The vast majority will also paint on some rubber which ruins how the car corners as you need some sidewall flex and super low profile tyres have none. The sad part is they are leaving the factory with the biggest wheels possible and a tiny coating of rubber because it "looks sporty". Makes the baby Jebus cry.
The biggest I'd go upto is 15" with the brakes from an RS2k (280mm IIRC), maybe 16" if I want to stick on the 300mm ST170 brake pack, but it is unlikely. 13" (165/80/13) doesn't leave you many options when it comes to uprating the brakes, but I can easily keep the same overall size by going to 15" (195/55/15) which leaves me more options brakes wise, won't knock the speedo out of calibration and won't ruing the gearing. Other advantage is it opens up the tyres selection so I can get something a little bit more sticky.
Quality game. Get the F350 mod, it gives it a diesel engines characteristics, plus you can get stuff to land in the open box, as well as it looks slightly better without bumping the poly count too much.
The road sees about 10 cars a day, mostly tourists, but visibility is so good you can see a car from miles away. One of the other roads I take is nicer at night because it is full of blind bends where headlights make life a lot easier.
It is a fun bit of road, there are other more challenging route, but I like this one for a shake down.
There are many points where I'd like something with more poke, but keeping the speed up with a low powered vehicle is such a hard job, when it flows from corner to corner, you have a grin from ear to ear.
Course you can, you don't need to go sideways or break traction all of the time to have fun on a twisty road. The lack of poke does take away a little fun when pushing down a bit of straight road (on the plus it means I never get time to speed), which is why I am collecting the parts needed for a TDi swap, but I have a laugh over the Moors.
Would like to get an MX5 to take it down the same bit of road as I suspect some top down hooning would be even more fun.
When I refine camera mounting I'll get some film of a Moors dash. Wish I could of got some shots today, even though it was foggy visibility was ~1 mile, so was able to decide if I could hit the apex or not well in advance.
My van has 0 driving aides. No PAS, no ABS, no TC, no ESP. The only safety item is the seat belt and one airbag for the driver. So you have to work hard to hit the corners carrying any sort of speed, but it is so rewarding.
The lack of computers does make dropping in a TDi set up easier and by using the NA flywheel I can keep the IB5 box, which means no need to change the subframe (easier job already). Using a Saab intercooler mounted upside down behind the front bumper also means better power than sporting the Ford intercooler.
Should make a nice summer project as I have to work outside.
Of course, I like it more than I should because I saved her from a scrap yard and with some very little fettling takes some beating over the Moors and I end up fighting above my weight and coming out on top (knowing the roads helps).
Plus there is something that makes me giggle about hooning a van and not under steering into a tree. It isn't the most powerful vehicle in the world (new it only had 60 ponies), but we have fun. Looking forward to converting it into a TDi. That will mean throwing on an LSD (has a habbit of spinning up the inside tyre as it is on a shorter shaft), bigger sticker tyres and better brakes. But will make the tourist thrashing all the more fun as I would be able to keep up better on the straights, so I don't have to work as hard through the twisties.
Been out enjoying the Moors. Was extra fun as we had snow yesterday and it is still up there. I think I am pushing the old girl too hard though, as every time I've gone out for a hoon the brakes and tyres having been steaming by the time I finish.
I don't think the digicam looks right, but I like the idea of using flock in more places than just dash and interior trim.
[edit: If you want to save some pennies, buy a bodywork fibreglass kit. They are ~20quid and can be applied to anything, so you could get the cardboard in the shape you want, then just fibreglass over it and strip off the cardboard, applying more layers of fibreglass until it is the rigidity you want. It doesn't have to be made out of anything fancy like carbon fibre or steel sheeting, it'll still do the same job.
As I recall you have to pay to get new tags on your plates every year, which is pretty much the same thing. We just call it how it is and you put a little sticker in the window rather than on your plate.
