1 20-30 lap setup on it's way...

Quote from Calvinaquino :

Modern newer cars are coming with more assists, automatic trasmission and more power...
that is soo much boring...

here where i live, its said you have skill if you can keep up a good speed in an uphill with a 1000cc car =D

(i must have alot of skill, i drive a 100cc motorbike )

this is a bit of non-subject, if you want more power choose a faster can on the list..

Why increase the power of the XFG? Just drive the FXO?

But also know that these 1980s based cars will be lighter than their modern equivalent. Seeing as they will have much smaller crumple zones, aribags, aircon, abs and such like, the cars (apart from maybe the FXO, but I still reckon thats just the fastest TBO down to ease of driving, myself) are fairly well balanced and have their own strengths and weaknesses in different places.


Upping the power of any of the cars will cause issues somewhere else, either an inbalance of classes or a new class to be created.

Quote from NSX_FReeDoM :

hmm something like an 550bhp NSX would be great.
or anything wif an engine in the middle and rear wheel drive.
but PLEASE.
dont make it handle like the RAC. its aweful
something like a F430 would be great.
actually. 430 Scuderia would be even better.

The RAC handles fantastically, as long as you either blip the throttle or change down later... it's got a beautiful balance that makes it just amazing through corners, soo grippy for its power.

I've said once, I'll say again,

Stag! (well stag-a-like obviously, and without the reliability issues...)

Maybe a nice lightweight small engine sports car, like the MGB or Elan?

Something that with only 1.6-1.8 engine but only weighs a shade more than the LX cars and will keep up with the TBOs around the corners especially, and to go with the new car a set of hillclimb tracks, hehe

I'd like to see more mid engined cars myself, and more club-class racing cars. Also a 300-400bhp rally machine would be a nice addition...

I think I can probable knock one up when I get back to my PC, it might be after the OLFSL Race today now, as my sundays are generally quite busy

Quote from bbman :

Stop this false myth, they will NOT unless you do something wrong... Like, staying on the throttle while rolling backwards with autoclutch on...

If you disable the autoclutch (which will help shifting times btw), you'll have no problems whatsoever, as the car stalls before there is any noticeable heat...

My apologies.... I am using autoclutch until I get my DFP back... but of course this isn't an issue for me as I keep my cars going forward...

I'm sorry, please don't hurt me

But still the tyres will get all but destroyed after a spin on track

Yea, this certainly doesn't make a cheater out of these guys, as to the letter of the rules it's not quite clear whether it's allowed, I personally translated it as "only drive on the track part of the track" but I'm not a hot-lapper and as such wouldn't have noticed that the apron there is allowed by HLVC.

It's an odd one, I guess because the FBM is quite low powered and the track is primarily made for much higher speeds? What sort of times are we speaking? How much does this save? /I am away from the LFS PC/

Quote from marzman :

Some say it's not true. But if it is true, you could inform driver when he passes start/finish. That's a few 100 meters at most on most circuits.
I doubt that. Bikers uses these for communication and i don't think the average biker is that much richer then a racer.
Why should you always know your position anyway? If you remove it from the topright it won't always be that clear. Especially in long races where you can't know in what lap all the other racers are.

What about a friend or an other racer that has his race later that day? But if the game changes the way you would like it you would have to get out of your car twice in a 3 hour race to change all the tires, fill it with gas and hammer some dents out all by yourself. I hope that day will never come

These are all fair enough points, but the point Tristan was getting at (i beleive, having raced Caterhams myself) is most club racers will go so far as even put themselves in debt purely looking after the car. I know there have been several nasty repair bills for my car. The cost to run the caterham for a standard 12 race season was about 6 thousand pounds. Now that was incident free and didn't include actually buying the car, thats just fuel, wear and tear, club membership, league fees, travel and paddock rental. I'm not sure about Tristans' experience, but I would expect it to be similar, so add on to that the cost of the car, any unexpected repair bills, it's not a cheap pass-time. The benefits of the telemetry and radio system, for example, don't come anywhere near the benefits of actually being able to replace a part on the car with a brand new part as opposed to a refurbished bit pinched from a scrapyard...

And with regards to having someone in the pits/on the pitwall waiting for you to come round, yea, you try dragging your missus 800 miles for a weekend where she sits and watches you drive around, fiddle with the car, drive around, fiddle some more, drive around, come off the track. They will only EVER do that once...

Quote from GobLox :

Forces are not influenced by gravity; masses are.

Actually, it's the mass that isn't affected by gravity, weight(force) is a result of gravity

Mass is the volume of the unit multipled by its density... for instance 1g = 1cc x 1cc/g

For instance 1g of water is 1g of water whether here, in space or on jupiter.

However lbs (weight) being the result of gravity are partial to changes in global variations. (So ladies, always weigh yourselves around midday on a new moon).

The imperial measurement for mass is called a slug, and in stadard conditions (gravity being 9.8N/kg or 9.8m/s^2) is 32lbs. Alternately you can use lbM (pound-mass) which is a 1/32 of a slug (making it a lb on earth)


EDIT: And stones are a measure of force....

Last edited by Kamrock, Sun, 4 May 2008 06:29.

Quote from _Rob_ :

GTi lookalike = 1984-92 Suzuki Swift


1.3, 101bhp. 101bhp isn't too far from 115....

And the 20v 4age engine (toyota), is 1.6 litres, and produced 158 when introduced in 1991. So 100bhp/litre was possible back then (even with 16 valves, e.g Honda B16, producing 160-170bhp back in the early 90s, from a 1.6)

Agreed, I have a 1988 (yep, 20 years old now) CR-X with a D16a9 engine in it and at last dyno run (completely stock, but with a new bottom end) it was still pushing 141bhp (originally quote 135bhp)

The ultimate setup is to have the gears (and driver) setup so that you change up when the acceleration in your current gear dips just below the acceleration in the next gear up. But this of course just assumes that you get your transmission curve right in the first place. I am working on some power/torque curves based on a cars performance as this is something I've always wanted...

@jarmenia - what sort of racing are you looking to do? I'm a fairly accomplished drag/caterham racer IRL and I have been able to help people iron out issues in their driving styles after watching a few laps.

Would you be able to send me a replay of you doing say 10 laps around the track you're having issues with?


EDIT:
Also, someone mentioned the red light being the ultimate time to change up? Personal experience has lead me to beleive this is not so, I find it far too high in most cars, including the XFG the FXO and the RB4 as three examples...

Last edited by Kamrock, Sun, 4 May 2008 04:01.

Have you got a good WR setup for this combo at all? I can knock one up for you but it'll take a day or so as I don't usually drive GTRs, it's either TT or SS for me..

Also, by Endurance what are we talking? CTRA Endurance day isn't an endurance race.

So what would the traits you'd require? High ride height (for the jumps) off-road tyres and presumably fairly close gears?

Quote from monkeejr1 :

how you do burnouts?!

sorry noob Question

I very nearly ignored this thread... I now wish I had.... lols

What, may I ask, is the burnout for? Tyre temps? Stick the big old knobbly ones on the back of an XRT, make the suspension nice and hard, and follow the above.

Alternatively the LX cars are good for wheel spinning, also the BF1 or FO8.

The UFR will spin fairly ferociously with an aggressive start too, pull the handbrake on hard and bang, lots of tyre smoke and no front tyres in 30 seconds flat....

Quote from Bob Smith :

For picking wing angles, I always use something that gives me about the same top speed at the end of the longest straight as what the WR lap manages. Let somebody else do the testing as to what the optimum settings are.

This is probably the best advice you can get, I tend to treat the wings like a mix between the gears and the dampers... you need to ensure that the amount of DF doesn't hinder your top speed doesn't allow you to overcook the back ( Single seaters can (and will) burn out clutches and tyres in just one spin) and keeps the from end tight enough to belt through the corners without getting understeer.

Understeer, your front/rear DF ratio is too low, ie raise the front/lower the back..

Oversteer, your front/rear DF ratio is too high, reverse the above

Being overtaken on a flat-out straight, both are too high

Becoming unable at high speeds, both are too low.

I'm sure you realised all of this but I will mention it again as this rather simplistic view of it all is fairly accurate, take for example, the FBM on westhill, because Westhill is a VERY fast circuit and in the FBM there are only two points where you won't be in at least 5th gear, thr DF on the front can be quite low, but you want a fairly decent rear DF figure to keep the grip up through the long fast corners...

Aston Cadet, however, is much different affair, the slower top speed of the track allows you to lower the back end DF, but the (quite tight) mid-speed corners require a bit more front end DF, and as the top speed is fairly low you can also sacrafice a bit more top end to gain grip through the corners.

Does this help?

Use a lower lock level on the Limited Slip, it might mean your corner exit speed is a little lower, but then at the same time, pit every three laps or take a 2 second a lap hit on ext speeds? Otherwise I can't really say anything that hasn't been said.

Camber angle if the heat is just on one edge of the tyre, also a lot can be said about just turning the wheel enough to take the corner, and remember it's better to take the first part of the corner more gently and power out as straight as you can....

I can suggest a new ISP/Webhosting company, lols....

I only happen to work for them....

With a fairly low locking (below 50%) LSD instead of locked diff, and gentle steering I can get the tyres to last about 40 laps on an FXO, you do sacrifice a little speed, but lets face it, on all but the tightest Autocross tracks the FXO has power and speed to spare in comparison to the other TBO cars.

Use a clutchpack LSD with 35% lock under power and 25% under coast with a preload of around 70Nm and certainly 30 laps is easily done, do this and you will experience tyre wear as opposed to just overheating... But most important is to steer gently

Try this mate, as I say, I can't be doing with all that sideways tyre burning malarky!

Enjoy

Quote from flymike91 :

o and btw don't clutch kick the rb4, it dies

MAXI LOLS

Four wheel snap FTW!!!

Just wind the centre diff to 100% rear.... RWD RB4 lol

Lol, I can reimburse you a drift setup, but it'll be designed, not tested, my throttle control is not yet good enough for drifting

Ok, when changing a setup I normally name the setup with it's major trait(fault), the last item changed and the edition number... FI: XFG_SO1_238_os_cmbr

Long file names, but it works, and yes, I do have more than 238 XFG SO1 setups that I really ought to clean up, the benefit is most are hidden from view as I only keep 10 setups for each track in the folder....

Ok, I was actually thinking of tightening the rear up to increase the oversteer myself. Intrigued over your thoughts on corner exit traction, but of course the open diff will be lower than the clutch pack. I generally found the setup quite quick, especially in the hairpin-chicane sequence of SO1. I've not noticed the suspension bottoming out myself, but I'll increase the height in the front and maybe up the spring slightly.

And yes, the arse-dragging rear camber is nice through the hairpin, isn't it...

I am going to play with the setup right now, I might try losing some ARB on the rear although that oversteer twitch is a really nice feature. Right I'm off to get my low 51s times

Keep us informed, Dude. And don't give up skinning, at least not until you've finished my OLFSL skins, hehe

Generally I don't, if I can think of something that needs changing, I normally create a new setup and change it in that.