Quote :

some very close twin drift in the baking heat for about 10 minutes, this equates to two dead red tyres

Enough said really. Tyres designed for drifting are dead after 10 minutes of pratting about.

You'll need a good book to take with you aswell. :-)

Well it can be either, to be honest. My Momo pedals flaked out a few months after I bought it, and the software fix worked. They didnt start breaking again until about 9 months later. I suspect the root is hardware based, and the software fix can cover it up to an extent, but once it reaches a certain level, you're screwed.

I have digital speedo and I look at it quite a lot during quali/hotlapping just to make sure I'm taking maximum corner speed, but I dont look at it as much during racing.

It can be a useful way of judging when your tires are going south on you though, as you can tell that you're unable to carry the same corner speed.

Absolutely. I only joined a team and started league racing after S2 came out, and it's a whole different world. Much more rewarding and challenging.

Quote from ksa_land :

So nothing else helped since then.
But I got my money back because the wheel was just nearly 1 year old.


So I expect the DFP this week.

Dont get your hopes up. I bought a DFP after getting fed up with my momo black pedals which were flaking out after about a year. The DFP pedals lasted a month before they started spiking brake power randomly.
Bizarrely, I plugged my old momo pedals into the dfp and they work fine now.

Your graphics card is fine but you're definitely CPU limited.

I used to run S1 on a athlon 800. It was okay if I was on my own on the track, but very very slow at the start, and if any AI were active doe to the high cpu activity.

S2 runs about the same, but worse online due to the generally higher number of cars, hence more physics calcs.

The difficulty is that in most types of racing car, its extremely difficult to actually know that someone has a 1/10th overlap on you. So the rule is designed to make it the other guys responsibility until such times as you would reasonably be expected to know they had an overlap, ie. third to two thirds up.

But I definitely agree that if I DO know that someone has, or might have, some overlap, I alway leave a bit of room, because the last thing you want is a tap in your hind quarters on turn-in, as thats guaranteed spin-out.

I cant get a feel for what the race schedule is going to me like at the moment. Any pointers? I'm interesting in joining the team but I'm not sure when the races are going to be so it's a bit hard to decide.

But the great thing about it is that you can have completely different view settings for each car.

At a normal pitstop, your clutch is automatically held in while the pitstop is running, so I normally just stick it in first and rev it up ready for the off.

I just got a stop and go penalty for fluffing the limiter button on pit entry, so I came in, stopped in a pit box then did my usual thing of sticking it in first and revving ready to be released, when the flipping car moved off, and I was given another stop and go penalty for moving during the stop and go penalty!!

In a way, this isnt really a bug, because in real life if you moved during your stop and go, you would probably be penalised, but I just think the car-holding behaviour should be the same for a pit stop as it is for a stop and go. Otherwise people get their races ruined even more than they were all ready.

Not that I'm bitter you understand.

Quote from Gabkicks :

you must be using a crapload of downforce to go that slow on the straight :P

The back straight on aston national isnt a straight, its a long uphill righthander. Same setup hits 164mph on the home straight, which also isnt really straight.

That set actually has a fair bit of downforce. I run 1:46.xx in FXR and 1:45.xx in FZR, which isnt lightning but is fairly decent.

The FXR and XRR are particularly prone to this, being racing turbos I guess. FXR on Aston National, I normally hit 154mph round the long sweeping back straight, but after 7-8 laps of flat-shifting I can only hit 152mph.
Its a pretty small difference but adds up to several tenths over the lap.

Interestingly, the .raf format does not assume 4 wheels but rather is self describing and allows any number of wheels. Nice bit of forward planning there.

Yeah, we've got all that stuff. Drop me a PM as a reminder and send it you over.

I suspect that the modelling of preload, or clutches, is incomplete. The reason I say that is because I am sure that if they were fully modelled, we would be able to adjust them.

This may be one of the reasons that the clutch-pack diff in LFS at the moment still seems a bit wierd to some people.

I had a black momo for a while, and when I got a bit of spare cash went mad and upgraded to the DFP. If you havent got either, I would definitely recommend going for the DFP, unless you really, really cant afford the extra £20-30 quid.
And to be honest, if you really, really cant afford the bit extra, then you probably should be saving your money for rent and food anyway.

Its all down to the differential.

Whats happening is that the power-side differential setting is giving you understeer with power application, but the coast-side is set so you get lift off oversteer.
Try lowering the power-side lock a little bit to reduce the understeer and increasing the coast-lock a little bit to reduce the lift-off oversteer.

Do it in small steps though as diffs are a bit funny and can start doing the opposite of what you expect if you go too far one way.

It does depend on the car and the track to some extent, but I normally find that a default, or inappropriate setup rarely makes more than a second or twos difference.
Maybe more than that in aero cars if your gearing and aero setup is completely wrong for the track though.

Yeah, we've got one too which I'm in the process of replacing before I finish building an extension on top of it.
The water board are only obliged to replace any lead pipe up to your property boundary, so it certainly goes that far. If you've got an external stopcock out by the road then its easier to replace it up to there, otherwise the water board will have to come and replace their bit and put a new meter in for you to connect to.
Its got to be in a 750mm deep trench minimum as well, so leave it till you fancy doing some serious digging.

In an ideal world, you should really be replacing that lead incoming water main. We wouldn't want you going prematurely senile.

If the AI was worth racing in S2 final, then it would certainly be possible to write an InSim app that kept track of a single player championship. However, I only think somebody would bother if the AI gets fixed up well.

Apparently they've also been designed to leave a pretty clean wake behind the rear wing, and also to have a front wing which is efficient in dirty air. So in theory there should be more overtaking.

God yeah. GP2/GP3 had the 'pole up the ass' chase cam system and it was completely undriveable.

My suspicion is that its actually quite difficult to write a chase cam system that feels natural and it probably requires a lot of tweaking of values to get it feeling right for each car.

Yeah, I really wanted this to be good, and no prior bias against it. Sadly it has resisted all my attempts to get to like it. Its cheap* and nasty, and frankly naff. Refund requested.

*Although not that cheap, they quote prices in british pounds, but dont add british VAT, or even tell you that local tax will be added which is just downright deception. So note folks, it doesnt cost £25.99, it costs £30.54