with auto clutch off, the car rolls, doens't it?

That mirror thing is well, that would be nice indeed!

Don't get me wrong: the support is good when the elastics are in place.

There are 4 or 5 of them, they tend to snap, so you feel that some support goes then while racing.

After race have to remove leather, reattach the elastic and it's ok again.

But when 1 snaps, more pressure on others, so the following elastics snap sooner

(note, not really snapping, just the hooks come out of the holes, it's not damaged).


But, as I said, newer models should not have this problem.

I have one for a few months now!

I used it a lot, the seat is just great. Can't find a single thing that is bad about it.

Only the elastics in the backrest tent to jump loose. 'PETS'. It's easy re-attached, but during racing it is quite annoying, just feeling a bit less support on your back.

The manufacturer said it was a production error and was already fixed (happend before december ), he offered to send me a new backrest.

Quote from george_tsiros :

you don't need force feedback to do that

in fact, force feedback is output. not input.

when the brakes need more pressure to work, it is a matter of software, not hardware.

the feel of the pedal doesn't change much, if at all.

Ever raced real car?
You even feel the pedal when brakes start to warm up. Overheating the fluid makes pedal really soft.
Or a feeling like stepping on a brick and still no brake power.
Would be awesomely cool, FF brakepedal.

But I think i'd destroy it

One sets some offset with toe-settings?

With TOE-OUT applied, the inner wheel has a LOT of the effect ackerman would give already ...

Didn't think of that

* you have dutch nick, any story behind that? *

Quote from danthebangerboy :

I hope the original sterter of this thread doesnt mind me adding to this thread, as i hope to be helpful!

Ok, i have done some screenshots of damage that i have incurred in an XFG, i thought it would be easier to just put the images up, rather than people having to trawl through multiple replays with 15 odd cars to find the relavent bits.

I have labelled the files as follows,

body damage stage1 = cosmetic damage; a few scuffs and dented bodywork, doesnt affect the handling of the car at all.

body damage stage2 = worse body damage, together with damage to one or more wheels, causing the car to bounce when under power or when steering, and/or causing the car to "crab" ie. requiring the driver (you!) to steer slightly in one direction to keep the car in a straight line. This is hard at speed, as when you ease off the power or brake the crabbing effect will nearly always change, throwing the car in a different direction. This can cause your car to snake as its so easy to over correct in this uncertian situation and once the snaking starts, it is very difficult to gain control again. Personally, If i havent regained control after 2 snakes then i tend to brake and pray that i am still on my wheels when i come to a standstill! This is because the damage has altered the geomatry of the car, causing the wheels to be pointing in interesting directions. It will be possible to limp to the pits in this situation but as mentioned above, the car will be significantly harder to control at higher speeds and going fast will almost certianly cause snaking and a big crash!!

body damage stage3 = seriously damaged car, Bodywork wrecked, wheels at hideous angles, it is not good! In the top 2 images you can see that the rear wheels are very close together indeed. I took a corner at 20mph and rolled myself over because the car geometry is seriously altered in this situation. I did no less than 3 rollovers in this race, one on each corner as i luckily landed on my wheels due to my low speed, until i clipped a barrier on the 4th attempt and spent the rest of the race on my roof, as you can see!
In the bottom images all 4 wheels were not where they should have been and the car was literally disabled, all i could do was sit on the spot and wheelspin forever. both front wheels were simply bouncing up and down and the rear ones were wrecked as well. Luckily, someone hepfully tipped me over before i died of old age trying to move!


I hope i have added a helpul insight and once again, sorry for hijacking this thread, although i believe it is on topic.

True.
Sometimes geometry damages is NOT seen at suspension bars! I have seen several times, that car behaves very weird, but nothing to see at f10.

Pull the fuse and ABS is off, quite easy.



Still, when it comes to simulation ...

When the ABS hits in, i would NEED to feel it in 1) the brakepedal!! (today's FF don't have it), and 2) in steering wheel.

Well, I think making a mod that ticks the brakepedal is possible to get the feeling. But LFS would have to send a signal out. Too bad i am really not into this things.


How can I corner while ABS is hitting in, and I don't feel a thing about it ... I'd turn it off and feel my wheels block

Quote from DragonCommando :

Just about every car in production today measures the dash displayed speed from the transmission, the wheel speed sensors are reserved for ABS and traction control. I have changed the speed sensor on alot of newer cars.

On cable driven cars it was either taken from the transmission or from one of the non driven wheels. The only examples I can think of right now that take it from a wheel are the DMC12 and older porsches. Other than that, they mostly take it from the transmission.

??

Well, nowadays every wheel is just measured apart. The signal gets put on the car's databus. Every component that needs it gets it from there: abs, engine control, traction control, ESP, stability, whatever.

The speedsignal from differential is just not relevant anymore. That's for old cars ...

Why would you ever want to degrade a car?

For the GTR races, the XRR is mine because of the sequential gearbox

Am I missing something?
What car has ABS?

Quote from Inouva :

Well i say the same when i look and discover the VWS dont have the 3 pedals (Acel,Breake,Cluctch) :spin:

Isn't there a DSG gearbox inside? It just needs 2 then, like every automatic gearbox?

Ah, nice cooler
But when the air is cooler when it goes inside the cooler, you always win more. 3% more air at 10 degrees temperature drop (Celcius).

The wheeldiameter can be a solution for sure, but it'll take spooltime. Twin-setup maybe?

Anyway, it's really not easy, and maybe it even isn't theoreticcally explanable for the sake of normality Mostly it's a combination of knowing what you do and experience.

Good luck with your setup, got a story running somewhere on the net?

But, well, the XRR drives quite predictive in terms of boost. So not that bad.

Quote from BigPeBe :

I'm not sure if this is what MAD3.0L explained, but if your boost drops off at certain rpm's without any reason, it's not working properly. Probably wastegate opening in wrong situations and not able to keep the desired boost.

When turbo works as it should, it first wakes up and then keeps to boost as where it is adjusted for, as long as you keep your foot down.

As big engine tend to suck in a lot of air at high RPM it is good possible the (small) turbo can't blow that amount of air. So it gets sucked a bit, dropping boost. A turbo can spin a certain amount of RPM (somewhere between 110.000 and 170.000) and for each turbo the efficiency is, just as with engines, at a certain RPM.

So when you 1) push your turbo above a certain RPM (like with old air-filters (the "i hold my hand on the vacuum cleaner hose"-effect) ) 2) Make TOO much boost, it drops performance, and another thing is that the outgoing air will be too heated by the bad performing turbo, dropping Power drastically.

( My GTT for example, will have 200nm torque at 3000rpm, and its HP will be at 140hp at 5500 RPM, running on 14psi of pressure.

When I, with my small turbo, run on 20psi, I measure 220nm torque at 3000RPM (good, increase), but 135hp at 5500 RPM! Performancedrop coz turbo got out of range.

Yes, I wanted to mention but I read your last line

For my 1.4 GTT (renault 5) and hybrid turbo the boost just climbs
It's in there at 2000rpm (well, current turbo's are way better then they were in the 80's).

Well, it's very hard to say how a turbo would react, tbh

But, that bug, is it reported anywere? Think it is stupid to spin turbo while out of gas

To react on MAD"s first line, more RPS is more air, for so far you were wrong

It IS the exhaust gas, the heat makes it expand so more volume. It all comes together. SO you are right in a way but not explaining it properly

Very nice league! Next race LX6

Bit of an old topic, but I think the turbo is very well simulated.

Turbo spins trough energy in exhaust and depends on these factors:

Amount of exhaust gas (RPM and Throtlleposition)
Temperature of exhaust gas (hotter = more energy, hot gas expands and creates more volume to spin turbo)
Load of engine (well, more torque gives more push in exhaust)

These three combined will not get very linear turbolag.

I think the lag is very good, when off-throttle, you need about half a sec to spin back the turbo. I am experiencing it very well with the XRR on Westhill. The first lefthand corner, you need to brake a tiny bit and step on it again. When you do that with one foot, you have a turbolag. When doing a left-foot brake and applying full-throttle to keep turbo spinning, you accelerate out of the corner much quicker.

This experience is very realistic to me TBH. (Oh, i drive a Renault 5 GTT, so i know turbo LAG )

The reason you don;t get full pressure in 1st gear is that the the amount of time is too short, when hitting rev-limiter the torque drops massively, so no turbopressure there.





But, I found this topic to report a bug in the game, and don't know where to put it:

When out of fuel, applying throttle still spins the turbo (testen when rolling) That's impossible.

Quote from J@tko :

The Greek Alphabet does

I like that one

YEah, warming up your brakes would be cool...

But oh oh, that '1st corners' will be more interesting then they already are

Coulnd't help looking that one up


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... 2LF7g&feature=related

Potver, ik hou m nog wel op de baan, maar ben nog niet rap genoeg ben ik bang

Ben benieuwd straks!

It will be my first official League racing
I think I'll be there

I am só satisfied with my setup, my friends just come over to race.

Got a Rinoseat and a G25 about 1 meter distance of a nice, white wall, and a MT1050 bought cheap on ebay projecting 1,50 meters of cockpit in front of my nose

I tell you, racing is a lot of fun for in total € 800 euro's.