Pressing the accelerator does not raise RPM's.

The turbo-spooling simulation is not taking into account whether engine is running, it looks like it is just a RPM * THROTTLEPOSITION simulation, instead of RPM * DELIVERED TORQUE simulation (which would come a bit closer to real )

Well, that's some thinking, but it sucks air from that turbo too. Since there is no new source of energy (like, burning fuel), the turbo will not spin faster. But, you are partly right: the turbo can be spinning. I really mean it different

So I will state it otherwise:

When out of fuel, applying throttle still generates boost (tested when rolling) That's impossible.

I wanted to point out this bug back then:

When out of fuel, applying throttle still spins the turbo (tested when rolling) That's impossible.

Is there taken knowledge of this?

First of all, well, i read about posting of this improvement before, but serious, never found it... I also did not notice it in 'the suggestions list', but I know there must be people mentioned it.

Also, what problem I have?

The <10 >90% tire wear thing. I can't use it, and even lost some races trough it. I often JUSt want my front tires to be changed. So I have to gamble what setting I should take. Resulting in having to pit twice, when I set it too low so I had no tire changed.

I have a long race coming up now, and have a lot of trouble with my LF tire. I need to change it before 40 laps, the other tires will last. Having to change them all is not best option, and having the risk of changing none also is not. For now, I'll live with it But hope to see the possibility descriped now in future:

Also, there are some options to solve it:

1)
First, show maximum tirewear in percentages. Not the amount of blue/green thread or weakest flat spot.
why not? Real racers don't have this luxury, they don't know exact how bad they tires are. So we shoudn't too

2)
Just add the option what wheel should be changed. So I can say change LF and RF or LR and LF whatever.

When a topic exists, please point me to that direction/discussion. Then, sorry for double post.

I use mates@track for that purpose ...

Is LFS simulating wheelspeed or only torque-transportation ?

Numberplate = cool

Quote from obsolum :

Boy, you really don't know George, do you? Who do you think that is in his avatar? And - don't take this personally - but I dare say that he's a bit more knowledgeable about this kind of stuff than you are

SOrry, i did not notice I guess his answer would be 'yes, I have driven a race car', my excuses for that.

Though, you don't know me and what I do either. I like sharing knowledge! And the discussion of change of feeling in brakepedal

Yes and no. I had once that I thought 1 one gone (I heard one snap) and saw there were 2 (which I didn't feel at once), but you WILL feel difference if they are attached. You don't need to remove the leather, just push your hand on the back, you feel the elastics, they are perfectly divided.

At the back, low, there is this velcro to fix it. Just loosen that, and you can pull it upwards. It's quite tight, but you can remove and re-use it and it will be as new, so that's good designed.

with auto clutch off, the car rolls, doens't it?

That mirror thing is well, that would be nice indeed!

Don't get me wrong: the support is good when the elastics are in place.

There are 4 or 5 of them, they tend to snap, so you feel that some support goes then while racing.

After race have to remove leather, reattach the elastic and it's ok again.

But when 1 snaps, more pressure on others, so the following elastics snap sooner

(note, not really snapping, just the hooks come out of the holes, it's not damaged).


But, as I said, newer models should not have this problem.

I have one for a few months now!

I used it a lot, the seat is just great. Can't find a single thing that is bad about it.

Only the elastics in the backrest tent to jump loose. 'PETS'. It's easy re-attached, but during racing it is quite annoying, just feeling a bit less support on your back.

The manufacturer said it was a production error and was already fixed (happend before december ), he offered to send me a new backrest.

Quote from george_tsiros :

you don't need force feedback to do that

in fact, force feedback is output. not input.

when the brakes need more pressure to work, it is a matter of software, not hardware.

the feel of the pedal doesn't change much, if at all.

Ever raced real car?
You even feel the pedal when brakes start to warm up. Overheating the fluid makes pedal really soft.
Or a feeling like stepping on a brick and still no brake power.
Would be awesomely cool, FF brakepedal.

But I think i'd destroy it

One sets some offset with toe-settings?

With TOE-OUT applied, the inner wheel has a LOT of the effect ackerman would give already ...

Didn't think of that

* you have dutch nick, any story behind that? *

Quote from danthebangerboy :

I hope the original sterter of this thread doesnt mind me adding to this thread, as i hope to be helpful!

Ok, i have done some screenshots of damage that i have incurred in an XFG, i thought it would be easier to just put the images up, rather than people having to trawl through multiple replays with 15 odd cars to find the relavent bits.

I have labelled the files as follows,

body damage stage1 = cosmetic damage; a few scuffs and dented bodywork, doesnt affect the handling of the car at all.

body damage stage2 = worse body damage, together with damage to one or more wheels, causing the car to bounce when under power or when steering, and/or causing the car to "crab" ie. requiring the driver (you!) to steer slightly in one direction to keep the car in a straight line. This is hard at speed, as when you ease off the power or brake the crabbing effect will nearly always change, throwing the car in a different direction. This can cause your car to snake as its so easy to over correct in this uncertian situation and once the snaking starts, it is very difficult to gain control again. Personally, If i havent regained control after 2 snakes then i tend to brake and pray that i am still on my wheels when i come to a standstill! This is because the damage has altered the geomatry of the car, causing the wheels to be pointing in interesting directions. It will be possible to limp to the pits in this situation but as mentioned above, the car will be significantly harder to control at higher speeds and going fast will almost certianly cause snaking and a big crash!!

body damage stage3 = seriously damaged car, Bodywork wrecked, wheels at hideous angles, it is not good! In the top 2 images you can see that the rear wheels are very close together indeed. I took a corner at 20mph and rolled myself over because the car geometry is seriously altered in this situation. I did no less than 3 rollovers in this race, one on each corner as i luckily landed on my wheels due to my low speed, until i clipped a barrier on the 4th attempt and spent the rest of the race on my roof, as you can see!
In the bottom images all 4 wheels were not where they should have been and the car was literally disabled, all i could do was sit on the spot and wheelspin forever. both front wheels were simply bouncing up and down and the rear ones were wrecked as well. Luckily, someone hepfully tipped me over before i died of old age trying to move!


I hope i have added a helpul insight and once again, sorry for hijacking this thread, although i believe it is on topic.

True.
Sometimes geometry damages is NOT seen at suspension bars! I have seen several times, that car behaves very weird, but nothing to see at f10.

Pull the fuse and ABS is off, quite easy.



Still, when it comes to simulation ...

When the ABS hits in, i would NEED to feel it in 1) the brakepedal!! (today's FF don't have it), and 2) in steering wheel.

Well, I think making a mod that ticks the brakepedal is possible to get the feeling. But LFS would have to send a signal out. Too bad i am really not into this things.


How can I corner while ABS is hitting in, and I don't feel a thing about it ... I'd turn it off and feel my wheels block

Quote from DragonCommando :

Just about every car in production today measures the dash displayed speed from the transmission, the wheel speed sensors are reserved for ABS and traction control. I have changed the speed sensor on alot of newer cars.

On cable driven cars it was either taken from the transmission or from one of the non driven wheels. The only examples I can think of right now that take it from a wheel are the DMC12 and older porsches. Other than that, they mostly take it from the transmission.

??

Well, nowadays every wheel is just measured apart. The signal gets put on the car's databus. Every component that needs it gets it from there: abs, engine control, traction control, ESP, stability, whatever.

The speedsignal from differential is just not relevant anymore. That's for old cars ...

Why would you ever want to degrade a car?

For the GTR races, the XRR is mine because of the sequential gearbox

Am I missing something?
What car has ABS?

Quote from Inouva :

Well i say the same when i look and discover the VWS dont have the 3 pedals (Acel,Breake,Cluctch) :spin:

Isn't there a DSG gearbox inside? It just needs 2 then, like every automatic gearbox?

Ah, nice cooler
But when the air is cooler when it goes inside the cooler, you always win more. 3% more air at 10 degrees temperature drop (Celcius).

The wheeldiameter can be a solution for sure, but it'll take spooltime. Twin-setup maybe?

Anyway, it's really not easy, and maybe it even isn't theoreticcally explanable for the sake of normality Mostly it's a combination of knowing what you do and experience.

Good luck with your setup, got a story running somewhere on the net?

But, well, the XRR drives quite predictive in terms of boost. So not that bad.

Quote from BigPeBe :

I'm not sure if this is what MAD3.0L explained, but if your boost drops off at certain rpm's without any reason, it's not working properly. Probably wastegate opening in wrong situations and not able to keep the desired boost.

When turbo works as it should, it first wakes up and then keeps to boost as where it is adjusted for, as long as you keep your foot down.

As big engine tend to suck in a lot of air at high RPM it is good possible the (small) turbo can't blow that amount of air. So it gets sucked a bit, dropping boost. A turbo can spin a certain amount of RPM (somewhere between 110.000 and 170.000) and for each turbo the efficiency is, just as with engines, at a certain RPM.

So when you 1) push your turbo above a certain RPM (like with old air-filters (the "i hold my hand on the vacuum cleaner hose"-effect) ) 2) Make TOO much boost, it drops performance, and another thing is that the outgoing air will be too heated by the bad performing turbo, dropping Power drastically.

( My GTT for example, will have 200nm torque at 3000rpm, and its HP will be at 140hp at 5500 RPM, running on 14psi of pressure.

When I, with my small turbo, run on 20psi, I measure 220nm torque at 3000RPM (good, increase), but 135hp at 5500 RPM! Performancedrop coz turbo got out of range.

Yes, I wanted to mention but I read your last line

For my 1.4 GTT (renault 5) and hybrid turbo the boost just climbs
It's in there at 2000rpm (well, current turbo's are way better then they were in the 80's).

Well, it's very hard to say how a turbo would react, tbh

But, that bug, is it reported anywere? Think it is stupid to spin turbo while out of gas

To react on MAD"s first line, more RPS is more air, for so far you were wrong

It IS the exhaust gas, the heat makes it expand so more volume. It all comes together. SO you are right in a way but not explaining it properly