Quote from Jakg :

i get about 100 fps all the time, i added AA and AF to the .exe but i got thr same FPS and it looked the same, so i presume that the game must run sse.exe or no_sse.exe, if so, what would a "Modern" 64 bit San Diego from AMD use? i think SSE but i might be wrong

SSE... at least I think so, even I use SSE.exe and I have not-so-modern AXP2200+.

Quote :

and are their any texture downloads?

Check my recent post here:

http://forum.rscnet.org/showpo ... p=3160948&postcount=3

well i'll download RBRdll again then (i did download tons of stuff, then got CTD's, and i tried to get RBRSSII or whatever it's name is, and as all of the links are Rapidshare i thought "hey, some kind Tsr. Member gave me a month subcription, ill try it", but one of the links wont open in firefox (the one that isnt rapidshare, leaving me with an incomplete download), i would try IE... if it worked on my PC that is!

Quote from deggis :

If Richard Burns was still alive [...]

I think it's just appropriate (sp?) to let RBR rest. R.I.P. Richard Burns, he was a really good driver with a good personality

But on the other hand it would be nice to see such a good Rally-Sim again

The game isn't too difficult. A bit of training and even the most difficult setting is a joke.

Just small hints: Disable the visible pacenotes and increase the distance at which the copilot calls out the pacenotes slightly. And always leave a small safety margin.

Vain

Quote from Vain :

The game isn't too difficult. A bit of training and even the most difficult setting is a joke.

Just small hints: Disable the visible pacenotes and increase the distance at which the copilot calls out the pacenotes slightly. And always leave a small safety margin.

Vain

Lol, I find it impossible to beat the stage records for most of the Japan, France and Aus SS's.. It is hard It's still fun trying to improve on my own times so there goes

thisnameistaken just reminded me of another point. The pacenotes are atrocious for most stages, and worst of all they change even during a single stage. A fast left at the beginning of the stage is fine but a fast left towards the middle or end is more like a fast left tightens or a medium. It's annoying.. oh and, the pacenotes really need to exercise "tightens" waay more frequently.

The copilot is the reason why you should always drive a stage befoe driving it in the championship. Remember where the pacenotes are wrong and you can really put down great times.
The Aussie records are easy. Mineshaft is a bit tricky, you have to get the 3rd quarter right (that part is so twisty the copilot has to skip some of the minor turns). For the French rally you need a good setup. Lift-off oversteer is great on gravel. But I don't know how Mr. Burns thought that that would also do anything good on tarmac. Also reduce brakes a fair bit. You seldomly brake in a straight line. When you have to brake during cornering and the braking-force is too high you don't brake but break, the car.
And in Japan you have to stop thinking to be good. That stages are so extremely quick yet narrow that any thought will delay your reactions that tiny bit too much.

Oh, I forgot my best hint: Always watch the replay. You need the pause. Drive 5-8 minutes and then watch 5-8 minutes. The replays look great and will allow you to relax a bit so you're fully focused on the next stage.
And never drive when you can't concentrate on the pacenotes. That'd be silly.

Vain

got the greatest massage the other day in Aus, "Brakes Gone", and surprisingly it didn't slow me down to much, as i barely braked once i got the hang of sliding about, although atm i drive with auto (i use manual in LFS, but i just need to much concentration with RBR), so when i brake it puts me in reverse!

I use the gears and revs to control my speed. In a 6 speed car "flat" equals 6th gear, light equals 5th, fast equals 4th, etc. Adjust high or low revs for stage-section. High 4th gear for "fast" on a wide section, low 4th gear on a narrow section. High 3rd if it's raining.
That get's you some consistancy.

Vain

flat? don't make me laugh, i couldn't take that corner flat in a mini!

Not sure what caused that reply. Is the lowest degree corner not "flat" in the english version?
But you always have to get off the throttle or stay on the throttle and tip the brakes to get some weight to the front so the car turns in. At least on snow and some gravel-sections.

Vain

Quote from Vain :

Not sure what caused that reply. Is the lowest degree corner not "flat" in the english version?
But you always have to get off the throttle or stay on the throttle and tip the brakes to get some weight to the front so the car turns in. At least on snow and some gravel-sections.

Vain

tarmac, gravel, he says flat, i cut my speed in half and i crash, he says "CAUTION" and i **** my self!

I have to check my pacenote settings, but I very rarely had problems with the notes.

Possible reasons:
- I drive too carefully and slowly
- 3D notes, distance and stacking turned off and call-out distance pretty much default. Drive by ears!
- I'm just too damn good! (Ok even I didn't believe that )

I remember couple of bends during the whole rally season when the note came too late causing me to lose a lot of time or wreck my car, so I disagree with the notes being terrible.

Finished 6th in the season (difficulty champion and realistic damage), damn you Mineshaft jump, damn you!

Lol.

@Vain: We have the same gear use strategy

/me just needs more practice

If you find yourself in a situation that you're going wide, braking will not help usually - you'll just understeer right into the Oak Tree of Death. Drop down one gear and hit the gas HARD. If you have the right tyres, the 300 HPs going into four driving wheels will move a lot of dirt and your chances of avoiding the vertical 2by4 increases exponentially.

Anyone tried their DFP in full rotation mode..........
DAMM that is hard!!!

i use 540 degrees with my dfp . i use the paddles to shift and have the stick as a clutch. the RL handbrake for most rally cars is almost an on-off switch anyways.

i bet full rotation with the g25 will not be anywhere near as hard as it is with the dfp

The Evo VI was released a few days ago. its quite alot of fun to drive. maybe its just because its makinen's car that i enjoy it so much. People that like the way the subaru 2000wrc handles will probably enjoy it's nemesis as well
http://www.kazhol.superhost.pl/kazhol/index1.htm

Haven't actually tried this, but so that I know when I get RBR reinstalled (after my HDD died). How do I (can I) watch other ppls replays? Is it just a matter of putting them in my replays folder or do I have to create a profile in their name or some other tinkering?

Asking because I'd really appreciate if someone would lend me a replay from Japan's later stages, France or Australia.

yeah as long as you have the same car, all you have to do is put it in the proper folder. you can probably find a few wr replays on bhmotorsports.

Quote from NotAnIllusion :

Haven't actually tried this, but so that I know when I get RBR reinstalled (after my HDD died). How do I (can I) watch other ppls replays? Is it just a matter of putting them in my replays folder or do I have to create a profile in their name or some other tinkering?

Asking because I'd really appreciate if someone would lend me a replay from Japan's later stages, France or Australia.

Quote from MataGyula :

Thx 4 the help guys, iam going to drift through those 180°'s

EDIT : I found this site :P It will keep me busy for a long time

There is a link with WR Replays and WR settings

Ah yeah, didn't read the entire topic. Thanks!

Lol, haha 1:50 in Fraizer Wells. Thought my 1:58.78 was fast illepall

Just finished a British Rally. 4 times rain, two times mist/dew.
Is it really that rainy over there? I can't get below the record-times in some stages when it raining (Falstone really suffers there...).
Actually rain is better than dew for some reason.

Quote :

If you find yourself in a situation that you're going wide, braking will not help usually

Left foot braking helps in such situation. Go off the throttle, simultaneously tap the brake and when all weight is on the front (which should allow you to turn in momentarily) stab the throttle and the rear comes around and helps you to get yourself back into the corner. That's why the left foot should always stay directly beside the brake-pedal, even if you're a right foot braker.
If you notice your bad situation too late and are already off the throttle, use the handbrake to get the rear around and stab the throttle afterwards to pull yourself back into the corner.

Vain

Quote from Vain :

Left foot braking helps in such situation. Go off the throttle, simultaneously tap the brake and when all weight is on the front (which should allow you to turn in momentarily) stab the throttle and the rear comes around and helps you to get yourself back into the corner. That's why the left foot should always stay directly beside the brake-pedal, even if you're a right foot braker.
If you notice your bad situation too late and are already off the throttle, use the handbrake to get the rear around and stab the throttle afterwards to pull yourself back into the corner.

I don't know man, I left foot brake exclusively in RBR, same as GTRs and open-wheelers in LFS, but with RBR I've always found braking action to induce a lot of understeer (which is correct, don't get me wrong). The rear will come around but your vector stays the same and you're headed for the tree. Throttle and power to the gripping tyres keeps the rally cars on the road.

Though I suck anyway and naturally we visualize the situation differently. And use different sets. And drive differently. And you love Coca-Cola while I drink Pepsi.

We both try to pull our cars into the corner by turning the rear end around and using throttle to get the necessary push into the corner.
You can induce the necessary oversteer with throttle alone, you can induce oversteer by flipping the weight to the front using the brake and then applying a bit of gas and you can cause oversteer by pulling the handbrake. No matter how exactly you do it, the aim is to decrease grip on the rear to get maximum grip on the front and to use the throttle to push you into the corner.

Vain

Do any of you use any camera mods? I find it's much easier to drive with a modded in-car view..?

Quote from thisnameistaken :

Is there any way to tell him that a "fast" corner should be called as a "medium" corner when his driver is a bit rubbish?

RBRdll utility includes an ingame pacenote editor. You can practically make your own notes or just edit the originals: http://www.kegetys.net/rbr/?p=rbrdll

Though, still the fastest way is to simply learn the stages inside-out. I've never edited notes, would be too time consuming even that editor is really easy to use. The best stages like Chirdonhead, Shepherds Shield or Bisanne you will probably remember to the last centimetre pretty soon but some other stages, mostly Japan and Finland have just too many similar sections, feels like they've just done some "copy-paste" while making the stages. That's why I think the weird pacenotes are just half of the problem.

Quote from Jakg :

got the greatest massage the other day in Aus, "Brakes Gone", and surprisingly it didn't slow me down to much, as i barely braked once i got the hang of sliding about, although atm i drive with auto (i use manual in LFS, but i just need to much concentration with RBR), so when i brake it puts me in reverse!

Automatic gears? Forget it and use manual immediately...

Also put every else help to off too. Even clutch help. In real life WRC cars doesn't need clutch while shifting (only when putting to reverse?) and it's just cooler to use the clutch manually in the start.

Quote from NotAnIllusion :

Do any of you use any camera mods? I find it's much easier to drive with a modded in-car view..?

Of course it's, the default camera views really suck. Incar view is more like windscreen view than a cockpit view. I had to play RBR from the bumper cam view before camera view tweaking was introduced.

I use Camera Hack v3.0: http://toca.game-editing.net/dl?f=rbrcamhack3.0.zip