parempi laittaa noi mielummin tonne arvostelutopikin jatkoksi, tää subforum olis hyvä pitää ihan keskeneräsiä työstettäviä modeja varten 
Looks great, drives great but maybe a bit familiar.
Would love to see this done properly instead of just focusing into the graphical aspect (quality is very good though, hats off there). i could fiddle with engine editor for a minute and get the stock version hp/torque peaks accurate to ~50rpm and ~1hp/2nm compared to spec sheets i can find online. The frame and suspension are just slightly altered XR variant.
Wouldn't complain otherwise but i also wouldn't call it a diamond with this much uncertainty
Would love to see this done properly instead of just focusing into the graphical aspect (quality is very good though, hats off there). i could fiddle with engine editor for a minute and get the stock version hp/torque peaks accurate to ~50rpm and ~1hp/2nm compared to spec sheets i can find online. The frame and suspension are just slightly altered XR variant.
Wouldn't complain otherwise but i also wouldn't call it a diamond with this much uncertainty
i spent 70 euro total for the usb adapter and sponge, which is just 30 euro shy of the price i paid for this current 27
It really depends on what you're looking for in a wheel to be fair. If you feel like you have an enjoyable and a fast experience with your G27 then it wouldn't probably atleast hurt to wait until the base level direct drives get around to the same price range. You can go fast with this wheel, but it lacks a lot of information in comparison to these direct drive sets which might even have load cell brake pedal bundled.
Logitech's stock brake pedal in 25/27 is basically linear which can be fixed by various assortment of mods such as stiffer springs or maybe even a foam bit to make it feel more like you are adjusting your braking with pressure instead of pedal travel. I personally have a separate USB adapter and a GT/rally brake pedal mod by 3Drap (https://www.3drap.it/product/brake-pedal-mod-formula-logitech-g25-g27/). It took about a month or two to get used to properly but it's a clear difference over the stock setup. The USB adapter for pedals make the axis more clear(better "resolution") over the original connection through the wheel.
Though if you can afford anything better and want to spend time simracing then it's definitely better to get a direct drive and a load cell brake over logitech. There is always a ~3-5° deadzone in the force feedback with this wheel at the dead center because Logitech argued the motors would be fighting each other if it's any less. And since load cells are pressure sensitive this seems the best choice for brakes in simulation environment.
I've been personally looking at Moza DD R9 wheel base, been hearing it's the most "budget/longevity" solution in terms of wheel base but i'm uncertain which pedals i would like to pair with them, and in the start i might be pairing my logitech pedals with it because i have too many other things i need to throw money at.
EDIT: i forgot to also add that the more force your wheel can produce, the less clipping it would have. at the forces i have with my G27 they would be clipping way before the peak forces, in every racing sim, so you might have more information just because the forces given by the sim aren't enough to cause said clipping.
Logitech's stock brake pedal in 25/27 is basically linear which can be fixed by various assortment of mods such as stiffer springs or maybe even a foam bit to make it feel more like you are adjusting your braking with pressure instead of pedal travel. I personally have a separate USB adapter and a GT/rally brake pedal mod by 3Drap (https://www.3drap.it/product/brake-pedal-mod-formula-logitech-g25-g27/). It took about a month or two to get used to properly but it's a clear difference over the stock setup. The USB adapter for pedals make the axis more clear(better "resolution") over the original connection through the wheel.
Though if you can afford anything better and want to spend time simracing then it's definitely better to get a direct drive and a load cell brake over logitech. There is always a ~3-5° deadzone in the force feedback with this wheel at the dead center because Logitech argued the motors would be fighting each other if it's any less. And since load cells are pressure sensitive this seems the best choice for brakes in simulation environment.
I've been personally looking at Moza DD R9 wheel base, been hearing it's the most "budget/longevity" solution in terms of wheel base but i'm uncertain which pedals i would like to pair with them, and in the start i might be pairing my logitech pedals with it because i have too many other things i need to throw money at.
EDIT: i forgot to also add that the more force your wheel can produce, the less clipping it would have. at the forces i have with my G27 they would be clipping way before the peak forces, in every racing sim, so you might have more information just because the forces given by the sim aren't enough to cause said clipping.
Last edited by nikopdr, .
with the exception of keychain rotating freely around
it's hard to explain but i felt that analogy might be the best. car chassis isn't as flexible as a keychain
with braking you might experience a lot of understeer in fwds, too, best to aim your braking to the straightest place and when you want to cut into apex you can yank the chain
depends a lot on differential settings though. if you got locked diff then you will certainly experience this. might be able to configure it on preference but locked diff usually is the fastest setting so it is better to adapt than to circumvent through settings.
Last edited by nikopdr, .
front wheel drive pulls the car around the corners, as opposed to rear wheel drive pushing the car around.
very simply put, think of a keychain that you drag along a table with your finger. if you yank too hard the tail of the chain will swing around too hard. you can yank enough to not make it swing too wide, but just enough to get you to the exit of the turn at good speed.
very simply put, think of a keychain that you drag along a table with your finger. if you yank too hard the tail of the chain will swing around too hard. you can yank enough to not make it swing too wide, but just enough to get you to the exit of the turn at good speed.
things like aero not affected by suspension and other things
with road cars you already have too much setup ability imo (unless you consider the road cars in LFS to be very trackday/sunday racing oriented).
No problem, its been a long while also since i drove the karts in lfs. just checked what setups i have for the prokart and i attached one that felt decent to my hands on a quick test around FE1R and AS1 (gearing is a bit too short for these tracks but this set feels like it'd fit a lot of the tracks with just simple final drive ratio adjustments)
I normally run 20-25% ffb inside LFS and for the kart test i ramped it up to 100% which gives the ffb a more familiar feeling, atleast in my opinion. so maybe around 50-75% more ffb than normal might work best. Not to forget also it can be fine adjusted another way with caster, simply put more caster gives you more intensity in ffb as well.
just checked what setups i have for the prokart and i attached one that felt decent to my hands on a quick test around FE1R and AS1 (gearing is a bit too short for these tracks but this set feels like it'd fit a lot of the tracks with just simple final drive ratio adjustments)I normally run 20-25% ffb inside LFS and for the kart test i ramped it up to 100% which gives the ffb a more familiar feeling, atleast in my opinion. so maybe around 50-75% more ffb than normal might work best. Not to forget also it can be fine adjusted another way with caster, simply put more caster gives you more intensity in ffb as well.
You need to ramp up the FFB massively to make the wheel feel remotely close to what a kart is, because the steering ratio is very high it will take some effort rotating the wheel even when moving(not quite like a car without powersteering standing still but somewhat close).
Most likely issue is that you don't feel the G-forces at all and have to read what the kart is doing through the wheel. It's not that much of a problem for people that have been playing sims before driving/racing in real life but vice versa it might cause some gray hairs trying to figure out countersteering and such.
/cruise=yes
the server will have cruise tag in multiplayer host list though.
bit funny looking V6 and V8s u guys have there 
Credits wouldn't hurt if that's the case.
"All mod credits go to Matheus GamerJFTV" doesn't sound so nice if you see your wheels in a mod that mentions such things
i am champignon
yes, by posting in the correct subforum and stretching the skin mapping with the car
as for the load waves, i assume it only imports the .wav files packed into the .eng you selected leaving every adjustable parameter as default
LFSW name: nikopdr
In-game name: s1dus*unite
Full team name: Team S1DUS
Nation: Finland
In-game name: s1dus*unite
Full team name: Team S1DUS
Nation: Finland
anything is good on SO4R, even FBM
Hi sorry for not seeing this any sooner, the main reason was to help keep it from flipping over and i'm not sure if R4 has too much grip compared to the tyre ETRC and such use. The real reason is that the truck is too tall so the CoG is also a lot higher than it should be, race trucks are significantly smaller than the road going counterpart but i'll consider adding R4 back if it drives any better after addressing the issues
if the axis you had previously selected was centered(like a steering wheel axis, combined brake/throttle axis, or an analog stick from a gamepad) it would stay at 50% clutch engagement
i don't know if you tested your pedals and wheel in the axis selection mode but you can press pedals etc. in that view to see which number is for which axis
In the singleplayer menu when youre selecting track/cars/ai there is a option to allow car reset which fixes all the damage on top middle of the screen. The command /canreset=yes can be also used on track or online if you have admin access on a server
Last edited by nikopdr, .
try using normal LFS cars and see if those replays have OOS errors
im from the future and i have this in my editor already
I have to stop in and comment please don't use WD40 on electronics and potentiometers as it makes the problems worse over time after the residue left behind has collected enough dirt and dust specks. Contact cleaner or denaturated alcohol is very good for cleaning out pots and let it dry or blast it with air to dry it faster.
And i'm speaking from experience, too.
I think the issue here however is what Tazka mentioned, depending on the wire that gets loose it will start reading only one gate(e.g 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th and 6th) on all of the gates. I also had this issue a long time ago and it's one of the more common problems of G25 shifter which was somewhat better when they ditched out the sequential/h-gate switch and mechanics.
I think NTO, LFSTweak etc. could work with mods as they use the same car classes as default LFS cars do(not sure but atleast the naming is very similar), though there is no lfstweak for the current patch. You wouldnt get the detailed adjustments like demo cars would have but instead the cartype editor with power/torque multipliers, max gears, redline, weight modifier etc.
I would imagine it working online if its being run on a server with the modifier tag
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG