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Dudles
S3 licensed
I have 2 MS Side Winder, to use 4 pedals and use clutch and HB in the pedals, and i have to say, i think that there's not much difference... because if you wan't to really get you tail out, the HB works only at the maximum pressure of the axle ( when my foot is deep on the floor ) wich is pretty much like pressing a button that applies 100% HB... that using my brake setup... but you can just increase madly your brake pressure in the set, and when pedal braking you have to be careful not to lock everithing up, but your HB will work just fine with a Joystick.

dunno if i'm clear enough... but my english is a bit rubbish.
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from 1303s_vortech : ctrl + page up / down ...?

edit: I gave the mrt gauges a cleaner design, update's soon.

me want it !

you could make one multiplying by 2 the RPM and it'll fit like a glove to the BF1 too...
Dudles
S3 licensed
he said he will TRY.
Dudles
S3 licensed
just amazing the dials the guy did...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Yes... somehow it changed itself to "OutGauge Mode 0"... thanks... gonna try it now... gonna have a look at those other gauges...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Yeah... 1 gauges folder for each car, all of them inside a "gauges folder" in the game folder... came like this... and i can switch between gauges anytime i want as long as they're on... of they torn off ( the way i said above ) it acts like i just have not installed them at all.
Dudles
S3 licensed
even with the 1.0 version, mine just don't work if i change servers... it works on the first but don't works anymore after i change... unless i close and re-open LFS... gonna send a PM to the developer.
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from 1303s_vortech :Making something yourself from start to end is the best way to make it suit your like (cost "some" layers).
Thanks for the tips anyway .

edit:Unfortunately most gauges on these pdf are not the stock ones.

They are a little tweaked because this site is from anItalian Company That makes gauges... i told to look there, because i honestly don't know how to make a gauge from scratch ( a real car one ) and it's difficult to find a good starting image to work with... so there you have a lot of options... and using it you'll have an idea of proportion between the gauges and scale and so on...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from 1303s_vortech :A quick test (EK9-like):
http://gazpa.free.fr/LFS/EK9_Gas_2.jpg

Still in progress...

1 one freshly finished for the mrt, based on bike's gauges,

http://gazpa.free.fr/LFS/Gauges/MRTgauge%20pack.rar

Comments are welcome.

Go to Birba.com, choose the gauge you want ( as if you were going to buy the gauge faces ) then, download the "how to Install" PDF Manual of the particular gauge you want... in the PDF they have the gauge face... you just Print Screen it and put in Photoshop... then you don't have to do all the gauge... and it has A LOT of gauges there... i've done a CRX VTi gauge to LFS using this way. and it's good.
Dudles
S3 licensed
I Think it's only good if you use it at a very low volume, otherwise looks like someone is watching "Twister" in my engine bay...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Mine has a little problem... if i start LFS and go to a server, works perfectly... but if I log out from a server and enter another, AnaGauges no longer show... i have to close LFS and start it again... what could it be ?

P.S.: It started after i tried the head movement thingy that someone posted here, and it uses Insim too... but activated ingame ( typing /insim xxxx ) dunno how to fix it...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from Dudles :Can Anyone make these gauges work for me ? I want someone to do just the programming part, that i couldn't do... background and needle are attached. And a pic of the original cluster wortking attached too...

just added the Turbo and Fuel gauges that in the original cluster are Electroluminescent, then, i can't make the speedo + tach as analog and the Fuel + Turbo work EL... so, i just made them analog too...

The Turbo is the one on top, made it as BAR scale... and the Fuel one is the bottom one, made it Percent scale.

Just did it. Whoever tried, Thanks, but i managed to do it... gonna make a few changes on the turbo and fuel gauges BTW.
Dudles
S3 licensed
Can Anyone make these gauges work for me ? I want someone to do just the programming part, that i couldn't do... background and needle are attached. And a pic of the original cluster wortking attached too...

just added the Turbo and Fuel gauges that in the original cluster are Electroluminescent, then, i can't make the speedo + tach as analog and the Fuel + Turbo work EL... so, i just made them analog too...