Actually they are part of a larger see what is behind you package. They are to look behind you in the spots you can't see with the rear view mirror. Bikes come up again as they are easy to miss if riding in a blind spot.
When I am driving a car with 3 mirrors I will check all three in a sweeping motion as chances are you'll pick something up in one mirror you don't see in another. They aren't just for changing lanes on the highway.
I actually use mine more when driving in town because I know there is a chance someone on a push bike will be sneaking up on me.
When I was taught to setup wing mirrors I was told to have a small amount (I'd say about 1-2% of the overall mirror) of bodywork showing in side closest to the vehicle as it helps you see someone sat on your rear quarters. If you arrange them that no bodywork is visible there is a chance you've just created a blind spot. The best way to find out is if you have someone walk round the back of your vehicle, you want them to be visible for as long as possible. A lot of cars I've jumped in (rentals, a works car, etc) have had the mirrors set up so badly all you could see in them was myself and/or the car or so far out I can can't see a car until it is almost parallel with the front seats. Might as well remove them completely if you don't use them right.
You shoulder check when you set off from a stationary position. You shouldn't shoulder check while on the move as your arms will naturally follow your body when you look back plus it means taking your eyes off the road for much longer than you ever should.
Very true, for a large enough vehicle that could work, but something bike/pedestrian sized, tough luck. I've had a guy try and back me out before but he stood in a perfect blind spot (this was in a 96 Omega Saloon). Nothing I did from the drivers seat allowed me to see him. I had to get out and ask him to move.
They are physical blind spots in my van. No matter how much shoulder checking I do, without opening the window and sticking my head out, but that only works on the drivers side, I am buggered down the left side.
And even with a shoulder check a vehicle could still be hidden due to the fact that you need metal supports to keep the roof on.
I strapped my old Xda IIi (in a leather case) to the sun visor using a canvas belt. Not the best way of doing things, but it is a system I've used many times in the past.
I did have a windscreen mounted universal phone cradle which worked well, but it went walk about a few months ago. The advantage to that is any phone with a camera will do the job.
It all stems from class. It was okay to see a peasants nipples but not a ladies. That was quite unladylike. But was no uncommon for a peasant woman to walk around topless and no one would bat an eye lid. Naturally the prudes that are Victorians quashed this because it was quite vulgar.
However, the class reason still exists, which is why you can see third world titties on TV during the middle of the day and no censorship, but have to wait until after the watershed to see Western tits.
Testing out a camera and ways to mount it. I only did around half of my drive to work, but it gives you an idea of what my commute looks like. If you watch it enough to see me jump out, there was someone's exhaust tip on the road (I had to go wide to miss it going up the hill) which couldn't be left there, which is why I actually turned around. I was going to drive into town.
I have slightly doctored the footage to make it fit inside a 15min window and disabled audio because everything was drowned out by vibrations between the mic and the sun visor (need to work on that).
Very true, but when I was doing defensive driving, I saw a scooter approaching in my rear view mirror (Ford Focus Mk2), then he vanished. I could still hear the can full of angry bees, but couldn't for the life of me see him. Every now and then I'd get a glimpse of arm, then it'd vanish again. That went on for about a mile until I used a turn right filter lane and he shot past in the inside. But I didn't see him until he was half way up the car. It is very easy to lose a bike when you're in a vehicle full of blind spots.
As I drove a van before I drove a car, I learnt quickly what a bastard they can be to drive, so I follow the rule of "if I can't see your mirrors, you can't see me" so far I have never had a problem. A guy who once overtook me and filled in the gap I was leaving between a lorry and myself had a big problem when the lorry had to reverse to get around a tight bend and couldn't see said fellow.
I was tempted to do nothing about it and allow a form of natural justice, but then felt guilty for thinking that and jumped out to stop the lorry.
There have been a lot of times where I've seen someone sat right up the back bumper of a truck/bus and then get reversed onto because they are in a huge blind spot.