I personally find that a little strange. Perhaps it is because I never had my FF "Cranked up", but rather set to a semi-comfortable level (I've been tweaking it, but using the old DFP settings as a base guideline to start) - but mine has never started to "heat up" to the point where my Force Feedback has worn out. And I've used it in 6 hour long endurance races. No, I wasn't driving the whole six hours, but I was doing warm-up practice laps offline before hand for two hours, then I drove my three, so it was at least five. And everything was normal.
If it continues, you might want to call Tech support and ask them. Personally, if mine started to do that, I'd be afraid of it breaking on me
If it continues, you might want to call Tech support and ask them. Personally, if mine started to do that, I'd be afraid of it breaking on me
Simply put, -WOW-. Did you take that truck/trailer model from something, or do it yourself?
1. Do you have need for office furniture?
(Yes) (No)
2. Do you own any office furniture
(Yes) (No)
3. Do you prefer furniture that looks modern or traditional?
(Modern) (Traditional)
4. Do you prefer modern tubular steel furniture to traditional wooden furniture?
(Modern) (Traditional) (Dont know)
5. How much would you realistically spend on an office desk?
(£0-20) (£20-30) (£30-40) (£40 +)
6. What office environment would you be buying for?
(Business office) (Home office) (Personal home use)
7. Do you use a pc at your desk?
(Yes) (No)
8. Is it a desktop or a tower?
(Desktop) (Tower)
9. What size desk would you buy?
(a) Wide
(2 foot) (3 foot) (4 foot) (5 foot +)
(b) Depth
(2 foot) (3 foot) (4 foot +)
10. Do you have a need for extra storage (draws / shelves)
(Draws) (Shelves) (Both) (None)
11. Anymore needs for an office desk?
For the home desk, obviously I need to be able to clamp a wheel comfortably on it. Also, for study purposes, having an L-shaped or U-shaped desk is preferable, so I can have as many open sources (textbooks, notes, ect) as possible at once.
For the work desk, as I spend most of my time on the PC, it needs a CPU storage space on it, off the ground (I live in florida, and hurricane flood damage is bbbaaaddd for PC!), preferably with a cabinet door on the front (so I can open it to access my PC's drives), and wholely open in the back (not just a little hole. For temperature reasons, and for stringing wires). Desk height is important, because I'm a bit on the short side (5' 6.5", or 1.6891 meters), and I want the keyboard at a comfortable level (perhaps with a pullout keyboard thing, but that comprimises my wheel-at-work possibilities. I wouldn't mind it, because if it bugs me I'd removed/not install it...), but not my feet dangling from raising my chair so high I can reach said comfortable level.
(Yes) (No)
2. Do you own any office furniture
(Yes) (No)
3. Do you prefer furniture that looks modern or traditional?
(Modern) (Traditional)
4. Do you prefer modern tubular steel furniture to traditional wooden furniture?
(Modern) (Traditional) (Dont know)
5. How much would you realistically spend on an office desk?
(£0-20) (£20-30) (£30-40) (£40 +)
6. What office environment would you be buying for?
(Business office) (Home office) (Personal home use)
7. Do you use a pc at your desk?
(Yes) (No)
8. Is it a desktop or a tower?
(Desktop) (Tower)
9. What size desk would you buy?
(a) Wide
(2 foot) (3 foot) (4 foot) (5 foot +)
(b) Depth
(2 foot) (3 foot) (4 foot +)
10. Do you have a need for extra storage (draws / shelves)
(Draws) (Shelves) (Both) (None)
11. Anymore needs for an office desk?
For the home desk, obviously I need to be able to clamp a wheel comfortably on it. Also, for study purposes, having an L-shaped or U-shaped desk is preferable, so I can have as many open sources (textbooks, notes, ect) as possible at once.
For the work desk, as I spend most of my time on the PC, it needs a CPU storage space on it, off the ground (I live in florida, and hurricane flood damage is bbbaaaddd for PC!), preferably with a cabinet door on the front (so I can open it to access my PC's drives), and wholely open in the back (not just a little hole. For temperature reasons, and for stringing wires). Desk height is important, because I'm a bit on the short side (5' 6.5", or 1.6891 meters), and I want the keyboard at a comfortable level (perhaps with a pullout keyboard thing, but that comprimises my wheel-at-work possibilities. I wouldn't mind it, because if it bugs me I'd removed/not install it...), but not my feet dangling from raising my chair so high I can reach said comfortable level.
I had the same problem! Well, it sounds the same. Anywho, my cure:
Options > Graphics > Haze Effect - OFF
My problem symptoms included:
-Process Explorer spiked to 100% during the lockup
-It happened randomly, seemingly without a pattern. When watching a replay of the race, it would lockup randomly as well, not at the same time it did in the original race.
-Time continues for the game in single player, so if I was to jab my brakes when it froze, I'd unfreeze to find myself spun out from brake lock.
-Happened in all modes of play
-NVidia GeForce FX 5500 (Same card! Might be the problem!!)
-The sound did a weird loop thing, like it was caught repeating the same sound chunk over the span of one second (this was prior to the U30 sound upgrade)
-I was running U without a patch.
I discovered the solution when I did, as it seems you have tried, changing all my graphics settings to as low as possible. I turn off haze effect included, and it cured it. I went back, put it all back on, and it happened. So I lowered one option at a time until the lockups went away, and thats how I discovered it.
Options > Graphics > Haze Effect - OFF
My problem symptoms included:
-Process Explorer spiked to 100% during the lockup
-It happened randomly, seemingly without a pattern. When watching a replay of the race, it would lockup randomly as well, not at the same time it did in the original race.
-Time continues for the game in single player, so if I was to jab my brakes when it froze, I'd unfreeze to find myself spun out from brake lock.
-Happened in all modes of play
-NVidia GeForce FX 5500 (Same card! Might be the problem!!)
-The sound did a weird loop thing, like it was caught repeating the same sound chunk over the span of one second (this was prior to the U30 sound upgrade)
-I was running U without a patch.
I discovered the solution when I did, as it seems you have tried, changing all my graphics settings to as low as possible. I turn off haze effect included, and it cured it. I went back, put it all back on, and it happened. So I lowered one option at a time until the lockups went away, and thats how I discovered it.
LOL
Well, I wasn't going to, but now that you offered.... Nice name addition by the by, heh. Don't worry, I'll leave your name on it. After all, I don't want people asking me to make them. I don't know how!
Good work again, by the way. Tinting it blue is going to be hard methinks. I might not bother.
Well, I wasn't going to, but now that you offered.... Nice name addition by the by, heh. Don't worry, I'll leave your name on it. After all, I don't want people asking me to make them. I don't know how!
Good work again, by the way. Tinting it blue is going to be hard methinks
. I might not bother.Heh. Thats kinda cool. Makes me want to steal it and tint it blue =P
Wow... Thats kinda neat.
Does anyone have an XRR laying around? I doubt it if it hasn't been posted, but...
I think its a great looking car, and I'd love to see it as a pixel car.
Does anyone have an XRR laying around? I doubt it if it hasn't been posted, but...
I think its a great looking car, and I'd love to see it as a pixel car.
Heh. True. But I'm still trying to work out issues on my own scene. Still new to max, so I'm trying to create a scene from scratch (plus the CMX importer
)... But even with your instructions, I need an XRR model to play with, and mine has... issues... (See my post on MasterSkinnerz under 3dRendering if you want to help :nod
Ew... I can't use it then. I'm still using Max7
. But yeah, the only cars I've ever skinned are the XRG and XRR, and I didn't like my XRG skin... Maybe I'll just wait for it to come out and ask anyone to do a 'Boxed XRR Render' for me .Ian, I loved that boxed XRR I hope one-day I'll be able to make something that looks that neat...
Are you going to share that scene, or only entertain requests to render skins? I might put my name down on a request list...
I hope one-day I'll be able to make something that looks that neat...Are you going to share that scene, or only entertain requests to render skins? I might put my name down on a request list...
Interesting idea, but a few points (er, I mean questions):
Isn't it blackout, not whiteout? I was under the impression that blackouts happen when the g-forces down cause the heart to be unable to pump enough blood to the brain, causing a lack of conciousness. Red-outs are when the G-Forces up are so high, the blood collects and the pressure increases until blood vessels in your eyes start bursting. I may be wrong, so I'd have to look into it. Maybe cite some sources.
Secondly, I seriously, seriously doubt a race car can produce enough G-Forces in any direction to cause blackouts or redouts (unless my whole point is invalid and whiteouts are some other thing). Is there any precident of this happening?
Thirdly, don't diffrent people have diffrent tolerances towards G-Forces and blackouts? How would you simulate something thats diffrent in every person? Take an average? Best case senerio (like I think driver weight is done)?
LOL
My G/F's mom has a Chevy Suburban. I think I'm going to ask to look in her manual
, and then show it to her 
. But yeah, I've driven it before. Trust me, the car doesn't WANT to take a turn over 20 MPH. It understeers like mad. I remember driving it through the curve of an onramp and thinking "Did they use butter for tyre tread?" because it, litterally, felt like the front wheels were just sliding along the road.I live in America, which seems to be overly paranoid about things breaking on you. So we, being a sue happy country, get told to do things to prolong engine life, mostly so manufactors can say "You didn't do what we told you!"
Example: Oil change every 3000 miles. I belive I got told, on this very forum, by quite a few knowledgeable people, that oil lasts a good deal longer than 3000 miles.
My car and my bike's user's manual (the only two vehicles I have read the user's manual for) both have an engine break in period. Run it at varying RPMs below 3,000 for the first 100 miles, and below 4,000 for the first 500. Don't keep it at a constant RPM (cruising down a highway). My dad, driving my bike to the house from the dealership (chirstmas present) gunned the throttle pretty much the whole way home.
And the bike is fine.
Although I've never heard "an engine run in fast makes a fast engine", I wouldn't doubt if it was true. Hows that work, if anyone cares to explain?
Example: Oil change every 3000 miles. I belive I got told, on this very forum, by quite a few knowledgeable people, that oil lasts a good deal longer than 3000 miles.
My car and my bike's user's manual (the only two vehicles I have read the user's manual for) both have an engine break in period. Run it at varying RPMs below 3,000 for the first 100 miles, and below 4,000 for the first 500. Don't keep it at a constant RPM (cruising down a highway). My dad, driving my bike to the house from the dealership (chirstmas present) gunned the throttle pretty much the whole way home.
And the bike is fine.
Although I've never heard "an engine run in fast makes a fast engine", I wouldn't doubt if it was true. Hows that work, if anyone cares to explain?
Yeah. I've thought about an idea similar to this before, but I always end up chucking it.
Rather than a "You are dead" message, I always invisioned the screen just fading to red or black.
The major issues I've always had with it, are as follows:
Pitting and unpitting should fix it, but then it becomes just sort of silly. After all, people pit and unpit for less serious things all the time. It wouldn't become too much of a deterant.
Until the damage model is improved on, its got some serious flaws. The idea behind the roll cage is to provent the cockpit from crushing the driver, however the rollcage bends in the current damage model. This allows 'helmet clipping', would would result in instant 'driver damage'.
Game rating might take a hit. I don't know how that works, but I suspect any video game which attempts to simulate the effect of human injury might recieve a less than E rating. One of the great appeals of a racing simulator is: Its non-violent (in concept). You're compeating, not trying to break into a building to shoot up a dozen badguys. It breeds sportsmanship, not violent tendencies. If you could 'hurt' the other drivers by ramming them... well, lets just say I've seen games get more restrive ratings for less.
Also, when the damage model DOES get improved, what happens when a projectile punctures the windshield on the driver's side? Ugly.
My vote?
-1
Rather than a "You are dead" message, I always invisioned the screen just fading to red or black.
The major issues I've always had with it, are as follows:
Pitting and unpitting should fix it, but then it becomes just sort of silly. After all, people pit and unpit for less serious things all the time. It wouldn't become too much of a deterant.
Until the damage model is improved on, its got some serious flaws. The idea behind the roll cage is to provent the cockpit from crushing the driver, however the rollcage bends in the current damage model. This allows 'helmet clipping', would would result in instant 'driver damage'.
Game rating might take a hit. I don't know how that works, but I suspect any video game which attempts to simulate the effect of human injury might recieve a less than E rating. One of the great appeals of a racing simulator is: Its non-violent (in concept). You're compeating, not trying to break into a building to shoot up a dozen badguys. It breeds sportsmanship, not violent tendencies. If you could 'hurt' the other drivers by ramming them... well, lets just say I've seen games get more restrive ratings for less.
Also, when the damage model DOES get improved, what happens when a projectile punctures the windshield on the driver's side? Ugly.
My vote?
-1
See, real race teams take a car from race to race, but they usually fix/replace anything wrong with it. I remember hearing a commentator in one series mention how a car got smashed up during a qualification incident, and it was fixed by the race day. Granted, the mechanics probably performed a miracle.
If an engine breaks, the mechanics fix it. If the tyres wear out, they get replaced. Its the same car, in spirit, but from the start to the end of a series, its possible most every part has been replaced at some point or another, depending on how rough the series is (I mean how likley the drivers are to hit each other).
Plus:
If an engine needs a break in period, and you were a race team, wouldn't you slap the sucker on some sort of gizmo that automatically runs it through various RPMs for a certain number of simulated miles, so when you drop it in the car, its not a 'new' engine?
It all just seems really off to me.
If an engine breaks, the mechanics fix it. If the tyres wear out, they get replaced. Its the same car, in spirit, but from the start to the end of a series, its possible most every part has been replaced at some point or another, depending on how rough the series is (I mean how likley the drivers are to hit each other).
Plus:
If an engine needs a break in period, and you were a race team, wouldn't you slap the sucker on some sort of gizmo that automatically runs it through various RPMs for a certain number of simulated miles, so when you drop it in the car, its not a 'new' engine?
It all just seems really off to me.
Its an interesting idea. Fits a rather specialized niche, but it would be kinda neat. Essentually just make league races part of the game, rather than making the game do the league races. Although useless for pickup games, and leagues can already do much of this (and a little more) with a little effort...
I think the major benifits would be the tyres (being limited to a number other than unlimited sets, either over a season or for a particular round. Especially once the tyre physics are completed), and things of that nature that are really just too much of a pain to moniter as currently is.
However, if I may make a minor suggestive improvement...
Remove the stock setup option. As far as I know, no racing series forces its racing teams to use cars with specific settings. Its just way to hard to enforce in real life, and I see no real bonus for using it in LFS.
For the no tyre change from qual to race start... What would the drop in tyre tempature be like? I know if I let my car sit on R2s for a little too long, such as say, the cars are lining up in their appropraite spots to race and just sitting there, they will turn BLACK. Seriously, its kinda funny to watch me drive on 25 degree celcius tyres, but my point is: Would there be a scripted drop in tempatures, so only wear is carried over?
Thirdly, for endurance type races... An option to allow a team to net some points for completing a certain percentage of race may be interesting. Such as, say, in a 24 hour race, if the team completes 85% of it and has to DNF because of mechanical failure, they still have a chance to net some points for simply completing enough of it.
Anywho, enough of my talking...
I think the major benifits would be the tyres (being limited to a number other than unlimited sets, either over a season or for a particular round. Especially once the tyre physics are completed), and things of that nature that are really just too much of a pain to moniter as currently is.
However, if I may make a minor suggestive improvement...
Remove the stock setup option. As far as I know, no racing series forces its racing teams to use cars with specific settings. Its just way to hard to enforce in real life, and I see no real bonus for using it in LFS.
For the no tyre change from qual to race start... What would the drop in tyre tempature be like? I know if I let my car sit on R2s for a little too long, such as say, the cars are lining up in their appropraite spots to race and just sitting there, they will turn BLACK. Seriously, its kinda funny to watch me drive on 25 degree celcius tyres, but my point is: Would there be a scripted drop in tempatures, so only wear is carried over?
Thirdly, for endurance type races... An option to allow a team to net some points for completing a certain percentage of race may be interesting. Such as, say, in a 24 hour race, if the team completes 85% of it and has to DNF because of mechanical failure, they still have a chance to net some points for simply completing enough of it.
Anywho, enough of my talking...
If your not against a little constructive critism in your VB6 reader...
It might be a good idea to bring camber down (or tyre pressure up) so they're next to each other, then label the four tyres. I can tell that the first is Rear Left, then Rear Right, ect..
Also, I'm pretty sure LFS saves if its Symentrical or Asymentrical somewhere, becasue even if I just click the asymentrical and leave all the settings, it still REMEMBERS that I clicked it. But I don't see a value for it anywhere. Depending on the goal of your project, that may nor may not matter. If its just to read setups, its not important. Also if its to write setup files, leaving it always asymentrical won't hurt either. But I'm not sure if you're reading a file thats symetrical, and you write it with diffrent values for the tyres, what sort of mayhem that will cause....
It might be a good idea to bring camber down (or tyre pressure up) so they're next to each other, then label the four tyres. I can tell that the first is Rear Left, then Rear Right, ect..
Also, I'm pretty sure LFS saves if its Symentrical or Asymentrical somewhere, becasue even if I just click the asymentrical and leave all the settings, it still REMEMBERS that I clicked it. But I don't see a value for it anywhere. Depending on the goal of your project, that may nor may not matter. If its just to read setups, its not important. Also if its to write setup files, leaving it always asymentrical won't hurt either. But I'm not sure if you're reading a file thats symetrical, and you write it with diffrent values for the tyres, what sort of mayhem that will cause....
20 as of yesterday =)
And I liked the happy birthday LFS sent me ^.^ I almost printed it out and posted it on my wall, until I realized now that my G25 is here, I don't ever look at my wall anymore... Just my moniter, and my whiteboard (which has my setup information on it... Er... I think I need help :shy
And I liked the happy birthday LFS sent me ^.^ I almost printed it out and posted it on my wall, until I realized now that my G25 is here, I don't ever look at my wall anymore... Just my moniter, and my whiteboard (which has my setup information on it... Er... I think I need help :shy
I don't have track IR. I just maxed the setting to 2 degrees, went from 20 mph to a dead stop, and watched my 'vision' dip... and bounce back up, just like my head was bobbing. It looks like it works to me... I'm using U20, incase that matters at all.
Sadly, I have to give the buggers candy. One year something came up, and I had to leave for an hour. Came home, and my other car had eggs on it... Lucky for me, it wasn't sitting there for longer than an hour, so it didn't eat the paint.
I like my house, and my car, and I'd rather buy some candy (and eat the left overs!) than clean up a mess some disgruntled teenager with parents who neglected to teach them manners left because I didn't aid in the destruction of their teeth.
I like my house, and my car, and I'd rather buy some candy (and eat the left overs!) than clean up a mess some disgruntled teenager with parents who neglected to teach them manners left because I didn't aid in the destruction of their teeth.
Under view, I have an option that says "1g heal Tilt" set to "1 degree".
I would THINK that this means if the car is pulling, say, 1G under braking, then my vision will tilt down 1 degree. I'm pretty sure it does, although I haven't actually messured it.
I think the reason you don't notice it is TrackIR. The two probably aren't compatable.
Then again, I've been known to be wrong.
I would THINK that this means if the car is pulling, say, 1G under braking, then my vision will tilt down 1 degree. I'm pretty sure it does, although I haven't actually messured it.
I think the reason you don't notice it is TrackIR. The two probably aren't compatable.
Then again, I've been known to be wrong.
I wasn't aware they used it in real life. Its a simulator, and it has its limitations. We have to realize that not every driver has been taught the same racing ediqutee (if at all). I'm i'm going down a straight, and I start pulling left and turn on my right blinker, it should be obvious which way I want you to go. My blinker means, for me, "I know you're there, go that way so we won't have a problem." I can't jerk out of my current line, lest I risk losing control (or speed).
In real life, you can look at hand signals, or you assume they know you're there. Its slightly harder to achieve spacial awareness in a Sim (something I'm good at, and it makes me kind of proud), so you have to be careful...
Obviously, they don't always know you're there in real life, which is why accidents happen. But the blinker was a working solution to a problem which has a unqiue solution in real life, one we can't immitate. The hands.
On my old Momo, I had the bottom two buttons bound to left/right blinker, and the right middle bound to cancel blinker. Thats how I told people which side to pass on. I do this because -I- block messages when racing, mostly because they block the minimap and I like to know if the car behind me is a lap up or fighting for position.
However, with my G25 (May my Momo RIP), I don't have my blinkers bound yet (because my wheel buttons are look L/R). I might bind them to the gear shifter when I get more used to it, but for now I just hope the faster cars are good enough to take turns two wide and/or pass intelligently.
Sounds complicated for shift-Hing. Never sure which gesture you're on...
How about scripting it? /wave, /finger, /raisehand, ect, so all you have to do is bind an F-key to it (and then you can assign a wheel button to the F-key). I'm not sure all the common gestures used in open-wheeled racing (I saw a video once with an in cockpit camera for a car that looked like the LX series. The purpose (of posting it on the forums) was to show the diffrent wind volume effects in and out of draft, but the drivers as the guy came up behind them kept throwing their arms up. At first, I thought they were trying to tell him to back off their bumper (he was drafting really close), but then I realized it might be a "pass on left/right" signal of some sort...), but I think they should work for all types of cars. Just some wouldn't get noticed quite so much (I'm never really bothered to look in the cockpits of XRRs as I drive past them/they drive past me). But for the LX open configs, for example, it would indeed be nice.
However:
How in the world will this work with the wheel animation without rescripting the whole thing? And how do you decide WHICH side you give the finger to? Back? Left? Right? Front?
How about scripting it? /wave, /finger, /raisehand, ect, so all you have to do is bind an F-key to it (and then you can assign a wheel button to the F-key). I'm not sure all the common gestures used in open-wheeled racing (I saw a video once with an in cockpit camera for a car that looked like the LX series. The purpose (of posting it on the forums) was to show the diffrent wind volume effects in and out of draft, but the drivers as the guy came up behind them kept throwing their arms up. At first, I thought they were trying to tell him to back off their bumper (he was drafting really close), but then I realized it might be a "pass on left/right" signal of some sort...), but I think they should work for all types of cars. Just some wouldn't get noticed quite so much (I'm never really bothered to look in the cockpits of XRRs as I drive past them/they drive past me). But for the LX open configs, for example, it would indeed be nice.
However:
How in the world will this work with the wheel animation without rescripting the whole thing? And how do you decide WHICH side you give the finger to? Back? Left? Right? Front?
Wow, nice detail on the tyres. Out of curiosity, do you know what all the chalk (or whatever they write with) markings mean on race tyres? I've an aquantience who is thinking about making new textures for the tyres, and wanted references to use.
Understandable. Not all routers are the same. I was just mentioning, incase anyone tried it, that they may run into that wall, so be prepared to find a secondary solution.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG