I think you may be misunderstanding the English in your screenshot. The highlighted part can be another way of saying "this person purchased the game for me." Based on that sentence, I do not see any indication he is using a cracked version.
I cannot comment on the content of the video because I did not watch the whole thing.
IPS-type panels are much less prone to that sort of colour distortion. I haven't owned any other type of LCD since my FW900 died. The primary advantage of TN is its speed (primarily colour-change response time, but also input lag and refresh rate support) over IPS, but that advantage is significantly narrowed these days.
Now you can get a really fast IPS-type panel that runs at 100Hz or more, even at resolutions as high as 3440 x 1440.
Around 2005-2007, I had a Sony FW900 24" widescreen CRT (22" LCD equivalent) that ran 1920x1200 @ 100Hz. It was old and the colours were washed out, but it was glorious for playing LFS. xD
Try "button control rate" in the options menu. It's not exactly what you're looking for, but tweaking that value combined with careful button press modulation can result in the desired effect.
The mouse and/or keyboard controls are very different from what you might expect from other racing games. They take some time to get used to.
A wheel is highly recommended for LFS, especially one with force feedback (e.g. Logitech G25/G27/G29). IMO, LFS still has the best force feedback implementation of any racing sim.
It's not like it's hard or time consuming to remove bodywork on a sportbike. I might even suggest things are actually easier to get to on a fully-faired sportbike once you remove the bodywork, compared to a similar naked bike.
This is a bit rude of me so I apologize ahead of time:
You're not exactly setting the world on fire with your lap times. I don't think your experience necessarily invalidates my statement.
Yes, you can get around the track with M+KB, and maybe even set some good hotlaps with sufficient practice. However, I suspect the speed comes much quicker with a wheel, and a wheel is better suited to the precision required for close racing. Additionally, while it may be easier to catch big slides with a mouse, I contend it's easier to prevent slides bad enough to require catching in the first place with a wheel.
I don't know how anyone can drive the open-wheel cars in LFS without a force feedback wheel and pedals. I did alright with a joystick, with throttle on the trigger button and brake on the thumb button, but that was back when we only had 3 cars (what are now known as XFG, XRG, and XRT). Once I bought a wheel, things got a lot easier and I got a lot faster.
Is purchasing such a wheel completely out of the question?
FWIW, a lot of hotlap setups do tend to be very loose. Case in point, my recent race setup for FO8 @ SO5 had an extra degree in the rear wing compared to a hotlap setup a teammate provided me with. Even then, there were places I had to be very careful to avoid oversteer using my race setup.
I wasn't referring to the torque vs. RPM curve, and anyway, an electric motor's torque output decreases as RPM increases, so it's not entirely constant.
I was referring to the torque pulses over the course of a full, 720 degree rotation of the crankshaft, as each cylinder fires.
However, even if I didn't have other plans, I was disinclined to enter the event. IMO, the slalom and kart tracks were just way too tight, requiring I either reconfigure my wheel for less rotation or risk breaking it with the rate of steering necessary.
Thanks, Rony! I'm repeating myself, but this is really my kind of series and I'm very happy you put it together. On top of that, you did a very good job running it, and the race reports are always a fun read.
I'll try to make it to the season end event, and I can't wait for next season!