guys I feel sorry to interrupt the thread but... this video is old, (old but gold), the video was called "welcome to LFS S2", I found the original post:


https://www.lfs.net/forum/thread/38320-New-Video-Clip-Intro%3A-Welcome-to-LFS-2

The song used was "the pretender - foo fighters"

but the youtube channel dissappeared, and megaupload we know what happened with megaupload.

my question is, does anybody know where I can get this video? that video inspired me so many times, to the point that I made a promise to myself years ago because I wanted to learn so many tricks in that video and I think my body is ready to fulfill my promise.

I hope you know what video I am talking about since I consider it the BEST VIDEO OF LFS EVERRR.

I remember downloading the video but since my HDD was damaged, and I recovered most of the data, I couldnt find that video.

By the way I just could found 1 reupload from UKONEVA:

Last edited by jnr89, Tue, 5 May 2015 00:12.

Quote from Eclipsed :

Here you go: http://www.gamershell.com/search/?q=live+for+speed

whoaaaaaaa!!! thanks!!! thanks a lot man!! you made my week!!!

Quote from RicardoB10 :

Live For Speed S1E Demo

Good old times

lol, I started back in 2006, i guess you were racing much earlier than me lol.

Quote from Sebastian123414 :

Can you upload my skin on www.lfsworld.net called XFG_233.dds??
link http://chomikuj.pl/omar.ram/Dokumenty

hey, upload the skin like an attached file here,I dont mind to upload it for you, I guess I have some lfs credits to do it.

Quote from Flotch :

Use an older version of LFS (multiple folders of LFS is a good way)

I checked the older versions links to download (from this website off course) and there are not Z28 links, I saw a way olders versions of LFS...

Am I the only one with this worry?? I mean, when I knew the Westhill track was about to get a new version, i said to me: "nice, they will add a new version and they will let the older one"

but I was damn wrong


I dont know where to get a Z28 version, I fear that I will have to go to some "blackmarket"places on the net to find that lol...

Quote from Pablo Donoso :

Debut Screen Capture by NCH software. Trust me, it's the best one out of fraps, camtasia, or any other recording program. (^_^)

I will give a try, never heard of this one before, thanks for the info!!

Quote from nikopdr :

You could try recording at half-speed and 30fps, and limiting it to 30 in game, too. That way you can speed it up using Sony Vegas, or any preferred video editing software, or even VirtualDub.

I would think the video outputted by Fraps is in stable 60fps, so even though your framerate goes higher than that, any "speed-ups" won't occur (correct me if i'm wrong on this one, as i'm very unsure about the last statement). The filesizes of the videos recorded with fraps is very large, yeah, but keep in mind Fraps outputs only uncompressed .avi files, and yeah, they're very large if you enable full-screen recording and the resolution is 1920x1080.

the most weird thing is, in-game i can see the frame rates over 150-200+++ but even like that, the video output is with a lot less frame rates, the highest i get was 80-ish, the average is good since is over 60fps according to MEDIAINFO (I use that software to check codec infoc and fps and more details)

Quote from Gutholz :

Use virtualdub or something to see if the framerate really is different. I found the windows explorer sometimes shows strange numbers.

For test try to record in very small resolution: If it FPS now stay at 60 fps then you were hitting limits of your computer. If frames still drop then it is (maybe) something else.
I think eventually the HDD becomes a limiting factor..SSD maybe better.

I agree with you totally, years ago I refuse the idea of getting a SSD because the price and low storage, but since I upgrade to this rig, I had to get a SSD because the bottleneck in the whole computer was just in the HDD, right now I have two HDD (2tb each one) and 1 SSD (120gb), the ssd is for the OS, and the HDD's are for video editing/recording/everythinelse.

I just found out that because the difference in speed in the HHD compared with the SSD, I can swear that using a SSD for saving recordings will improve the video output process (faster, probably bigger files and better FPS rate)

Since SSDs prices are dropping and the storage available is getting bigger, I will try to get another SSD to use it for video work for sure.



thanks for your feedback! If someone has tested SSD recording with LFS, giving some feedback would be awesome!

I will show you this video I made, its supposed to be 60fps, but something inside me tells me that in some parts, the FPS rate drops below 60fps (when the camera is around the cars, cockpit-view didnt drop any frame at all):



pd: sorry for my bad english

greetings, how can I play some older replays from westhill, I was trying several hours to figure out the problem ultil i noticed that the "corrupted"replay files were only from westhill (old layout z28)..

Quote from delis :

It's not that hard - take any real life picture with/without car in it, make picture with LFS car as similar and as accurately as possible to put it in the chosen image, cut out the LFS's car, paste onto the real life picture, edit lightning, etc. and voila.

ooops sorry, i wasnt aware of my ignorance, but thanks for the info and sorry for interrupt the thread

great pictures, but I have a question, I know some basic image edition knowledge, but I dont know how to make or how is done certain type of edited LFS images.

For example I saw a couple in this page, the BMW with the wet road and its reflection, and the FXO in the middle of the street....but..

There is this style of edition that I am not sure if it is done using a 3D rendering software or mixing real pictures with images from a 3d rendering app.

I will show you a few examples, I feel a little bit mediocre because I cant find how to do this:










if this thead is not the right place to ask this question please tell me where?


pd: sorry for my bad english.

I was trying to find another source than the LFS manual, since we can use so many screen recorders to capture footage from LFS (the classic fraps, bandicam, dxtory, etc)

in my case, I used to record with fraps years ago, but I gave a try to bandicam and dxtory. the problem with dxtory is that I cant manage the output files to work (black/green screen, sound is good but no video at all, i think it has to do something with the codecs)


I try bandicam, is excellent but just one thing I couldnt fix: I set it to record at 60fps, and it seems to record at 60fps with no lag (the game is steady at 60fps) but the output file drops the frames to 45-55 fps, I couldnt find anything related to this behavior.

The classic fraps, is good, but the same problem: gigantic files, but with some details:
I set it with a fps limit of 60 fps, but while recording i get some drops (just a couple) but the fps rate went from 60 to 120 fps in some segments (not full screen, but Vsync activated, in full screen 1920x1080 the vsyncs limits the fps to 60, in window mode even with vsycn on, the FPS can go over 100.)


Since it has been years from my last time editing LFS videos, I dont know if this kind of detail is normal, maybe i ignored it years ago, maybe i discovered it now just because i am more experienced with video editing concepts.


So, it is normal to get variable frame rate when recording LFS from those recorders?
I did my test using the SHIFT+U camera mode, with shots around the car, doing a 360 degrees to test the smoothness.

I attached some screenshots if you want to see my point.

I hope to see some of your suggestion, or your workflow to edit videos from LFS.

just for the record my system specs:

CPU- i7 4770k (NO OC)
GPU- R9280x asus matrix platinum ROG
RAM- 16GB

PD: sorry for my bad english.

I dont know what happens but this seems to fix itself after a restart lol

Greetings, I just recovered some old replays files, and when I try to play them on the newest version of LFS, I get some...bugs?

This seems to be some texture related problem, maybe i need to download an older version of LFS to play this replay without any bugs?

what do you think???

I attached an image.

pd: Sorry for my bad english

Quote from Whiskey :

Heel and toe must be performed extremly well to be better than normal downshifting.

In FWD cars it is not so important, because it is easier to avoid blocking the front tires.
In a powerful RWD car, you usually want to tap the throttle when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear because you can brake quite harder if you avoid the rear lock.

Quote from Whiskey :

.... because this need me wearing shows while driving and I prefer going barefoot on my socks haha

I am still working hard on my manual shifting skills because I notice that when I use sequential or paddle shifting, im way better (but i really want to master the H shifter.

Personally I love to use socks because I dont like the idea of mixing my foot's smell with the pedals, even with hands, i use gloves too lol.

Quote from bbman :

Hi there, always good to hear people recovering from illness, good on ya!

thanks my friend !

Quote from bbman :

Not noticing a difference can have one of two reasons: either you're doing it really well out of the box, or the driven tires are not on the limit of traction while you're braking.

I need to check this, in the telemetry, is there a way to see the maximum grip available just before losing grip??

Quote from bbman :

Changing down a gear adds a sudden jolt of braking force on the driven tires through the driveline due to the engine revving way slower than it would at that speed in the lower gear. This jolt can be alleviated either through slipping the clutch (which obviously puts much strain on it, something you may not want), or revving the engine up so the difference between engine revs and driveline revs is less.

The most important time to get heel toe-shifting right is in a RWD car with enough braking force on the rear tires that the jolt would lock the rears, sending you into a spin. Otherwise, the tires will soak up the force or, in the case of a FWD, the car will just understeer (not advisable either for making the corner or flatspotting, but not as bad).

this is tricky for me because, in real life i have to drive a pick-up truck, is an automatic, but you have to trust me when i have to take a downhill and i need to use engine braking to help the brakes, the rear tyres locks, i managed to practice to reduce the tyres locking (with a somehow heel and toe) because this behavior is typical, at least in my case:

a) braking on downhills, using the brake pedal and engine braking

b) braking with the pedal and engine braking on wet roads (downhill or flat roads), basically the same if there is sand on the road, or gravel or any kind of conditions that make the road slippery


i just saw this video about the "perfect score" for a drift (drift muscle series), and this guy just did a crazy pedals work, i can see him clutching without shifting (and i just ask myself why did he do that?, i guess he pulled the e-brak) and even heel and toe without downshift, it blew my mind, check him out:



Thanks for your feedback.
pd: sorry for my bad english, it seems i have a long way to master the H shifter lol.

Greetings!!! I am so excited to be back around, after sometime, I had to face some health problems and I wanted to be back early. the thing is, I managed to do the transition from using a gamepad (xbox 360 controller) to a driving force gt racing wheel, and recently I could get a logitech G25 (dont get me wrong, i couldnt use the DFGT because a problem with my shoulders, so i barely used it)

the thing is, with the clutch pedal, I wanted to race the most realistic way I could, using the H shifter and without autoclutch, (note please I never had a manual car in my life, just fewer times driving friend's cars just to feel it).

and at the begginning i had a lot of fun stalling the car and spining out (i never saw it coming, i was pretty good with the gamepad but i am so slow using the wheel with the shifter lol)...so after many laps of granny shifting, not double clutching as i should and almost blewing the engines, i started to get the hang of it, my miss-shift are less now but....

what about downshifting??
I know heel and toe to rev match while downshifting helps to improve the car's weight balance under heavy braking (kinda avoid to end spininng, right?) but i cant see the effect on lfs, I use FWD, and RWD, the XRT, XRG, XFG, maybe i need more practice to notice this better but I cant see the benefits of heel and toe while downshifting, maybe im downshifting too late to notice anything???


It would be nice if somebody could explain me a little bit more about this, imo, i think, im downshifting too "soft"to notice the real difference between using or not using the heel and toe.


pd: sorry for my bad english

Quote from bmwe30m3 :

You only profit from 144Hz if your pc manages to run the game atleast 144Hz.

thats the point!! thanks a lot.

hello, I have been reading several post about monitors and I just ended more confused than before lol.

I am interested to know if anyone around here have experienced a difference between 60hz and 144hz using LFS?

I mean, some people told me that higher frequency (HZ) means less lag.

I read something called "g-sync", is totally new for me, heck, the new forum style is new for me, I feel like an old obsolete user now, I miss the older version lol.

I am pretty confused. My current monitor is a dell, it says 1920x1080 @ 60HZ. my GPU is the R9 280x platinum, but I am still building the rig, I could make a test on LFS with all settings at max, with 20 cars on kyoto ring and the FPS rate didnt touch below the 65 FPS.
with V-Sync ON the FPS stays firm at 60fps, sometimes they jump to 61-62 FPS.

My main interest is in a smooth racing and for video editing, I think I like more the V-SYNC on, on 60 fps, racing with 100 fps is good and awesome but the tearing is distracting.


So I am a bit confused, should I stay calm with 60fps v-sync on with my 60hz monitor? or newers GPU in the future with this "g-sync" could be useless with monitors without that feature?

anyone can tell me or show me the difference of racing with 144 hz vs 60 hz?

lately I update my pc but just to find out I am already "outdated" or something with all this new stuff to me.


sorry for my bad english.

Quote from sinbad :

if I were in their position I would be looking at a lot of other things I could charge you for besides two front tyres. You got off light.

they did, they were like searching for crashes or impacts. Come on, this is ridiculous, I didnt crash the car, I just pushed it to the limit.

what is "A bad use of the car"? if you ask me, a bad use of the car is driving it improperly,overspeeding,driving careless,and if you ask me, accidents are not "accidents", accidents are crashes that happens because one or more people did something wrong (overspeeding,not paying attention,etc).
putting in that way, every crash or accident I saw while working on the rental, was the driver's fault and the insurance they paid shouldnt have worked.

is nothing compared to taking a car to the race track but people usually overspeed the cars, they break the cars (undertray,tyres,etc) and on the public road...

I knew the risks, I knew the consecuences, but hey, I am a guy with a huge desire to race... before renting that car, I used my pick-up truck to go around the track, and even I could cut some gap in cars during some sequences of curves, they just erased me in the mirrors in every straightway.
I just wanted to jump into the track and lap it for myself, since nobody wanted to give me a ride as a copilot.

I will look forward to buying a car, probably something cheap and fun to drive, like a EG6 Civic or if I have the chance, a subaru legacy GT, but for now I couldnt do anything.

forgive me but I am a very aware driver, I drive a lot daily, I have no incidents, I See a lot of crazy stuff too. nothing is a valid reason to do what I did but **** it, YOLO, I did it and even if I paid more for the tyres than what I paid for the rental (rental:$100 us$, tyres: $200 us$), I had such a great time and fun.

I wish to go to the track everyday of my life. sorry if I sound reckless but, I am a very aware driver, and I know that is not enough to prevent a crash(sometimes is not even your fault).

I understand you guys, I used to work on a car rental company a while ago.

In fact, they wanted me to pay for the tyres as new, the two front tyres, so I did to avoid problems. but they ripped me off lol.

their reason was "I did a very bad use of the car", crap, if they let me do it, that would be a huge promotion for them,since I finished 4th in a 10 car race(6 laps), with mustangs, some bmw's, eg6 civic, a trams am.

thanks for the suggestions, is hard to wait until I could buy a car or something else. is frustrating....

Ok guys I dont know how to explain this because maybe you wont understand, but in short:

I dont have a big budget.

There is a track day event in my country, I really want to go, but I dont have a car (I have a pick-up truck, is my working horse). so...

the last track day I rented a car, and I get into the track. It was a lot of fun, I had some action.


here is the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXdJKn0b42g

Renting a car is my cheap fix to enjoy a track day, and since in my country there is so many noobs driving cars with good performance, sometimes I just give them a hard time for my pleasure.


The problem is....

When I took back the car to the rental, they just discovered that I was racing, mostly because the tyres. I dont know the exact term to describe them but... the edges of the tyres were like teared? but they werent that bad, I mean, I could swear that I had a lot of rubber from the track in the tyres. I have pictures, check the attachments.

basically the tyres were like this: (note, I took this pictures from a bike website but the tyres look very similar to my problem)



I was expecting some tyre wear but not this way (since I really did a lot of laps, my local track is not that hard, mostly high speed curves, and one with mid-to low speed, that was the curve I feel it like the hardest on tyres)

A friend of mine told me that I could fixed that easily, doing a sort of "cleaning" to the tyre, I am not sure. it looked like I could take it away with something.

I was trying to buy some used tyres from the racing cars here but the rims size and wide dont match with the rentals available.

Purchasing a set of rims is very expensive for me just to use them one day. Nobody wanted to lend me their rims (I offered to pay for it).

The next sunday is the track day, I am begging to see some rain because in rain I wont damage the tyres.

I was wondering if there is really a quick fix to this, I was expecting the tyres to wear different.
I dont pretend to restore the tyres to their original condition, but getting them a nicer look, a more natural look of tyre wear.
pd: sorry for my bad english.

Last edited by jnr89, Thu, 3 Jul 2014 11:00.

greetings, lfs racers, I dont know where to post this question,an existential question of many I have in my mind...

I was just running in circles in the skidpad, testing some cars, with a DFGT. I was trying to get the countersteering work in a proper way, preventing the spin out and figuring out how to avoid all the spins and getting out with a sweet drift.

So after a while fighting with the steering wheel and trying to figure everything out, I just wanted to know if it is possible to drift in the skid pad without changing lines with the defaults setups (because those are what Im using)

I know there are many of drift setups or stunt setups but I wanted to know if it is possible for a very experienced and skilled lfs racer to drift the skid pad in a desire line without getting out of it, with any car?

I gave a try, I failed for sure, but sometimes I keep a drift for a while.
I dont know if is just me but the RAC car is kinda tricky...is the hardest car to drive IMO...


I dont want to bother with stupid questions but Im having a really bad time, I just get this racing wheel and Im having a hard time trying to adapt myself to it, Im coming from using a gamepad(xbox360 controller) but I get an injury in one finger after playing several hours every day.

I used to race with keyboard years ago, later the gamepad was my best tool to do it, I feel like I lost 60%of my skills.

If there is a place to ask existential questions, please let me know...
Im nothing but a desperate racer trying to get back all the skills.


sorry for my bad english.

greetings LFS racer, This question got me recently, well, let me tell you, when I race on simulators I always turn off every driving help, always, even in gt5 when I get the chance, just put the ABS to 0, not 1 as a lot of badass guys.

this question is because I was driving, in real life, taking a downhill that put the brakes to the limit (I use engine braking to avoid the fading brakes) but the last time I took the downhill, something new happened to me:

one of the two front tyres locked while braking, I was very obvious, just one tyre locked, so, Im not sure what is the proper thing to do or not to do in this situation...

I personally tried to stop the locking tyre and depress slighty the braking pedal, it worked but im interested to know if that really cut the braking distance or just make it longer?

I can really tell because to tell this I would need to go back and do it again but locking the tyre and keep it locked while the others 3 tyres still braking without locking...


I have never experienced this in a racing simulator, I dont really get why one tyre just locked, maybe that tyre has less grip than others? not sure


what do you say?
braking and one front tyre locks, keep braking until locking the other front tyre or unlock the locked tyre depressing the brake pedal?

Sorry for my english

Im not sure if this is the same case, but it seems just overspeeding for me, unlocking that tyre would make any difference? btw the driver coudl manage to minimize the damage, I was expecting a worst crash

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm7DhP3QvIA

Last edited by jnr89, Sun, 18 Aug 2013 16:59.

thanks!! It really works!! this FFB thing is a mess if is not with the right settings

Quote from Matrixi :

Why would you want to disable it? That's what cars do in real life and it (force feedback) is the one thing LFS does better than anything else out there.

If you really want to disable it, which I don't recommend, then disable force feedback and simply enable centering spring on your wheel. You'll miss out on learning useful driving skills if you ever get in a pinch with a real life car though.

I would like to get the settings to use this with the 900 degrees but i only have to turn around 90 degrees and in the game the wheel itself gets full locked with more than 90 degrees turns, I am testing with XRG, XFG, XRT.

I drive daily, except sundays, I drive because my job demands me to drive daily about 70km everyday, I dont know what you mean with the forcefeedback but I disabled it and I found it more realistic, even if I dont feel the FFB.

In real life you dont get that crazy behaviour doing less than 100 kmh on the gravel or the grass, and everytime I get sideways, I have to counter by myself or I will end up crashing the front to a tree or something.

greetings, I get a DFGT and Im trying to get used to it...but I have a little problem...

In lfs when I turn or something and I get oversteering, the car just auto correct itselfs, it countersteer in some cases, I would love to disable that, I dont know if this is normal but this reminds me the feature of stabilized keyboard, I used to play with a xbox 360 controller and I never get an unwanted countersteering, I mean, I want to make by myself the countersteering, this is getting me depressive, I hope this is not normal

sorry for my bad english

Quote from Bose321 :

Alienware == DELL

I would avoid any pre-built systems per definition, especially when you already have a lot of good components.

What specs do you have now, since I kinda miss the point since I don't know what you have now.

I had an i7 960 with 12 gb of ram and the GPU was the GTX 470 from Zotac, my system is dead because the gpu or the PSU is like dead.

the PSU was a thermaltake toughpower gold 850w or something like that, Im happy that the 4770k is the mainstream socket, is so powerful compared to the 960, well, I was thinking a whole system would bring me a better warranty than buying each hardware...

Hi, I built a time ago a nice rig but its f*cked up, and because I went with the socket 1366 the parts are now very expensive (it feels like a very expensive pile of crap)...

Im still not sure what the hell is bad with the PC but I know what is good: cpu, and ram, everything else can be damaged or something.

Lets go to the point, I need a new rig, but I didnt know that Intel just released the 4th generation of i7..

I had an eyes over the i7 3770K a time ago but... the 4770k is making me falling in love.

My question is about the socket, I need a mainstream socket, I dont want to see the prices of the MB or the CPUs going to the sky just how happened with my i7 960 and the MOBO related to the 1366.

I get a snap shots related to the topic, because I dont get some stuff.. the intel's website doesnt show any info about the BUS, not sure why? why?

well, and about the GPU I need a good one, I like Nvidia, I would like something in the 300 us$ range price, I mean from 300$ to 350$ or something like that.

I dont like to overclock anything, I need a good system because I have to edit a lot of video and need enough power to record games at the best quality.

please help me with this because this is the only place I know where people really know how this works lol

btw, if I could buy the whole system it would be perfect BUT Im not sure how I can get a nice combo of gpu+cpu with the warranty from DELL for example, is that possible? ALIENWARE is awesome but...what about DELL or..anything else?

please tell me your best feedback about the mobo and everything I should get.

Quote from anbiddulph :

Just a guess but it could be a muffler bypass valve?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1c8HdfEod4k like this?

I think you got it, I haven seen a similar valve in the exhaust of the ferrari 599 (stock) but I used to think that it was used to pass some emission standards