Some (rather detailed) background info about torque steer and what causes it:
http://www.mscsoftware.com/sup ... pers/005_EUC_008_FORD.pdf
http://www.mscsoftware.com/sup ... pers/005_EUC_008_FORD.pdf
Just extract the individual files to the "smx" directory, no subdirs.
Remove all USB devices, go to control panel/system/hardware/device manager and delete all the USB controllers and host adapters, reboot and start connecting the USB devices one by one.
Ah, great. 63.251.17.34 is the game server and it's using TCP. Looks like there are some intermittent packet loss/crosstalk issues with the connection...fairly common with Powerline stuff. If other games are not having lag problems, chances are they simply use better (more fault-tolerant) netcode.
Other than trying to improve the Powerline connection itself (testing different wall outlets, putting other devices on different circuits), I don't think there's much you can do, unless WLAN is an option.
Btw, you may wanna take down the Ethereal capture file as it could contain some of your passwords/Maple account info etc.
Other than trying to improve the Powerline connection itself (testing different wall outlets, putting other devices on different circuits), I don't think there's much you can do, unless WLAN is an option.
Btw, you may wanna take down the Ethereal capture file as it could contain some of your passwords/Maple account info etc.
Does Maple use TCP, UDP or both? If you don't know, have a look with Ethereal.
What's the deal with broadband in the UK anyway? I mean you guys are paying as much as anyone, but problems with oversold networks, "fair use" policies and traffic shaping seem to be very common. Is transit more expensive in the UK or are the costs for the local loop that much higher than elsewhere?
This bug has been around for quite some time. I remember having issues with this in version P or so.
Well, you pretty much have to ignore the quotes from people like that Phelps-character, cause realistically he's just a self-important headcase with no power and a very limited following.
Coulter/Limbaugh/Savage et al make ludicrous statements because it pays well.
Edit: Pat Robertson's statements have to be taken with a grain of salt, too. He's a TV preacher and Christian activist, not an elected politician.
Coulter/Limbaugh/Savage et al make ludicrous statements because it pays well.
Edit: Pat Robertson's statements have to be taken with a grain of salt, too. He's a TV preacher and Christian activist, not an elected politician.
Last edited by bal00, .
So I guess this was the last Gumball then. No sponsor is going to touch future events with a ten foot pole.
Sounds like your install is messed up for some reason. Either that or your harddrive is having issues. I'd try re-downloading the latest version and unzipping it to a different directory.
http://www.track-challenge.com/main_e.asp
Mainly sporty cars, but very detailed since the figures are sourced from sportauto magazine (includes brake rotor size, aerodynamic lift etc.). It's probably not going to stay around for much longer, though.
Mainly sporty cars, but very detailed since the figures are sourced from sportauto magazine (includes brake rotor size, aerodynamic lift etc.). It's probably not going to stay around for much longer, though.
Did you check whether the virus didn't just change the default homepage in IE? If all else fails, make a log file with Hijackthis and post it here.
People are probably suggesting to sell it because even if you don't have to buy it, it's still one expensive ride, especially for a kid. If you sell it now, you'll have ~$100k in the bank and make like $4-5k in interest per year.
If you drive it, it'll cost you something like $20k-30k a year in depreciation, insurance, maintenance, fuel etc.
-Try to stay out of 2nd gear except for the very first corner. In the faster turns it'll mess up your exit, especially if you change gears mid-corner. If you're using auto gear-change, switch to manual and turn off "throttle cut on upshift" in the player options. It may require a bit more attention cause it might produce a little wheel-spin during upshifts, but helps the turbo cars to stay on boost. Probably worth like 2 mph on the straights.
-Slow in, fast out. Brake early, turn in late, don't get the car sideways in the corner and try to be early on throttle. Braking early and entering a bit slower will only cost a few hundredths of a second, but a clean and fast exit can be worth half a second because the extra speed helps you on the straight that follows.
-Slow in, fast out. Brake early, turn in late, don't get the car sideways in the corner and try to be early on throttle. Braking early and entering a bit slower will only cost a few hundredths of a second, but a clean and fast exit can be worth half a second because the extra speed helps you on the straight that follows.
I can't quite figure out what you're trying to do.
What's the situation now and what do you want to change?
What's the situation now and what do you want to change?
Someone else might be using your account.
Your online stats from lfsworld:
Last race information: (12:26-24 Feb '07)
Host:ﾉﾏedline ﾉﾏacing 3
Position:7th out of 10, doing 6 laps
Time / best lap:6:44.970 / 1:02.420 (6)
Track and car:AS club, FOX
Today's stats:
Travelled distance:51 Km
Fuel burnt:11 Ltr
Laps:12
Hosts joined:8
I'd change both passwords to be safe.
Your online stats from lfsworld:
Last race information: (12:26-24 Feb '07)
Host:ﾉﾏedline ﾉﾏacing 3
Position:7th out of 10, doing 6 laps
Time / best lap:6:44.970 / 1:02.420 (6)
Track and car:AS club, FOX
Today's stats:
Travelled distance:51 Km
Fuel burnt:11 Ltr
Laps:12
Hosts joined:8
I'd change both passwords to be safe.
Well, that's not how it works. Military guys are exempt from customs/VAT and certain safety regulations.
If you buy an untaxed car from them, you're liable for customs/VAT, which would turn 16k Euros into 19k Euros. And then you'd have to get emissions certs, swap out head- and taillights for ECE-legal ones etc. to get it registered. At that point you're closer to 22k Euros.
Let's be a little realistic here. An SRT-4 will be a pain to own in Germany since it would have to be a gray market import, and it'll be more than 10k€, too. An original Clio Williams is a fun car, but I wouldn't call it reliable, and it's become a bit of a collectors item these days, which means you end up paying a lot of money for not a lot of car. And you would have to be insane to own an R5 Turbo as your only car in 2007. Prices for good examples are through the roof and parts are extremely difficult to find.
Emmissions-wise it would have to be Euro 2 or better, which rules out most pre-'96(ish) cars and since reliability is a concern newer would be better.
Some possible candidates:
-A3/Golf 4/Seat Leon 1.8T
-Golf VR6/V6
-Peugeot 206 S16/RC
-Focus ST170
-Clio RS
-BMW 323ti
-Opel Astra OPC/Corsa GSI
-Polo GTI
Personally I'd skip the ST170 and the Corsa GSI because they "feel" slow for some reason and the Polo GTI (the pre-1.8T models) because it (at least the one I drove) suffered from the sticky-throttle syndrome that quite a few newer cars seem to be plagued with. If you're not terribly concerned about fuel mileage, I'd give the VR6/V6 Golfs a second look because the engines sound sweet and they move as well as any car on the list.
Emmissions-wise it would have to be Euro 2 or better, which rules out most pre-'96(ish) cars and since reliability is a concern newer would be better.
Some possible candidates:
-A3/Golf 4/Seat Leon 1.8T
-Golf VR6/V6
-Peugeot 206 S16/RC
-Focus ST170
-Clio RS
-BMW 323ti
-Opel Astra OPC/Corsa GSI
-Polo GTI
Personally I'd skip the ST170 and the Corsa GSI because they "feel" slow for some reason and the Polo GTI (the pre-1.8T models) because it (at least the one I drove) suffered from the sticky-throttle syndrome that quite a few newer cars seem to be plagued with. If you're not terribly concerned about fuel mileage, I'd give the VR6/V6 Golfs a second look because the engines sound sweet and they move as well as any car on the list.
True FoIP (T.38) would be too expensive, yes, but apparently people are using analog faxes over regular T.30 connections with decent results. That may depend on the hardware and the carrier, though.
I haven't used efax.com, but you have to keep in mind that these providers only have a limited number of phone lines. Depending on the time of the day and the quality of the provider, your outgoing faxes may be queued for a while before they're actually sent out.
If faxes are time-critical, I'd always go with a local solution.
If not, I'd probably look into VoIP services. A lot of them offer software faxing, and they're usually a good bit cheaper than efax. sipgate.de for example charges 3,90€/mo for voice+fax service and 1ct/min for web faxing.
If you want to do it locally, you can just install some fax gateway software on a small server, put in a fax modem or ISDN card and have it act like a network printer. It'd also be possible to route incoming/outgoing faxes over VoIP, so you're not blocking any phone lines.
If faxes are time-critical, I'd always go with a local solution.
If not, I'd probably look into VoIP services. A lot of them offer software faxing, and they're usually a good bit cheaper than efax. sipgate.de for example charges 3,90€/mo for voice+fax service and 1ct/min for web faxing.
If you want to do it locally, you can just install some fax gateway software on a small server, put in a fax modem or ISDN card and have it act like a network printer. It'd also be possible to route incoming/outgoing faxes over VoIP, so you're not blocking any phone lines.
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