I could say a few things, you can

A. Clean out the PC case, dust can slow a PC down.

B. Clean up the registry, a clean and error-free registry boosts the system. There are a few tools that do so.

C. Defragment your hard drives at least once a month

And if that doesn't work,

D. Upgrade the weakest part of the system (the least powerful) to a newer part
or
E. Reformat the whole PC and start from scratch (you will lose all your data)

Last edited by Zipppy, Tue, 11 Jan 2011 16:43.

Reading the progress report on LFS.net made me understand tires a bit better, it's actually hard to believe that anything filled with air deforms so much in a second. It's somewhat like rocket science IMO, but I've always been facinated by physics of all types, despite my difficulty with mathematics.

Quote from Hahmo :

Bump!
Just interested, is it possible to make these in .eng?

nope.



anyway Nille, This program was made for older versions of the OutGauge system (before Z25 if I remember). If you want it to run on Z28 you need a script that converts the output from LFS Z28's OutGauge to the older Outgauge.

Last edited by Zipppy, Sat, 27 Nov 2010 07:32.

I'm wondering here, are there any decent RB4 Bodykits? I have seen a few, but I am not that satisfied with the lack of resources.

Bump, but I have noticed it happen to a few people just now, and they're people I see every day on the servers.

My say here is, If the speedometer has it as the maximum speed, it doesn't mean it can reach it. Rolling resistance and aero resistance slow the car down, sometimes the engine can't handle it.

It is the way most older games I've seen do it, like Midtown Madness 1&2 for example.

I'll give this a shot tomorrow, I've been waiting for something like this to come along.

Copied from LFS.net:

Any version of Microsoft Windows, 32 or 64 bit
1 GHz CPU, 256 MB memory, 3D graphics card


Even my netbook can run it. I get 15 to 50 FPS depending on the scenario. My netbook has an onboard Intel GMA 500 (10 MB)

I tried doing the mod this past weekend, it has improved the feel a lot, although I put an extra rubber o-ring along with the recommended "one" on the stick, it's still good but a bit stiff to shift into reverse.

I've just gotten FaceTrackNoIR to work by only using the integrated "fake" trackIR interface, and it works but it's a bit touchy atm.

Last edited by Zipppy, Tue, 5 Oct 2010 02:57.

Like I said in my first post, neither my steering wheel axis or joystick axis work under this circumstance. It has to point to the LFS install.

I have that testing mode enabled, the Virtual Joystick works in other programs just fine as well. :\

I'll do a fresh reinstall of LFS, as it works in most cases as a last resort.

I can't find an option that says "look sensitivity" anywhere, unless I put it into mouse or steering look. I'll try reinstalling FaceAPI to see if it fixes the issue.

EDIT: nope, did not work.

I think other people should give it a shot, and check if it works for them, I find it simple to set up, you don't need to rig up an array of LEDs.

Last edited by Zipppy, Fri, 1 Oct 2010 02:50.

I have been attempting to make a free substitute for TrackIR, FacetrackNoIR (only requires webcam, no headgear) to work with LFS via a PPJoy virtual joystick, and I'm not successful.

LFS detects all the axes just fine, I defined them all to their appropriate commands, but LFS won't make the view rotate, pitch or roll if I move my head (aka the joystick). It has worked perfectly when I was testing it before, but it stopped working somehow.

"axis" look is enabled, I have even tested it with both my steering wheel and joystick, it still doesn't work for some apparent reason. Right now I'm using the POV buttons on my wheel.

Before FacetrackNoIR, I had FreeTrack, but it is not fully compatible with Windows 7 64-bit. It worked perfectly before I installed W7 64-bit.

Last edited by Zipppy, Fri, 1 Oct 2010 01:31.

Quote from Tomba(FIN) :

Do it since it's very easy to and worth it! Mine is a little stiffer than on the video, I like it a lot. I have 2mm of rubber spacers on down going spring and about 10mm plastic on bearing one.
You can make the rubber spacers yourself if you don't have ones, just cut some rubber in the right size

A quick search in my father's cluttered office basement only found a (very) narrow copper tube (which appears to be 75% taller than an SD card), but I can still use it.
I'll ask my father if he has any rubber spacers/O-rings around. If not, I'll buy them at a local department store.

My mother is also trying to persuade me to not do this mod. I've re-assembled at least 50 MacBooks (All models) in 3-4 months, and she doubts that I can reassemble my G25. I've tinkered with electronics for 10 years.

Last edited by Zipppy, Wed, 29 Sep 2010 23:18.

Looks cool, I might do this mod to my G25, and as I'm a bit unsatisified with the weak resistance on the shifter.

Haha, he just played a replay and pretended to drive it.

Btw TehPaws, the wheel itself looked extremely flimsy, he broke it at about 0:45, and he forced it. I've done stress testing with my G25 and I had no signs of breaking parts.


EDIT: actually wonder why he has a MOMO plugged in too?

I've had a MOMO Racing wheel as my first wheel, I used it constantly for 2 years and I loved it, until my FFB motor shorted out, I do admit the steering was heavy compared to my current G25, I gave my momo to my godfather and he enjoys it still. A used G25 or G27 that is in good shape at a good price should be good too.

One thing I would do to prevent the wheel from slipping off would be to put a piece of rubber under each clamp (I used high friction silicone tape, which allows me to pull the whole desk while holding the wheel, rubber should add similar friction) The G25 has holes on the shifter, wheel and pedals for bolting onto a desk or playseat. I have my shifter bolted to a custom-built wooden support I have screwed into my desk.

Okay, to wrap things up, I just bought an Athlon II X3 455, and it works great, but it's now leading me to a problem:

My computer occasionally/randomly crashes when in use. I have 2 sticks that are different brands/speeds of DDR2 RAM installed, and they are 1GB each. One runs at 533 MHz and another is 667 MHz. I have set the RAM sticks to both run at 533 MHz via the BIOS. I'm supposing the RAM is the issue, that it's too slow to cope with the CPU

Quote from GenesisX :

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ ... aspx?Item=N82E16819103706

How about that? Quad core, and @ 45nm, you'll be running a lot cooler. The person in the comments said that cards above 5770 wouldn't bottleneck it. And from the older tech, it seems like it should do a better job. I'd say look for at least an Athlon II or such AM3 cards. You may not be able to use it to the fullest potential, but it enables chances like upgrading to an AM3 board, and increased performance resulting in better futureproofing.

Cheers!

The problem is, that CPU isn't in the list of compatible CPUs, and I don't feel like buying a new board just to use a new CPU. I'm also looking for something that gives my computer a pick-up, not a complete overhaul.

ASUS has released a beta BIOS for AM3 support for my board a short while ago.

Have you tried sending it to Logitech for warranty replacement? you could also try reinstalling sound card drivers.

Quote from birder :

Truck Racing for free

There you go

http://shop.nitrostuntracing.f ... t_info.php?products_id=21

It won't run on my end :\

I'm using 64-bit Windows 7.

Xpadder can do it. I've done it myself. the key to make the headlights flash is "G", not "3". 3 toggles the lights on and off.