Oooh, only a stones throw away this time. I'm interested!

I had a similar problem with the latest driver just after getting my G25. I reverted back to the previous 5.0 driver, but that happened without a hitch. Sorry don't know what to advise apart from things worked OK when I reverted back.

Try installing the lastest version and then uninstalling again, in case something was missed?

People have moved it laterally with the addition of an extra plate. Check here http://forum.rscnet.org/showthread.php?t=277657

Also, this might be of interest for shifter mods http://forum.rscnet.org/showthread.php?t=299371

I initially found the AI were owning me in the XFG, then I realised I was carrying 40% fuel while they had change down to 7%, the clever blighters!

Controller issue, more detail:

Upon installing and starting I found no steering. Looking at the options>controllers screen I can see 3 devices detected which is correct and all the axis were listed.

Moving any axis on my wheel did nothing to the axis previews on the right, same for my joystick.

However, if I woke my wireless gamepad up (press a button) and moved one of it's axis, this was detected and shown in the axis previews. From that point all the other axis on the other controllers worked without having to reassign the axis to functions.

The wheel would work for the whole of a race. Upon starting another race, or visiting pits etc. the wheel would stop working again since the gamepad had gone into hibernation. Wake it up, move an axis and wheel axis resumed.

The fact I've got a gamepad and some have a similar problem with their posh keyboards sounds like the same fault.

I have the same problem with the G25.

I have
Logitech Cordless RumblePad2
Logitech Wingman Strike Force 3D
Logitech G25

I found that if I woke the rumblepad up (it hibernates when not used) and used one of it's axis, it enabled all other axis to work including G25.
This is a little awkward since this sequence is necessary every time I leave the pits, change car etc.

Sounds to me like we have a common problem that another devise is set as default controller

You need to check out the 'Building your own cockpit' section at RSC
http://forum.rscnet.org/forumdisplay.php?f=186

There's plenty there to inspire you, though it will take you a long time to read it all

A website that previews peoples work --> http://www.thewayiplay.com/

Quote from sdether :

Talked to Force Dynamics about this (got another inquiry from the UK) and it turns out, it's just a matter of getting a transformer after all for the UK.

Talk to me if anyone wants a step-down transformer for using US equipment in the UK

Quote from SamH :

110V is pretty standard in the UK for industrial equipment. I have a yellow box transformer lying around here somewhere. Sadly I don't have the money for the seat.. though if I had, you'd be at risk of having your arm ripped out of its socket

Don't confuse the US straight 110V with the UK Site Safety Supply 110V (yellow boxes) since the second type has the centre tap connected to earth (55V-0V-55V). Using equipment designed for one system on the other system may result in damage to the transformer and/or equipment.
...transformers are my day job

Scripts are the way to go
I didn't want to be tied to one method for a car, so I programmed a button to swap mode (even during a race)
Here's my script to disect ( I have 3 controllers, hence high numbered buttons)

Quote from the_angry_angel :

The biggest problem I had in France (Paris to be exact), a few weeks ago (the first time I've ever driven on the wrong side as well), was that there are different rules on the road, in comparison with the UK at least. The law of the road appears to be you have to avoid the crash, especially if you have right of way - if not then it's your fault.

The first thing the old UK Highway Code used to say was do your utmost to avoid a crash, meaning regardless of the other rules. I don't know if it's still there since the new one has been introduced recently. I try and make a point of reading it every few years, it's surprising the number of little known rules you forget.

The worst thing is he'll probably head back to Middlesbrough. Please noooooo, we just got rid of him!

Still got your game password? Download LFS again and you're up and running again

Looks like this guy managed it

Congrats on your G25 Dan. Sounds like you got yours just a week after I got mine, so we're both noobs with it at the moment.

I've found the gear shift an absolute blast to use in the XFG and I don't mind being a little slower because it's worth it for the fun value. I hope that I'll become just as quick in time, I'm having to switch on throttle blip to help.

Because the LRF cars are faster between the gears, there's a little more speed lost using the gear shift. I think I'll be sticking with paddle shift for Road Sport Winter Cup - at least until I'm more familiar with gear shift.

I don't like stick shifting, maybe it's because of the speed of the cars that use it.

In summary; if the fun aspect of using gear shift is outweighed by too much speed loss, I'll use paddle shift. It's all about fun!

Dan - check this idea out for easily swapping between the modes.

My Wingman Strike Force 3D takes the same as my MOMO Racing - 24V, 0.75A - which is handy since I lost one of the power supplies.

As Albieg says, check the details under the joystick.

When chosing a replacement power supply, match the voltage and polarity. Make sure it can provide the requested current as a minimum (you can go bigger, it only uses as much as it needs)

Quote from SamH :

Yep, mate.. you have! LOL!

Doh! I have too... :doh:

Quote from HeerBommel :

Maybe a stupid question but.....

Do I need the auto-cross editor to make auto cross layouts ?

quote from LFS-Manual:
The autocross editor is accessed by pressing SHIFT+U inside the game. In there you can save, load and edit layouts

When I press Shift+U I can only change the view of the car

Try pressing space to show controls if they're hidden

Have I got my speakers the wrong way around, or was Darin sat on the left and his speech coming from the right speaker? (and vice versa)
Nice show though

It's OK to use a power supply with a bigger current capacity than needed. If you find once with, say, 24V and 1.0A then that's usable - the wheel will draw as much as it needs.
Therefore:
Same voltage (24V)
Same or greater current (=>0.75A)
Same polarity (positive centre)

Good viewing, keep 'em coming!

Open properties in master volume (double click speaker icon in system tray)
Choose the other sound card while playback radio button is highlighted. The next application you launch should use this.
Revert back to the other sound card if needed to open more applications, etc.

You mean LFS Display?
It is possible to run this on a second monitor or underneath the LFS window on main monitor

Quote from sam93 :

You shouldn't use the gear change light, you should know when to change gear

sam.

Err, thanks for pointing this out from a post I made in 2005! :doh:
Call me a rebel, but I use the shift light all the time, I have an external one now

Excellent idea, a cheap homemade alternative to expensive aerials. I'd never thought of this, cheers Dan.

I made two this evening; one for the router and one for the client dongle - taped kitchen foil onto card.
...........Signal...Noise...S/N
Before..-63dB...-90dB...30
After....-47dB...-95dB...48

I've always had a problem with our wireless PC, I put it down to the hotwater tank nearly being in the line of sight. I could never get them talking using WPA2, only worked when using WEP encryption. I'll have to try WPA2 again.

Though it will probably reduce the connection to the Wii downstairs