Quote from juggle :

just picked up myG25 today woohoo

very smooth action on wheel pedals are superb with good weighting, gear selector also accurate. All components havew agood quality feel. ill post more as i get used to it..

*extreme levels of jealousy*

Looking forward to hearing your opinion as a consumer . I can't wait until someone has it near me... Come on Amazon... I need it!

I belive it . Good stuff, heh. My only regreat is my lack of license, and thus my lack of ability to steward... Hrm, you know, if the position is still empty (doubtful) by the time I get my license (soon), I'll apply. Just to let you know that there is interest floating about . Also, being a new to S2, I wouldn't have any bias! heh.

A friend of mine hosts a demo server I admin on, and generally we feel that we shouldn't allow restarts for the most part. Let people deal with their own antics into T-1 (If we see anyone purposly wrecking, being demo, we just ban them right off the bat, so T-1 usually isn't that bad).

Because most of the regulars on our server know this, they don't dive into T-1 with the intent of First or Bust. To help the non-regulars, the server owner occasionally hits his macro that says "Race will NOT restart because of T-1! Drive safe! ". And should there be a big T-1 Accident, most people learn after a few races to take it easy. Because of that, we've had a lot of really clean starts into T-1 on the server, because people don't try to book it on cold(er) tires.

That said, if its just the two of us on the grid, and we're just doing out eight millionth Blackwood lap, and someone joins and votes for a restart, we usually go with it. Afterall, its fun to race with new people .

On the flip side, however, I'd like to make a point. A lot of servers run 5 lap sprints. For the shorter tracks like Blackwood in the XRT (when dealing with consistant racers, so few mistakes), first into T-1 usually is enough to keep you in front the whole race. Reason being, passing a consistant racer is difficult, unless you make a ballsy move that, when it fails, results in you wrecking anyways (thus promoting less clean, more dangerous races). I suspect this would be less of an issue on the longer circuits, but thats just theortical thinking. Thats why when I start hosting when I get S2, I think I'm going for longer 10-15 lap runs .

Possibly, but then I'd have to A-Mount it at a funny angle, B-Learn to write a Force-Feedback program so it'll act like a handbrake (IE, go up with a tug and stay there, but I have to push a button to 'deactivate' the FF to push it back down). It just seemed easier to learn how pots work, gut my now-usless MomoRacing pedals, and build a mechanism that does it mechanically rather than relying on behavioral software.

LOL. Thats pretty funny. I was thinking about periodicly adding things to my racing rig once I get my wheel in (G25... Come on!), such as a handbrake lever (I'd have to design it somehow. Its on my to-do list to figure out how), or a multi-moniter setup...

But a horn! GAH! Why didn't I think of that?! Man, now I've gotta look into adding one to the G25 .

P.S.
I like your racing rig , looks fun!

I have the video, so I'll see what I can do about uploading it to google or U-Tube as soon as I can compile the credits for who made the thing, and as permission from those who made it.

IMHO, however, its not too much to look that that can't be described. Just an intro with a bunch of cars running around (essentually, it shows the 'best moments' of one of the leagues, rounds 1-4), and at the end has a big League logo that hovers for a moment before fading out.

Sorta like at the start of your broadcast, but instead of "South City, Sprint I" have something more particular to your league (Yes, I know its on the top . I'm just claifying what I think he was suggesting).

Quote from Leifde :

EDIT: Here's the PSD with the badges and logo which will be required for next season. If you do not have photoshop then please PM me and I will add it to your skin. I have added it to Soki's skin already so you can see where the badges and logo go so you can clear room for it on your skin

Are we allowed to edit the design of the badges (if not the exact placement) while keeping the context in our skins? Or do you want us to use that particular badge? It just seems kinda, plain . No offense intended. Plus with stretching it looks like it will be realllllly wide...

And it looks like I slept in too late again to make the demo league. Oops. I'll have to commit for next season. Hopefully.

Thats weird. I downloaded it in roughly an hour, which probably put it in the 100kb/s range. Ish. I wasn't paying tooo much attention. I started downloaded, saw the Estimated time, and cooked/ate dinner. Came back an hour and five minutes later, it was done.

Sadly though, my ISP blocks Torrents somehow (ports issue I suspect), and I never got the urge to figure out what was wrong and fix it. So I can't host it for you, sorry.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

Don't we seem to have acquired lot of new racers in the last couple of months?

Has there been some major publicity recently in the wider gaming world or are they sim racers coming from other sims?

Having joined August first (a month and a half ago!) I belive I fall into that catagory!

Speaking for myself, personally, I didn't come from another racing game. I was, infact, talking to a Finnish friend of mine on a diffrent game entirely, and she mentioned it as being a highly realistic simulator. I liked cars already . I downloaded it, was interested, and forgot about it for a week. A week later, I found my old wheel, plugged it in, feel in love...
:lovies3d:

As for everyone else, I have no idea how they found LFS, because I'm not then. But a poll sounds like a good idea...

Quote from Funnybear :

Again, let me reiterate, a top notch job. And I will be wanting to be racing myself in the league pretty soon just so I can hear Tristan say 'Funnybear' over the T'interweb.

Heh. Though, funnybear, I suspect (judging by everyone else's names) you'll have to modify yours a little (Such as, F. Bear), so I doubt he'll say your full name. Though, I'll admit, it would be funny to hear .

Then again, maybe they'll let you stick out with the full name. Afterall, it is their race, they can do what they want .

I've seen some of those views before, so I know they're possible (through custom camera work I'd wager), but if they were actually hard coded camera locations (with favorite keys!) it would make people like Becky's job a lot easier.

It might also encourage more dynamic video work (I've notice a few people's 'first videos' are a little lacking in such). On the flip side, however, some people might complain that giving more than 2 or 3 pre-set cameras for cars might encourage people to use less custom camera work...

Personally, I think it would be a cool idea, but then again, my opinion is likely null and void until I shell out my 24 pounds (OT: Blasted exchange rate. Thats $45.06 right now. Oh well, it was up to $45.16 earlier today. Heh, I think its kinda funny that, for me, it really -does- become cheaper depending on when I buy it! Hrm. I'll have to ask around what exchange rate pay-pal uses on credit cards. Then I might be able to actually pay less for the game one day than another, whill the devs still get the same amount of money, heh. But should the day my wheel arrives comes, and I'm still licenseless, I'll be shelling out anything below $60 to get it, heh).

I was watching (again ) and I suddenly had an idea for improvement.

Now, this being a sim, its mostly understood that not all of the camera shots would be possible in real life. This of course make sense, use what you have access to!

However, the in car views (34:33 - 34:40, noteably), the camera bobs around while inside the car... I don't play with cameras very much, but is it possible to elimite the bob? I would think it has to do with the g-forces (under the options menu) exerted on the car, but being at work rather than home, I can't test this.

I would think a Camera, IRL, would be mounted so as it wouldn't bob, but remain in a fixed position inside the car (so I guess a little bob and roll would be needed, because the cars pitch/roll under high-g braking/cornering, depending on the suspension). I mean, it wasn't such a big deal that it bothered me, but I guessed suggestions for improvement might be welcome

And note, if it isn't possible to eliminate it, oh well *shrug*. It still looks really nice.

All I can say, personally, is Wow .

Things like this make it possible to go through day after day until I can get my new wheel (old one broke, and I'll be getting S2 at the same time!). It was really great too! I especially liked the bits with the replays, rather than always having the camera in the right place at the right time. But thats just me .

Also, Tristan, I think you did a fine job (especially for a first time!). Also, as that was your first time viewing the footage, I think it helped make sure you didn't inadvertantly spoil any outcome in the race. As a final note, after watching the video for a while, I found myself forgetting it was a Sim Race (probably more possible for me, who has never driven in South City, than most of you)! You even started to sound very professional as you got into it!

Kudos to everyone involved, from racers, to server hosts, to video directors, to commentators!

And Jakg, its a shame about that little problem you had at the end. I couldn't quite figure out what happened until you mentioned the recallibration issue. But that J-Turn recovery helped you keep onto 2nd place, and was really quick reaction time on your part. You may not have gotten first, but I don't think anyone will hold it against you.

Thanks again to everyone involved for giving 40 minutes of my work time purpose .

Quote from Rtsbasic :

Wonder if the shifter will be any good or not..apparently the ones they had a few months ago felt pretty sloppy.

From what I understand, the ones they had about at the time were demonstration models, not production models. One of the goals of it was to take notes on 'areas for improvement', and because everyone complained about the shifter...

Lets just hope Logitech listened

On noticing that Geekseek's website had an actual release date posted on it, I went looking at other distributors (in the US), such as Amazon and the like. A shame, none of them have a release date . And the logitech website just says 'october' (which, actually, geekseek says its really late september. Global? European? Or are the distributors mis-informed?).

I really hope its the beginning of october (or end of september!) that it's released, rather than sometime mid- to late-Oeptember. I've been wheelless too long. I'd probably also end up buying both the wheel and my license at the same time, hehe. Spend the days while I'm waiting for my wheel to arrive... Well, wishing my wheel was here. Me and my mouse don't agree so-far as racing is concerned.

Maybe I'll use the time to perfectly setup my wheel so its comfortable, natural, and situated in a custom built desk . Hrm... My uncle does carpentry...

Curious...

I don't have my S2 license yet, but when I do, I've a few computers laying around (as well as a sever attached to a T-1 line at work that wouldn't miss a bit of processing power ) that I'll probably install deticated servers onto. And when I do, I'm planning on joining the wrecker barricade . (As it stands now, I have to manually kick/ban people from my friend's server. He only runs it when me or him are around admining, so we have clean racing most of the time. But we've actually gotten a few regular visitors!)

Anyways, my question is, when I join... What about all the people previously added to the list? Do I get a massive spam of e-mails about every wrecking inccident prior to the date I sign up, or will I only get e-mails henceforth (and thus, not block people banned on several other servers because of their history of wrecking)?

Because we're already talking about drafting, I have a few questions about it . Essentually, I know it is implemented in the game, but how much of 'drafting' is modeled?

What about when two cars are side by side? Wouldn't the air flow, rather than increasing speed (drafting), actually cause the two side-by-side cars to go slower because of the small space you're pushing air into?

Also, does drafting reduce the drag, and thus increase the speed, on the lead car as well?

I'd test these out myself, but I don't really have a very accurate way of messuring it at all, so I guess I'm more asking what your observations are.

Quote from Bob Smith :

I've quit my job now (back to Uni you see) so free time is no in abundance. All I need is a little motivation.

Motivation hrm? Anything we can do to help?

I found your guide about setups very informative, and I've used that as a basis for all of my three cars I can tweak and configure... Can't wait until I get the rest, but for now I've still got plenty of speed to squeeze out of my cars. I even use your easy-going setups as a base, dispite the fact that you claim their not as good as they should be because of the physics updates.

Hrm. About the oil, I probably won't go for race or motorsports oils (as Bal00 suggested), dispite my plans to autocross with the car. The reason being, I'm not all that sure how often I'll be able to get it out to autocross in, seeing as I haven't found any sort of schedule or anything for autocrossing that happens more often than a month. I think a day where I drive the car hard per month isn't enough to warrent motorsports engine oil for the other 29-30 days in the month.

But on Vain's other points...
I'll want new tires soon, but is that just because of wear, or more for performance reasons? I mean, if the tires that come with the car are already pretty decent as far as performance, is there any real reason I'd want to change them?

Quote from Vain :

1. I can't imagin a way to keep water away other than keeping the car dry.

Heh, well I ment more along the lines of, 'what can be done to the car if I know its going to be wet to minimize the effect of the wetness'. I'm really thinking about cleaning out that garage now because of it too. The only downfall, moving a garage full of boxes to my fiberglass insulation filled attic with no floorboards (so I'll have to bring up and lay down plywood sheets). But I think it'll be worth it. Plus it'll keep the sun from beatting down to hard on the paint, which although it has nothing to do with performance, it'll at least help keep it looking nice .

EDIT:
I was just thinking, about the wet...
I was thinking about how brake pads heat up during braking, and how rotors probably would also heat up, as the pad heats up because of the friction between the two. What sort of effect would, say, rain water touching the rotors and brake pads during heavy braking have?
To illustrate an example, say I'm driving, and its raining. Because of road conditions, there is a puddle on the road that I wasn't aware of until the car in front of me hit it hard. In order to prevent hitting him, I would probably slow down if I couldn't change lanes, and depending on the effect of the water on his car (I've had my car go from 30 to 15 when I hit a puddle I didn't see once, because it was raining so hard my visibility had dropped a good deal. And I didn't let off any gas pressure when I hit the puddle) I may have to brake pretty hard. If I do a hard brake to avoid hitting him, then hit the puddle, what would happen to my brake pads and rotors? Anything seriously bad? (The only solution to preventing this to happen that I can think of, is avoid driving in the rain, so I'll probably just have to deal with it if it ever does happen)

Last edited by Shinrar, Mon 4 Sep 2006, 23:22. Reason : had a thought...

And now for my long winded reply

In reply to:

Bal00-
Wow, thanks for the very informative reply. Some of it I actually didn't know! Yay! I learned something! A few questions though (anyone else can answer if they know...).

• Under tires, you mentioned avoiding slip. Do tires that hydroplane at all (I've had a few instances when I wasn't paying attention when I stop, and I put my drive tires in standing water... When I applied gas, there was a bit of wheel spin) wear tires a considerable amount? I know it would (I think) wear less than a wheelspin on dry asphault or tarmac, but is the wear on tires something significant, or negligable?
  
• Under Transmission, you mentioned avoiding driveline shock. Would blipping the throttle on downshift be something worth learning for street speeds, or is the transmission designed to take that particular level of shock without a real care in the world?
  
• Under Maintainance, you gave a little lesson on Oil changes. I'm going to talk to my dealer mechanic for my current car (who won't be the same mechanic for my new car, as it'll be a diffrent brand. Diffrent dealer) about oil longevity, because what you say makes sense (my dad's caddilac has an oil-life sensor, and when we oil change its usually in the 60-70% remaining range, which I always found odd). I'll have to read what the fine print in the warrenty says about oil changes (incase it might void it if I 'neglect' it too long), but would you say performance oils last more or less time than non-performance oils? And assuming the oil I use has an effect on the 'threshold' you mentioned, what would be a good way to caclulate when to change it? Would it say on the bottle, or should I knock a thousand or so off whatever the bottle says?

Becky Rose-
Hehe. Thats what I do with my car right now . I hear a squeeky sound, I drive it to the dealer (they know me by sight and car I'm there so often for repairs/maintance ). I say, it squeeks, he says, It'll be ready tommorrow (or in some cases, longer). I return on designated date, pick up car, pay money, and drive home. Its a good system, but my goal is to avoid the need for its usage as much as possible.

tristiancliffe-
Honestly, I was really looking forward to your opinion. I've been lurking on the fourms for a while, and you've shown a rather impressive ability to justify what you say with reasons, factual and logical. As for what you said, it'll be a new car so I don't have to worry too much about previous owner's miscare for the car.

Also, about the braking, is there some sort of 'give zone' in the brake where the lights will come on, but the brakes won't be engauged yet? Is it possible to add something similar? On my bike, I usually engine brake and just lightly tap my rear brake (slowly applying more and more pressure as I slow down, releasing right before I stop) for the sole purpose of brake lights.

And about engine braking... Is it better for the wear to engine brake without any brake use, or brake without any engine brake use (clutch pressed or car in neutral). I suspect a moderation of the two would be the ideal match, but I was curious as to which was 'better' for the car.

z3r0c00l-
As much fun as that sounds, I don't have a place to do any sort of work on my car, nor do I have the nessisary tools to do it right. My parent's garage is filled with... stuff... lots of stuff (what is it with us Americans using garages to store stuff rather than storing cars? Is that a US weirdo thing, or is it global?). And yes, I have to do it in my garage rather than outside. Its too hot to work outside for long periods of time , and my garage is air conditioned.

Also, the manual will tell me where everything is, where everything goes, but not how to fix anything, so I need a teacher as well . Maybe in the future, but for now, I'm stuck with the overtime and paying someone else to fix it.

pb32000-
The goal isn't to make everything last as long as possible, it is to keep the car in prime shape without replacing everything or leaving it sitting by learning how to take care of it in the mean time, so when I do autocross, I can get it's best performance.

Vain-
Uh oh. It rains almost -all- the time where I live. Seriously, they call Florida the sunshine state, and we get insane levels of rain. I think I read somewhere that florida has a historical rainfall level ranging from 34 inches to 89 inches (just to show that our state can't make up it's mind). I might be able to park it in the garage (if I get it cleaned before December), but thats not very likely. Plus, most parking lots are in the open, and I'll probably drive in the rain a lot... Is there something that can minimize the effect of rain on the car?

As far as the tires, I'm probably going to keep the OME tires on the car, because thats just what I do. I might invest more money in the future on better tires, but I doubt I'll change the size.

Transmission... You said a lot, how do I know if it is or isn't made for fast performance shifting? Is there some way to tell?

The power steering thing I didn't know, Thanks!

wheel4hummer-
Me too. I spend a good deal of my time in the car muttering about how stupid people are, tapping their brakes going down a road just because someone 10-15 car lengths ahead of them changed lanes.

STROBE-
I belive what tristian was saying, was not 'don't use the brakes', but rather, 'use the brakes with meaning'. Tapping, or applying a feather's weight in force, would cause the brakes to perform less well when you need them. But its good advice none-the-less.

herki-
Ohh... gearbox oil. That never crossed my mind. Going to look into that right now.

Thanks

I just wanted to say that, as I'm actually heading out the door right now (Labor Day festivities! Yay?), so I'll have to post a more indepth reply later (or, if no-one else replies, edit this one).

Just one other thing before I go

I don't really expect it to last forever. I'm not that delusional (maybe...), heh. However, my goal was to learn how to treat my car 'right' so that when I roll it over to autocross, I don't have parts dropping out of my undercarrage. I figure if I'm going to push it hard once in a while, I might as well treat it to good care the rest of it's time.

And its going to be a new car, thus, with a dealer warrenty (I saw a few comments on used cars). I was going more along the lines of after said warrenty expires (or becomes invalid because I forgot to read the fine print and did something stupid).

A quick comment on the 3,000 miles thing... Really? My old car (the PT Cruiser) has, in the almost six years I've had it, 80,000 miles on it, and its gotten to the point where things break on a regular basis (actually, right now under brakage, I hear periodic rubbing from them in what seems to be timed with my wheel spins. I think it might be my rotor?). For example, my air just had to be fixed, twice, for two diffrent reasons, about a month ago. But I live in florida, so dang it, I want my air to work!

Brakes... That reminds me...
Performance braking aside, what about, er, economy braking I guess? What sort of braking habbits will keep my brake pads for wearing out too quicky (an issue I've had as long as I've been driving)?

Greetings ! (Man that sounds cheesy....)

In the near future (It is looking to be december-ish) I am taking a rather large step (for myself) in my life. I plan on purchasing my very first car! Now, this isn't to say that its the first car I've ever been in. I've driven a large variety of vehicles (everyone in my family has diffrent tastes), from RWD Trucks to FWD coupes and sedans, motorbikes (Harley Davidson), New cars, older cars, Automatics, Manuels...

However, this will be the first car that, essentually, is mine. And I'm feeling very... enthusiastic about that prospect! However, I am very aware that cars themselves don't last forever. Their parts wear down, things get old and need to be replaced, and eventually it will reach a point where it looks nicer than it runs.

Thus, in order to ensure my car has a wonderful, long lasting life, I have come to you all for advice! It is my hopes that someone out there knows enough about car engines, either from lots of research, from fixing them, or even building them, that they'll be able to give me the advice that I need... Now, it has taken me long enough to get to my final question, so I think I'll make a beeline for it right now.

What can I do, from driving style changes, to maintance, to anything and everything inbetween and beyond, to keep my car long lived? Now, my reason for this (beyond the obvious financial) is that I plan on my car partisipating in motorsport events. Probably nothing more serious than autocross, but it is still a motorsport event that will put a good deal of strain on my car. In order to ensure that the car and it's parts within are in top enough shape that nothing will break on me without notice, I want to know what I can do in the meantime to ensure the wear is greatly reduced on the car's parts.

For a more indepth breakdown of what I'm asking...

Tires-
Obviously, stomping on the accelerator isn't good for them. Obviously yanking the wheel so hard that I understeer isn't good for them. The question is, beyond the obvious, is there anything I can do to ensure longer treadlife for my tires? Things in reguard to: Road conditions (avoid the potholes!), weather conditions (special considerations for rainy weather? How about windy?), and general driving habbits I suspect might be a good start...

Suspension-
In the car I learned to drive in, and still drive in to this day... Well, I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the way I drive, but I've had to have two suspension parts replaced since Jan of 2001 (when we got the car). I can't remember what either was, but I remember the first had to deal with the steering (Grr... I should remember what that was called). Is there anything that can be done in terms of driving style and the like that could ensure my suspension stays healthy? Aside from avoiding hitting things like potholes and curbs, what else can be done to help ensure that when I take it to an autocross event, something won't already be nearly worn out from mear road driving? (I know that its never 100% sure NOT to fail on me, but my goal is to ensure that the odds are as much in my favor as is under my control)

Engine & Transmission-
Now, here is probably where me, as the driver, has a bit more overall effect on how it lasts. It, sadly enough, is also the area I'm the most fuzzy on whats good an whats bad. The red line is bad, I know that. Getting to the redline isn't quite as bad, as long as I don't hover right under it for long amounts of time. Obviously, every car is diffrent as to where the RPMs should hover around (I think), so rather than specific advice of any sort, I'm fishing for guidelines here... Would it be better to keep the RPMs as low as possible (without lugging or stalling the engine)? Or is there an ideal range (The Torque band maybe? Would that also help with fuel effeciency in any way?)? Er, worth mention, I'm talking about a manual transmission, with the good ol' H-Stick and Clutch.

Maintance-
Regular maintance is a given, I suspect. But a few questions about that... Every 3,000 miles is when I bring my current car is. Is that already pushing it? What if I brought it in in less? Or is that already well in the safe zone, assuming people will double or even triple that without thought? Should I bring it to the Dealership's garage, and swallow their higher prices for assurance that they have access to everything they need to know about the car?



I realize that changes to my driving style will probably be very difficult to change, which is why I'm seeking advice several months before I get the car. This way, I can try to adapt the changes with my current car. Then, when I change to my new car (which will be radically diffrent in... everything), because I'll have to 'learn' to drive all over again, I can ensure that I incorperate my adjusted habbits to ensure the car a long and healthy life .

A few notes that, I suspect, are worth mention:
I live in South Florida. This means my climate is often in the 85 to 100º F tempature range (29.4-37.8º C). Also, the weather year round is a mix between intensive sunlight, and lots and lots of rain (So its very humid mostly year round). I live about 9 miles (I just messured. Yay for google earth ) from the shore line, if that matters at all. Also, living in a state which is essentually flat, wind can be pretty strong (I once saw a line of side-by-side cars all thrown a lane to the right in the middle of a highway. Then again, that was right before a hurricane...).

My current car is a 2001 Chrystler PT Cruiser, which is a FWD Automatic blue hunk of metal I've probably done more damage to than I realize, seeing as it is what I drove as I learned to drive (and I dare say my Adolesent nature did more damage to it that I realize. I'm 19 now, so I ran through that period of "I'm better than everyone else" as I floored it everywhere I went, weaving through traffic).

The new car will be a Manual transmission, RWD, and I'm not going to say which car it is. Kinda embarrashed about that...

Anyways.... Thank you very much for reading my insanely long post. I hope someone out there has some advice for me! Perhaps someone else will read it too, and maybe, just maybe, there will be a few cars that last a few years longer than they would have otherwise...

Bufalo,
Also, I know more than one person was iffy about the lack of a source about the news if the shifter had been fixed...

Have you ever driven a manual transmission in real life? If so, how does it compare?

If not, how well can you describe how it 'feels'?
Does it bounce back to between 3rd and 4th gear if you put it in neutral and let it go? Does it feel easy to slide it into gear, or do you have to fight it? Can you really easily accidently bump the shifter and have it go -out- of gear? What about the springs? (Incase you're wondering, a few early product demonstrations were done for user feedback and improvements. One of the big complaints was the shifter and these issues. Though they were not production models (meaning they could sitll make improvements), I don't recall seeing any actual, official, word that they had adjusted the shifter. I'm just reall curious )

Man, I can't wait until October... I accidently broke my Black Momo when I was working around the house, and I yanked the USB wire out of it's housing (so much that I can see the four colored wires and their copper ends). Rather than replace it, I'm focusing on skinning and the like for the moment, and buying the G25 when it comes out.

And the best part? My birthday is in October! Woop! And I should have my S2 license between now and then, so come the G25, all will be good.

We've stepped out of the area where I can answer questions, but I have one more that deals with clairification...

3. When reversing should the wheel go to full lock when only slightly turning the wheel? Seen the pattern? Yeah, mine does this too.
Curious, when you say this, what do you mean?

I see a few ways this can be taken. One of which is bad, one of which should happen...

Situation A -
Lets assume you've a 270º wheel (although it doesn't matter if its 270 or 900). You turn the physical wheel, say, 10 degrees, and in game the wheels are full lock. This is, weird...

Situation B -
Same assumption. You apply gas (in reverse), turn the wheel 5º, let go of the wheel. As the car rolls, the wheel continues to rotate until it reaches full lock.
This -should- happen. It happens in real life with real cars too. The front tires want to continue in a straight line, so they continue to turn to produce that straight line until they reach full lock, where they can't turn anymore and they have to deal with it.

Yes, I know Hallen already answered, but I have my own points to add

Quote from DanneDA :

1. Should the wheel have the same resistance in the wheel when turning at 5 % and at 200 %? Mine does this. However the resistance isn't the same when used, sometimes it's light, sometimes it's heavy.

The game generates a variety of forces depending on in-game conditions, however, I'm quite sure you should still notice a diffrence when between those settings. I know I do. If I turn my FFB too high, my wheel often kicks so hard that it almost yanks out of my hand, where-as on a more normal 60-100% range, it is manageable.

However, I think the effect you're describing is dampening (meaning, the FFB level wouldn't matter as much as the dampening level)... What wheel do you have?

Quote from DanneDA :

2. When getting oversteer, should the wheel lose nearly all resistance when trying to correct the oversteer? Mine does this too.

Hallen talked about understeer. In oversteer, yes, you should lose resistance, and here is why: When you oversteer, your front tires want to point in the direction inertia is carrying the car. That happens to be the same direction you're countersteering into (usually ). Now, if your FFB motor is turning the wheel left (to simulate this pull), and so are you (to save your car from crashing) you'll feel a lot less resistance when turning.

Quote from DanneDA :

3. When reversing should the wheel go to full lock when only slightly turning the wheel? Seen the pattern? Yeah, mine does this too.

If you're in a Rear-wheel Drive car, going at moderate-high (above twenty Miles per hour) speeds makes the car VERY touchy. The slight turn of the wheel will more than likely cause the car to 'snap' into a full turn, often winding up in a 180 degree turn (which is why J-turns are so easy to perform). Try going in reverse at, say, 5 miles per hour. The 'snap' to full lock should go away (but it will still tug. How much depends on your FFB setting).

Quote from DanneDA :

How would I go about to clean my wheel without canned air?

Without canned air? I use an air compressor for all my cleaning needs, but without that either, I would take a static free dust rag of some sort (I think they make them for moniters) and give it a wipe down.

Quote from DanneDA :

Is it reasonable for a car to lose all revs when braking without locking the wheels and still going 70 kph+?

Thats a... moderatly complex physics issue. Actually, your drive wheels are slipping under brakage. They haven't 'locked up' yet, as in they're still turning, but they're turning slower than the car is moving (thus a sharp drop in revs). This is because the engine and driveshaft keep the wheels spinning, but braking has slowed them down enough that they're actually sliding across the pavement. However, that being said, -all- your revs shouldn't go away. It should be a slow, steady, decrease in revs, and if you're downshifting as well as braking, the revs shouldn't drop that low.

Oh, and a note on the slipage while braking, I hear that its the most efficient way to apply stopping power... Someone might correct me on that, but it might not be a bad thing!