3k spent on sound deadening? For that price you could sound deaden a bus! Did you go for full coverage or just partial? And multiple layers or just the one?
Also is that 2 seperate boxes? And are they ported? If so tuned at what?
10,000 seems like quite a lot for what i can see.
Also on an unrelated note have a question or two about tyres/handling. My car came with standard alloys with 175/70/13 tyres. Handled pretty well for what they were. Bought new wheels with 2 bassicly brand new tyres, and one slightly worn tyre, 4th tyre was completely gashed so i've got one standard 13" wheel on the rear right until i get a new tyre. New tyres are 195/45/16. I assumed bigger wheels/tyres = more grip. But i've noticed when cornering sharply at some speed that the back end seems to feel like its sliding a little, the front is happily planted to the road and doesnt understeer, its just the back. Is this because of the different sized wheel or could it be something else?
Also might be a bit of a twat of a question but where i live the roads aren't that smooth and are quite bumpy, is there any chance while cornering that the car might hop over a bump and then as it comes back down the tyre will be pushed inwards and off the rim? As they are sort of low profile tyres so not sure what they're like when it comes to going over a bump sideways.
Also is that 2 seperate boxes? And are they ported? If so tuned at what?
10,000 seems like quite a lot for what i can see.
Also on an unrelated note have a question or two about tyres/handling. My car came with standard alloys with 175/70/13 tyres. Handled pretty well for what they were. Bought new wheels with 2 bassicly brand new tyres, and one slightly worn tyre, 4th tyre was completely gashed so i've got one standard 13" wheel on the rear right until i get a new tyre. New tyres are 195/45/16. I assumed bigger wheels/tyres = more grip. But i've noticed when cornering sharply at some speed that the back end seems to feel like its sliding a little, the front is happily planted to the road and doesnt understeer, its just the back. Is this because of the different sized wheel or could it be something else?
Also might be a bit of a twat of a question but where i live the roads aren't that smooth and are quite bumpy, is there any chance while cornering that the car might hop over a bump and then as it comes back down the tyre will be pushed inwards and off the rim? As they are sort of low profile tyres so not sure what they're like when it comes to going over a bump sideways.
I read that its actually the motor that stops the window going any further up or down. Wasn't going to buy the doors, was just going to buy all the parts that i needed from a model of my car that had electric windows, and just put all the parts in and wire it up myself. Just need help on what parts it is im ordering.
Need some help with electric windows. Going to be converting my manual windows to electric windows. I've worked out the electrical side of it and should be pretty easy, time consuming but easy. The part im stuck on is the mechanical components, im more of an electrician over a mechanic, so i have no clue what parts make up the electric window, obviously i know theres a motor, and then runners? Im assuming the runners differ between electric and manual windows? Is there anything else that i would need to get?
Definitly liking the thought of the metro idea. Possibly lfs.net would take you to a metro screen, and from there all the tabs would represent the different sections of lfs websites, for example the forum, lfsworld.
If this is what was meant by the metro design then sorry for repeating it but i definitly agree with it. But i get the thought that maybe the metro idea was going to be for multiple parts of the website.
If this is what was meant by the metro design then sorry for repeating it but i definitly agree with it. But i get the thought that maybe the metro idea was going to be for multiple parts of the website.
Yeah it was high. I didn't do the work myself because im not a mechanic, simple. So everyone who doesnt know how to change a clutch is a retard? You need to chill out with the personal digs. Was only saying i had my clutch changed without the front coming off.
I had my clutch changed on my Mk3 Golf a few months ago which involved taking the gearbox completely out. Sat there and watched it be done and the front end never came off, nor did the engine. And it was done in 4 hours too.
Haha, i do turn it down when im stuck in traffic or through town. Only time i tend to groundpound is while driving or in the middle of nowhere.
Yeah thats fine, if you know the person you're selling it to will take good care of it then its good, but then again might just end up being jealous if it looks better then when you had it haha. Theres no winning really.
Cheers! I did try my best
You still carrying on this insult me about everything shit Tommy?Don't need the trunk for anything haha, dont ever put anything in there so im happy to sacrifice that space for my subs. And that is true but theres a distinctive difference in sound between sub inches, ie 12" subs sound completely different to 15" subs. I just prefer the sound of 15's.
I'm not necessarily shooting for dB's, im a bit of a groundpounder, i like alot of "vibrate the shit out of everything" whilst still having clear bass, which is hard to achieve. Luckily my speakers keep up pretty well with the bass.
And if you do ever sell it, don't sell it to someone where you might see the car every so often. It broke my heart to keep seeing my car being treated so horribly, wheelspan everywhere (even when the clutch was completely goosed), never washed or hoovered. Wipers, mirrors, interior parts, all damaged. Horrible lexus lights put on. The list goes on, it was just treated so badly, probably one of the reasons i got it back, just so i could treat her how she should be.
I know, i've had this discussion with a few people. It would be much simpler and cheaper to just buy a GTI, but i've become fair attatched to mine, i've spent too much time and money on it to just sell it and get a GTI.
And why get a mk3 GTI? Well my car is amazing to drive, the handling is amazing, all it lacks is power. A Mk4/anything above is out of the question as i cant afford them. And a running and decent Mk2 is impossible to get here.
Mine luckily isnt two bad, only rust in 2 places, under one door and underneath the rear light, that one is only rusting because its been damaged.
Not sure if being sarcastic? But thanks.
Bought my old car back for alot less then i sold it for, just because the clutch was gone. A few pictures since i've had it back.
Resprayed the roof and spoiler in black with plastidip, and then for the lolz a stripe on the bonnet with what was left. Peeled the bonnet off now though.
Change the GTI lights that had been put on for some projector angel lights.
Twin 15" Vibe Blackairs for some boom.
White dash
I've also got these 16" wheels to go on, need to resand them all and spray them all black, then some good 195/45 tyres are going on.
Need to get the nasty dent in the back fixed, get a few bits on the bumpers repsrayed and then find a 16v GTI donor car to engine swap with. Plus brakes and suspension ect.
Resprayed the roof and spoiler in black with plastidip, and then for the lolz a stripe on the bonnet with what was left. Peeled the bonnet off now though.
Change the GTI lights that had been put on for some projector angel lights.
Twin 15" Vibe Blackairs for some boom.
White dash
I've also got these 16" wheels to go on, need to resand them all and spray them all black, then some good 195/45 tyres are going on.
Need to get the nasty dent in the back fixed, get a few bits on the bumpers repsrayed and then find a 16v GTI donor car to engine swap with. Plus brakes and suspension ect.
Oh haha,
Rule number 1. Audio signals and power wires do not mix.
Rule number 1. Audio signals and power wires do not mix.
Logitek,
Just drill a few holes through that board the amps are screwed to and run the cables directly down through it. That way you cant see as much mess.
Also try this to see if it fixes your interference, get 2 cables, around the same size as speaker cable. On one end attach it to the ground of your RCA, thats the outer shield. Just lay the cable flat against the inside of the outer shield of your RCA, making sure it doesn't touch the center pin. Then push the RCA into your amplifier. Do the same with the other RCA. Then on the opposite ends of your cable just ground them.
Sometimes it helps, not always but its worth a try.
I've got an absolute mess of cables as well which i haven't had the time to sort out, its causing interference in 2nd and 3rd, unluckily the trick above only helped make it a bit quieter, but didn't get rid of it.
Just drill a few holes through that board the amps are screwed to and run the cables directly down through it. That way you cant see as much mess.
Also try this to see if it fixes your interference, get 2 cables, around the same size as speaker cable. On one end attach it to the ground of your RCA, thats the outer shield. Just lay the cable flat against the inside of the outer shield of your RCA, making sure it doesn't touch the center pin. Then push the RCA into your amplifier. Do the same with the other RCA. Then on the opposite ends of your cable just ground them.
Sometimes it helps, not always but its worth a try.
I've got an absolute mess of cables as well which i haven't had the time to sort out, its causing interference in 2nd and 3rd, unluckily the trick above only helped make it a bit quieter, but didn't get rid of it.
New headunit for the missus
and new wiper blade for her too.
and new wiper blade for her too.
Well i can't seem to say anything right haha
Sorry internet police, i forgot how serious the web has got now. Jeez.
That doesn't even make any sense?
Okay then, well i guess the fact I've given a link that explains why not to use them is not prime advice.
Also head over to http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/
then go down to the electrical section and do a search for all threads with Capacitor in the title. You'll find a fair few, and they all explain why not to use one.
Spent the last year and a bit trolling the Internet about car sound systems, and ive read about capacitors more times I care to remember. Not to mention I used to have one, and my voltage use to actually be worse in my car after I'd put it in. I'd get a slightly bigger voltage dro with it.
You install your sound system and when the bass hits your lights dim.
You can either A) Get a capacitor (roughly £70 here), put it in, fixes your dimming lights but is actually bad for your car.
Or
B) Do the big three, buy the cable (roughly about £30-£40 here), and maybe an hour or so of your time to do it. Which will fix your dimming headlights and actually help your cars electrical system.
Edit: it's not hard to do big 3, all you need to do is cut wires to length, solder or crimp them and then just undo a few nuts and bolts on your car and attach the wires. Really not hard.
You can either A) Get a capacitor (roughly £70 here), put it in, fixes your dimming lights but is actually bad for your car.
Or
B) Do the big three, buy the cable (roughly about £30-£40 here), and maybe an hour or so of your time to do it. Which will fix your dimming headlights and actually help your cars electrical system.
Edit: it's not hard to do big 3, all you need to do is cut wires to length, solder or crimp them and then just undo a few nuts and bolts on your car and attach the wires. Really not hard.
Last edited by Migz, .
Its not actually made for what people think its made for, its not supposed to help the drain on your system or any of that crap, its just what a lot of people use it for which is actually bad for your electrical supply.
They are made to clean up voltage spikes in your car. If you read the link i provided before it explains that.
DO NOT GET A CAPACITOR. It is not needed in this situation, it will do more harm then good.
This is what you should do instead of a capacitor
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.c ... to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.c ... to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/
A capacitor only holds the charge for a split second, so when the bass hits it pulls its initial power from the capacitor, then the capacitor has to pull the rest from the battery anyway. So its pointless in most situations.
Read this to see why it wouldn't be useful http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=54856
Last edited by Migz, .
Monoblock for subs is normally a far better option. As it gives you a lot more freedom with how you wire your subs. Most monoblocks handle anywhere from 4ohm to 1 ohm, which is great as it makes wiring multiple subs(or multiple voice coils) a lot easier as you've got a wider range of ohms to end up with. Whereas a 2/4 channel, to give the same amount of power as a monoblock would need to be bridged, and majority of these only run at 4ohm once bridged. Which means you have to find a way to wire your subs specifically to 4 ohm, their can be no error at all otherwise you're running your subs at a resistance the amp cant handle.
Not to mention most monoblocks are Class D amplifier, which is much better for bass. Less heat and a lot more efficient.
Not to mention most monoblocks are Class D amplifier, which is much better for bass. Less heat and a lot more efficient.
Had a look at the manual for your amp and it says
So it doesn't matter which set you use, as like Jakg said they will be internally linked, their are just two sets on the outside for ease of wiring.
First thing would be to check your gain, and also check your RCA's, as you might have pulled one out of the amp when moving it.
So it doesn't matter which set you use, as like Jakg said they will be internally linked, their are just two sets on the outside for ease of wiring.
First thing would be to check your gain, and also check your RCA's, as you might have pulled one out of the amp when moving it.
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