During the second part of the chicane do you get a nice satisfying (or not) slide going through? I would agree, one of the worse things you can do is keep the car low, you're just gonna end up (because the weight will still shift, but suspension won't react) only having one side of grip.
Also, what sort of powerload does the understeer come in at? Remember your diff settings also affect the amount of grip when cornering. Ultimately, though, you want the compress slower than it decompresses to avoid grounding the car and losing grip completely down one side.
EDIT:
It's definately not a case of flipping a coin to work out what you need to do, possibly the best thing when dealing with suspension is to start with the default hard track setup (a nice place to start) on the skid pad/autocross/BL carpark and just tweak it while driving around testing different settings. Also, try and avoid using locked differentials when working out grip levels and suspension responses. A locked diff leads to understeer/oversteer in very bizarre places.
Right, here they are, an open diff setup for SO1 and likewise a low-locking Clutchpack setup for SO1 (both work in reverse, too, unlike most setups going around) Have a play with them see if you can improve them, note how they comfortably do 10 laps without running the tyres above 65 degrees...
I agree almost completely with everything here said. I'm afraid, if it's not a land rover, it shouldn't be locked. Remove locked diffs completely, they're not needed with this level of physics being thrown at the cars. Also, i agree with the bizarre FWD/AWD suspension setups (that quite possibly have just survived the patches). Everywhere I go playing TBO class cars and GT2 class cars, I hear the same thing
Previously I put it down to driving style, but yea, looking at their setups, they always have locked setups, and the tyres don't last more than 5 laps, even taking the thing gently around the skid pad....
Locked Diffs are fine for drag setups, you can get away with them in off-road and drift setups, but for a responsive track car that doesn't chew up tyres? It's gotta be more open. In fact, the FXO is stable enough to have open diffs IMO...
EDIT: I will be posting an FXO setup with an open diff when i get home from work.....
Now, we're being a little unfair there, just because it was built with a
kids engineering set and fell apart in the greatly unlikely event that it actually started. It's stylish and in a sim environment where you take away reliability issues and engineering faults it would be a perfect car.
Which again, being British, and built during the labour strikes and having been designed by people who thought hi tech was using a spark to ignite the fuel, rather than relying on pressure alone, suffered it's setbacks. But, bot cars are irresistibly stylish, very powerful and great fun (while they lasted).
There are only two more cars I'd like to see, first a balanced rival to the UF1 (I think the most fun car on LFS) and second a (possibly mid engined) lightweight sports car, similar to the RaceAbout but less powerful and lighter, think Triumph stag (which would sort you V8 boys out) or the legendary GT6. The biggest thing I'd like to have in the next installment would be all rough tracks, preferably in a stage with time attacks only. It would sort the men from the boys and stop all this pointless T1 talk.....
Ady
EDIT: I am aware that both the Stag and GT6 are front engined, but I learnt to drive in a GT6 and it will always have a place in my list of top ten cars. Alternately something the other end of the spectrum, with the weight and power of the FZ50 like maybe an Interceptor
Ok, the engine damage is fairly accurate, I tried this out myself and the cars which incurred little to no damage rather than just over cooking the engine actually lost grip with the road. The reason being the engine had the power/weight to overcome the friction coefficient between the tyre and the road. The fact that these are RWD cars merely adds to the effect as the weight is transferred to the front wheels as it slows. The UF1, FXO and XFG which seem to take the most damage are relatively low power to weight ratio vehicles and are FWD, meaning the tyres not only grip the road far more than the stopping power of the engine, but as the car slows down the grip factor increases.
A couple of factors I would like to see make it into LFS (although possibly not for a while) is clutch wear, especially on the heavier engined cars, and coolant overheating.