The last 5 episodes of Traffic Cops I've watched ended up strip searching some guy to find drugs. In fact, every damn episode has resulted in drugs somewhere. Also made me realise if you want to get away with a crime, do it during Ramadan when the cops are fasting.
I used to follow a chap on YouTube who had damn near every episode of every police/hmcustoms based show, but got pulled. Now all he has is this, which is a little shitty.
A handful of police forces have been trialling them for a few years and the results have always come back positive. The investment plus running even comes back cheaper than paying RTC officers to do it the old school way. Of course this means some RTC officers will lose their jobs or get moved to a different department.
It is only 20 for England though, as England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own bodies who need to certify the use of items each. Means a shit load extra in costs, but that is devolution for you. Inefficiency and unequal application of nationally funded services.
Why didn't you just link to that article, rather than just hitting the crack pipe and typing whatever comes to mind? Your inane rambles aren't even comical.
If my experiences are anything to go by, chances are your head gasket will go pop soon. As every vehicle I've owned (and a fair few I've come across at work) had pressurisation issues in the coolant system before a head gasket going pop.
I was told this when I did defensive driving (requirement of fleet driving). Position your vehicle in a way that prevents cyclists from undertaking you as it keeps them out of your blind spot. For sure it might piss them off, but that way they can't bitch when you turn on them because the ****er was hiding.
XCNuse: Well I'd get a couple of large carabinas so you can just run the belt through a carabina and attach it to the posts, so it won't slip off. If the belt is rubbing on your neck, chances are it'll break your neck if you crash.
For moving forwards I was referring to if you approach a junction which someone has parked right on so you have to lean forwards to see what is going on.
I imagine the forgetting to set shit before you belt in will be a ballache for some time to come. Which again is why I'd go G-Lock over race harness on a street car. I like the belt to be tight over the lap strap part, but I hate the tight sensation on my chest and am always fighting the belt lock because it kicks in way too soon.
Either put the harness around the headrest or if you want the extra security when not worn, fabup a small bracket, sort of like Mickey Mouse ears which the headrest goes through. But since the headrest posts would more than likely sheer off once you have to put some load through them, you might as well just lash the seatbelts to the posts with a canvas belt, or something of the sort.
Also, how do you actually drive around town with a full harness on? I regularly have to move around, backwards and forwards to see anything at crummy junctions. I've noticed that most people who drive cars with harnesses (be them track spec sports cars, or guys with Saxo's) never have the harness tight enough to actually work, just loosely over their shoulders. I'd stick with a G-Lock, all of the reviews I've seen have been positive.
This is also why you could never insure a street car in the UK if you have a roll cage. Every single insurer will refuse to cover you (or charge extreme amounts), you could choose to not tell them, but your policy will be void in a shunt.
Of course in the US, anything that saves a car over human life will bring down insurance costs.
Performance tyres tend to be semi-slicks and rubbish on anything but bone dry roads.
I have Toyo Proxes for the summer, mounted to my alloys (195/50/15), they are very capable in the wet and fantastic in the dry. No comment on longevity yet because I've only put 3k through them, but from when I got them to now, no real signs of wear.
For winter I use a set of snow biased all seasons, they are mounted to a set of steelies (165/80/13). To be fair they were rather good in the summer, but after getting slightly stuck pointing uphill (16% covered in ice) I tore through the front tyres and they started to aquaplane like a bastard. But the steel wheels took a hell of a beating due to pot holes and what have you, if I'd have been wearing the alloys at the time would result in a badly bend wheel.
Although I had about 4-5ft of snow from late November to mid February, the van was out of its depths purely because having an open diff meant I kept spinning up the inside wheel, so I rocked the truck in that window, which had standard all seasons on.
We don't get the snow fall (normally) in the UK to require dedicated snow tyres with studs and what have you. Which is why it catches is off guard, but my rule of thumb is when the gritters are out use steelies.
Although the last two years have been exceptionally bad up here, I doubt it'll be the norm. If it is, I'll have to get some proper snow tyres, but for now all seasons do the job. It is mostly about getting off the alloys and putting on something that can take the abuse of salt and withstand hitting hidden potholes and the like.
Erm, the Omega got a new set of budget tyres on all four corners when it entered the family in September 2004, when I got rid last September it still had those four budget tyres and it was putting down an average of 9 maybe 10k a year. Admittedly the rear two were down the to TWI so would have needed replacing soon.
I do recall all 3 were convicted for the murder, I believe in Italian law it is similar to America, in that everyone involved in a crime gets sentenced for it. So if you gave a mate a lift home where he kills his wife, you get tried for murder too.
Because I live in the UK, our roads are bad enough in towns and cities, living out in the sticks, it is like driving on a teenagers face. Plus as I've mentioned salt ruins alloys as does clipping the curb. So I'd rather take the 10 minutes to change alloys to steelies when the gritters come out to play. Plus on steelies the van sits slightly higher (Ford design for you, even the speedo was set-up for the smaller car wheels) which is a great advantage when you have 1 mile of dirt road to negotiate before getting onto the much rougher sealed roads. I'll have to take a few photos one day, but if you imagine Soviet Russian quality. That is about accurate.
30 minutes isn't much time to learn the roads, snow and ice is unpredictable, you need to learn how to cope with a sudden loss of traction. I probably covered 1,000 miles over winter and I still wouldn't say I knew full well how long it'd take to come to a complete halt. I also didn't have ABS or traction control to fall back onto, I purely went by feel and total engine brake.
But I still feel I'd benefit from some more time on unpredictable road surfaces because I still found myself coming across "interest" being in the UK we just don't get the wheel time required to really have the skill to drive with any pace on in the snow.
This, especially in the winter. With all of the salt around and the high probability of mounting the curb, you want something to take the impact and keep on going, rather than bending out of shape. I've kept the steelies from my van just to use in the winter for this reason. Keeping the alloys for the summer.
I felt this required two different quote boxes. If you're sliding in the snow you was going too fast for the road conditions or your tyres ability to cope in the conditions. The fault was squarely in your court. You cannot blame nature for shit driving.
The same way anyone gets parts, most parts are made in the EU, it cuts down on Toyota's costs to manufacture parts in the EU, the only thing they ship over is the computers. But recently Toyota has taken to exporting cars made in the UK to Japan because the Japanese have a boner for EU made cars.
The vast majority of Toyota Europe engine parts are made in the UK. Then there are the options of cheap copy parts made in China and sold cheap as shit all across the EU, just hit up a parts supplier. The only part I've had to ship over for my Toyota Hilux Surf is a cylinder head because the 2.4TD head is still made in Japan (technically it is just the 2.8TD head, but it is only made new in Japan anyway), over here we're tooled up for a different TD engine. But then it was only 699GBP for the whole head ready to go on, plus cam bet kit and all gaskets, delivered to my door.
A mix of time and money. I've seen some China specials on eBay for a couple of hundred, but they probably aren't up to much, I'd need to spend some time reading into what to look for.