Likewise for motorbike racing in the US. When I tell people I race motorbikes they assume I mean motocross. I have to clarify it's on paved circuits with sportbikes, what the average American knows as a "crotch rocket."
Unless it's NASCAR or takes place on dirt, people don't care.
I still do it because I love it.
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What about motorbikes didn't work out?
<--- motorbike racer
<--- motorbike racer
I'm fairly certain Victor did all the music.
What makes them american style?
Did you change the gearing at all? A larger rear sprocket may give you what you're looking for, something like +4 teeth over your stock 42. Adjust chain tension accordingly.
I wouldn't say I necessarily like Suzukis, they just happened to have the best bike (SV650) for the class I wanted to race in (Ultra Lightweight or Lightweight Twins). The only other choice was a Ninja 650 (aka EX650), which makes less power and otherwise appears to be an inferior bike. Also, the SV650 is still fairly competitive in Lightweight and D class against the likes of the air-cooled Ducatis (e.g. 1000DS).
In the future, I intend to move up to Middleweight or C class, which means picking among the Big Four's 600 supersports.
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CMOS logic at idle (i.e. minimal switching, not doing work) does not generate nearly as much heat as it does at full load (i.e. lots of switching, lots of work). It seems pretty clear there's thermal throttling going on, and it's well within the realm of possibility that an IC generates far more heat at 300MHz at full load than it does at 600MHz close to idle.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMOS#Power:_switching_and_leakage
I think if anything, a consumer-level motion sim will make you slower.
I think one major thing you can do to normalize things between real life and the sim is a properly configured FOV, for which you need a rather large and wide screen (21:9, or triple monitors), or VR. As someone used to racing in real life, I find having the scenery scaled to realistic proportions in this way aids me greatly in getting re-accustomed to sim racing. People generally use a fairly large FOV on a relatively small screen and it makes everything look scaled down (i.e. small) and distorted.
Another is a properly configured, comfortable, consistent seating position, where the relationship between the wheel, pedals, screen, and seat doesn't change, either during a session or between sessions. That is unless a small adjustment is necessary.
I think one major thing you can do to normalize things between real life and the sim is a properly configured FOV, for which you need a rather large and wide screen (21:9, or triple monitors), or VR. As someone used to racing in real life, I find having the scenery scaled to realistic proportions in this way aids me greatly in getting re-accustomed to sim racing. People generally use a fairly large FOV on a relatively small screen and it makes everything look scaled down (i.e. small) and distorted.
Another is a properly configured, comfortable, consistent seating position, where the relationship between the wheel, pedals, screen, and seat doesn't change, either during a session or between sessions. That is unless a small adjustment is necessary.
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South City is not smooth and bumpless.
You know who knows how to brew a good tea? Guy Martin. Seriously, look it up.
What does Minimum Sleep do?
What did I just watch... and why is some British dude wearing a Rangers jersey? Not to say he can't, it's just unexpected.
NHMS (Loudon, New Hampshire, United States)
Calder Park (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)
Thompson Speedway (Thompson, Connecticut, United States)
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Meanwhile, RDP into their machine. Start driving for them.
Renault is way ahead of you. 20 years ahead, in fact.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_Espace#Espace_F1
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Fair enough. 
I was trying to remember if you mentioned having been on track before.
I was trying to remember if you mentioned having been on track before.
Why? Wearing the whole surface of the tyre on the street requires either high lean angle or terrible body position, neither of which should you be doing on the street.
The goal is to not use all the tyre if you can avoid it, that way you have more margin for error.
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I have it on PC using a 360 gamepad. Physics feel very similar to Milestone's MotoGP13, maybe the later ones too but 13 is the last I played. Which is to say they're okay, if you can accept a number of odd behaviors.
It typically makes sense to buy the fastest bike in a given class or else you have to mod the crap out of the bike just to keep up with the riders on the fastest bike. The under-700cc Naked class especially: DO NOT buy the FZ-07, you will not win a race with it and you'll be stuck drastically reducing the difficulty to get any money at all.
Note: I play with highest difficulty AI and most realistic physics settings. YMMV if you use different settings.
It typically makes sense to buy the fastest bike in a given class or else you have to mod the crap out of the bike just to keep up with the riders on the fastest bike. The under-700cc Naked class especially: DO NOT buy the FZ-07, you will not win a race with it and you'll be stuck drastically reducing the difficulty to get any money at all.
Note: I play with highest difficulty AI and most realistic physics settings. YMMV if you use different settings.
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FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG