if the axis you had previously selected was centered(like a steering wheel axis, combined brake/throttle axis, or an analog stick from a gamepad) it would stay at 50% clutch engagement
i don't know if you tested your pedals and wheel in the axis selection mode but you can press pedals etc. in that view to see which number is for which axis
In the singleplayer menu when youre selecting track/cars/ai there is a option to allow car reset which fixes all the damage on top middle of the screen. The command /canreset=yes can be also used on track or online if you have admin access on a server
I have to stop in and comment please don't use WD40 on electronics and potentiometers as it makes the problems worse over time after the residue left behind has collected enough dirt and dust specks. Contact cleaner or denaturated alcohol is very good for cleaning out pots and let it dry or blast it with air to dry it faster.
And i'm speaking from experience, too.
I think the issue here however is what Tazka mentioned, depending on the wire that gets loose it will start reading only one gate(e.g 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th and 6th) on all of the gates. I also had this issue a long time ago and it's one of the more common problems of G25 shifter which was somewhat better when they ditched out the sequential/h-gate switch and mechanics.
I think NTO, LFSTweak etc. could work with mods as they use the same car classes as default LFS cars do(not sure but atleast the naming is very similar), though there is no lfstweak for the current patch. You wouldnt get the detailed adjustments like demo cars would have but instead the cartype editor with power/torque multipliers, max gears, redline, weight modifier etc.
I would imagine it working online if its being run on a server with the modifier tag
It is very plausible some assets used with SRP project are from these arcade games which have much more modern rendition of the famous parts but i don't think it includes parking areas such as daikoku futo(but then again i havent followed any of this close and heard some accusations a long time ago, can't really find these models if i wanted also to compare with so for me they are just accusations still)
But yea i've also enjoyed driving it around a lot and tbh its probably one of the better free roam places to drive fast and have some challenge as well
That's pretty much a drop in the ocean, there is hundreds of sites hosting track/car mods for AC that go unchecked. For example, i think you know reason why the vastly popular SRP Wangan will never be posted on RD? It'll always happen, there is always someone who will want to put the least effort humanly possible to enjoy favourite tracks or using them to boost ego or anything else in between.
Even BeamNG has a lot of mods with ripped models that will never get posted in the official repository but are hosted in other various sites And i'm fine with people personally using them but using these rips for profit is where i would draw the line.
I don't deny there is a lot of modders that create amazing things from scratch, but they are very outnumbered in comparison to the amount of people that just take the shortest path possible.
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Qualifying
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): ~4 minutes remaining on period
Car(s) involved: 51, 2
Location of Incident: Turns 6 & 7
Brief Description of Incident: 51 stays on track after his fast laps and has an issue that impedes with 2's 2nd hotlap
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 4
Car(s) involved: 16, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 9
Brief Description of Incident: bit optimistic pass here running me into the wall
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 6
Car(s) involved: 18, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 8
Brief Description of Incident: 18 defends but lifts off right in front of 2 face without any time/room to react
The pictures are enough (atleast for me) to see the faulty part (pictures 11, 12), that usually is the culprit in any logitech shifter related issue. In most cases a cleaning and checking the wire connections to the pot should be enough, i had a wire broken off on my old G25 shifter which worked until i sold it (unfortunately though i bought mine for 210 euro and got 150 euro out of it ). From what i've heard these new shifters are somehow worse than G27, and from my experience G27 shifter is a lot sturdier than 25's due to less moving internal parts. Your shifter is still reading all the gears normally but disengaging one of them so maybe it might go away with a proper clean and checking/securing wiring.
It's not just less quality though but the shifter sold separately is probably one of the dumbest ideas Logitech came up with in my opinion, whilst keeping the wheel/pedal set at around the same prices as 27 were new. I dunno the idea behind it but the wheel sets should come with a shifter and perhaps could be sold separately alongside and maybe with a direct usb connection if people want a cheap shifter to accompany some better wheels. Oh well, can't do anything about it to be fair
I'm still rocking with the G27 as well. Funny thing is that the wheel unit failed on me so i bought another one as a spare but i've been using the pedals and shifter from the first one because they just work
No clue why it says mcpherson, but this is the "exploded view" (dunno if thats right word sorry) of the front suspension setup on all of the 2101-2107 models
I owned a '89 2105 and a '96 2104, on the latter i changed the front axle beam due to the previous one rusting through and splitting in half on driver side near the lower control arm (see the attached pic for reason why it rusted through )
my 2105 had a 1.5 carb engine and 2104 had 1.7 with 1-point injection
depends on model year, im not actually sure but i think highest available engine for this was also the 1.7 but i can be wrong (it has almost twice the power anyways)
front is double wishbone, trailing arm works ok on rear