Oh just some no-name crap, even forgot the manufacturer. And I've been abusing it for quite some years now on different games.
I can't set them to be separate, although after I had some problems with the pedals and took them apart and there was this small little "thingy" between the peddals with two wires atached to it + 1 more pin without a cable attached to it(never was attached), but there was one more cable inside the pedal assembly never attached, so I was thinking if maybe I would attach this one too, I might be able to move each pedal separately? (I'll take a picture of what I mean later)
The wheel isn't moving when I'm not moving it, at least not when it's at center. But as soon as I turn the wheel slightly(i.e. for the first slight right corner after the start/finish on AS3) it moves for quite a longer way and the jumps back to where it should be and then a little more etc. When the wheel is turned it never stays in one spot, it allways moves even if I hold it very still. Sometimes the jump of the wheel is so great it even slides the car a little if the set is very oversteery, barely noticable tho. I haven't noticed this until I've inspected my hot laps.
The wheel isn't moving when I'm not moving it, at least not when it's at center. But as soon as I turn the wheel slightly(i.e. for the first slight right corner after the start/finish on AS3) it moves for quite a longer way and the jumps back to where it should be and then a little more etc. When the wheel is turned it never stays in one spot, it allways moves even if I hold it very still. Sometimes the jump of the wheel is so great it even slides the car a little if the set is very oversteery, barely noticable tho. I haven't noticed this until I've inspected my hot laps.
Too much wheel movement - slower times?
Ohaider.
I've just just inspected one of my uploaded hot laps(AS3 XRR) and I'm almost 3 seconds of the WR, and what I've saw has baffled me.
Driving line is almost the same as the WR holder, throttle and brake movement are also almost the same.
But when I inspect the speeds we take into the corners mine drop quite more than his. I.e. in the first corner of AS3 his speed drops to around 175km/h while mine drops off to 160km/h, but how? We brake almost at the same point and stay on the brakes for almost the same time and then we're back on the throttle again. Although one thing that I can't do is trail-brake, because my brake and throttle axis are combined. Are those small offsets in braking duration(and/or power) and throttle movement enough for such large gap in time at the end?
Another thing I noticed, my wheel input is just so "nervous" even on the front straight it's allways "zig-zag", and I know I'm not doing that with the well, I only input small wheel turn for the small bends on the straight. I have the wheel input compensation(or something) set to 1.0, if I set it to 0.0 it almost becomes undrivable. Can this also impact the times?
Is it really time to buy me a new wheel?
I've just just inspected one of my uploaded hot laps(AS3 XRR) and I'm almost 3 seconds of the WR, and what I've saw has baffled me.
Driving line is almost the same as the WR holder, throttle and brake movement are also almost the same.
But when I inspect the speeds we take into the corners mine drop quite more than his. I.e. in the first corner of AS3 his speed drops to around 175km/h while mine drops off to 160km/h, but how? We brake almost at the same point and stay on the brakes for almost the same time and then we're back on the throttle again. Although one thing that I can't do is trail-brake, because my brake and throttle axis are combined. Are those small offsets in braking duration(and/or power) and throttle movement enough for such large gap in time at the end?
Another thing I noticed, my wheel input is just so "nervous" even on the front straight it's allways "zig-zag", and I know I'm not doing that with the well, I only input small wheel turn for the small bends on the straight. I have the wheel input compensation(or something) set to 1.0, if I set it to 0.0 it almost becomes undrivable. Can this also impact the times?
Is it really time to buy me a new wheel?
Even those can be deleted and then you go online and drive a couple of slow laps and there you go.
So if you would do it this way, you would also have to control race times. If someone drives a too fast lap during the race he/she should be disqualified then.
What I'd do,
take the times of all participants for a given combination and calculate an average time from all competitors and then calculate let's say 95% of that average time. Who's faster than that isn't allowed to race.
But the problem is, if someone doesn't have the hotlap uploaded for a combo. I.e. I don't have many hotlaps uploaded to LFS World, because I don't do hot laps out of one reason. I'm too slow.
I don't get the KY6 layout. Wont there be a problem in the Oval KY2/KY3 section where the paths cross?
Otherwise I love KY4, and any AS layout that includes the up/downhill chicane. Although I prefer to go downhill on that chicane.
Otherwise I love KY4, and any AS layout that includes the up/downhill chicane. Although I prefer to go downhill on that chicane.
This could be it.
Meh...wrong thing
You right click on the camera object and then you can move it around/rotate it just like any other object.
@jnr89: If you're doing a 1:35
x on blackwood with the stock setup, you're on the good way. 
Heel and toe are a bit overrated in such situations, sure it will help you shave of some time, but there is still room for improvement elsewhere.
I still remember while being a Demo (ab)user I was stuck on 1:34:4x for ages, couldn't beat it, tried hundreds of setups from my friends etc. none actually helped me improve my time, while just one afternoon was driving offline for the jokes, and I went 1:33x.
What I'm trying to say, the setup isn't everything(ok, specific setups are better than stock setups for any track), so this doesn't make it a setup vs setup race. You still need a huge amount of skill to be able to compete for the top spots in the race, a skill that I still lack.
x on blackwood with the stock setup, you're on the good way. Heel and toe are a bit overrated in such situations, sure it will help you shave of some time, but there is still room for improvement elsewhere.
I still remember while being a Demo (ab)user I was stuck on 1:34:4x for ages, couldn't beat it, tried hundreds of setups from my friends etc. none actually helped me improve my time, while just one afternoon was driving offline for the jokes, and I went 1:33
x.What I'm trying to say, the setup isn't everything(ok, specific setups are better than stock setups for any track), so this doesn't make it a setup vs setup race. You still need a huge amount of skill to be able to compete for the top spots in the race, a skill that I still lack.
Why so? I've been ordering gear from USofA, China and UK and never had high shipping costs.
And I've been ordering stuff for airsoft, so it isn't really that lightweight either. The other part that really hit me when doing so was our stupid tax law.
Just wondering, no offense.
^that. And then modify the setup to your driving style if you need to.
Yeah, that's kinda normal. Because it's overheated, not 50% worn. :P
So if you would not push it a few laps and let the tyre cool down, you could still do many laps with it. Judging that it has not yet been even worn by 50%.
That! I hate it how you can crash up your car, manage just barely to drive it back to the pits and get it repaired in few minutes or even less.
If you we're wathing 24h Le Mans 2010, where Fisichella I belive just "slightly" crashed his Ferrari with "only" frontal damage, suspension and anything drive related relatively ok, and it took the team a few LAPS! to repair that damage.
Foundz ze video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDwoyemYlH4
I've seen many races where blown tyres have been simply just changed. Except if a blown tyre damaged a vital part of the body in the process(like M.Schumacher in Suzuka 1998)
Use a larger template. The larger, the better it will look.
And keep in mind the stretching of everything on the car. FZ5/R is one of the biggest "strechers" or skins I think.
It's really hard to explain how the path tool works, first you click of a rectangle shape, and then you start pulling those lines so long until you like the shape of it. It's just trial and error. To practice maybe forget about the skin, try just making an S i.e. with the path tool. And maybe start with just one line, so you wont be able to fill it, but just stroke the path with the brush tool, to get the idea on how it works.
And keep in mind the stretching of everything on the car. FZ5/R is one of the biggest "strechers" or skins I think.
It's really hard to explain how the path tool works, first you click of a rectangle shape, and then you start pulling those lines so long until you like the shape of it. It's just trial and error. To practice maybe forget about the skin, try just making an S i.e. with the path tool. And maybe start with just one line, so you wont be able to fill it, but just stroke the path with the brush tool, to get the idea on how it works.
Don't think so. It doesn't get re-calculated if you add restrictions to the car, it could change now tho, but it hasn't been mentioned in the OP. But driving ~3-4 laps to get the average fuel usage shouldn't be too hard.
The idea is to get the mail addresses of the developers and spam their inboxes.
With RHEL you don't buy only the support. It's their trademark logo etc.
Bunch of BS if you ask me anyway, specially when you have the free version of it in Fedora or CentOS.
But I have a couple of friends who bought it for personal use not even remotely connected to "corporate morons".
But the main point of my post was that the common practice for windoze users is stealing software, while some/many(not willing to argue around that) Linux or OSS users get their software for free and still provide donations to the project that is providing their software.
Just take LFS for example, how many more cracked copies of LFS would we have if you would be able to play a cracked copy online.
Exactly what I had in mind.
Where you come to the oval on the KY3, a hard right turn, and on to the KY2 part of the track and after the oval again onto KY3 part.
Can't wait to try that out.
It's not old, but it looks like it's old. But still a load of fun to play.
Soldat
Soldat
Also, take a look here:
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=64975
You've got some logo stretching all over the car.
And when you're pasting on logos/sponsors, remove their background, so you only put on the image without the white background.(dunno if it can be done with paint.net tho), but you could try GIMP or PhotoShop if you got the money for it.(GIMP is totally free tho)
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=64975
You've got some logo stretching all over the car.
And when you're pasting on logos/sponsors, remove their background, so you only put on the image without the white background.(dunno if it can be done with paint.net tho), but you could try GIMP or PhotoShop if you got the money for it.(GIMP is totally free tho)
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG