I love custom layout tracks. Serious or fun.CTRA was at (or near?) its prime when I joined up to LFS with the imminent release of the Sirocco... When CTRA shut down after a few months the game lost its fun. Several have tried to replicate what it brings with varying degrees of successs. I would love to see it around again, even if there wasn't the back end support it had. Maybe have vote kicks/bans with several admins that can override. Just having semi-orginized racing helps a lot.
Since CTRA has gone down the drain I've move to iRacing and occasionally drifting in LFS because what I bought the game for (sirocco) and stayed with the game for (CTRA) are gone.
Since CTRA has gone down the drain I've move to iRacing and occasionally drifting in LFS because what I bought the game for (sirocco) and stayed with the game for (CTRA) are gone.
Had it for a year and a half. It had >1000 hours and nearly 60k miles in LFS and dozens of hours in other racing sims. Warranty is a year. Picked up a G27 for $205 ($90 off on newegg) and it feels like cheating next to the DFGT.
Anyone have any ideas for a motor? Even if the power supply/pack needs to be replaced that isn't a big deal.
Anyone have any ideas for a motor? Even if the power supply/pack needs to be replaced that isn't a big deal.
DFGT motor burned out
The motor on my DFGT has burned out, and in such a way I can't use the wheel as a non-FFB wheel, when I turn the wheel there is quite a bit of resistance.
I have 2 options. Swap another motor into it (a friend has a DFP he does not use). Replace the motor with the same or better.
The DFP's motor has the following markings:
190159-1000
3D5031 25
The DFGT has:
1060604
3j2352 28
The 2nd line appears to be the model+revision number/letter for the motor, which appear to be different.
I have 2 options. Swap another motor into it (a friend has a DFP he does not use). Replace the motor with the same or better.
The DFP's motor has the following markings:
190159-1000
3D5031 25
The DFGT has:
1060604
3j2352 28
The 2nd line appears to be the model+revision number/letter for the motor, which appear to be different.
have you seen this? its simbin racing so its not that realistic but the idea has been under development.
I am disappointed with LFS only because of the Sirocco. With the immanent release of the rocco in 2008 I bought S2, a new wheel and then a new computer. its 1/4 way through 2010 and still no rocco. But overall I have spent a lot of time driving in LFS and definitly got my money's worth. At this point i've drivin >50k miles and spend >800 hours in the game according to xfire. The rocco is precisely why developers don't say they are going to release something if it is not ready or almost ready. i have been a gamer and around computers for most of my life and its always disappointing.
Your best for temperatures would be something like Speedfan, or RealTemp if you have an intel Core processor (although realtemp will only give you the individual core temperatures).
If you have a q6600 and its overheating in LFS then there is a serious issue there. Either your CPU's fan isn't coming on or your heat sink isn't properly seated.
If LFS is freezing up caused by the "Minimum Sleep" time for your Miscellaneous settings being too low?
If you have a q6600 and its overheating in LFS then there is a serious issue there. Either your CPU's fan isn't coming on or your heat sink isn't properly seated.
If LFS is freezing up caused by the "Minimum Sleep" time for your Miscellaneous settings being too low?
if you have a diverter valve (aka recirculating BOV--or depending on what BOV you have) you can change its orientation around so the piston or diaphragm face away from the charge pipes and towards the intake side. this will effect pressure response, and can alleviate some forms of compressor surging.
that sounds like some really nasty surge you have happening. partial boost surge is caused from the turbo pumping out more air than the engine can suck in causing the air in the charge pipes to oscillate between the intake valves and compressor housing. over time this will destroy the turbo, and cause more wear+tear on the engine itself, since your intake is charged the BOV is being forced closed so the excess air cannot escape. my car did this when i installed less-restrictive turbo inlet pipe and using a few shims and a softer spring solved my issue.
your best bet would be to find an enthusiast forum for your car.
As for LFS, i hate how you don't loose boost when shifting, and the way the turbo spools on the TBO's. if you did more than a few shifts of pedal to the floor your clutch would be toast and your gear box would be taking a lot of damage. if we are going to have TBo's that can build max boost by just holding the pedal down, and not have to let off to shift we should at least have the benefit of shift lights so we don't have to do data logging to find our optimal shift points.
I guess i'm just used to my car, but in LFS the turbos seem to spool very slow for the boost and the power they generate. it seems like the turbo must be really lousy and/or is terribly mismatched for the application (too large of a turbo with the boost tuned down.)
that sounds like some really nasty surge you have happening. partial boost surge is caused from the turbo pumping out more air than the engine can suck in causing the air in the charge pipes to oscillate between the intake valves and compressor housing. over time this will destroy the turbo, and cause more wear+tear on the engine itself, since your intake is charged the BOV is being forced closed so the excess air cannot escape. my car did this when i installed less-restrictive turbo inlet pipe and using a few shims and a softer spring solved my issue.
your best bet would be to find an enthusiast forum for your car.
As for LFS, i hate how you don't loose boost when shifting, and the way the turbo spools on the TBO's. if you did more than a few shifts of pedal to the floor your clutch would be toast and your gear box would be taking a lot of damage. if we are going to have TBo's that can build max boost by just holding the pedal down, and not have to let off to shift we should at least have the benefit of shift lights so we don't have to do data logging to find our optimal shift points.
I guess i'm just used to my car, but in LFS the turbos seem to spool very slow for the boost and the power they generate. it seems like the turbo must be really lousy and/or is terribly mismatched for the application (too large of a turbo with the boost tuned down.)
Not going to pay a monthly fee for 'soon to be released' content that takes years to be delayed over and over again, and the fact there aren't license fees for tracks and cars.
Maybe i'm old school but having things blur in computer games ruins the experience (unless you are using a weapon scope in a shooter) and gives me a bad headache.
It would be cool for making videos though.
It would be cool for making videos though.
If you really want to know the perfect shiftpoints for an individual set you can log pulls through each gear at the drag strip, then exporting the telemetry data and calculating your instantaneous acceleration. I had done something similar a few years back on my car each time I did mods that effected the power band.
In most cases though, you will only save tenths of a second on shorter tracks, maybe a second on long tracks that require a lot of shifts as mentioned previously.
In most cases though, you will only save tenths of a second on shorter tracks, maybe a second on long tracks that require a lot of shifts as mentioned previously.
Gigabyte x58 UD4p
Core i7 920 (max 'safe' in-spec voltage+temperature OC = 4.6ghz, motherboard limited)
EVGA GTX275
2xWD Black 1tb
WD Raptor 150gb
6-months of dust:
Core i7 920 (max 'safe' in-spec voltage+temperature OC = 4.6ghz, motherboard limited)
EVGA GTX275
2xWD Black 1tb
WD Raptor 150gb
6-months of dust:
Yes, I was thinking that it was just a cardboard cutout. I found my car on Google Maps. There's some good stuff on google maps if you are board, from hookers to kids wrecking on bikes.
Google Maps @ Top Gear
i didn't see any recent posts about google maps or top gear. check this out.
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll ... 77555&hl=en&gl=us
hint: look in the windows.
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll ... 77555&hl=en&gl=us
hint: look in the windows.
99.9% of the time the power supplies that come with a case are garbage. even if they do supply enough power where it counts, chances are it won't be good, clean power.
With a C2Q and a 9800 you will be fine with any quality 500 watt PSU. look at 500w PSU's with either a 30-35A 12v rail, or dual 20-24a 12v rails (2 x 22A 12v rails will give you about 32A total with 12v). Those 2 components probably draw ~10A on the 12v rail, each. That is 240 watts right there.
If you give us an idea of your budget then maybe some specific PSU's could be mentioned. i.e. a quality 500w PSU will cost the same as an adequate 700w. you might consider adding in several new hard drives. in that case the 700w might be better.
Something from Enermax, PC Power and cooling, Antec, OCZ, Seasonic, Fortron/Sparkle, Corsair are usually a good unit. (HERE is a very comprehensive list-probably TMI, but interesting if you are interested in computers--you can pretty much look at PSU's at a store like Newegg and then search in that thread for it and see where it stands)
When it comes to PSU's, its not the watts, its the amps you are interested in. in many cases a quality 500w power supply will be better than a cheapo 800w for your application because it has the same or higher amperage where you need it. There is a lot of marketing jargin you have to see through to tell if the PSU you are looking at is really good, with the exception of a reputable company. Some PSU's are rated by the MAX output, which is not the same as what they can continuously put out 24/7. Chances are a correct PSU for your hardware is also more efficient and you will not be wasting power. if you go out and buy a 1kw PSU that says its 85% efficient, it is probably only 85% efficient when it outputs around 750-850 watts. at 350-400 watts it might only be 60% efficient (there aren't exact numbers, just a ballpark example). this means that to get 400 watts to computer components you are drawing 650+watts at the wall. If you had a 600watt PSU that is 80%+ efficient around 400 watts you would only be drawing 500w from the wall. the efficiency rating is how effectively power is converted from Ac to DC. Also, power supplies lose a certain percentage of their output every year just from wearing out. Most will lose 5-10% of their power output per year, so buying the bare minimum might not work out in a couple years.
With a C2Q and a 9800 you will be fine with any quality 500 watt PSU. look at 500w PSU's with either a 30-35A 12v rail, or dual 20-24a 12v rails (2 x 22A 12v rails will give you about 32A total with 12v). Those 2 components probably draw ~10A on the 12v rail, each. That is 240 watts right there.
If you give us an idea of your budget then maybe some specific PSU's could be mentioned. i.e. a quality 500w PSU will cost the same as an adequate 700w. you might consider adding in several new hard drives. in that case the 700w might be better.
Something from Enermax, PC Power and cooling, Antec, OCZ, Seasonic, Fortron/Sparkle, Corsair are usually a good unit. (HERE is a very comprehensive list-probably TMI, but interesting if you are interested in computers--you can pretty much look at PSU's at a store like Newegg and then search in that thread for it and see where it stands)
When it comes to PSU's, its not the watts, its the amps you are interested in. in many cases a quality 500w power supply will be better than a cheapo 800w for your application because it has the same or higher amperage where you need it. There is a lot of marketing jargin you have to see through to tell if the PSU you are looking at is really good, with the exception of a reputable company. Some PSU's are rated by the MAX output, which is not the same as what they can continuously put out 24/7. Chances are a correct PSU for your hardware is also more efficient and you will not be wasting power. if you go out and buy a 1kw PSU that says its 85% efficient, it is probably only 85% efficient when it outputs around 750-850 watts. at 350-400 watts it might only be 60% efficient (there aren't exact numbers, just a ballpark example). this means that to get 400 watts to computer components you are drawing 650+watts at the wall. If you had a 600watt PSU that is 80%+ efficient around 400 watts you would only be drawing 500w from the wall. the efficiency rating is how effectively power is converted from Ac to DC. Also, power supplies lose a certain percentage of their output every year just from wearing out. Most will lose 5-10% of their power output per year, so buying the bare minimum might not work out in a couple years.
The PS3 eyetoy is another good camera. it retails for about $40 USD and can do 120fps. i was able to borrow one from a friend and it works quite well, but will use slightly more CPU than a regular webcam (or the eye toy tuned down) that uses 30FPS. Wii remote uses 0 CPU.
As long as the gaming devices plugged and recognized by your system each time the the buttons and axis' will remain the same.
for free track i think its great but i cannot get used to it in a racing game. i cannot fly a flight sim, or play a combat sim like arma without it, but in racing its entirely different for me because there is still no 'feel' for the car.
for free track i think its great but i cannot get used to it in a racing game. i cannot fly a flight sim, or play a combat sim like arma without it, but in racing its entirely different for me because there is still no 'feel' for the car.
What kind of team are you looking for? Racing and Drifting
Age: 24
Country: USA
Preferred Car/Track: Any
Average Laptime on Your Preferred Car/Track: WR+1
How Active Are You? Several times a week
What Kind of Control do you use? DFGT
Time Zone: EST (GMT-5)
Looking for races in LFS and rFactor.
Age: 24
Country: USA
Preferred Car/Track: Any
Average Laptime on Your Preferred Car/Track: WR+1
How Active Are You? Several times a week
What Kind of Control do you use? DFGT
Time Zone: EST (GMT-5)
Looking for races in LFS and rFactor.
thanks, now i'm not ashamed of my sim-pit made with extra 2x4's, some wood screws and c-clamps.
that is actually an ingenious idea. i never thought of using an old ladder. i had a design i wanted to build using some scrap angle-iron and flat bar but it would have been too heavy.
rat-rods of sim pits!
that is actually an ingenious idea. i never thought of using an old ladder. i had a design i wanted to build using some scrap angle-iron and flat bar but it would have been too heavy.
rat-rods of sim pits!
i think if anything we really need a large blacktop for auto-x and other layouts, and a dirt field for some rally layouts. how hard and how long would it take to create such a track? i'd be more than willing to do it myself if only the tools were available.
This is interesting to see from other people's point of view because i always just thought it was something that you adjust to best suite your needs. if steering feels too quick or slow, i change it. simple as that.
sims lack the real world feel from driving a car. i can't enable free-track head tracking and keep the car on the track at all (but can't do a flight sim without it), where i could never drive a car on a track, let alone on the street without moving my head around with a fixed 85 degree forward view, and i also have a hard time driving with a clutch in a sim.
also glad to see i'm not the only one that would over analyze something and make a spreadsheet to explain it. lol.
haha. i grew up around an MG Midget, which was the car i leaned to drive on and was also my frist car when i got my license. then i got a Volkswagen and with all the issues it has had i thought it was like night and day compared to a MG. i get nervous when i drive around for a few weeks without a check engine light. i think if i ever drove a Honda or Toyota i'd have a nervous breakdown waiting for something to go wrong after 200k miles.
sims lack the real world feel from driving a car. i can't enable free-track head tracking and keep the car on the track at all (but can't do a flight sim without it), where i could never drive a car on a track, let alone on the street without moving my head around with a fixed 85 degree forward view, and i also have a hard time driving with a clutch in a sim.
also glad to see i'm not the only one that would over analyze something and make a spreadsheet to explain it. lol.
haha. i grew up around an MG Midget, which was the car i leaned to drive on and was also my frist car when i got my license. then i got a Volkswagen and with all the issues it has had i thought it was like night and day compared to a MG. i get nervous when i drive around for a few weeks without a check engine light. i think if i ever drove a Honda or Toyota i'd have a nervous breakdown waiting for something to go wrong after 200k miles.
Last edited by erfrag, .
Thats good to know. explains why in fast weight transfer maneuvers the car felt really over damped when at a slower weight transfer it was the opposite and vice versa. unfortunately I cannot use the shock dyno's i have and had in the past because there is little detail where i need it. in game i found a rebound rate of ~5-6Ns/mm feels about right but the dyno charts I have do not have enough detail that will line up to LFS. 5Ns/mm is 28 lb.s/in. but, its close enough for LFS to just throw in some numbers and drive around to see how it feels.
another question about damping in LFS, is any dampening from tires taken into account in any way?
another question about damping in LFS, is any dampening from tires taken into account in any way?
Last edited by erfrag, .
Shock(damper) rates. LFS vs RL
I have a question regarding setups and shock rates.
I guess the specific question is what rate are the in-game dampers representing? Are they static (one rate regardless of load)? Low load or high load?
I have a pretty good idea of how dampers work but from tests I have seen on dampers I'm am a bit confused at how LFS models dampers. Taking a look at a damper dynomometer of the model damper in my car there is data representing different loads and different rates which loads are applied.
The car I have used is the FXO because I can get pretty close to the same weight, weight distribution and power output as my 2001 VW Jetta. The FXO also has a McPherson strut front and a trailing arm rear suspension. The only specification I could not find is for the stock-sway bars but after some experimentation I found a combo that feels like my car with and without the aftermarket rear sway (which i have a good idea what the sprint-rate is) that compliments the stock bar. As far as dampers I can get the car to handle very similar to my car, but without the feel or a g-meter for in my car its hard to tell how close the rates really are. I also found it difficult to lift the inner-rear wheel under hard cornering on a flat surface in LFS.
The attached images are from a shock dynomometer using VW R32 stock Monroe and aftermarket Bilstein Sports. Which value would you use for the in-game settings?
I could not locate the results from the exact shocks on my VW Jetta, but with the 'sport' suspension with stiffer shocks they should be very similar if not the same as what is on the R32.
I guess the specific question is what rate are the in-game dampers representing? Are they static (one rate regardless of load)? Low load or high load?
I have a pretty good idea of how dampers work but from tests I have seen on dampers I'm am a bit confused at how LFS models dampers. Taking a look at a damper dynomometer of the model damper in my car there is data representing different loads and different rates which loads are applied.
The car I have used is the FXO because I can get pretty close to the same weight, weight distribution and power output as my 2001 VW Jetta. The FXO also has a McPherson strut front and a trailing arm rear suspension. The only specification I could not find is for the stock-sway bars but after some experimentation I found a combo that feels like my car with and without the aftermarket rear sway (which i have a good idea what the sprint-rate is) that compliments the stock bar. As far as dampers I can get the car to handle very similar to my car, but without the feel or a g-meter for in my car its hard to tell how close the rates really are. I also found it difficult to lift the inner-rear wheel under hard cornering on a flat surface in LFS.
The attached images are from a shock dynomometer using VW R32 stock Monroe and aftermarket Bilstein Sports. Which value would you use for the in-game settings?
I could not locate the results from the exact shocks on my VW Jetta, but with the 'sport' suspension with stiffer shocks they should be very similar if not the same as what is on the R32.
I own a 2001 VW Jetta (MKIV, A4 chassis) that has mcpherson struts and a trailing arm solid rear axle and the 'factory' adjustments are very limited. The shock inserts into the control arm, and is not attached in the the manor of the above picture.
The best you can do is have a local shop drop the sub frame and position it(usually with the use of a jig) to give the most caster/camber which is around -.8 on both sides or so (specified range is 0 to -1.1 IIRC). i have a friend that calls this a 'performance alignment' and it will usually cost you ~$100 vs $40 for a standard toe only alignment, but that is besides the point.
There are kits that replace the plate where the strut attaches to the strut tower that give 1-1.5* more of negative, so you are looking at maybe 2.5* negative camber.
I think these limited setups will be great instead of using a tracker tool to force a certain set to be used, I just hope that the ranges are realistic. Will there be ranges that can be set server side? or will it be fixed values/ranges decided by the developers?
Last edited by erfrag, .
what OS are you using?
Windows Vista and 7 do not support full screen-multi-monitor 3d acceleration.
in XP i always had the experience where only 1 monitor could be used at a time for 3d acceleration, i could drag a window'd game from 1 to another, but if i were to try to use 2 it would appear to drop down to just a couple FPS.
Windows Vista and 7 do not support full screen-multi-monitor 3d acceleration.
in XP i always had the experience where only 1 monitor could be used at a time for 3d acceleration, i could drag a window'd game from 1 to another, but if i were to try to use 2 it would appear to drop down to just a couple FPS.
IMO the skins should just be set up like most other games when it comes to custom skins. When a player joins a race, his skin is uploaded to the server, then the server distributes it to all the racers.
It would increase server bandwidth, but as it is a server of 20 or 30 racers does not use that much bandwidth and there could be a server option to "disable downloads" in case the server owner can not handle the extra bandwidth. If you are worried about a brief spike in network lag created by this just have it done before a race starts, even if it means sitting at the line for an additional couple of seconds. A server side option option and/or specific perimeters on skin size would be needed to limit the size of the skin.
It would increase server bandwidth, but as it is a server of 20 or 30 racers does not use that much bandwidth and there could be a server option to "disable downloads" in case the server owner can not handle the extra bandwidth. If you are worried about a brief spike in network lag created by this just have it done before a race starts, even if it means sitting at the line for an additional couple of seconds. A server side option option and/or specific perimeters on skin size would be needed to limit the size of the skin.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG