and even an autoX, and no matter how hard I push the tires they don't overheat and turn into silly puddy like in LFS.
Heck, my friend's modded LT1 Formula has never gotten to an overheating stage of grip where its almost as bad as having water on the tires. They just seem to go into the red too easily, even with a high pressure setup made to resist the heat buildup. They also lose heat too slowly in my experienced opinion.
Also, the dirt model has the same problem. I spun my dad's GS300 a couple years ago after drifting around a few corners and got the rears in the grass, which was still damp. After a 5-second burnout and one more small slide the tires seemed back to normal. On LFS it seems to take forever and just seems unrealistic.
I have driven several cars at the limit on closed courses and even an autoX, and no matter how hard I push the tires they don't overheat and turn into silly puddy like in LFS.
Heck, my friend's modded LT1 Formula has never gotten to an overheating stage of grip where its almost as bad as having water on the tires. They just seem to go into the red too easily, even with a high pressure setup made to resist the heat buildup. They also lose heat too slowly in my experienced opinion.
Also, the dirt model has the same problem. I spun my dad's GS300 a couple years ago after drifting around a few corners and got the rears in the grass, which was still damp. After a 5-second burnout and one more small slide the tires seemed back to normal. On LFS it seems to take forever and just seems unrealistic.
Friend's LFS demo crashing.
This may seem like a bug but he has a Celeron 2.8Ghz processor and onboard GFX. He can play games like "rise of Nations" on high settings with his onboard Sound and video so is this possibly whats crashing the game? If he can get it to work he'll pay for the S2 license.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG