Cheers. May have to run the wire under floor so i can have Sub under bed, and control on desk :S

Quote from Tweaker :

You can control all of that. At low volumes just change the sub amount. Very easy to do with the volume control or the remote.

Yes the sub is enormous, but who cares, it is some quality stuff .

Oh and Bob, yes most consumer speaker systems aren't the best, but this and a few other 5.1 systems have great reviews and the quality is comparable to a quality/expensive system. Crisp output from the satellites, and the bass is not distorted at high volume like most systems. All I could find was good reviews about these speakers, which is why I bought them --- oh and to mask the sound of that annoying dog that barks for hours on end occassionally in the middle of the day :zombie:

Cheers. I will be purchasing these closer to christmas, and can get them from Amazon.co.uk for £198 inc postage.

Thanks for all your help, and god help next door when they come.

(One thing which is putting me off is where to put the sub. Will i still get the best from it if i place it behind me under my bed?? Im just stuck where to put it, as i dont want to spill anything down the very large heat sink on the back.


Cheers

How long is the wire from the Sub to the control pannel thing??

Last edited by marsden1002, Tue 8 Nov 2005, 09:46.

Quote from Breizh :

I've had the Z560 hooked up to an Audigy2 since they came out, and yes, it's more than enough to attract noise violations (in any country no doubt) without going past the 50% mark on the volume knob. The woofer on my setup is similar if not the same as that on yours, and the only complaint I'd have is that it's a little muddy. The mid and higher bass ranges get a little drowned out, but like Bob said, it depends how you set up it and/or its environment. And if you can play with an EQ, like in the Audigy sound card, it's really easy to fix with a little fiddling. I can count on the fingers of one hand the movie sounds or music that saturate when played loud.. It's a pretty good bass box. You should have control of both bass and volume on the speakers, in windows/your sound card and on the player application as well, so there's plenty of flexibility to suit your needs/taste.

Thanks. Just seen a picture from a review, and the sub is massive (pic attached). Also, ive just had my bedroom re-decorated, and it says within the instructions, Dont place within 2 feet of any electrical equipment because of the strong magnets :S

Last edited by marsden1002, Mon 7 Nov 2005, 14:25.

Quote from Bob Smith :

Surely that depends on how loud you turn it up anyway? I've got a Mordaunt Short MS309 subwoofer, that's got a 10 inch driver powered by a 150w amp and I'd say it's fairly discreet once setup properly.

Crossover, volume and a notch filter to help integrate it with the rest of my system. It sits on spikes so it doesn't vibrate the floor or walls (thus making it sound better). Although in my old house it did make my cupboard door rattle during the ship scene in Chronicles of Riddick. Unless you listen to R'N'B I can't see music doing that though as it doesn't have the depth of bass.

To the topic, the Z5500 has a 188w amp so should be able to do similar levels of volume, but the lack of spikes provided IS going to be a problem. Also subs are very particular to room placement, so it depends on what sort of resonances you're going to get.

While at the higher end of the PC speaker spectrum (£190 for the whole surround set), it's not going to compare to proper audio gear, and cheap subs in particular are often less than pleasant. But I have to say when browsing I haven't found a bad review of it. Also since it's part of a package you shouldn't need to worry about integration. So long as you understand that subs DON'T have to be run at maximum volume they seem like a sensible purchase.

I want loud, but i also want good sound quality at low volumes, where the sub is not too over powering, but when i need it too be very loud and bassy it can be,

Cheers,

Quote from al heeley :

Actually I don't believe you. Load of traffic lights are timer-controlled only, some are a combination of proximity sensor and timer. I don't believe the sensor is able to be triggered by a blue flashing light from one of the services, I've seen dozens of police/ambulance/fire vehicles rushing through red sets of traffic lights round here up north, and down in the south, so obviously the sensors don't work, otherwise the rescue vehicle would have made the lights go green!
If this was 1st April, then I could understand your post a bit better.

Most UK lights are timer during the day, and sensor during night.

This might work, but ill have to try it sometime

Hi,

Just wondering if any one has this product - The Beast z5500


If any of you have, can you tell me if you have had any complaints from next door ?? and is the system really that loud.

Read one review and he said he had a noise violation notice, because he had knocked off 10 pictures from next doors wall through the subwoofer vibrating the walls.



Cheers,

Marsden1002

Quote from Sk0rp :

According to that I would like to have technical failures like engine-blowups, gear change problems and something like that. The frequenzy of the failures should be ajusttable from the server site.

Nope. Failures should only happen when bad driving is taking place, or cars are run hard for long period of time

Quote from Stellios :

You are kidding, the FXO and FXR are probably the easiest cars in their catagories to drive.

if we can have TC and ABS, let the TC be at different levels ie like a sports mode button so it gives you more freedom. Just an idea

Quote from Fonnybone :

I don't think any new car you buy today will crap out from revving it a bit too
high in neutral. Let's not exagerate. At high rpm ok, but in the first half of
available rpm, i don't think you can do any damage unless it's a very sensitive
engine like a hi-tuned version or something.

If you put a brick on the throttle then you are giving it more gas than the max
rpm anyways, so you are basically telling it to go as high at it physically can,
which usually means damage. Hitting the rev limiter in neutral on purpose and
staying there for 5 seconds i agree, you are surely not doing any good.

As for the drag engines, don't those get rebuild after each race anyways ?
As a lot of racing engines do....

Well. My foot was flat to the floor, and thats when the RPM limiter kicks in. Dont think this will do damage as the car has only done 5K

Quote from Dethred :

The rev limiter in this game is not realistic at all.

If this game was truly trying to capture a realistic experience:

The racecars would have a removable and changeable limiter.
And the street cars would have a realistic <1000rpm-<100rpm above redline limiter.

Also the limiter would bounce more, instead of "humming" at the speed. When rev limiters cut fuel it causes a longer loss of power. Just download some racing videos until you can hear one.

Also, Many cars, including my previous and my current one, make power all the way to the fuel cut/rev limit. My Honda Legend made over 180whp after the redline of 6300rpm and made it all the way to 7000rpm. My current MX6 makes about 140whp between 7000-8000rpm which isn't even a 10% decrease below the peak HP around ~6000rpm.

Either way the limiter on the street cars should be set to a level before any serious power loss occurs.

Check my post out. Got an IS200 on the rev limiter. (at standstill)

Quote from tristancliffe :

Lol. People who say you can saefly rev an engine for 5 seconds with no load on it amuse me. With no load, the conrods are under messive stresses, and it will NOT be good for the engine.

Also, revving an engine with no load on it (neutral for example), like boyidiots (oops, I mean boyracers) do in car parks tells you NOTHING about a car. You cannot EVER tune a car, or fix a misfire, or diagnose ANYTHING by revving it with no load.

Also there is NEVER an advantage to hitting a rev limiter whilst driving. If you do it just means lost time, never ever gained time (the rev limiter will momentarily cut power, losing acceleration and losing speed. Always always always better to shift before the limiter, although how much is defined by the torque curve (don't look at power curves here, they tell you nothing). You need the torque curve and the gearing to tell you when to shift, and how fast the car will be at any given moment.

The rev limiter is there to stop the engine getting to dangerous revs. You can hold a car on the limiter for more than 5 minuites without it causing major damage. Its more damaging if you hold it when the engine is over reving.

They sure do. In the video you can see its slightly into red before the limiter kicks in. Just before this limiter is the peek power of my car, so why does LFS have a limiter around 4K past peek power@

Quote from tristancliffe :

How to ruin an engine in 1 easy step. Rev it more than about 3000rpm with no load on it.

If you change gear in time you won't know what the revlimiter is like. Besides, I think there are MANY more important changes LFS needs before we worry about how realistic the rev limiter is.

Wont ruin a car if its not there than more than 5 seconds. Most boyracers hold it on rev limiter then dump the cluch to gain a massive wheel spin

Also, Its not done that many miles, and it sure sounds good when its being put right throu the rev range

Last edited by marsden1002, Sat 15 Oct 2005, 09:33.

Hi,

I know this has been discused loads before, but the rev limiters need to be more real life. Below is a link, of a Lexus IS200 on the rev limiter at standstill.


Video quality is crap (from a mobile phone) and you will need to turn sound up quite loud.

http://www.ajmarsden.co.uk/LFS/Rev limiter_NEW.avi

Cheers,

Copy the above link into your browser!!

Quote from SladiVadi :

Take a look at the monitor you want to buy. Forget response times. No TFT can even dream about being fast but it's all a matter of taste.

A Respone time does matter. A response time of 12 or below is very good. I have a Philips 17" TFT and is very good. Also look for the amount of colours - think 16.9M is very good,


Thanks all!!

Quote from Tweaker :

The engine damage is a kinda quirky, seems almost all the cars aren't very prone to getting it.

My friend who really loved S1 just got back into playing S2, and his main gripe about the new version is that the engine damage was gone. In S1 he really disliked the throttle blippers, and felt that you really should be required to lift off the throttle in most cases, especially when using the clutch manually. But.... now everyone is just flat-shifting and I really never see engine damage really.

In S1 it was nice, I loved it, you actually noticed the power difference. Now, in some cars you can get engine damage (only a select few) and I still can get fast times. I'd really like to see the engine damage back to the way it was before.

There is no point in flat shifting. Its slower than letting off, changing gear then going back on the power.

Does any one have any videos about Heal and Toe braking (sorry to go off subject) as i would like to learn this skill!

Quote from ajp71 :

Oval racing can be fun occasionally but I have no idea why this server is the most popular with such noobish admins.

Why is an Admin "Noobish" becuase they have placed a set of rules, and because people do not follow they get kicked or banned?

This is not noobish, and i have raced on this server over a period of 1 month, and not been kicked - simply because i have not broke the simple rules.

Quote from speedfreak227 :

i bought a new computer 2 weeks ago and i was having random reboots as well. my comp has been at the shop ever since. :o(

they can't find the problem.

speedfreak227

I used to have this, and my system is only a year old. Might be even a dodgy OS install. Another prob i have, is sometimes when i click "Leave" on a online race, it quits LFS - Any ideas?

Quote from ramtech :

ok then..
ever been in a Subaru Impreza WRX? or a Mitsubishi EVO? or a Skyline? they all do fshhhhhhhhhhhhhh most of the time

Yes they do. You can hear turbo boosting, but all i heard when i went in a Evo, was the engine working its arse off. And they are damm fast cars

Quote from the_angry_angel :

Many people, especially in the computer industry start with 2 at work. Once you start realizing how efficient it is when you're coding, or comparing servers, etc. etc. you know that you need them at home. Theres more dual screenies out there than you think, but its not mainstream yet.

As for this suggestion, I'm not too hot on the idea; stats can distract the driver. A rearview on the other screen would kill all but the best graphics cards. You'd then be rendering at least 3 view points, if you run the real mirrors, you'd be rendering 5 (assuming each mirror has its own view). Its certainly a lot of work for Scawen, if its possible to do in this manner.

I was just sujesting a rear view as an idea. I know it would kill my car, but i think a screen to show stats would be could. The race map, tryes, fuel, and the other stats you have on your screen.

Dont think this would kill the graphics too much, as its just displaying what is normally on screen

1280 X 1024 on my 17" TFT.

I was on another server, and was sorted 1 hour later. Is this a bug, or a minor problem with the hardware they use?>

Is there any LFS tax disk holders or anything around.

Think im going to have my number plate have LFSWorld.com on the bottom

Im for it. I get confused with all the different names for the cars.

I would love manufactors names for every car, but what to call each one thats the problem!

right. Think the devs should help us out here as i have just had the same problem. Server has kicked me for whatever reason, and my username is still online.

HELP!!