Quote from Alexthe1 :

Ok. but is is normal to have above 200 FPS? and when i joina server it say Lost Connection after about 10 sec (On all servers)

Can you clarify whether the issue is ping or not? 200 FPS would prompt me to up my graphics somewhat as you monitor refresh rate won't be that high.... and also you wouldn't notice this increase even if your monitors refresh rate was that high.... 30-60FPS is a good frame rate, anything higher is excellent. With FPS the higher the number the better.

With server ping, this is measured in ms (milliseconds) and generally more 100 is a choppy connection for LFS (i find) but to cause you to be dropped from a server this (again from my own experience) normally has to reach about 500-1000ms ping time....

I would post a Screen of my FPS counter, but firstly it's a clock, not frame rate, second I have it limited to 60, and it doesn't move off 60fps, and finally, I am aware that 1600x1200 as a screen resolution isn't common....

Quote from Ca18Slider :

To quote that, it's the government's fault.

The Metric system is a Stealth tax!

I will just say, try not to get the car sideways over the tyre jump... that'll kill the suspension on the right hand side

Check this out...
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=42584

Sorry it's late but work and all that.....

BTW thats possibly the worse layout Ive ever setup for.... so easy to burn the suspension, even at such a resilient setup....

Quote from senn :

ok here's another question i'll tack onto this thread, for rally setups, i use max ride height, reasonably soft springs (race wise anyway) and average bump and rebound settings but i still get damage going over fairly soft jumps atc usually when landing, surely rally suspension would be tougher than that? (it would break eventually, but not so quickly)

How many laps are you talking about and what car/stage are you running? Also what Anti-Roll setups are you running? I run RallyX setups quite often and have run 100 lap runs even at FE RallyX (the shorter one) with the demanding run and harder drive.... I can send the set if you're interested but it will later today or when I get back from work tomorrow...

By posting it surely that'll be someone making it for you?

What setups do you have right now? I can give you advice on setting one up?

Or did you mean you wanted the values posted here for a setup?

Try this out, see how it feels, give it a tweak...

I have just bashed this together in an evening

Quote from jarmenia :

Yes I have DLed the WR and when I put my line and his line on the track map in LRA or Analyze for speed my line apexes at the same spot his does on most of the turns. Unless I'm completely misreading what these things are telling me. Which isn't totally unlikely.

Ok, it is possible (I've not driven the FOX for a long time) that I am in the wrong if you are apexing where the WR does.

I've had a quick fiddle with the setup and may I ask why there were such extreme values in the steering geometry? (BTW I setup by feel, I've not yet had the honour to download and play with Bobs tools, Having setup the same way for a good few years, I dunno, never tried it, although I'm thinking I might) I've lowered these settings and found more grip (and more rolling resistance unfortunately) but this has allowed to drop the DF and the increase the tyre pressures to make up for it. +7 toe twinned with 12 psi pressures on the rear is the sole reason for those tyres overheating... I do like the low settings in the LSD you haven't been tempted to increase the power lock too far and remove oversteer completely from the vehicle.

The result is that the car is less "twitchy" but quicker through the longer more gentle corners (which KY3 is made up of) Also, as you cut those kerbs quite violently the Anti-Roll and Damper settings seem a touch high, a slight clip of the kerb can launch the car and upset the balance (causing spins under power).

If you want to give this a try and see if you prefer the way it feels, your setup just feels too eager is some places and a little unresponsive in other places....

EDIT: This current setup has the same DF settings as you originally had, even though I did originally have both set 2degs shallower

Jarmenia, just watching th replay now, you are missing a few apexs, and taking them too early in many cases. Also it is VERY important that you enter corners slower and power (ideally full throttle, but that all depends on ths corner and stability) out of them in as straight a line as possible, in the FOX the apex should be the tightest part of the corner (in a steady curve this being the exact middle point.

Have you DL'd a WR replay at all for this track? That should be a good guide to apexes..

Basically, the rear wheels on any FWD will always have issues with being significantly colder than the fronts, personally I have no problems with this as it generally reduces pit time and I prefer "oversteery" cars anyway, hence why I drive low locking diffs.

The hybrids, as they warm up quicker, will probably offer more stability, personally I like using road tyres and flattening the camber a little, gives decent grip at low speed and does't hinder the straightline

Quote from bonafernando :

or make a golf gti and i'm happy

:doh::banghead:

What we need are different cars from the ones already in S2.... the 60's 70's European lightweight sports cars was a good idea, these should fit between the XFG/XRG and TBO classes I think, Also the V8s, maybe some European small high-revving V6, possibly a brutish V12 as well, I mean I would like to see a 4WD rotary competitor to the UF1, maybe a rotary TBO class car too, and something with a carb-style power-band, huge lump of torque lower down the revs allowing for less BHP but a more gruntier launch pad?

The family car/SUV option is one I'm not keen on, nor am I too keen on a monster/funny/dragster scene, but these certainly fuel more desire than a Veyron (or Veryrong) style of car that in essence would be the only car of its class.:duck:

Personally, though, if we didn't get another car introduced in S3 (which will be a long way off anyway) I wouldn't be that disappointed. Already there is a large number of cars that suit almost all driving styles, I would love to have a Hillclimb track, though. Say a mountainous alpine road, or somewhere based on Lake District, maybe even Pikes Peak-esque, with some alternate routes (and the ability to autocross set them, and have an almost infinite number of tracks from one map) And some decent lightweight RWDs would work on that sort of run very well.

Actually I have to say here, apart from Fern Bay I do drive shift+F mode on most servers, I obviously allow flags to be shown (unless I'm watching replays).

I think for league races and such like there should be a server option for it, it would give the serious (observant) drivers and edge, i think, after all, I can see when a tyre is running warm by the smoke in my rear views, as am I always aware of how sluggish/enthusiastic my steering (due to tyre temps) and can tell when the slightest bit of my car gets twisted. Ok, so for the people who can't tell having this info might be good for post-race analysis, I would like to see rather than the live view (at least in the road cars and club-class racers) a pit-bench datalogging system that gives things like G-Force, acceleration and speed. For me (who has spent many hours looking at this sort of data) this would be as useful as a live data reading during a replay.... in fact more useful, because it will show more anomalous results easier... But again maybe this can be kept to league qualifiers or something?

Quote from russraine :

Thief is silly, should know that you'd get more money stealing a Nintendo Wii.

Lols, Nah to be honest the copy of GTA 4 would have got even more

There is a lot said that a firm setup won't make a huge difference in the performance of the driver, now in cars like the LX6 and the RAC this is true, too an extent, however, with Single Seaters the aerodynamics of the car can cost even the best driver several seconds a lap, even around circuits as short as South City Sprint 2

I have actually been making setups for a while (and testing other peoples setups for them) and although I have only been dealing with DF and SingleSeaters most recently... (I've still not made a serious GTR setup) I find that perhaps the most important place to start is with the gears and aero setup of a WR set, for instance it can sometimes help to sacrifice top speed for a bit more corner traction, so if you're ever out friendly racing people always ask for a setup, and study it well.

Also, it has stated here many times, but it is possibly the most important thing about setups, you need to test them to destruction, drive as close as you can to the edge, see how the car reacts to it. Another thing, always have a different set for qualifying (or sprinting) from your standard race (endurance) setup. The last thing you need during a race is overheating tyres and loss of traction (especially on the back end).

It has been an excellent weekend, Thanks guys for organising the league. A little disappointing that some chose to push the hot-lap line in qualifying, I don't think it will happen with the FO8 as it's a quicker car and benefits from the banking more than the FBM

Anyway, thanks guys, I certainly appreciate that you guys take time out of your precious weekends to do this for us:clapclap:

Quote from Shotglass :

im fairly sure its counts per inch on a 2 foot high sundial at noon in greenwich during the summer solstice

Thats a good one

Seriously, though, BHP or W, lbft. or Nm, this is a discussion that has no end... Imperial is a system that defines its units by their uses, metric is a system that defines its units to a set of physical rules. As long as they are both used, they will both be about.....

Back to talking about why more powerful with wider tyres and 5 star NCAP ratings are actually slower than their '80s and '90s counterparts...

Quote from Bob Smith :

I believe it comes on where the curves cross, so is quite accurate in that regard. Seeing that tho rev limiters were reduced in a recent patch, and it most of the cars slower, I'd say those high revs were indeed useful.

I dunno, I thought the drop in speed on the cars was a more accurate model of engine inertia and transmission drag?

Nah, I always find I get better pull from these car just changing up anything from 500 to a full 1000rpm earlier than the shift light:eclipsee_

Quote from Bob Smith :

60,000,000,000 cpm or more generically, billions of cycles per minute.

I feel it would be stating the obvious to mention that the imperial system was never designed for modern engineering tasks, as such in certain applications it is unsuitable. This horse is dead. Leave your flogging utensils at home.

Actually, this whole thread is a bit of a dead horse....

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I refuse to call people who use this mod hackers...I have some level of respect for hackers, as they have a decent level of skill. But people who use this aren't hackers, they just downloaded a program someone else made. They're idiots...

I didn't in any way want to suggest that him installing this speed-hack made in any way anything like (for instance myself, I am currently pulling a clean install of the game apart and playing with CMX models) real hackers/programmers... What word would you use to describe (apart from cheating bar stewards) using the speed hack?

Quote from Bob Smith :

By definition, most common values can be more easily related to in imperial units than metric. Although familiarity goes a long way to reducing this difference, and modern lifestyles and technology makes the conveniences of some imperial definitions disappear. Mathematically, SI is far simpler to deal with, although with the possible exception of the metre, completely arbitrary. That does not mean that imperial units were not good in their time, nor that they are necessarily any worse now either.

Ok, just quickly, the metre was actually the result of a miscalculation, if I remember my history lessons correctly. The Metre was meant to a millionth of the worlds circumference, thus 1000kms would take you round the world once.

Quote :

Hopefully worms are now back on the can: please continue with the topic.

Agreed, lets get back to explaining why the power values of the cars in LFS should stay as they are. As a general rule of thumb, it has only been very recently that "hot hatches" such as the Golf GTi and the Civic type R have had more than 200bhp at the flywheel. Most of this increased power is also lost long before it reaches the wheels. For instance my CR-X is running 140bhp, it can beat a new Mustang GT to 80mph and back again, it'll actually corner better and accelerate quicker than both the new Type R and the 250bhp Golf GTi, the two reasons for this is first off there is nothing the CR-X that isn't needed by a semi-decent driver (for instance Power-steering or ABS) there are few luxuries (you get a tape player, not a CD changing GPS or Aircon) and there are no traction or power-based driver aids. Instead you get vacuum assisted brakes and a fairly heavy clutch useful for dropping off the line...

You could increase the power of these cars, but to be accurate you'd have to add a lot of weight to them too, which would probably hinder the performance over all as the bhp/ton is about the same but you hit the corners with more momentum. (For example the Caterham R500 cornering and the Veyron cornering, the R500 can scrub off the speed much quicker and keep the grip at higher speeds)

Well, I got curious (I know, cats and everything) and actually went to this "Fat Oil"s server, and to be honest, I was soo glad I couldn't get in and it was full. I did, however, have a good chat with the fella and he was very nice, told me where to get the mod, suggested I come back.

I said nah, rather than destroying the tyres on and XRG and have it just slide sideways and get well over 40k drift points for a single corner I'd go and try to drift an LX6... more challenging, and fairer. He was all very nice to me actually...

Shame really, because I don't doubt if he wasn't a speed-hacking whatnot he might actually make a good racer... But I personally dont see the attraction, the server was a mess, people all over the place and everytime a hacker came down the BL1 straight the server was spammed with "Clear the track, I'm coming through"

Quote from russraine :

I had a great race, had a very long first stint and leap frogged into second place, then engine damage struck and my speed really dropped, 3rd place guy over took me, then spun and took me off track and down into 6th place - pretty peed off about that. Over all though I deserved second or third and I'm pleased with my performance, had some good battles too whilst leading with Andy behind.

Nah, I deserved 3rd, hehe, well, maybe fifth, I hope that on the last few laps when I came and attacked everyone I didn't upset people on the way round? As I have said, after the BSOD five minutes before race start I was too eager to just get on track, left my fuel settings at 8% start and 10% pit..... 4 bloody pit stops It was a good race guys, thanks for the league.

Quote from Bob Smith :

I'd argue that instability (did you typo unstable?) at high speeds would be due to a front bias in the aero distribution. So more rear wing/less front would be needed. If you wings are set too low at both ends, this would cause corner speeds to drop, and you'd find, with all the extra straight line speed, you would be braking a lot more compared to someone with wing angles optimised for the particular combo.

I did mean instability, yea, my bad.

I guess it depends whether we're talking oversteer instability or just at high speeds. Obviously the higher the speed the more you should notice the DF (ie the ride a little lower, the pressure on the tyres a little higher) but if you have both ends lose grip (ie a 4 wheel drift) thats instability due to not enough DF on both front and rear??

And due to a drop in tyre grip over momentum this is more likely at higher speeds, this what I was trying to get at with that post...

Give this a good hard 50 lap run and see how you feel it handles, I think it feels ok, but then A. I don't drive GTR and B. this is your setup... PS grab me on MSN Instant Mess Generator ([email protected]) if you want to chase this up more closely