The Turbo is the one on top, made it as BAR scale... and the Fuel one is the bottom one, made it Percent scale.
Dudles
S3 licensed
could you post the dimensions of the "box" where the cockpit sits ? evil ideas here... need to know the size of it all together... i mean... the space it'll demand to play in a comfort position...
Dudles
S3 licensed
needs to put powerBand Width and Turbo pressure...
Dudles
S3 licensed
i have not modified the settings.ini ... mopdding just @ LFS Tunbe, the cars become REALLY unbalanced... when you hit the gas, looks like the game is trying to get the wheel off from my hand at any cost... even with only 450 HP...
Dudles
S3 licensed
I ask please, whoever finds the other car's Ini values to make them editable, post up the *.ini file with the new values so dumb ass people as me can edit them aswell :-)
Dudles
S3 licensed
anyone helping ?
Dudles
S3 licensed
Bumping, i have 2 MS Sidewinders... one with and one without FF, and i have a similar error... "DI: Effect - DIERR_UNSUPORTED". Anyone willing to help ? it was after patch X30, and after i installed the 2 sidewinders pmanager programs.
Dudles
S3 licensed
How do I Uninstall it ? because the new patches after FBM entry, are messing up with my gauges, and since there's no updating on AnaGauges, i'd like to take it off... wich i tried by deleting the files and couldn't... it doesn't show, but started to show some red message about some effect not loading... and my FF wheel stays as rock solid to turn it... even inside the car, where the FFB should be working. Don't know if this message has anything to do with AnaGauges, but it started after the patches and after i tried to remove it.
Dudles
S3 licensed
already managed it... had to Install the 4.0version of the SideWinder programs... had to install the FF one and the Non-FF one... thought the FF one could work with both...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Sorry to Bump, but i have a similar problem. Had to format my HD cause upgraded the PC, and as I don't have money to a G25, i Use 2 MS, one w/ FF, one W/o FF, two together, 4 pedals, ok.

But since i formatted the HD, i pluged them In, USB ports, but i don't have the CD that came with them, and windows doesn't configure it as separate axes... please someone help me. Have the software downloaded here but it says it's not compatible with XP.

Found the software, it works, but only with the one With FF... the one without, it simply doesn't work... HEEEEELP MEEE !!!
Last edited by Dudles, .
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from XCNuse :@ Dudles:
Doesn't that defeat the purpose of a "simulator" ?

It's nice to watch it, but that's just because I know how I drive manuals.. not good lol, I've only been given the chance 3 times, years appart each time. The last manual car I drove, a diesel Jetta however I could easily tell if I burned out the clutch.. besides the smell lol.

I hope we see clutch damage though, that is just as important as clutch temperature. The temp can always go down, but you can't replace something that is broken deep inside the engine.


I tell you what though, I hooked up my ACT Labs H shifter yesterday and it is so much fun!
Now it is actually worth the $80 I spent on it!

here in Brazil, i can say 75% of the cars in streets are manuals... so i have driven an Auto gearbox, the same times you've driven Manual ones... and i KNOW how to drive Manuals, both cars at home are manuals, and i drive pretty much everyday, and i say that the clutch don't go boiling in the track like this... I've been on the track at trackdays for an entire day, the clutch wasn't brand new as LFS one is supposed to be when you're starting the race, and it's still running well... no slip at all, and it wasn't like only one day at the track... so i'm saying that it IS an unreal overheat... and because of that, it should be monitored... you have no monitors in a ROAD CAR, but in the race cars, there are monitors even couting how many times you fart in a lap.
Dudles
S3 licensed
Quote from tristancliffe :Why do you NEED to see the clutch temp? If it isn't slipping you're okay, if it is then you must go slower. How does having the bar showing help? Are you extra nasty to your clutch until it's 25% hot, and then become nice to it? Can't you just be nice to it from the start, and not let it get above ~10%?

because if you see WHEN the CT is rising, you can be less agressive so you aren't gonna have slippery clutch during the race, but if you don't see the CT, you keep driving agressive untill it starts to slip... and WHEN it starts to slip, there's no way back... it stays slipping through the entire race, and it slips more and more each lap... so it's more like a prevention... if it's heating, you save the clutch by chilling out a bit when shifting,. and you will have a working clutch all the time... even lapping 1 or 2 seconds more... but if you get it slipping, in the end of the race you'll be lapping 10+secs more then your average laptime... in the end, the CT monitor could make the difference...
Dudles
S3 licensed
Mine's works perfectly... EVEN with FBM.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG