Right I'm considering getting a year's sub with the current offer ($30 credit) then buying some Class C content, what I'm thinking is:
- Skip Barber
- Mustang
- Mid-Ohio
- Road Atlanta
- Oulton Park
- Watkins Glen
Basically looking for tracks/cars that are used fairly often and fairly easy to drive, not really into oval racing too much, may buy some of that later. Are those any good for a start?
Well different cars have different tyres available depending on what is most suitable. For example road cars only have the "road" tyres, and racing cars only have the race tyres:
Road Super is just a slightly softer (thus faster but lasts a shorter time) version of the Road Normal. Hybrids are a mix of road and rally, and knobbly is for rally.
R1s can be used for races in the MRT and FBM but probably only qualifying in the FOX, you'll want R2s for FOX races. Increasing the number increases the hardness (R5 doesn't exist, R4 is the hardest) and depending on the car and the length. You can run R2/R2 sometimes in an XRR GT3 for example, but on some tracks you'll need an R4/R3 on an FXR. The limiting factor tends to be the achievable tyre temperature and the amount of grip rather than tyre duration. In F1 for example you could feasibly use Super Soft tyres and Hard tyres at the same track, whereas in LFS the difference between the compounds is much larger. Putting R2/R2 on an FXR will mean they overheat incredibly quickly losing you all their grip, whereas putting R3/R3 on an FBM means they will never heat up and you won't have any grip either!
I'm majorly taking back my rant on how crap the Solstice is. Doing a bit of practice (and actually driving it like a RWD car!) and now it drives REALLY nicely. Beautifully balanced and 95% of the time slides are caught easily and intuitively. Got my Okayama Long time down to a 1.49 flat which is only ~1% slower than the really fast guys
Oh dear. I'm sure I read somewhere (probably on the iRacing forum, which would explain alot) that it was FWD. I'll try it again later, but driving it like a RWD and see if that's any better
Thanks. I'll have a try later And yes the SRF definitely sometimes behaves like a FWD car! Yeah I've never drifted the MX-5 with any success.
I just appear to have a massive pace and driving issue with iRacing at the minute. Either I'm a crap driver or LFS has taught me to drive "wrong". Last week there was MX-5 @ Okayama Short, which despite being a shit track was ok, and I was pretty competitive. Multiclass MX-5 @ Laguna Seca was again pretty good, Street Stock at US International was ok depending on the amount of n00bs and the Cadillac I'll come back to. But this week everything has gone really wrong. The MX-5's are at Lime Rock, which is a track I love but I'm woefully uncompetitive mainly because I'm so slow on the exits of corners, people are literally driving straight past me on the main straight. I've tried doing the last corner by shifting before, during and after, flat out, braking, lifting, hard turn in, shallow turn in, gradual turn in, and still people keep overtaking me Multiclass is at Okayama Long which is alright I suppose, and the stocks are at Charlotte, which is the most confusing thing ever. I swear I take the same line through T3 and 4 every lap but I always either exit the turn doing 139mph or 135mph, nothing inbetween. If it's 135 then I'm woefully slow for the whole next straight and I just can't understand why. Add in the fact that speedways are terrifying and there's just cars all over the place means I'm pretty much just letting people past at the moment
I think my road course issues come from the fact that I'm an aggressive driver and like a good front end on a car to throw into the corners, but this really doesn't seem to work on iRacing. Everything just seems to understeer constantly.
Starting with the fixed set Mazda, there's quite alot of understeer and as far as I can tell no real way of fixing it with oversteer, which isn't too bad but I was very surprised to discover that I think it's on slicks and not road tyres!? Because to me it feels like it's definitely NOT on slicks. Definitely becomes a big issue at Lime Rock because I really really can't get the nose turned into the faster corners like the even vaugely fast people do, I just understeer horribly wide, managed to get it sideways a bit a couple of times but then I lose too much speed due to sliding
The non-fixed MX-5 is really horrible to drive, at least with the set I have. The Laguna Seca set was ok, but my Okayama one understeers until you boot the power, and then it spins instantly I'm going to assume that's the setup rather than anything else, although I do find the MX-5 has an alarmingly high tendancy to go into major tank-slappers, which I swear a small-ish car shouldn't have enough inertia to do
Then there's the Solstice which I drove about 4 laps in before deciding it was rubbish. It is FWD right? I was going through T5 at Laguna Seca, had a bit of a slide on so hit the gas, which then INCREASED the yaw angle and I span Never again. And it has stupid gears.
My biggest gripe is with the SRF and most of all the Cadillac, which seem to do the same thing with regards to throttle. Now I have a background in physics and engineering so I know a bit about forces and torques and stuff (but by no means everything, particularly about diffs so please correct me if I'm wrong), but I swear the Caddy behaves very strangely off throttle. My main encounter of this is the final at Laguna Seca. I came into the corner completely neutral (no brake or throttle) and threw the car across the apex, and without applying the brake or throttle the rear came round on me and I span. Now I'm pretty sure that any car should be stable in the yaw sense (my background is planes :P) i.e. that a pure steering input (no throttle/brake) will only result in understeer (or a nice neutral response), not oversteer, particularly for a big heavy car like the Caddy. So how can the front tyres suddenly have so much more grip than the rears? Surely the inertia is going to be mostly at the front (heavy engine, no throttle) resulting in it not wanting to turn, rather than it over-turning? I'm assuming it's something to do with the diff, given that a little bit of throttle seems to cure it somewhat, if not producing vast quantities of understeer again. The SRF also seems to do this (either spin or understeer massively), plus for all cars spins are so not naturally corrected like they are in LFS, I've just now started slamming on the brakes whenever I get even a few degrees of sideslip on in order not to spin
EDIT: And also can someone tell me what good tyre temps are? My tyres were at 150F earlier and I've no idea whether that's hot, cold or indifferent :P (MX-5 btw)
No idea, it's just one I have labelled "BL RX" Literally end of lap 1 I was wondering why on earth it wasn't shifting up any more, turns out I'd run out of gears
So taken the plunge and gone for the one month free trial. Done a few laps in the MX-5 @ Okayama and it feels pretty good. I'm no expert on racing physics (nor do I care that much about how realistic it is, as long as it feels fairly realistic) but the tyre slip seems fairly good, and it seems that the limit is quite easy to find. Doesn't feel quite as good as LFS, but it's a damn sight nicer than rFactor. The weight transfer in the MX-5 feels pretty good (akin to the LX4 in LFS) but then I did a few laps in the Cadillac and that seems very light on its feet, which I thought was a tad strange.
But the biggest surprise for me was actually how easy it is to use. I was expecting to be lost in pages and pages of options (I'm a big one for easy setup, one of the reasons I love LFS so much) but it's really really simple. Thumbs up from me so far
Well it's not like I'll be able to see it outside due to a) the inevitable cloud and b) it's at like 3am here, may be detrimental to my exam performance