Agreed. As an Engineer from Grumman once said, very differing and diametrically opposed requirements require different and highly specialized airframes to suit.
When will they ever learn that the laws of physics cannot be cheated?
Well, as I said before on this forum, racing IS war. All is fair in love and war i.e. winning is all that counts. If you're not 1st, you're dead. If you don't assume that your rivals are going to screw you over with the most underhanded methods known (and unknown) to humanity, you're an idiot.
Go home and bounce a real tire (you can use ANY tire, from M/Ts to Race tires or even your car's spare tire). All you need to do is to position the tire absolutely straight (camber = 0 degrees). Use your hand to keep it standing if it's too high and narrow. Now, lift it up a reasonable distance (e.g. 50mm) and observe how it bounces.
And I'm generally treated like the ignorant fool around here...
As Jeremy Clarkson loves to say: "This is simply ASTONISHING!"
The only reason F-1 is sticking to tiny 13 inch wheels and high sidewalls is the rules that mandate them. If more sensible sizes such as 15 inch wheels and same overall tire dimensions were permitted, the current wheels will soon go the way of the dodo.
In this era of CFD and ever more detailing to squeeze ever tinier gains out of an ever more over restricted car (courtesy of the Federation of Idiotic Arses), high sidewalls are a REALLY bad thing, especially when the sidewalls bulged under load in ways that completely screw up all those airflow interactions optimized through countless man hours and $$$ of testing. One example of this is the OMEGA tire from Michelin back in the good ole Michelin vs. Bridgestone days. The tire in isolation was worth almost a second per lap, but it was culled because its sidewall bulge characteristics interfered with the airflow so much the car ended up more than 2 seconds of the baseline (car with same aero package and conventional tires of the time) pace.
A tire of the same dimensions as currently used but with 15 inch wheels and more sensible sidewall height would obviously benefit from better tire dimensional stability, much better steering response and superior overall grip. In fact, Bridgestone engineers bluntly stated that a 15 inch version of current F-1 tires could easily end up almost undrivable due to G-LOC. This assume similar to current levels of downforce of course.
Remember the Renault mass damper debacle? The reason they used such as device was to cancel the very much unwanted harmonics from tires, which are underdamped.
In GT cars, 18 inches is both mandated by the rules and happens to be a very optimal size. Note that no one is silly enough to go back to smaller wheel, higher profile sizes these days, mostly due to very obvious technical reasons. Racing is the automotive equivalent of war, and in war, only victory counts.
Deleting the gear indicator from the dash is rather silly, since gear indicators are as some here have already stated, standard on racecars with sequential gearboxes.
Deleting from road cars? Good idea as long as you have a G25 or equivalent/better. Street cars with sequentials (from DSG to INVECS II) always have them. So do many autos. No need for such on H pattern synchronized units though.
Conclusion? -infinity for the dedicated racecars. +1 as a user selectable option for those that have the hardware and the desire for better realism.
Oh sorry, I had no idea that people who can't even understand servo control (which is relevant from everything such as control by wire to too many to mention) is smarter than me.
Oh dear. Next thing I know everyone INSISTS that someone who fails algebra is smarter than me.
I had no idea that views that are based on physical/mathematical understanding, practical experience and serious thought are actually unusual. Next thing I know, to oppose racism is abnormal. Oh dear.
No you don't need to have an automotive eng degree to know cars. just lots of understanding of engineering theory, practical experience and lots of learning from reputable sources (such as SAE, IEEE, etc.). Simply working as an engineer these days might mean diddly squat, since anyone can be a monkey working for a small number of engineers that actually know what they're doing. In RL engineering practice, there are all sorts of people like every other field. There are some that take credit for other's work, others that DO work but are nothing more than grunts and there are those who REALLY know and work their stuff but still end up with jack s**t. Only a TINY number of people actually get what they really deserve, and that's life.
What I find so shocking these days is that people aren't really that good (if any good) at what they're supposed to specialize in at all. And to be told that I am of inferior intellect because I actually bother to think about, investigate, learn and understand stuff to what some my say are hardcore levels of depth? Insanity.
In reality, Biomedical Engineering requires mastery of not just a few, but many forms of engineering. Our chief skills are electrical and computer systems engineering, but we don't get very far without being quite good at mechanical engineering, which incidentally is fundamental to automotive engineering as well. In reality, automotive engineering requires all sorts of disciplines from just mechanical to electrical to chemical and even biomedical. Like it or not, we have a lot to do with making cars safer and ergonomic (think "quality crash test dummies" created with our understanding of biomechanics). Disasters usually happens when our advice is ignored.
I happen to know quite a bit about cars both due to my mechanical background and also due to the fact that I'm quite a serious car enthusiast. And I still fondly remember someone here mentioning quite a while ago that some so-called racecar suspension engineers can't figure out the high speed settings of 4-way dampers common to top end motorsports these days. Talk about ever declining standards. It is no secret that engineering is facing a serious skills crisis.
So typical. Whenever seems that someone might actually be smarter than one is, that someone should be insulted, humiliated and basically squashed. So typical.
When someone talks to you about legitimate theories that are very widely applied, the last thing you should do is stoop to the level of insulting him or her with "rude parts of the human anatomy" as someone here puts it.
Being a Biomedical Engineer, the ability to appreciate and understand an amazing feat of engineering known as the human body is a must. To this day, engineering has yet to fully replicate the abilities of just single limbs. It saddens me every day that perfectly important body parts are used to insult people these days even when we're supposed to be living in a much more enlightened era than say, the Victorian age?
To say that a performance programmed active suspension relieves the need to possess great skill to get the most out of a car is like saying that current spring/damper suspensions should be banned because they allow cars to perform too well over go-karts. Pure insanity. And we're getting this from a guy who does not push cars to their absolute edge and appreciate how hard it is to do that consistently for any car. It is this ban everything attitude that will eventually render motor sports so irrelevant that it'll be banned for good. Stop hiding under a rock, if only people have any real idea what kind of powers are working in this world.
Poor guy, and yes, I know how horrific those Chinese Lecturers are with their incomprehensible English. Unfortunately, those lecturers you see are far from the best the Chinese have to offer. And trust me Tristan, you have no idea how horrible Engineering education has become today. It's a social engineering exercise these days, and the days of working hard to do well, without resorting to unsavory politics, are long gone.
The equation I gave is the transfer function for a SISO (Single Input and Output) closed loop system, where the a Plant is controlled by as single controller. This is absolutely fundamental and necessary to understand, design, build and improve servo-mechanisms. In practice, a servo could be anything from servo motors/hydraulics/pneumatics to a valve controlling fluid flow to a desired set point.
Y(s) = Plant Output
X(s) = Input (Setpoint)
G(s) = Gain
P(s) = Plant dynamics (item to be controlled)
C(s) = Controller
Whereby s denote frequency space.
Control Engineering is, like it or not, an absolute necessity many practical arenas of engineering. In practice, engineers often find that the frequency domain is much more practical to work with than the time domain. Do Bode plots mean anything to anyone here? Without them, suspension tuning would be much more painful then it already is for professional racecar engineers.
By the way, if you bother to check IEEE, you will discover that quality Chinese Researchers dominate many forms of research these days.
Man, I should be charging you guys hundreds of $$$ for this free lecture...
FYI, I happen to have been from a tropical, wet and usually pretty warm country, so if anyone has the chance to toture test machines its me. The cool and flat British Isles do have a nasty habit of making cars look tougher than they really are. Which explains why British cars aren't known to survive for appreciable lengths of time in Malaysian conditions. The McLaren F1 is well known for piss poor cooling that won't work too well in any weather warmer than the cloudy British Isles. In fact, many American owners have upgraded their radiators so they now survive the Arizona desert heat very well even at normal freeway speeds.
Where I came from, conditions are HARSH. Random potholes that threaten to snap the spindly suspension of RAV4s aren't a rarity; they are NORMAL. Temps could drop as low as 18 Celsius at night to as high as well over 40 Celsius in the day. And Malaysia isn't renowned for the flatness of its terrain. Coupled with the fact that most can't really drive (Kopi O licenses i.e. "Mutual Benefits" ), it's sure to test the hell out of every car. Incidentally, properly setup German cars and Japanese cars tend to thrive here.
Green fade. Here's a little dirty secret:
The usual recommended procedure is to go easy for the 1st 100kays or so. In practice, the ideal bedding in procedure varies widely with pad type, though all of them require much "rougher" treatment. Some pads actually recommend multiple high speed stops to properly bed them in, as this removes the thin top layer whilst depositing a nice layer of pad material on the disc/drums. High performance sport and heavy duty SUV/truck pads often come with nice and detailed bedding procedures these days.
To clarify it all, I'm all for removing this arbitrary brake max force setting when the controls and the brake kits are all there and read to go. For now, it is simply too impractical and will hurt LFS's long term economic prospects. The developers are better off concentrating on what they're up to right now (East Asian language support, possibly more physics upgrades, etc.) than removing setup options they worked so hard to create in the 1st place.
Just so that there's no misunderstanding, I clarify that I have NOTHING against your suggestion.
To be absolutely clear, I was referring to experiences in Lemans, where all other cars no longer have much to consider in terms of tire durability, though the Porsche GT3 class is one class where rear tire durability concerns haven't been quashed to such an extent yet. Do NOT under any circumstance interpret this as "DISQUALIFICATION FROM EXCESS TIRE WEAR".
The whole idea of a rear biased 4WD FZT is to make the most of the 500-600hp it should have and save having to balance the 3 car supercar class via excess rear tire consumption. Last thing I would want is to have the same balancing issues as the current GTR class. If none of the cars suffer from excess tire wear, we can much more easily balance them with performance, making all 3 good for races of all lengths.
This is the kind of attitude that will eventually drive this forum and this game to eventual destruction.
Who on EARTH has actually said that any car is FADE-PROOF? Seesh. That said, some road cars that are quite reasonably priced (usually Japanese) have very fade resistant brakes that will take constant tracking without fading to any significant extent.
I was trying to say that most brake fade instances in the real world aren't really fluid related anymore, since IRL brake fluid is actually insulated from actual brake pad temperature to a certain extent. Of course, the bigger the discs and pad area, the lesser the temperature for a given amount of braking work. Effective brake cooling really helps too.
I am aware that the DOT standards do have temperature standards attached to them, though TBH many top end fluids conform to them and even exceed them. I've actually purchased and used DOT 3 brake fluids that far exceed DOT 3 standards (260 Celsius dry boiling point) of the shelf. Multiple hard stops (over 10, though I can;t remember something done years ago) from over 100km/h in searing tropical heat (over 40 Celsius) will put any brake fluid to the test. Last time I checked, 260 Celsius dry boiling point is DOT 5. Since I'm not an advertiser, I shall not disclose the brands of DOT 3 fluids that perform this well, though with a quick google search one can easily find such items. And yes, I'm quite aware of their chemistries too. Most are polyethylene Glycol based, though DOT 5 is Silicone based.
The guaranteed method to fade any road car braking system (no matter what insane sized Brembos or C-C discs/pads you have) is to simply ride the bakes nonstop at highway speeds. Imagine a Porsche 997 Turbo in second gear full throttle, dragged down by brakes squeezed to keep it at 80 km/h. Add over 40 Celsius ambient temperature. With a bit of patience, it will happen.
I emphasized excessive REAR tire consumption, something which still plagues the Porsche GT3 class to this day. Not saying that there's anything wrong with greater OVERALL tire consumption for a supercar class.
A 3 car supercar class with FZT 30/70 RWD (or RWD with BIG rear slicks and relatively skinnier (vs. 4WD) fronts), an MR or M4WD (R8 equivalent) and an F/R (e.g. Crovette) would be great. Agreed.
I'll rather have 3 new fun to drive supercars than another underpowered downforce car like the new one that just popped up in Patch Y.
It is apparent that this forum has degenerated into such a childish finger pointing, mutually insulting, overly generalized, unfairly discriminative and sometimes downright dominated by Nazis.
Tristan an engineer? Oh my goodness, does he even know what this means without referencing:
It is obvious that you simply refuse to abide by the laws of physics. Even with excellent throttle control, overpowered RWD cars will always consume their rears even more enthusiastically than your average FF shopping cart consumes its fronts. This assumes that the car is setup without excessive understeer (the usual case with overpowered RWD cars) and excellent throttle control is used to squeeze every millisecond out of it.
BTW, TC actually INCREASED rear tire consumption in F1 for most drivers and cars due to its ability to consistently get the most out of them. Something most drivers can't do for 1.5 hours straight.
There are many ways of manual (driver) throttle control. One is pulse width, height and frequency modulation made famous by Aryton Senna, with his ability to tap the throttle at amazing rates and precision. The other is what I and incidentally Michael Schumacher (and many other great drivers) use, which is progressive ramping (i.e. squeezing the throttle gradually and flooring it when the time is right).
If only you guys have any idea what I've investigated, tested and done with cars, though it's pretty pointless to explain one's vast experiences to little kids who plug around on LFS all day long thinking it's almost a replacements for the real thing.
By the way, DOT 4 road legal brake fluid with boiling temps significantly over 300 Celsius are NOT uncommon, and believe it or not, numerous road cars work great with them. End of the day, however, most brake cooking I've observed (mostly from AGGRESSIVE downhill runs) aren't fluid related though. It's the discs and pads that usually fry first in my experience. This of course assumes that the fluid isn't sub-par, which is usually the case.
And Trsitan, you disappoint me. To NOT have cooked those less than reliable classic car brakes is a clear sign that you have NEVER pushed those cars as close or beyond the limits as I have pushed many cars from the 80s and beyond. All the more reason as to why one would be foolish to place too much trust in automotive matters to him. Those were the days when brakes die fast and people either slowed down or used engine braking (absolute hell for the engine and the drivetrain). Well, high rates of mechanical failure were considered "normal" then.
Finally, my real point was to respond to the sweeping statement regarding cars of different nationalities. If one knows even half as much as how cars really are as I do they would think twice about issuing such statements without prior statement, e.g. "in general...". Get an old Volvo 240, track it close to its limits with fully OE brakes and you'll get it.
The recipe for a fade prone car is really simple IRL. Lots of mass, undersized discs, calipers and pad area, coupled with water infested fluid and hopelessly bad brake cooling. In fact, one can safely get away with small brakes that deliver the power needed as long as the brake cooling is there, though you do pay the price in overall brake component life (shorter pad and disc life, etc.).
Remember, the laws of physics are the same for all in this universe (besides special cases which we simply won't experience in our everyday lives). And it really doesn't matter who you are or where you're from, or even how many people think you are "god".
And Tristan, you can't be more wrong about me. I DON'T play XFactor (never heard of it before LFS and really don't care as I am too busy with the real ting to play such things these days). And I don't eat pies to any significant frequency. Maybe I should hire you as my janitor?
Japanese car brakes crap? Yet people have problems trying to overheat the Evolution X's Brembos after multiple laps of full race-pace lapping.
If you are referring to the usual "sport compacts", yes they do have adequately powerful but undersized (durability wise) brakes. But next time, please try to toast Skyline R35 GTR's massive brakes before throwing such sweeping statements.
Last time I checked, one easily toast most non-sport road car brakes after just a few laps of close to 100% driving. Unless you change to suitable pads, get better discs, ...
After all these engine debates, I'm still sticking to my camless flat-6 VGT. At least until I find something absolutely superior and viable in every way that matters.
A 500+hp FZ type car would be amazing with 4WD set on 30/70 F/R and just a bit of overall downforce for high speed handling and stability.
I sense a very disturbing trend here. Remove every setup option ,even when its terribly realistic is many ways. Next, someone asks to remove toe settings when it is so blindingly obvious that all LFS cars have adjustable front toe in their RL equivalents, with only a small select group i.e. FWDs that should have fixed rear toe due to trailing arm suspension. Then ask for removal of brake bias adjustment when anyone who SERIOUSLY tracks his his car would have a brake balance bar anyway.
I know, let's remove tire pressure setting too! That'll be BRILLIANT...
Sounds like someone who can't be bothered to learn about what they drive and thus, shouldn't be driving in the 1st place. Or someone so incompetent at setting their brake forces right that they want to take this setup option away from everyone. The ultimate act of spite. Scorched earth! If I can't master it, no one can!
Anyway, -infinity. This is just getting too ridiculous. I would gladly trade this max brake force business for different brake kits with different maximum brake force, modulation, durability, heat soak resistance, etc. capabilities when excellent wheels and pedal sets that actually simulate brake feel properly come into market at reasonable prices (full set no more than current G25 price). At this moment, all the above is either a waste of developer's time or simply unavailable yet.
Now go LFS racing school (the LFS wiki is an excellent guide) and LEARN to setup brake forces properly before starting and entire thread to whine about it.
FYI Mitsubishi actually built a 4WD rally version of the Mitsubishi Starion. But as rally rules changed, economics, etc. came into the equation, it was dropped.
Imagine if such a potential monster actually came to be and resulted in production cars as popular as the current Lancer Evolutions. Mitsubishi Starion Evolution, 320hp and 400Nm OEM, SAWD system, mass with 85kg driver and full fuel load (100Liters) under 1500kg, mass distribution 52/48 F/R. If that's no fun, then you're no car guy. Case closed.
And whoever says that the 997 turbo S or equivalent/better isn't fast and fun to drive really need to have his head examined.
If it was no more than 100kg heavier but with a 180hp 1.8L turbo, RB4 style 4WD system, 100mm longer wheelbase, 50mm wider track, 205 width tires and no less than 125mm of maximum potential suspension travel (with quality spring/damper sets to suit), it'll eat current RB4s for breakfast on anything that's remotely technical.
It's OK, I've just been too busy and stressed out lately. Anyway, lack of TC and return to slicks are great ideas. Tire warmer ban? WHY?!? As if restricting CFD testing wasn't silly enough? More cold tire contributed turn 1 mayhem? So that's what people call entertainment these days? Races that finish with more than half the grid DNFed on turn 1 lap 1?
Just to clear it all up, let me clarify that well designed, built and maintained rotary is just as and sometimes even more reliable than their piston engined equivalents, especially when revved high a lot. Lack of vibration certainly helps a lot. It is just that the way that lubrication works in rotaries mean that they need to consume significantly more oil. That's all.
And I'm just trying to give everyone an idea how high society snobs are like. From their point of view, the average person is worth than their daily spending money. Motor oil? DISGUSTING!
However, let me stress that a rotary for the FZ series might be a good thing if you ignore the minor inconvenience of needing to top up a liter of oil every thousand or 2 ks. Lighter engine at the back means more balanced weight distribution, which certainly wouldn't hurt.